Dual filter setup pix sought
 

As I work my way back from the bow (the bulkhead forward of the
saloon), being almost finished in there, my thoughts turn to what's
ahead (or behind/astern, as you prefer).

I succeeded in buying a second Racor on eBay, and two mounted 2-way
valves at a flea market, but would prefer to not have to reinvent the
wheel, as I'm sure there are many here who have done it already.

I considered an already-built dual system, a standard Racor part
number, but it was prohibitively expensive. Theirs, of course, has a
single valve which controls all functions, and a vacuum guage.

Can anyone point me to how to make two separate filters set up in
parallel with the least amount of fuss about it?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
http://tinyurl.com/p7rb4 - NOTE:new URL! The vessel as Tehamana, as we
bought her

"Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely
nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing,
messing-about-in-boats; messing about in boats-or *with* boats.
In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter,
that's the charm of it.
Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your
destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never
get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in
particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to
do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."

Dual filter setup pix sought
 

If you just want to switch over to a second filter, there are a couple
of different valve combinations that will do the job. However, if you
want to replace a filter element while the engine is running, you have
to make sure that air cannot be pulled into the engine fuel line via
the open filter. It's also good to have a system that is simple to
understand if someone who is new to the boat has to operate the valves.
On my boat I use a tee at each end of the filter bank, with on-off ball
valves at the inlet and outlet of each filter. Pretty obvious setup for
a stranger to figure out, and you can completely isolate whatever
section of the system you are working on.
You also have to figure out a way to re-prime the new filter with fuel.
On the bigger Racors with the T-handle you can pour fuel in the top
from a camping-type fuel container. Some of the smaller filters come
with a priming pump.
Two filters is a great idea, and saved me in a tight spot one night.
Well worth the several hundred in filters and plumbing!
Cheers
John

Dual filter setup pix sought
 

On Sun, 07 May 2006 11:38:43 -0700, Skip Gundlach wrote:

As I work my way back from the bow (the bulkhead forward of the
saloon), being almost finished in there, my thoughts turn to what's
ahead (or behind/astern, as you prefer).

I succeeded in buying a second Racor on eBay, and two mounted 2-way
valves at a flea market, but would prefer to not have to reinvent the
wheel, as I'm sure there are many here who have done it already.

I considered an already-built dual system, a standard Racor part
number, but it was prohibitively expensive. Theirs, of course, has a
single valve which controls all functions, and a vacuum guage.

Can anyone point me to how to make two separate filters set up in
parallel with the least amount of fuss about it?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
http://tinyurl.com/p7rb4 - NOTE:new URL! The vessel as Tehamana, as we
bought her

"Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely
nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing,
messing-about-in-boats; messing about in boats-or *with* boats.
In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter,
that's the charm of it.
Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your
destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never
get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in
particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to
do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."

Yield of a Google Image search for "fuel polishing"

Best Picture I could find.
http://www.islandeagle.net/userimages/img_2450.jpg

Diagram on this page.
http://www.islandeagle.net/systems/fuel

Hope this helps.

Dual filter setup pix sought
 

I don't have a current picture but basically I took a pair of 500FG and
mounted them on a board. The one on the right was turned to face backwards
so both of the "in" ports faced each other. There is a three way 3/8" NPT
valve between these two ports with an SAE adapter. Center goes to the day
tank and the outputs go to the Racor "in" ports. Then on the outsides I
came from the "out" ports with an SAE to NPT elbow to a 2" nipple. Then a
NPT to Swagelok elbow and a short length of stainless tube to the second 3
way valve. The center port of this valve goes to the engine. I set the
valve handles so that they both point to the active filter.

Theoretically the procedure to change elements is (assuming you have a
couple of paper towels to catch the drips and clean up and you have either
gravity feed or a small fuel pump at the tank. )
1. Drain the crud out of the bowl of the current filter.
2. Turn both valves to the new filter,
3. Crack open the top of the filter to be changed and drain the contents
into a container.
4. Replace the old element and refill with the fuel you drained in step 3.
5. Replace the lid but leave it slightly loose.
6. Switch back to the original filter.
7. Tighten the lid as soon as you see a little fuel start to come out of the
top.

