I have pulled everything out. Taking a look at how I store whatever and
where.

For fun, what do you ( cruising sailboat sailors ) and where do you store
your equipment.

As in ::: what goes in the lazaret? what goes in port locker? starboard
locker? what goes under the ??? and what goes over the ?????

Good question!
I am doing the same. One thing that helped out for me on my last boat was to
paint all the lockers white high gloss enamle. This added a lot of light to
those deep lockers and made it easeir to find things. Now I have huge
lockers, starboard locker I can stand in and just see into the cockpit. So I
am painting everthing white again and devising shelving and hangers etc. But
what should go where?
- Allen

"Thomas Wentworth" wrote in message
news7Bhg.3656$F%3.1460@trndny07...
I have pulled everything out. Taking a look at how I store whatever and
where.

For fun, what do you ( cruising sailboat sailors ) and where do you store
your equipment.

As in ::: what goes in the lazaret? what goes in port locker? starboard
locker? what goes under the ??? and what goes over the ?????

"bushman" wrote in
:

Good question!
I am doing the same. One thing that helped out for me on my last boat
was to paint all the lockers white high gloss enamle. This added a lot
of light to those deep lockers and made it easeir to find things. Now
I have huge lockers, starboard locker I can stand in and just see into
the cockpit. So I am painting everthing white again and devising
shelving and hangers etc. But what should go where?
- Allen



Man, I'm stayin' away from you guys! Last time Cap'n Geoffrey hauled it
all out on the dock we decided to haul half a ton of it to the parking lot!

I think it collects "stuff" by itself when noone boards it for 8 hours. We
didn't haul all that stuff to the boat, did we?....(c;

Why does a boat need FOUR hammers, anyway?

Stowage principles (from the operating manual of my cruiser)

Rule 1: Keep the ends of the boat (bow, stern and masthead) light.

The formula by which pitching moment of inertia is calculated is:

Pitching moment of inertia = mass x (distance from CG)^2

Moving a mass equal to just 1% of the displacement of the boat (ie 60
kg) from midships to the bow or the stern would increase the total
resistance due to heave and pitch by about 1600%. This is especially
important when beating to windward.

Rule 2 (a repeat of Rule 1, because it is important and yet easily
ignored): Keep heavy objects as close as practicable to the centre of
gravity.

Sailing yachts are fastest when the mass is concentrated in the middle
of the boat. The more mass in the ends, the more the boat tends to bury
in one wave and lift high over the next, slowing her down.

Halving the distance between any heavy object and the centre of gravity
reduces the contribution of that object to the pitching moment of
inertia by one-quarter.

Rule 3: Keep heavy objects low and inboard.

Mass higher than the ballast reduces the righting arm provided by the
ballast to the extent of the product of that mass multiplied by its
height above the ballast. Mass outboard of the centreline similarly
reduces the righting arm provided by the ballast, depending on the
tack.

Heavy stores should be in the lockers below the settee and the sea
berth.

Rule 4: Do not allow the loaded waterline to be raised above the design
waterline by more than 1% of the LWL.

Rule 5: Stow as if the boat will roll 180°.

All loose objects have to be stowed in a locker. All lockers must have
positive latches. Nothing should be stowed on the cabin sole, the chart
table, workbench, or counter tops.

Rule 6: Stow to maintain longitudinal (fore-aft) and athwartships trim.


Avoid stowage that lists the boat to port or starboard. Avoid stowage
that makes the boat trim bow down or stern down. A bow-down boat has a
tiny advantage over a boat trimmed on her waterline on an upwind
passage. Similarly, a stern-down boat has a tiny advantage on a
downwind passage. Trimming bow down or stern down by exactly the right
amount is elusive however, so the better option is to aim to trim the
boat on her waterline.

Rule 7: Stow for accessibility and with logic.

Often used items have to be stowed for easy retrieval. A few commonly
used tools - screwdriver, pliers, shackle key, knife - have to be
accessible without unpacking the tool bin. Food stowage has to allow
meal preparation with minimum preparation. The medical kit and other
emergency items have to be stowed so they can be accessed quickly.

Put similar items together. Put items close to where they will be used.

Rule 8: Avoid stowage that obstructs critical equipment and controls,
including seacocks and diverter valves. Do not allow electronic
appliances (eg mobile phones) to be used or ferrous objects to be
stowed near the steering compass or either of the two fixed electronic
compass units.

Rule 9: Budget time to reposition items (over-stowage), locate lost
items, and put away items at the end of tasks.

The International Space Station standard is to accept that each crew
member spends 45 minutes on over-stowing each day. Measures to minimise
over-stowage are good, but eliminating it completely may not be
possible. Returning tools and stores to their assigned location - and
so making them accessible - is always possible.

