"William Longyard" wrote in
link.net:

Would I sell that on eBay? Only if I didn't mind inviting lawsuits
for the first one that catches on fire. Plastic fires are very nasty,
especially with gasoline nearby.


Won't be a problem if it kills everyone involved. When the plastic starts
burning, it will boil the gas in the little plastic tank inside the cooler.
The ensuing explosion should destroy all the evidence and kill everyone
within several hundred feet from the concussion....eliminating those nasty
lawsuits.

Larry
--
Democracy is when two wolves and a sheep vote on who's for dinner.
Liberty is when the sheep has his own gun.

Remember the original WTC bombing and the differential housing SN?
If enough money is involved, lawyers will find someway to point at someone
to be responsible.
BF

"Larry" wrote in message
...
"William Longyard" wrote in
link.net:

Would I sell that on eBay? Only if I didn't mind inviting lawsuits
for the first one that catches on fire. Plastic fires are very nasty,
especially with gasoline nearby.


Won't be a problem if it kills everyone involved. When the plastic starts
burning, it will boil the gas in the little plastic tank inside the
cooler.
The ensuing explosion should destroy all the evidence and kill everyone
within several hundred feet from the concussion....eliminating those nasty
lawsuits.

Larry
--
Democracy is when two wolves and a sheep vote on who's for dinner.
Liberty is when the sheep has his own gun.

"dene" wrote in news:1169276883.977097.126110
@l53g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

Again....don't hesitate to be critical and/or creative.



Bye bye, little Honda (snif)!

The HOT AIR coming out of the COOLING SYSTEM is heating the INSIDE of the
Coleman cooler and being sucked back INTO the cooling system! That slot
in the top isn't near enough cooling to keep it from destroying the
engine. It's breathing its own hot cooling air!!

NO, no no no NO!....

What you SHOULD have done was cut a hole and put in a piece of internal
ductwork the same size as the WHOLE hot air outlet around the exhaust,
that whole grillework where the hot air comes out around the muffler
inside the gen's case. On the OTHER end of the cooler, you should have
opened a hole to let outside air INTO the cooler, sucked in by the vacuum
the air blowing out the cooling air exhaust causes, which will fill the
cooler with COOL air, NOT its own hot cooling air. The intake should
have a little rain cover pointing down and open all along the bottom.

The slot in the top is totally unnecessary if you use the cooling I
describe, so no "cover" to keep the rain out will be necessary. Drill
some holes in the bottom of the cooler, say 3/4", so any water that
stands in the bottom of the cooler will simply drain out under it.

Air comes in one end....right by the controls and expensive electronic
inverter electronics keeping them COOL. Hot air and exhaust comes out
the OTHER end, forced out of the case by an internal ductwork that
prevents it recirculating inside the cooler and causing the electronics
and engine to overheat.

I have both the EU1000i little 1KW suitcase and the MUCH BETTER designed
EU3000i 3KW genset. The 1KW runs way too fast for longevity, as does
your 2KW. The EU3000i only turns its 6.5hp engine 1200 RPM up to about a
1800 watt load. I ran my stepvan shop off the 1KW for a year and it
started to show signs, hard starting, etc. I stumbled into the EU3000i
in the Honda dealer parking lot. They guy was bringing it back for the
7KW RV model for his 5th wheel camper. Instead of trading it in for
$1200 from the Honda ripoff artists, I got it for $1500 cash with about 8
hours of use in the original box. He'd had it 3 days and it wouldn't
pull his two RV AC units....(c; The EU3000i is mounted on the outside of
the left rear swing door on a couple of really heavy 1000# right angle
brackets, permanently bolted to them. Welded to the outer end of the
brackets are two hinges whos floppy side is welded to a welded steel
framework that supports my unpainted aluminum cover, to keep the 3KW out
of the rain. Two Stanley self-locking gate latches hold the cover to the
door when it's closed, one on each side. Open these latches and the
whole cover swings back away from the generator and down, exposing it
completely for service and fueling. The entire bottom of the "box" is
simply left open. The EU3000i air intake is STUPIDLY located in the
steel channels on the BOTTOM of it so if you lay it on the ground it will
suck up anything into the case and engine. Cooling air for the 3KW
inverter comes in through cooling slots under the control panel. A full-
width slot in the port side of the top has an overhanging rain shield and
is close to the hot air/exhaust outlet on the opposite side from the
control panel. Venturi effect of the air rushing out the genset through
this slot actually pulls a vacuum on the whole case, causing me to have
to clean the road dust out of it quite often as it runs all day all
summer pulling the 2 AC units cooling my stepvan shop/office. Costs
about $8/day at $2.50/gal for 10 hours continuous duty. I fill it every
other day all summer. It holds 3.5 gallons on top of the genny, easily
filled directly from the hose at any gas station by simply flipping down
my aluminum cover.

