Jeff wrote:

Is your setup different?

Yes, because of the age of the breakers, I didn't trust them. Changes in
function and wiring over the years had left some of the breakers too large
for the loads. Time, money, and access issues made rebuilding the panel
impractical so I added a fuse block to protect the wiring and relegated the
panel to just switching function with the breakers as last ditch backup.

It's not a bad arrangement, actually. The smallest fuse that won't blow
without reason is best and it's a lot easier to experiment with different
fuse than swap out breaker in a older panel where everything is bolted
together.

So, I'm trying to do something slightly non-standard in that most boats have
either a breaker panel or fuses and hoping someone who has taken a close
look at the Blue Sea panels out of the package will answer.

--
Roger Long

Hi Roger:

A couple things.

Go to the Blue Seas website. Lots of drawings and specs there. Also
give them a call. Very helpful people.

I think after your visit every thing will be clear. A picture and a
1000 words comes to mind.

For me I wanted a branch from the main panel to my nav station (8' x 2
= 16' RT run). I wanted one place near my nav station where I could
have individual fused circuits. I went for the block with the + and -
bus. Very simple once ya get a look at it. I ran my 6 AWG (yes, 40 amp
load) neg and positive wire from the pannel to the BS block. All the
branch ciricuts, VHF, GPS, map light, AM/FM/CD etc are protected with
individual fuses. A very sllick looking insalation. Oh, dont for get to
locate the BS block so yo can have thoes cool drip loops.

Give BS websit a look. Then use the web to order at a tremdous savings
compared to WM.

Bob

Oh, I went with the glass fuses caus BS didnt offer the the new style
then. But I sure like the idea of amp COLOR coding for old eyes. Kinda
a ****er needing a magnafying glass to determine fuse size or if it is
blown........................

In article ,
"Roger Long" wrote:

Yes, because of the age of the breakers, I didn't trust them. Changes in
function and wiring over the years had left some of the breakers too large
for the loads.

Personally, I don't fuse to the load, but to the wire, being
conservative. I also don't like carrying fuses, and more trust the
breakers. Given what I think I'm reading, if you're worried about the
breakers, I'd replace the panel, not add complexity and possible failure
points.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

Jere Lull wrote:

Personally, I don't fuse to the load, but to the wire, being conservative.

Actually, fusing to the load is conservative if it's a smaller fuse than the
wire. I'd do this differently on a new installation but there is a lot of
wiring in the boat I haven't seen yet and I've pulled out some weird
modifications by the PO (like running the big auto pilot motor on 22 ga.
Radio Shack solid core wire without a fuse!).

A good fuse panel is hardly a failure point (unlike the one I first put in).
I'd call having the breakers sized to the wire and the fuses sized to the
load "redundancy". Besides, a fuse panel is a fraction the cost re-doing
the panel and breakers. The breakers do work so I can jumper a fuse in the
unlikely event that I run out without major risk. I just don't want to
trust the old breakers and wiring exclusively.

--
Roger Long