Rule 10: Document stowage, maintain a location coding system, and allow
for occasional non-standard stowage. Maintain an inventory to prevent
oversupply of unnecessary items and undersupply of necessary ones.

Rule 11: Stow for compactness and silence. Use tea towels to keep
galley gear (crockery, pots) from moving and clattering.

Rule 12: Protect sleeping berths from stowage.

Probably a little more than I was looking for but very insightful. I will
print a copy of this email.. give me a "go by".


=======
wrote in message
oups.com...
Stowage principles (from the operating manual of my cruiser)

Rule 1: Keep the ends of the boat (bow, stern and masthead) light.

The formula by which pitching moment of inertia is calculated is:

Pitching moment of inertia = mass x (distance from CG)^2

Moving a mass equal to just 1% of the displacement of the boat (ie 60
kg) from midships to the bow or the stern would increase the total
resistance due to heave and pitch by about 1600%. This is especially
important when beating to windward.

Rule 2 (a repeat of Rule 1, because it is important and yet easily
ignored): Keep heavy objects as close as practicable to the centre of
gravity.

Sailing yachts are fastest when the mass is concentrated in the middle
of the boat. The more mass in the ends, the more the boat tends to bury
in one wave and lift high over the next, slowing her down.

Halving the distance between any heavy object and the centre of gravity
reduces the contribution of that object to the pitching moment of
inertia by one-quarter.

Rule 3: Keep heavy objects low and inboard.

Mass higher than the ballast reduces the righting arm provided by the
ballast to the extent of the product of that mass multiplied by its
height above the ballast. Mass outboard of the centreline similarly
reduces the righting arm provided by the ballast, depending on the
tack.

Heavy stores should be in the lockers below the settee and the sea
berth.

Rule 4: Do not allow the loaded waterline to be raised above the design
waterline by more than 1% of the LWL.

Rule 5: Stow as if the boat will roll 180°.

All loose objects have to be stowed in a locker. All lockers must have
positive latches. Nothing should be stowed on the cabin sole, the chart
table, workbench, or counter tops.

Rule 6: Stow to maintain longitudinal (fore-aft) and athwartships trim.


Avoid stowage that lists the boat to port or starboard. Avoid stowage
that makes the boat trim bow down or stern down. A bow-down boat has a
tiny advantage over a boat trimmed on her waterline on an upwind
passage. Similarly, a stern-down boat has a tiny advantage on a
downwind passage. Trimming bow down or stern down by exactly the right
amount is elusive however, so the better option is to aim to trim the
boat on her waterline.

Rule 7: Stow for accessibility and with logic.

Often used items have to be stowed for easy retrieval. A few commonly
used tools - screwdriver, pliers, shackle key, knife - have to be
accessible without unpacking the tool bin. Food stowage has to allow
meal preparation with minimum preparation. The medical kit and other
emergency items have to be stowed so they can be accessed quickly.

Put similar items together. Put items close to where they will be used.

Rule 8: Avoid stowage that obstructs critical equipment and controls,
including seacocks and diverter valves. Do not allow electronic
appliances (eg mobile phones) to be used or ferrous objects to be
stowed near the steering compass or either of the two fixed electronic
compass units.

Rule 9: Budget time to reposition items (over-stowage), locate lost
items, and put away items at the end of tasks.

The International Space Station standard is to accept that each crew
member spends 45 minutes on over-stowing each day. Measures to minimise
over-stowage are good, but eliminating it completely may not be
possible. Returning tools and stores to their assigned location - and
so making them accessible - is always possible.

Rule 10: Document stowage, maintain a location coding system, and allow
for occasional non-standard stowage. Maintain an inventory to prevent
oversupply of unnecessary items and undersupply of necessary ones.

Rule 11: Stow for compactness and silence. Use tea towels to keep
galley gear (crockery, pots) from moving and clattering.

Rule 12: Protect sleeping berths from stowage.

Thomas Wentworth wrote:
Probably a little more than I was looking for but very insightful. I
will print a copy of this email.. give me a "go by".


=======
wrote in message
oups.com...
Stowage principles (from the operating manual of my cruiser)

Rule 1: Keep the ends of the boat (bow, stern and masthead) light.

The formula by which pitching moment of inertia is calculated is:

Pitching moment of inertia = mass x (distance from CG)^2

Moving a mass equal to just 1% of the displacement of the boat (ie 60
kg) from midships to the bow or the stern would increase the total
resistance due to heave and pitch by about 1600%. This is especially
important when beating to windward.

Rule 2 (a repeat of Rule 1, because it is important and yet easily
ignored): Keep heavy objects as close as practicable to the centre of
gravity.