The inside of the aluminum cover is covered with packing foam to reduce
the already quiet sounds to a whisper. Most noise comes from vibration
transmitted to the door from the mounting brackets. It's a price I pay
to keep the van at 75F, not 105F all summer...not an option in SC.

In winter, I heat the truck with the 1KW little genset INSIDE! I welded
a pipe nipple to that tiny exhaust outlet on the EU1000i muffler. A
right angle flange copper tubing adapter directs the exhaust into a coil
of 1/2" copper tubing that's about a foot in diameter and a foot thick
with the coils pulled apart to form a naturally-aspirated heat exchanger.
The genset's cooling air outlet is pointed forward into the cabin of the
van from just inside the back doors. The copper tubing open end is
routed through a hole in the deck out under the van. By that point, the
exhaust temperature is barely warm, resulting in near 100% heat recovery
from the genset to heat the truck. Guesstimates show around 35000 Btu at
low speed Econo setting. It also powers the shop without having to drive
the air conditioning, of course. There's little electrical load and I
recover near 100% of my fuel investment making the truck toasty warm at
the expense of having to listen to the genset inside the truck. Moving
down the highway, this isn't much of an issue and the truck, itself, is
noisy. I'm sitting almost on top of a 6.2L diesel V-8 under a fiberglass
lid. It's a truck, not an SUV, you know...(c; Coming in out of 25F
freezing rain into a heated truck at 80F, dry and warm is worth the
noise...(c; A 115VAC-operated carbon monoxide alarm, running off the
genset's AC outlet, makes sure there are no leaks gassing the truck
interior when either of these gensets are in operation, especially my
"truck heater".

I recently installed a remote starting kit in the 3KW electric-start
genset. It replaces the manual choke with a solenoid unit like outboard
motors have and remotes the keyswitch up into the shop. I used to reach
up into the bottom of the cover to start it, and damned near got bit by a
Brown Recluse, the world's most poisonous spider, that had built her nest
in there. Their poison continues to eat flesh long after the spider is
squashed. Nasty stuff.

Larry
--
Democracy is when two wolves and a sheep vote on who's for dinner.
Liberty is when the sheep has his own gun.

Larry wrote:
"dene" wrote in news:1169276883.977097.126110
@l53g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

Again....don't hesitate to be critical and/or creative.



Bye bye, little Honda (snif)!

The HOT AIR coming out of the COOLING SYSTEM is heating the INSIDE of the
Coleman cooler and being sucked back INTO the cooling system! That slot
in the top isn't near enough cooling to keep it from destroying the
engine. It's breathing its own hot cooling air!!

NO, no no no NO!....

What you SHOULD have done was cut a hole and put in a piece of internal
ductwork the same size as the WHOLE hot air outlet around the exhaust,
that whole grillework where the hot air comes out around the muffler
inside the gen's case. On the OTHER end of the cooler, you should have
opened a hole to let outside air INTO the cooler, sucked in by the vacuum
the air blowing out the cooling air exhaust causes, which will fill the
cooler with COOL air, NOT its own hot cooling air. The intake should
have a little rain cover pointing down and open all along the bottom.

The slot in the top is totally unnecessary if you use the cooling I
describe, so no "cover" to keep the rain out will be necessary. Drill
some holes in the bottom of the cooler, say 3/4", so any water that
stands in the bottom of the cooler will simply drain out under it.

Just some clarification, Larry. The slot on the top is not for
ventilation. It exists only because the cooler was tall enough.
Ventilation comes from the drilled holes on the side and a 2 1/4 hole
near the power outlets. However, I agree more vents are needed.
Today, when running it, I will keep the top partially open and buy some
louvered vents to install on the side. I'm also thinking about putting
a small fan inside, sincere this is room on the power outlet side for
it. FTR, there is room on all sides of the unit...enough room for my
hand to switch it to on and pull the starter.

-Greg

"dene" wrote in message
ups.com...


Buy yourself a bigger plastic bin to store it in, out of sight and out of
the rain.
Remove the generator from the bin to use it.

