Http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Stride...htm#Drivesaver

It looks as though the bolts in the gear coupling are studs. Is this
the case or are they bolts with heads inserted through the drivesaver
before assembly? I haven't got much clearance to work with and may
have to sacrifice and replace the studs by twisting them out with vice
grips and then replacing. If they are bolts instead of studs, I'll be
in a pickle unless I cut out the stuffing box hose first. I'm not
sure I want to commit to the job this year unless I'm sure I'll be
able to get the shaft out of the coupling.

It doesn't look like much of a clearance problem. The nuts on the engine
side should be removable with a box end wrench and the ones on the shaft
side with the same, or a socket wrench. You'll have to get the shaft
rotated of course, not sure how easily that's done in a boat.

My plan is to get the Drivesaver out, insert something between the
coupling halves that just bears on the shaft, and then use through
bolts through the coupling to jack the shaft out. Much depends on
getting that rusty set screw out.

On the collar? If you release that set screw (bolt) you should be able to
slide it back along the shaft, but it sure does look like it'll be a tight
fit. Don't know, but once the collar's loose shouldn't the prop shaft slide
out? At least enough to clear the collar?

This was a fresh water boat so I
don't expect it to be quite as bad as it looks. I'm going to make a
dam around the screw with swimming pool epoxy and fill it with Liquid
Wrench for a few days first.

Heh, a friend of mine used to say "I hope the man that invented Liquid
Wrench died peacefully in his sleep at a ripe old age". Saved our asses
more than a few times as gear heads on his old Chevy.