This is not the recommended procedure because Racor recommends that the
filters be in slight vacuum rather than pressure but it works. If your set
up has the engine pull the fuel so that the filters stay in slight vacuum,
refill the filter with additional fuel within about 1/8" from the top and
close the lid tightly. This small amount of air will remain at the top of
the filter and away from the out port.

All of the parts are available on eBay but the SAE fittings. They are like
hydraulic fittings but not quite and they ain't cheap.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Skip Gundlach" wrote in message
oups.com...
As I work my way back from the bow (the bulkhead forward of the
saloon), being almost finished in there, my thoughts turn to what's
ahead (or behind/astern, as you prefer).

I succeeded in buying a second Racor on eBay, and two mounted 2-way
valves at a flea market, but would prefer to not have to reinvent the
wheel, as I'm sure there are many here who have done it already.

I considered an already-built dual system, a standard Racor part
number, but it was prohibitively expensive. Theirs, of course, has a
single valve which controls all functions, and a vacuum guage.

Can anyone point me to how to make two separate filters set up in
parallel with the least amount of fuss about it?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
http://tinyurl.com/p7rb4 - NOTE:new URL! The vessel as Tehamana, as we
bought her

"Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely
nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing,
messing-about-in-boats; messing about in boats-or *with* boats.
In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter,
that's the charm of it.
Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your
destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never
get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in
particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to
do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."

Dual filter setup pix sought
 

Thanks for the responses so far.

The boat pix is a factory job - the one I passed on cuz instead of
under a hundred, it was more like 500 in the bidding - and I already
had one. OTOH, if anyone knows where to buy the not-filters part of
that, certainly, that's the best way. However, I'll also pour over the
diagrams to see if that makes sense to me. The story about the hose
gave me chills - fortunately, mine's only 1/4" ID, and already bought.

My idea was, indeed, to be able to change the filter on the fly.
Having the ability to use one of them for fuel polishing wasn't my
priority, but interesting. As bouncy as the ride over when we bought
it was, it's possible we can get away without that. However, an ounce
of prevention, etc.

I'll have to sketch it out to see if I can visualize Glenn's - but I'm
sure his engineering mind will have it worked out :{)) Glenn, does it
look diagrammatically like the one before?

Keep those cards and letters coming :{))

And, as always, Thanks.

L8R

Skip

PS another Morgan Sailor - same hull, different deck, 452 #3, got the
raft

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
http://tinyurl.com/p7rb4 - NOTE:new URL! The vessel as Tehamana, as we
bought her

"Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely
nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing,
messing-about-in-boats; messing about in boats-or *with* boats.
In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter,
that's the charm of it.
Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your
destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never
get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in
particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to
do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."

Dual filter setup pix sought
 

On Sun, 07 May 2006 16:20:34 -0700, Skip Gundlach wrote:

Thanks for the responses so far.

The boat pix is a factory job - the one I passed on cuz instead of
under a hundred, it was more like 500 in the bidding - and I already
had one. OTOH, if anyone knows where to buy the not-filters part of
that, certainly, that's the best way. However, I'll also pour over the
diagrams to see if that makes sense to me. The story about the hose
gave me chills - fortunately, mine's only 1/4" ID, and already bought.

My idea was, indeed, to be able to change the filter on the fly.
Having the ability to use one of them for fuel polishing wasn't my
priority, but interesting. As bouncy as the ride over when we bought
it was, it's possible we can get away without that. However, an ounce
of prevention, etc.

I'll have to sketch it out to see if I can visualize Glenn's - but I'm
sure his engineering mind will have it worked out :{)) Glenn, does it
look diagrammatically like the one before?

Keep those cards and letters coming :{))

And, as always, Thanks.

L8R

Skip

PS another Morgan Sailor - same hull, different deck, 452 #3, got the
raft

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
http://tinyurl.com/p7rb4 - NOTE:new URL! The vessel as Tehamana, as we
bought her

"Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely
nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing,
messing-about-in-boats; messing about in boats-or *with* boats.
In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter,
that's the charm of it.
Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your
destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never
get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in
particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to
do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."