Sailing yachts are fastest when the mass is concentrated in the middle
of the boat. The more mass in the ends, the more the boat tends to
bury in one wave and lift high over the next, slowing her down.

Halving the distance between any heavy object and the centre of
gravity reduces the contribution of that object to the pitching
moment of
inertia by one-quarter.

Rule 3: Keep heavy objects low and inboard.

Mass higher than the ballast reduces the righting arm provided by the
ballast to the extent of the product of that mass multiplied by its
height above the ballast. Mass outboard of the centreline similarly
reduces the righting arm provided by the ballast, depending on the
tack.

Heavy stores should be in the lockers below the settee and the sea
berth.

Rule 4: Do not allow the loaded waterline to be raised above the
design waterline by more than 1% of the LWL.

Rule 5: Stow as if the boat will roll 180°.

All loose objects have to be stowed in a locker. All lockers must have
positive latches. Nothing should be stowed on the cabin sole, the
chart table, workbench, or counter tops.

Rule 6: Stow to maintain longitudinal (fore-aft) and athwartships
trim.


Avoid stowage that lists the boat to port or starboard. Avoid stowage
that makes the boat trim bow down or stern down. A bow-down boat has a
tiny advantage over a boat trimmed on her waterline on an upwind
passage. Similarly, a stern-down boat has a tiny advantage on a
downwind passage. Trimming bow down or stern down by exactly the right
amount is elusive however, so the better option is to aim to trim the
boat on her waterline.

Rule 7: Stow for accessibility and with logic.

Often used items have to be stowed for easy retrieval. A few commonly
used tools - screwdriver, pliers, shackle key, knife - have to be
accessible without unpacking the tool bin. Food stowage has to allow
meal preparation with minimum preparation. The medical kit and other
emergency items have to be stowed so they can be accessed quickly.

Put similar items together. Put items close to where they will be
used.

Rule 8: Avoid stowage that obstructs critical equipment and controls,
including seacocks and diverter valves. Do not allow electronic
appliances (eg mobile phones) to be used or ferrous objects to be
stowed near the steering compass or either of the two fixed electronic
compass units.

Rule 9: Budget time to reposition items (over-stowage), locate lost
items, and put away items at the end of tasks.

The International Space Station standard is to accept that each crew
member spends 45 minutes on over-stowing each day. Measures to
minimise over-stowage are good, but eliminating it completely may not
be
possible. Returning tools and stores to their assigned location - and
so making them accessible - is always possible.

Rule 10: Document stowage, maintain a location coding system, and
allow for occasional non-standard stowage. Maintain an inventory to
prevent oversupply of unnecessary items and undersupply of necessary
ones.

Rule 11: Stow for compactness and silence. Use tea towels to keep
galley gear (crockery, pots) from moving and clattering.

Rule 12: Protect sleeping berths from stowage.

I have a friend who did the Azores-and-back singlehanded race a few years
ago. He decided to keep the heavy liferaft down below, "to keep the weight
out of the ends". About halfway across the Pond, a huge whale surfaced right
beside him. To this day he does not remember how that liferaft arrived in
the cockpit in 10 seconds, but it did!

Keep your safety equipment to hand, regardless, and sod the pitching!

Dennis.

Thomas Wentworth wrote:
I have pulled everything out. Taking a look at how I store whatever and
where.

For fun, what do you ( cruising sailboat sailors ) and where do you store
your equipment.

As in ::: what goes in the lazaret? what goes in port locker? starboard
locker? what goes under the ??? and what goes over the ?????

this isn't exactly an answer to your question, but it's related. one
thing my step-father does that i used to think was a little over the
top is that he catalogs basically everything. though overkill in a
house, in my opinion, i have started to do this with some things and
i've found it extremely helpful. it's so nice to just be able to look
and see what you have on paper and know where it's stored. on a boat i
would think this would be extremely useful, to keep some kind of
informal or even formal database of pretty much everything that is on
the boat and where it is. especially useful when it's time to go
shopping to replace things you've used.

another thought that comes to mind because i've been focused on it a
lot lately is simply buying containers for things. how often does
stuff just sit around in the plastic bag you walked out of the store
with, or how often have you kept some dumb cardboard box that some
piece of electronics came in, etc. just taking all the dvd's out of
their plastic containers and putting them all into one hard case
container made to hold them saved me quite a few cubic feet of space,
now what used to be piles of dvd's all fit in two little metal cases.
who really reads those little fold out papers in a dvd case anyway, and
do you really watch the "bonus material" they insist on sending along
with the movie ?

of very high value for me is keeping all the software i install on a
computer in one spot, usually in a notebook. that goes for radio
equipment too, all those little user manuals you are going to someday
need but don't want laying around, it all goes into a notebook. that's
stuff that i would normally toss down on a table somewhere and
eventually lose. i find that very helpful for obvious reasons, but
it's also useful for not so obvious reasons ... when that special
antenna gets busted and you're left trying to remember where you bought
it so you can replace it, it's nice to have a receipt showing where it
came from.