Your design is dangerous, will overheat the generator and, by default,
contain any spilled fuel and vapors.

Honda designed it the way they did for many reasons.

Eisboch

Very interesting setup. Here is my home-spun gen setup for my Maxum:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/gen.htm
JR

Larry wrote:

"dene" wrote in news:1169276883.977097.126110
@l53g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:


Again....don't hesitate to be critical and/or creative.




Bye bye, little Honda (snif)!

The HOT AIR coming out of the COOLING SYSTEM is heating the INSIDE of the
Coleman cooler and being sucked back INTO the cooling system! That slot
in the top isn't near enough cooling to keep it from destroying the
engine. It's breathing its own hot cooling air!!

NO, no no no NO!....


--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

The genny is gonna overheat big time in that insulated enclosure.It's
not just the engine and exhaust. The alternator and inverter board also
generate heat when loaded. Suggest 2 4" 12V muffin fans, located 1 at
either end, one blowing in, and the other blowing out, for air flow.
These can be inset in the case, with an eave of fiberglass over them on
the outside to protect from rain. Connect the fans to the 12V sockets on
the genny, so they run when the gen is started. Hard to tell from the
pics, but it looks like you can relieve the inside of the lid more and
close it completely.This would be desirable with the fan setup.
JR

dene wrote:
A couple of months ago, somebody in a boating forum described using a
modified cooler to house a honda 2000 genny. I passed on those posts to
my talented stepson and today we came up with a proto-type, that he may
eventually market for roughly $150 on E-bay. This is the first one with
more improvements envisioned before it goes to market. This cooler is a
Coleman 5 day, 100 qt. we got on sale at Walmart for $35. Only problem
with it is that it's not high enough, forcing us to cut a hole into the
top of the door.

Here are some pictures with comments in the captions. Please share all
opinions.

http://tinyurl.com/2kqwjd

Outlay was as follows....

$35 cooler
$10 ventilation pipe/exhaust
$30 padded cooler cover

Plus an hour or two of labor.

Results....this modified cooler cut down the sound about a third. Most
of the remaining noise comes from the exhaust. Also pertinant, the
gen-box looks good on the back of my upper swim platform and it
provides waterproofing for the genny, which will allow me to use it in
the rain. (We get a little here).

Again....don't hesitate to be critical and/or creative.

Thanks!

-Greg Schoenberg
"She Said Yes"
2002 Regal 2465
Kalama, Washington



--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

JR North wrote:
The genny is gonna overheat big time in that insulated enclosure.It's
not just the engine and exhaust. The alternator and inverter board also
generate heat when loaded. Suggest 2 4" 12V muffin fans, located 1 at
either end, one blowing in, and the other blowing out, for air flow.
These can be inset in the case, with an eave of fiberglass over them on
the outside to protect from rain. Connect the fans to the 12V sockets on
the genny, so they run when the gen is started. Hard to tell from the
pics, but it looks like you can relieve the inside of the lid more and
close it completely.This would be desirable with the fan setup.
JR

Thanks for your advice and also the pictures of your gen-set. Clever!

I intend to buy a couple of muffin fans today and also create more
ventilation holes. I like your idea about creating a larger hole on
top of the lid. That would allow it to close tight once we resolve the
ventiliation issues. The seat cover covers and insulate the top
sufficiently.

-Greg

dene wrote:
A couple of months ago, somebody in a boating forum described using a
modified cooler to house a honda 2000 genny.
-Greg Schoenberg
"She Said Yes"
2002 Regal 2465
Kalama, Washington

HiGeg:
Great idea!
I too agree about the heat problem. But hey, run a test. Stick a
Thermometer in side and start er up. Please post you results this
aternoon.

Ever run into a family named Miller in your town? Most the kids would
be in their 50s by now.
Bob.

Bob wrote:
dene wrote:
A couple of months ago, somebody in a boating forum described using a
modified cooler to house a honda 2000 genny.
-Greg Schoenberg
"She Said Yes"
2002 Regal 2465
Kalama, Washington

HiGeg:
Great idea!
I too agree about the heat problem. But hey, run a test. Stick a
Thermometer in side and start er up. Please post you results this
aternoon.

Ever run into a family named Miller in your town? Most the kids would
be in their 50s by now.
Bob.

Not yet Bob. We just moved to "Mayberry" six months ago. We're slowly
getting to know folks.

I'll bring the thermometer and post the results.

Great feedback....thanks a bunch!

-Greg