Approx. 2/3 of the way down the page. You need 2 three way valves.
The brass valve should work. It is like a tank selector valve on some
older dual tank trucks that had manual selection of fuel tanks.
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/barens_valve_ball.cfm

Each 3way valve will have to be turned to a position so
fuel flows through one filter and then through other valve to engine.
Fuel should flow through filter A or Filter B but not both at the same
time. If one valve is turned the wrong way you will have no flow to engine.



Copy and paste this to a text editor such as notepad. It should become
clear.


|------------FilterA--------|
Tank---------3wayvalve 3way valve-------engine
|____________filterB________|

Dual filter setup pix sought
 

On 7 May 2006 11:38:43 -0700, "Skip Gundlach"
wrote:

As I work my way back from the bow (the bulkhead forward of the
saloon), being almost finished in there, my thoughts turn to what's
ahead (or behind/astern, as you prefer).

I succeeded in buying a second Racor on eBay, and two mounted 2-way
valves at a flea market, but would prefer to not have to reinvent the
wheel, as I'm sure there are many here who have done it already.

I considered an already-built dual system, a standard Racor part
number, but it was prohibitively expensive. Theirs, of course, has a
single valve which controls all functions, and a vacuum guage.

Can anyone point me to how to make two separate filters set up in
parallel with the least amount of fuss about it?

Basically you need a supply line going to the tank feeding both
filters through their own on/off ball valve. The output side to the
engine looks the same, again with each filter with having its own ball
valve (total of 4). This allows the Racors to be totally isolated
during a filter change, which in turn allows "hot swapping" a filter
while underway. A vacuum guage on the suction side (towards the
engine) is very important. Without that you will not have an accurate
baseline for knowing when to change filters. I like to change mine
before they get to 5 psi since the Racors will start passing
contamination on through at about that point.

I normally leave the input valves on both filters open, and turn off
the output valve for the Racor not in use. If I suspect that a filter
element is becoming clogged (higher vacuum guage reading), I will open
the output valve on the second filter to verify that pressure drops.
If so, I close both input and output valves on the clogged unit until
I'm ready to change out the element.

If you have a large tank, and the boat will be sitting idle for any
length of time, a fuel polishing system is highly desirable, and well
worth the expense for the extra valves and fuel pump. An additional
electric fuel pump that can be valved in and out is also useful for
repriming and bleeding the fuel system. These are small touches that
can do a lot for overall reliability and ease of maintenance.

Dual filter setup pix sought
 

Easy ... called 'block and bypass' :

You need two tees & four valves.
A valve on EITHER side of each filter will allow switching out the
filter while under vacuum ... and without leaking all over the place.

How to run a parallel filter set with block and bypass: Run both
filters ON-LINE (active) .... as you will get ~3 times the life as with
running one to clogging then switching to the other 1+1 = 2.
If you run BOTH then the deposition of debris will tend to be more ON
the surface of the filter media than IN the filter media as with flow
to one. Monitor the performance with gages and when the vacuum
indication begins to move significantly, then shut the bypass and
change one, then run full open while chaning the other and then put it
back on line = 2 on line --- simply run with a momentary high
differential pressure on one as your continue to run on the other.
Best is to use wired differential pressure (vacuum) switches across
each filter wired to an alarm. You can set the 'trip' pressure that the
pressure activates the alarm.
Pressure feed is vastly better than vacuum feed with respect to
filtration .... significantly extendes the service life of filters -
has to do with the way that the particles are captured ... pressure
feed tends to deposit the debris ON the surface (using dirt to filter
dirt) while vacuum feed draws the particles deep into the filter media
hence plugging it faster. If you use stainless tube with double flared
connections then consider a pressure feed system. Boat manufacturers
being cheap use soft copper tube with compression fittings ... that
usuallly loosen with vibration and age. Also copper is CONTRAINDICATED
for use with (long term storage) diesel fuel --- promotes
decomposition.
:-) .


In article .com,
Skip Gundlach wrote:

As I work my way back from the bow (the bulkhead forward of the
saloon), being almost finished in there, my thoughts turn to what's
ahead (or behind/astern, as you prefer).

I succeeded in buying a second Racor on eBay, and two mounted 2-way
valves at a flea market, but would prefer to not have to reinvent the
wheel, as I'm sure there are many here who have done it already.

