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#1
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Macerator installation
When you say "When, if ever, have you rinsed out the tank"
I am lead to ask two questions: 1) How often do you think this needs to be done? 2) What do you mean by rinsed out? At each pump out, I pump out, then fill the tank with a few gallons of water, then pump out again. If I feel like it, I do that twice. Is that enough, or are you suggesting filling the tank, going for a sail to slosh it up and then pumping out? That's enough most times--and good on ya...'cuz most people don't ever bother to do that much. Only other thing I'd recommend is, a few times a season it should be repeated until what's being pumped out is just clean water. I REALLY do not want to have to open the tank inspection ports, so anything I can do to minimize the possibility I will do! I do not use chemicals in the head. I did, but found that it was a never ending cycle of adding more blue liquid to mask the smell. Instead, I use a powder made for septic systems that grows a bacteria of some sort in the tank. You're on the right track by avoiding chemicals...but septic tank enzymes are cultured for use in anaerobic systems--holding tanks have to be aerobic to prevent odor. If the septic tank enzymes were really working in the tank, you wouldn't have any odor when you pump out. That means the waste in your tank still stinks. Since I started using this powder the head has exhibited almost no smell. That is except when I get a pump out. After a pump out the whole boat just REEKS. I figured out why just recently. I believe that the pump out empties the hose to the head too, and in so doing, opens a direct path to allow the tank vapors to enter the cabin. Only reason I think so is because I can remove the smell by pumping a cupfull of water into the head. All that's doing is providing a water barrier to prevent the odor from the tank from escaping into the boat. Pumping out should not pull air through the head...that's an indication that the tank vent isn't allowing enough air into the tank to replace the waste being pulled out by the pump out. That may be due to a partially blocked vent, or it may be due to a vent line that's too long and has too many bends in it...a vent thru-hull in which the opening is too small (or at least partially blocked), or vent line that has too small a diameter vs. a particularly powerful pumpout. Even so, odor shouldn't be able to escape through the head--the pumpout is PULLING air into it, not pushing it out. That leads me to believe the joker valve in the toilet is worn out...that it no longer closes. Oxygen is the key to eliminating holding tank odor. When waste--or any other organic matter--breaks down aerobically (oxygenated), the gasses produced are odorless...but when it breaks down ANaerobically (without oxygen), it produces foul smelling sulphurous gasses. So the solution to your tank odor is increased ventilation to the tank. Investigate all the things I mentioned above and correct what you can. I'd also recommend that you switch from the stuff you're currently using to a product called Odorlos. It's a Norwegian import, available at most marine stores...the active ingredient is nitrates that promote oxygen release from the waste itself. You can check it out on their website at http://www. odorlos.com Anyway, just wanted to ask my questions. Thanks for all the advice I have read over the years here. You really have helped a lot of folks by sharing your knowledge! Always glad to help. Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html Peggie Hall wrote: WF wrote: I'd be interested in views as to whether a macerator pump should be installed higher than the holding tank. Within the limits set by the macerator mfr, yes...it can be. Background: On my boat, the macerator (Jabsco) is installed on top of the waste tank (about 2 feet high). Although it's supposedly "self-priming", it only functioned if the tank was completely full, and then it would only take out a gallon or two. Ultimately, the impeller self-destructed. That sounds like a blocked tank vent causing the pump to pull a vacuum, not a problem with the macerator location. Or a blockage in the tank discharge line. When, if ever, have you rinsed out the tank to get rid of sludge accumulation on the bottom of it? 'Cuz macerators aren't that powerful..a hoseful of sludge that can't make it through the pump can stop one cold. Armed with a new impeller, I am now considering installing it at the same level as the base of the holding tank. I'd think it would then be more likely to prime, and actually pump. Moving the macerator might extend the life of the impeller a little by cutting the time it takes to prime from 2-3 seconds to 1...but I don't think the current location is the problem. The only down-side I see is that it would be constantly "loaded" with waste (unlike now, where the residual waste presumably drains back down the hose to the tank level). But if the pump seals are good, I figure that's not a problem? That problem can easily be solved--and should be--by putting a y-valve in the tank discharge line instead of only a tee fitting. I say "should be" because macerators never fail when a tank is empty...you need to be able to cut off the flow of waste to the pump to work on it. Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html Am I missing anything? I'd appreciate any views. |
#2
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Macerator installation
Peggie Hall wrote in message ...
I want to thank you for the Ordorlos suggestion from a previous string. It seems to work much better than the "blue stuff". When you mentioned a failed joker valve, my brother-in-law recently had a JV failure mid-cruise (naturally). Not only was it ugly to replace, he and his wife had to "visit" our boat regularly for the last half of our 2-week cruise. Which brings me to two questions: Do you recommend preventive maintenance (Ugh!) on joker valves? And how reliable are Vacuflush systems (more preventive maintenance?) My boat/Vacuflush is 13 years old. |
#3
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Macerator installation
When you mentioned a failed joker valve, my brother-in-law recently had a JV failure mid-cruise (naturally). Not only was it ugly to replace, he and his wife had to "visit" our boat regularly for the last half of our 2-week cruise. Replacing a joker valve is one of the easiest jobs, Bob...you don't even have to remove any hoses...just the two bolts that hold the discharge fitting on the base. Nor should a joker valve failure prevent the head from being used...If it WAS a nasty job and/or they couldn't use the toilet, replacing the joker valve didn't cure the real problem...it just hid it. Which brings me to two questions: Do you recommend preventive maintenance (Ugh!) on joker valves? What's to maintain? A joker valve is just a rubber "cup" with a slit in it and "lips"--a one-way valve. Over time, waste going through the slit stretches it to the point where the slit is no longer a slit, it's a hole...and useless any longer as a one-way valve. Then you replace it. That's it. I'd flush a lot of clean water through it first, though. And how reliable are Vacuflush systems (more preventive maintenance?) My boat/Vacuflush is 13 years old. VacuFlush toilets are very reliable and require no preventive maintenance...they're fine toilets (they just cost FAR more than ANY marine toilet is worth). When it develops a symptom--pump starts cycling for no reason between flushes, or won't shut off, or the water valve leaks--fix it. If you don't have an owners manual for it, call SeaLand and get one (800-321-9886)...'cuz every symptom, probable causes and cures that it can develop is covered in it. The VacuFlush hasn't changed enough to notice in the last 20 years, so just ask for the current manual. And keep it on the boat so you can refer to it if/when it does develop a symptom...'cuz blind seat-of-the-pants trouble shooting can cause additional problems instead of solving the one you have. I had VacuFlush toilets on two of my own boats, btw, and we were dealers for nearly 10 years...so I'm intimately acquainted with it. Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
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