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craigsmith
 
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Default Demonstration footage of boat anchors

Glenn Ashmore wrote:
A few observations:

First I noticed a number of other patterns on the beach including a Spade
but no test results for them.
Second, beach sand reacts very different from ocean bottom. And most
important, the test were done with effectively infinite scope. Zero angle
between the rode and the beach. This works against fixed shank patterns
like the claw and the plow because it holds the shank down keeping it from
righting. Setting on a normal 4 or 5 to 1 scope the rode is angled upward
which lifts the shank and helps right the anchor. When set on a 4:1 scope
the claw type will set easier than almost any other pattern which accounts
for its popularity. It just doesn't have the holding power.

The Rocna does have good holding power and is relatively inexpensive but the
big hoop just compensates for poor balance.

Mic 67


Glenn, we did not include in our video the Spade, nor the Delta, SARCA,
Buegel, and a few others, mostly for reasons of time. That video is already
nearly 10 mins long, and we wanted to keep our message simple: old types bad,
new types good. The most popular types are plows and claws so that is what we
target.

Your comments about scope are just plain wrong. This is important. No anchor
is designed to work with a particular scope; on the contrary, all anchors
work better the more scope you have. The ideal is horizontal, hence the use
of chain or kellets to attain an angle lower than that of a straight line
between the anchor and the boat. We therefore use a horizontal angle in any
testing to provide a level playing field; otherwise those boaters more
experienced would object to a particular scope being used, as it may favor
(or hurt) a particular anchor.

The shank, articulated or not, has nothing to do with scope affecting how the
anchor sets. The Delta, Spade, and Rocna, all depend on what's called three-
point geometry for their setting; i.e. they lie on their sides initially then
screw into the substrate.

The "big hoop" does not compensate for "poor balance"; rather the roll-bar
ensures the anchor rights itself, without relying on a dedicated weight in
the tip, an inefficiency common amongst other designs.
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Glenn Ashmore
 
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Default Demonstration footage of boat anchors


"craigsmith" u22396@uwe wrote

Your comments about scope are just plain wrong. This is important. No
anchor
is designed to work with a particular scope; on the contrary, all anchors
work better the more scope you have. The ideal is horizontal, hence the
use
of chain or kellets to attain an angle lower than that of a straight line
between the anchor and the boat. We therefore use a horizontal angle in
any
testing to provide a level playing field; otherwise those boaters more
experienced would object to a particular scope being used, as it may favor
(or hurt) a particular anchor.


I stand by my statement about the rode. I spent 3 days doing in the water
tests in the BVI/USVI last year with several Bruce and plow patterns to see
how they stacked up with the Spade. Tests were conducted in the coral sand
bottom at Deadman's Bay, Peter Island, eel grass over sand at Setting Point,
Anegada, heavy marl in Coral Bay, St. John and soupy mud in Great Cruz Bay.
Rode was 3/8 HT. Using weighted pool noodles to mark the drop and set
points and steel tapes we recorded the setting distance among other things
at various scopes. As the scope was increased past about 4:1 the setting
distance increased significantly on almost every pattern. Most would not
begin to set until the shank was lifted off the bottom. On the other hand,
once set, holding power increased with increasing scope leveling out just
past 7:1 in all bottoms on most patterns with slightly more rode required in
the soupy mud.

I have plenty of stills of the results but no movies.

Going down again Wednesday with my camcorder but not hauling 3 anchors like
last time. We have 2 boats with 3 different patterns and I may try to bum a
couple more from the charter company.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com


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Skip Gundlach
 
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Default Demonstration footage of boat anchors

Glenn said:

I stand by my statement about the rode. I spent 3 days doing in the
water
tests in the BVI/USVI last year with several Bruce and plow patterns to
see
how they stacked up with the Spade. Tests were conducted in the coral
sand
bottom at Deadman's Bay, Peter Island, eel grass over sand at Setting
Point,
Anegada, heavy marl in Coral Bay, St. John and soupy mud in Great Cruz
Bay.
Rode was 3/8 HT. Using weighted pool noodles to mark the drop and set
points and steel tapes we recorded the setting distance among other
things
at various scopes. As the scope was increased past about 4:1 the
setting
distance increased significantly on almost every pattern. Most would
not
begin to set until the shank was lifted off the bottom. On the other
hand,
once set, holding power increased with increasing scope leveling out
just
past 7:1 in all bottoms on most patterns with slightly more rode
required in
the soupy mud.


That's why my anchoring modus is to lower the anchor in a controlled
fashion to the bottom, let out a little scope to let it drag to proper
position, and then let out 3-1 (faster than the boat moves, but not to
pile the chain on top of the anchor) and stop. Nearly all the time,
the boat will drift back, and, the anchor set. If not, nearly always
(otherwise), it will shortly set, as seen by the chain going taut. I
just tripped on that by doing it, not by reading the reports; it seems
to work...

Then I let out my anticipated scope, usually 5 to 7:1, in a bunch
(faster than the boat moves). That causes the boat to veer off and
blow down. As the chain starts to tigthen, it pulls the bow back
around, and, again, I look for the jerk (not the one standing over the
windlass button).

If it comes up short and hard, I assume it's reasonably set, back down
to be sure, and then attach the snubber and let out the required extra
to allow the chain to hang straight down...

YMMV as to your method, but it's pretty painless and doesn't involve
backing down until it's reasonably sure to be set.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
http://tinyurl.com/p7rb4 - NOTE:new URL! The vessel as Tehamana, as we
bought her

"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a
clear
night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize that you
are
quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to you that in the
general scheme of things you are merely an insignificant speck on the
surface of the ocean; and are not nearly so important or as
self-sufficient
as you thought you were. Which is an exceedingly wholesome thought,
and one
that may effect a permanent change in your deportment that will be
greatly
appreciated by your friends."- James S. Pitkin

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