Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Glenn Ashmore wrote:
A few observations: First I noticed a number of other patterns on the beach including a Spade but no test results for them. Second, beach sand reacts very different from ocean bottom. And most important, the test were done with effectively infinite scope. Zero angle between the rode and the beach. This works against fixed shank patterns like the claw and the plow because it holds the shank down keeping it from righting. Setting on a normal 4 or 5 to 1 scope the rode is angled upward which lifts the shank and helps right the anchor. When set on a 4:1 scope the claw type will set easier than almost any other pattern which accounts for its popularity. It just doesn't have the holding power. The Rocna does have good holding power and is relatively inexpensive but the big hoop just compensates for poor balance. Mic 67 Glenn, we did not include in our video the Spade, nor the Delta, SARCA, Buegel, and a few others, mostly for reasons of time. That video is already nearly 10 mins long, and we wanted to keep our message simple: old types bad, new types good. The most popular types are plows and claws so that is what we target. Your comments about scope are just plain wrong. This is important. No anchor is designed to work with a particular scope; on the contrary, all anchors work better the more scope you have. The ideal is horizontal, hence the use of chain or kellets to attain an angle lower than that of a straight line between the anchor and the boat. We therefore use a horizontal angle in any testing to provide a level playing field; otherwise those boaters more experienced would object to a particular scope being used, as it may favor (or hurt) a particular anchor. The shank, articulated or not, has nothing to do with scope affecting how the anchor sets. The Delta, Spade, and Rocna, all depend on what's called three- point geometry for their setting; i.e. they lie on their sides initially then screw into the substrate. The "big hoop" does not compensate for "poor balance"; rather the roll-bar ensures the anchor rights itself, without relying on a dedicated weight in the tip, an inefficiency common amongst other designs. |
#2
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "craigsmith" u22396@uwe wrote Your comments about scope are just plain wrong. This is important. No anchor is designed to work with a particular scope; on the contrary, all anchors work better the more scope you have. The ideal is horizontal, hence the use of chain or kellets to attain an angle lower than that of a straight line between the anchor and the boat. We therefore use a horizontal angle in any testing to provide a level playing field; otherwise those boaters more experienced would object to a particular scope being used, as it may favor (or hurt) a particular anchor. I stand by my statement about the rode. I spent 3 days doing in the water tests in the BVI/USVI last year with several Bruce and plow patterns to see how they stacked up with the Spade. Tests were conducted in the coral sand bottom at Deadman's Bay, Peter Island, eel grass over sand at Setting Point, Anegada, heavy marl in Coral Bay, St. John and soupy mud in Great Cruz Bay. Rode was 3/8 HT. Using weighted pool noodles to mark the drop and set points and steel tapes we recorded the setting distance among other things at various scopes. As the scope was increased past about 4:1 the setting distance increased significantly on almost every pattern. Most would not begin to set until the shank was lifted off the bottom. On the other hand, once set, holding power increased with increasing scope leveling out just past 7:1 in all bottoms on most patterns with slightly more rode required in the soupy mud. I have plenty of stills of the results but no movies. Going down again Wednesday with my camcorder but not hauling 3 anchors like last time. We have 2 boats with 3 different patterns and I may try to bum a couple more from the charter company. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
#3
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Glenn said:
I stand by my statement about the rode. I spent 3 days doing in the water tests in the BVI/USVI last year with several Bruce and plow patterns to see how they stacked up with the Spade. Tests were conducted in the coral sand bottom at Deadman's Bay, Peter Island, eel grass over sand at Setting Point, Anegada, heavy marl in Coral Bay, St. John and soupy mud in Great Cruz Bay. Rode was 3/8 HT. Using weighted pool noodles to mark the drop and set points and steel tapes we recorded the setting distance among other things at various scopes. As the scope was increased past about 4:1 the setting distance increased significantly on almost every pattern. Most would not begin to set until the shank was lifted off the bottom. On the other hand, once set, holding power increased with increasing scope leveling out just past 7:1 in all bottoms on most patterns with slightly more rode required in the soupy mud. That's why my anchoring modus is to lower the anchor in a controlled fashion to the bottom, let out a little scope to let it drag to proper position, and then let out 3-1 (faster than the boat moves, but not to pile the chain on top of the anchor) and stop. Nearly all the time, the boat will drift back, and, the anchor set. If not, nearly always (otherwise), it will shortly set, as seen by the chain going taut. I just tripped on that by doing it, not by reading the reports; it seems to work... Then I let out my anticipated scope, usually 5 to 7:1, in a bunch (faster than the boat moves). That causes the boat to veer off and blow down. As the chain starts to tigthen, it pulls the bow back around, and, again, I look for the jerk (not the one standing over the windlass button). If it comes up short and hard, I assume it's reasonably set, back down to be sure, and then attach the snubber and let out the required extra to allow the chain to hang straight down... YMMV as to your method, but it's pretty painless and doesn't involve backing down until it's reasonably sure to be set. L8R Skip Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC http://tinyurl.com/p7rb4 - NOTE:new URL! The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her "And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated by your friends."- James S. Pitkin |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Upcoming article about a new boat | General | |||
Interesting boat ride on a 26 Twin Vee | General | |||
Need a Plan to Protect Boat from UV and Mildew All Year Round - 2 | General | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General | |||
Old Tyme Boat Brochure Photos, Amusing attire | General |