Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Thanks Richard - After posting here, I found you site and repeated the
question there, but in more detail. Low voltage is unlikely because batteries were freshly charged - could be a bad connection somewhere - I will check. High/Low voltage is possible if an input range of say 110-120v does not result in 24V within the cutin/out range. Fan circuit overload is possible - I added some insulation above unit - maybe something dropped into fan - I will try vacuuming. I will also try disconnecting the fan. I will also try and get an ammeter installed - I don't like the idea of adding more connections though - Maybe I can get a clamp on type. Funny thing though, once unit does start, it keeps running, so you would not think there could be an overload. I will post this reply to your site too and perhaps we can move discussion there? GBM wrote in message oups.com... GBM, Low voltage is the most common cause of start up problems. Low voltage can be traced to low battery voltage or the boat's electrical circuit. The only way to insure that it is not a voltage problem is to connect a full charged battery directly to the electrical module with proper sized correct polarity jumper cables. The older model BD2.5 and BD3 compressors can indicate a low voltage fault with a LED if one is installed between module terminals C and D. Newer compressors BD35 and BD50 have a full function computer chip like your automobile. You can learn more about LED trouble shooting by viewing the slide show on my web site at http://www.kollmann-marine.com. There are several sections on all these compressors also in my 12/24 Volt Refrigeration Manual. The fan circuit overload will stop the compressor if the fan is faulty. There is a separate set of 12 volt + and - terminals on the module that powers the fan even it compressor is running on 24 volts, for cooling when the thermostat closes. This fan circuit on older units is limited to a maximum of one amp and ½ amp on BD35 and BD50 compressor modules. To eliminate this circuit as a cause for a false compressor start, disconnect the fan wires and any other units connected to these terminals. When eliminating the fan make sure that the thermostat wire is not removed from C terminal on the older models. High amperage overload: The first thing to check is to see that there is adequate air flow through the condenser coil, see if the fan is running or could dust be blocking the coils. To test for overload connect a 10 amp scale ammeter in series with the power wire to the module and watch the start up and running amps. If the start amps exceed 9 amps or the running amps are above 7 amps, when operated on 12 volts, there is an overload. An amperage overload indicates the compressor is faulty or if recently serviced with refrigerant there is a refrigerant problem. The module is more likely to fail than the Compressor but WARNING, do not install a new module on a compressor that test bad with the ohm meter. |
#2
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
GBM wrote:
Thanks Richard - After posting here, I found you site and repeated the question there, but in more detail. Low voltage is unlikely because batteries were freshly charged - could be a bad connection somewhere - I will check. High/Low voltage is possible if an input range of say 110-120v does not result in 24V within the cutin/out range. Fan circuit overload is possible - I added some insulation above unit - maybe something dropped into fan - I will try vacuuming. I will also try disconnecting the fan. I will also try and get an ammeter installed - I don't like the idea of adding more connections though - Maybe I can get a clamp on type. Funny thing though, once unit does start, it keeps running, so you would not think there could be an overload. I will post this reply to your site too and perhaps we can move discussion there? GBM My site and mail is off for a couple of hours on Sundays so I will answer your questions here. 1. If you disconnect shore power from boat the question of high voltage will be eliminated. The BD35 Module can except voltages up to 29 volts before it shuts down compressor. 2. I have no information on Mobiletronics's inverter or how it is wired to the Danfoss module. If one of the safety perimeters of module is being violated there will be a single audible beep coming from module. Is there a beep sound when unit is turned on and unit does no run? Does fan run even if unit does not run? 3. Terminal P on module is only used if low voltage cutout is to be increased so if there is a wire on P terminal remove it and tape the lose end. 4. The only wire to be connected to Module terminal D is a ground wire from troubleshooting LED and that ground is only activated when a module parameter is exceeded. One flash of LED indicates low voltage, Two flashes a fan problem and so on. Low voltage on start may not be detectable with a meter unless you have Superman's eyes. Any resistance connection in wiring anywhere between module and battery will signal module to abort when current starts to flow, that why I recommend by passing all wiring. |
#3
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Correction to my first post the LED on older compressors is connected
to terminals C and D but on BD35 and BD50 compressors it is connected to the small + terminal and the D terminal. |
#4
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
![]() wrote Thanks for the reply Richard. 1. If you disconnect shore power from boat the question of high voltage will be eliminated. The BD35 Module can except voltages up to 29 volts before it shuts down compressor. Yes - If battery charger is the cause this will help. Unit should run OK on Mobitronic unit and has in past - But I need to do some detailed testing. 2. I have no information on Mobiletronics's inverter or how it is wired to the Danfoss module. FYI - The Waeco Mobitronic rectifier accepts 110V and puts out 24V nominal. When AC is present, a solenoid acitivates which switches off DC battery power. The DC power from the battery runs to this unit and then on to the refrig unit Here are some links - I suppose it is possible that this unit has a fault, because even DC from battery goes through it's internal switch. http://makeashorterlink.com/?T1782437D http://www.waeco.biz/tmp/MPS-35_B_d_gb_04.pdf If one of the safety perimeters of module is being violated there will be a single audible beep coming from module. Is there a beep sound when unit is turned on and unit does no run? Does fan run even if unit does not run? I have not heard a beep and fan does not run. Unit just seems to go into hibernation, but then it eventually wakes up after temperature in box has risen 10F or more. I see your site is back on - I will post later after I go down to boat. GBM |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|