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#1
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Need Drivesaver advice
Since I'm stuck out of the water for a month, I think I may tackle
that "someday" job and pull my shaft to replace the stuffing box hose. I'd appreciate anyone who has had a shaftline with a Drivesaver apart recently taking a look at this and giving me your thoughts: Http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Stride...htm#Drivesaver It looks as though the bolts in the gear coupling are studs. Is this the case or are they bolts with heads inserted through the drivesaver before assembly? I haven't got much clearance to work with and may have to sacrifice and replace the studs by twisting them out with vice grips and then replacing. If they are bolts instead of studs, I'll be in a pickle unless I cut out the stuffing box hose first. I'm not sure I want to commit to the job this year unless I'm sure I'll be able to get the shaft out of the coupling. My plan is to get the Drivesaver out, insert something between the coupling halves that just bears on the shaft, and then use through bolts through the coupling to jack the shaft out. Much depends on getting that rusty set screw out. This was a fresh water boat so I don't expect it to be quite as bad as it looks. I'm going to make a dam around the screw with swimming pool epoxy and fill it with Liquid Wrench for a few days first. It looks as though the through bolt should drive out reasonably easily. Despite all the bad things I've said about Drivesavers, I plan to put it back just as it is because the boat is running smoothly enough and I don't want to buy a new shaft at this point. -- Roger Long |
#2
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Need Drivesaver advice
Roger Long wrote:
Since I'm stuck out of the water for a month, I think I may tackle that "someday" job and pull my shaft to replace the stuffing box hose. I'd appreciate anyone who has had a shaftline with a Drivesaver apart recently taking a look at this and giving me your thoughts: Http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Stride...htm#Drivesaver It looks as though the bolts in the gear coupling are studs. Is this the case or are they bolts with heads inserted through the drivesaver before assembly? I haven't got much clearance to work with and may have to sacrifice and replace the studs by twisting them out with vice grips and then replacing. If they are bolts instead of studs, I'll be in a pickle unless I cut out the stuffing box hose first. I'm not sure I want to commit to the job this year unless I'm sure I'll be able to get the shaft out of the coupling. My plan is to get the Drivesaver out, insert something between the coupling halves that just bears on the shaft, and then use through bolts through the coupling to jack the shaft out. Much depends on getting that rusty set screw out. This was a fresh water boat so I don't expect it to be quite as bad as it looks. I'm going to make a dam around the screw with swimming pool epoxy and fill it with Liquid Wrench for a few days first. It looks as though the through bolt should drive out reasonably easily. Despite all the bad things I've said about Drivesavers, I plan to put it back just as it is because the boat is running smoothly enough and I don't want to buy a new shaft at this point. Have a look at these pictures. Not sure if they help cause I can't tell your model. http://www.globerubberworks.com/nav....cts_drivesaver Evan Gatehouse |
#3
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Need Drivesaver advice
Thanks, that clearly and exactly answers my question. They are bolts
so I'm going to have to get enough clearance to pull them out. Everything is so closely coupled here that I think they must have put the shaft into the coupling after making it up or slid the engine back and forth on the mounts. The only way I can get enough clearance to undo this is to cut out the stuffing box hose and slide the stuffing box back. Then, I'll really be committed to the project. -- Roger Long |
#4
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Need Drivesaver advice
Looking at those pictures, the tolerances, and the pilots on the
Drivesavers, I'm having a hard time understanding why my propulsions guru's dislike them so much. I suspect it may be more of an issue in the high horsepower boats I've been dealing with than the typical cruiser engine. -- Roger Long |
#5
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Need Drivesaver advice
Http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Stride...htm#Drivesaver
