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On 09 Oct 2003 00:22:24 GMT,
WestlakeY wrote:
If you don't want or can't pull the wires. Run a snake through than
pull a messenger with foam blocks tied every few feet for the length
of the spar.


The foam blocks work ok, but the *next* guy who wants to run new or
another wire there, has to deal with old, decaying urethane foam bits.
It's a real pain. I used the zip tie method recently, it has it's own
problems, but it doesn't rattle a bit. the pvc conduit is the best way,
as well as the most work. You can also run it up outside the mast if you
are careful wrt routing, but some folks don't care for the cosmetic
issues, and you still have to figure out how to keep the cable(s) snug
to the mast.

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--
Jim Richardson http://www.eskimo.com/~warlock
I have plenty of talent and vision. I just don't give a
damn.

I like Glenn's PVC pipe, but how about smearing it heavily with a
loaded epoxy as you push it in? You don't need a lot of bonding.
(I've never tried this one.)

Rather than use pop rivets to attach PVC pipe, I like using black tie
wraps. You can run them in and out of a pair of 1/4" holes. A shaped
piece of steel will help convince them to bend around the pipe and out
the other hole. Pop rivets are harder and I'm afraid of the wire
chafing on the rivet.

I've also used u shaped bolts dragged into place with a line through
the holes, with help from a fishtape. This is easiest if you cut one
of the legs much longer than the other and pull it through first. Once
you have it in place, cut off the long leg. Use acorn nuts. This is
more satisfactory than either pop rivets or tie wraps on larger boats
where you may have a number of wires.

Even easier the first time is to use the tie wraps through two 1/4"
holes directly on the wires -- installing a pipe is a better long term
solution, though.

If you use foam or blocks, you want to make sure that they drain --
the last thing you want is a mast full of water trapped above the
spreaders.

Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com


Jim Richardson wrote in message ...
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On 09 Oct 2003 00:22:24 GMT,
WestlakeY wrote:
If you don't want or can't pull the wires. Run a snake through than
pull a messenger with foam blocks tied every few feet for the length
of the spar.


The foam blocks work ok, but the *next* guy who wants to run new or
another wire there, has to deal with old, decaying urethane foam bits.
It's a real pain. I used the zip tie method recently, it has it's own
problems, but it doesn't rattle a bit. the pvc conduit is the best way,
as well as the most work. You can also run it up outside the mast if you
are careful wrt routing, but some folks don't care for the cosmetic
issues, and you still have to figure out how to keep the cable(s) snug
to the mast.

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I did see a rather slick way of adding a conduit. The PVC was made up
with openings as needed and set in line with the mast on sawhorses. A
line was reeved through the mast and both ends tied to a big wad of
cloth. The wad would just fit inside the mast with some effort.

The conduit was rotated face up and a generous bead of construction
adheasive was applied over the whole length. The conduit was then
slipped into the mast and once properly located was rotated so that the
adheasive faced the inside mast surface. With the conduit held in place
with C-clamps at the ends the wad of cloth was then pulled back and
forth through the mast to make sure the conduit made good contact.

I don't know how well it held up but it was a slick idea.

Jim Woodward wrote:
I like Glenn's PVC pipe, but how about smearing it heavily with a
loaded epoxy as you push it in? You don't need a lot of bonding.
(I've never tried this one.)

Rather than use pop rivets to attach PVC pipe, I like using black tie
wraps. You can run them in and out of a pair of 1/4" holes. A shaped
piece of steel will help convince them to bend around the pipe and out
the other hole. Pop rivets are harder and I'm afraid of the wire
chafing on the rivet.

I've also used u shaped bolts dragged into place with a line through
the holes, with help from a fishtape. This is easiest if you cut one
of the legs much longer than the other and pull it through first. Once
you have it in place, cut off the long leg. Use acorn nuts. This is
more satisfactory than either pop rivets or tie wraps on larger boats
where you may have a number of wires.

Even easier the first time is to use the tie wraps through two 1/4"
holes directly on the wires -- installing a pipe is a better long term
solution, though.

If you use foam or blocks, you want to make sure that they drain --
the last thing you want is a mast full of water trapped above the
spreaders.

Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com


Jim Richardson wrote in message ...

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On 09 Oct 2003 00:22:24 GMT,
WestlakeY wrote:

If you don't want or can't pull the wires. Run a snake through than
pull a messenger with foam blocks tied every few feet for the length
of the spar.


The foam blocks work ok, but the *next* guy who wants to run new or
another wire there, has to deal with old, decaying urethane foam bits.
It's a real pain. I used the zip tie method recently, it has it's own
problems, but it doesn't rattle a bit. the pvc conduit is the best way,
as well as the most work. You can also run it up outside the mast if you
are careful wrt routing, but some folks don't care for the cosmetic
issues, and you still have to figure out how to keep the cable(s) snug
to the mast.

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--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

My mast has one foot section of PVC conduit every 4 ft or so bonded to the
interior wall with exopy (or some type of goop.

At first I couldn't figure out how they were installed.. Then I noticed that
the mast is in 2 section with a doubler and welded at about 25 ft up the
mast. Perhaps they used a method like Glenn discribes or a PVC pole to push
the conduit sections into position.

BTW, I have seen some mast extrusion that have a 'dove tail' grove (kind of
a internal track) on the inside that would allow a series of clips to be
used to secure the conduit in place.

--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Steve wrote:

BTW, I have seen some mast extrusion that have a 'dove tail' grove (kind of
a internal track) on the inside that would allow a series of clips to be
used to secure the conduit in place.

That is a feature of Sparcraft/Charleston Spar. Actually 3 little tee
shapes on the inside. One on either side in front and one on the luff
track. You slit a piece of PVC conduit on a table saw, slip the kerf
around a tee and push it in. Pretty neat.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com