I considered an already-built dual system, a standard Racor part
number, but it was prohibitively expensive. Theirs, of course, has a
single valve which controls all functions, and a vacuum guage.

Can anyone point me to how to make two separate filters set up in
parallel with the least amount of fuss about it?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
http://tinyurl.com/p7rb4 - NOTE:new URL! The vessel as Tehamana, as we
bought her

"Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely
nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing,
messing-about-in-boats; messing about in boats-or *with* boats.
In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter,
that's the charm of it.
Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your
destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never
get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in
particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to
do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."

Dual filter setup pix sought
 

Dont use 3 way (or 4 way) valves in a fuel system. Such valves are
subject to 'cross port leakage' due to the contaminents in diesel fuel
oil .... sulphur + H2O = sulfonic acid which eats/etches most polished
valve faces. With cross port leakage you can't open up the 'other
side of the block/bypass without leakage. Use single valves instead;
two valves - one on EACH side of the filter housing; bring both
branches together with Tees.

In article llu7g.21455$iF3.20121@dukeread01, Glenn Ashmore
wrote:

I don't have a current picture but basically I took a pair of 500FG and
mounted them on a board. The one on the right was turned to face backwards
so both of the "in" ports faced each other. There is a three way 3/8" NPT
valve between these two ports with an SAE adapter. Center goes to the day
tank and the outputs go to the Racor "in" ports. Then on the outsides I
came from the "out" ports with an SAE to NPT elbow to a 2" nipple. Then a
NPT to Swagelok elbow and a short length of stainless tube to the second 3
way valve. The center port of this valve goes to the engine. I set the
valve handles so that they both point to the active filter.

Theoretically the procedure to change elements is (assuming you have a
couple of paper towels to catch the drips and clean up and you have either
gravity feed or a small fuel pump at the tank. )
1. Drain the crud out of the bowl of the current filter.
2. Turn both valves to the new filter,
3. Crack open the top of the filter to be changed and drain the contents
into a container.
4. Replace the old element and refill with the fuel you drained in step 3.
5. Replace the lid but leave it slightly loose.
6. Switch back to the original filter.
7. Tighten the lid as soon as you see a little fuel start to come out of the
top.

This is not the recommended procedure because Racor recommends that the
filters be in slight vacuum rather than pressure but it works. If your set
up has the engine pull the fuel so that the filters stay in slight vacuum,
refill the filter with additional fuel within about 1/8" from the top and
close the lid tightly. This small amount of air will remain at the top of
the filter and away from the out port.

All of the parts are available on eBay but the SAE fittings. They are like
hydraulic fittings but not quite and they ain't cheap.

Dual filter setup pix sought
 

Parallel filoter while intuitively a good thought rarely work on a boat
in practice. A high particle challenge situation that 'slug' one
filter will sequentially 'slug the second filter. It is VASTLY more
efficient to run a recirculation / polishing system INDEPENDENT of the
in line fuel deliver line as a high turn over recirculation filter will
VASTLY 'turn the tank over' much quicker )3-4 gallones per minute) than
an in-line filter (1 gallon per hour average). The advantage being
FASTER tank recovery back to 'normal' particle background .... using a
filter retention of approx 10 times the retention of the final filter
in the direct feed system. A 'techy' would call this the laws of
exponential decay PLUS the 10X retention filter does have an
efficiency (although low) at much smaller than the 'rating'. Since you
'turn-over' so much faster though the larger retention filter (with 10X
lower flow resistance) the net result is VERY fast clean up of the tank
contents.

Send me an email at RhmpL33(AT)att(DOT)net for a sketch of my
filtration train ( independent recirc. plus blocked and bypassed dual
parallel direct line filters .... plus on-line reserve (emergency) day
tank.
The day tank is a gravity feed 3 gallon 'storage' medium for clean fuel
.... so that if all hell breaks loose I can simply switch it IN to the
direct feed line and run for several hours .... and dont have to worry
about changing the diaphragm in the lift pump, could care less about
changing racors, etc. etc. etc. until 'things settle down'. I dont
know about you but usually a heavy sea state will knock crap loose in a
tank ... and thats NOT the time to go below and screw around with
'filters' - when the sea is running hard, if I put my head into the
bilge for any length of time ... I power -puke.