It looks as though the bolts in the gear coupling are studs. Is this the case or are they bolts with heads inserted through the drivesaver before assembly? I haven't got much clearance to work with and may have to sacrifice and replace the studs by twisting them out with vice grips and then replacing. If they are bolts instead of studs, I'll be in a pickle unless I cut out the stuffing box hose first. I'm not sure I want to commit to the job this year unless I'm sure I'll be able to get the shaft out of the coupling. It doesn't look like much of a clearance problem. The nuts on the engine side should be removable with a box end wrench and the ones on the shaft side with the same, or a socket wrench. You'll have to get the shaft rotated of course, not sure how easily that's done in a boat. My plan is to get the Drivesaver out, insert something between the coupling halves that just bears on the shaft, and then use through bolts through the coupling to jack the shaft out. Much depends on getting that rusty set screw out. On the collar? If you release that set screw (bolt) you should be able to slide it back along the shaft, but it sure does look like it'll be a tight fit. Don't know, but once the collar's loose shouldn't the prop shaft slide out? At least enough to clear the collar? This was a fresh water boat so I don't expect it to be quite as bad as it looks. I'm going to make a dam around the screw with swimming pool epoxy and fill it with Liquid Wrench for a few days first. Heh, a friend of mine used to say "I hope the man that invented Liquid Wrench died peacefully in his sleep at a ripe old age". Saved our asses more than a few times as gear heads on his old Chevy. |
#6
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Need Drivesaver advice
Bill Kearney wrote:
Heh, a friend of mine used to say "I hope the man that invented Liquid Wrench died peacefully in his sleep at a ripe old age". Saved our asses more than a few times as gear heads on his old Chevy. Forget Liquid Wrench. Use PBlaster. Nothing finer. Kroil is o.k. but PBlaster has worked wonders for me. Evan Gatehouse |
#7
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Need Drivesaver advice
Bill Kearney writes:
Heh, a friend of mine used to say "I hope the man that invented Liquid Wrench died peacefully in his sleep at a ripe old age". He must have died with a guilty conscience, seeing as how Liquid Wrench is essentially overpriced kerosene. |
#8
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Need Drivesaver advice
Richard J Kinch wrote:
Bill Kearney writes: Heh, a friend of mine used to say "I hope the man that invented Liquid Wrench died peacefully in his sleep at a ripe old age". He must have died with a guilty conscience, seeing as how Liquid Wrench is essentially overpriced kerosene. Why should he feel "guilty" about that? Actually, Liquid Wrench is not listed as having kerosene by the National Institute of Health, though I'm sure its pretty close. Many STP products, however, are almost entirely kerosene. |
#9
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Need Drivesaver advice
Jeff writes:
Actually, Liquid Wrench is not listed as having kerosene by the National Institute of Health, though I'm sure its pretty close. Different names for the same thing. |
#10
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Need Drivesaver advice
"What goes up must come down" is about all I can contribute to your
dilemma. If it went in, it should come out. It seems unlikely the PO who installed it put the engine with tranny in after the shaft, the only way I can see to make a difference in the situation as you've described it. However, different makers treat their systems differently. I was offered a DS which didn't fit - and it seemed to be studs, of the sort on an engine mount. However, the type which uses a fail-safe pair of straps is definitely bolts in recesses for the heads based on some nubs, rather than a fully solid material such as yours. However, I'm baffled, given your prior assertions, that you don't eliminate the issue by using a solid spacer, as I'm, based on your scholarly treatise on the subject, going to do. It will have holes in it through which the bolts pass (of course, you still have to get the other out), making future exercises much less demanding. A cutting wheel would have that out in short order, if you didn't need to save it. Pictures of what I didn't use and what I will (before polishing to mirror, which can be seen later) are the first three in http://justpickone.org/skip/gallery/...ar06&start=132 - the polished spacer is 6 pages further in. Meanwhile, there's an interesting exposition/treatise on alignment by a power boat specialist (who also has an interesting section on blisters, but, I digress) at http://www.yachtsurvey.com/Alignment2.htm And, back to your problem, can the stuffing box tube be slid aft on the shaft tube to allow more movement? L8R Skip, off to finish the Vee LED rope lighting and then to replumbing the head Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC http://tinyurl.com/p7rb4 - NOTE:new URL! The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain |
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