in short, when i buy things now i am, more and more, really trying to
think in advance how i'm going to store it, how i'm going to remember i
even bought it, where to put it to have it handy, etc. it's all new to
me, i have piles of cardboard boxes in storage buildings that i don't
even know what's in them anymore lol.

purple_stars wrote:


this isn't exactly an answer to your question, but it's related. one
thing my step-father does that i used to think was a little over the
top is that he catalogs basically everything. though overkill in a
house, in my opinion, i have started to do this with some things and
i've found it extremely helpful. it's so nice to just be able to look
and see what you have on paper and know where it's stored. on a boat i
would think this would be extremely useful, to keep some kind of
informal or even formal database of pretty much everything that is on
the boat and where it is. especially useful when it's time to go
shopping to replace things you've used.

snip...

Good idea. Two years ago I was ready to launch my sailboat on it's
maiden voyage. I trailered it to a lake only to find I had left the
fuel hose with primer bulb back home..and the wind and waves were up
enough that I wouldn't launch without the outboard.

At home...how many times have you scrambled to find warranty documents
when some 'Made in China' appliance acted up?
I've been thinking about getting a 'lateral file cabinet' for my
smallest bedroom to house all documents in an organized manner.

purple_stars wrote:
another thought that comes to mind because i've been focused on it a
lot lately is simply buying containers for things....

I think there were two really important points listed in this thread:
containers and inventories.

The first point, which I've come to call my "Container Theory of Life
Possessions" is simple: don't own something unless you can first
purchase the appropriate container for it.

In my life I've noticed that I tended to buy things, say a really cool
bicycle, but would just stick it in my garage. Eventually something
would fall on it, or it would get dirty or damaged from something else
it came in contact with. The item would invariably become damaged,
unusable or lost long before its expected lifetime - and I had to
replace items more often, thereby spending more money than was really
necessary.

What I realized was that buying the item (in this case the bike) was not
enough. What I needed was an appropriate container for it. For this
item it happened to be a protective case that the bike could be placed
inside, which would keep it out of harms way and reduce rusting and
corrosion from the elements.

I think you can extend this philosophy to almost anything. Don't have a
car unless you have a garage and/or a car cover. Make sure everything
you own has a protective case, that the case is kept in a consistent
location and when not in use, the item is returned to it.

The second point is that everything you own should be inventoried,
photographed and recorded in an easy to use database. Create a map of
you space, assign labels to each area and then record the storage
location of every item you own. When you need to find something, being
able to go to the database and look up its location can save hours.
Also, if there is more than one person involved, any changes of location
and/or status of item can be noted, and immediately discovered by the
next person.

By doing this I found that I spent less money replacing items that I
couldn't find (only to discover them later) and items that had a self
life tended to be used up before expiring.

These two approaches have greatly improved my life aboard boats. Hope
this helps.

Cheers,

Robb

"AMPowers" wrote in message
...
purple_stars wrote:
another thought that comes to mind because i've been
focused on it a
lot lately is simply buying containers for things....

I think there were two really important points listed in
this thread:
containers and inventories.

The first point, which I've come to call my "Container
Theory of Life
Possessions" is simple: don't own something unless you can
first
purchase the appropriate container for it.

In my life I've noticed that I tended to buy things, say a
really cool
bicycle, but would just stick it in my garage. Eventually
something
would fall on it, or it would get dirty or damaged from
something else
it came in contact with. The item would invariably become
damaged,
unusable or lost long before its expected lifetime - and I
had to
replace items more often, thereby spending more money than
was really
necessary.

What I realized was that buying the item (in this case the
bike) was not
enough. What I needed was an appropriate container for
it. For this
item it happened to be a protective case that the bike
could be placed
inside, which would keep it out of harms way and reduce
rusting and
corrosion from the elements.


Your bike got damaged in your garage? And now you keep it
in a protective case? What do you do if you, God forbid,
want to ride it?



I think you can extend this philosophy to almost anything.
Don't have a
car unless you have a garage and/or a car cover. Make
sure everything
you own has a protective case, that the case is kept in a
consistent
location and when not in use, the item is returned to it.

The second point is that everything you own should be
inventoried,
photographed and recorded in an easy to use database.
Create a map of
you space, assign labels to each area and then record the
storage
location of every item you own. When you need to find
something, being
able to go to the database and look up its location can
save hours.
Also, if there is more than one person involved, any
changes of location
and/or status of item can be noted, and immediately
discovered by the
next person.


Are you familiar with the phrase ''Anal retentive''?

SV