Since there isn't a perfect fit between the straight and taper
threads, I would use a pipe dope that will set up a bit instead of
Teflon tape.

Those backing blocks are very small. Adding the valves will put a lot
more leverage. Be careful not to store anything heavy that could fall
against these through hulls.

--

Roger Long



wrote in message
oups.com...

Thanks for everyone's comments. I took the hose clamps off the
original
piping yesterday and it looks like it's a 1 inch external diameter,
threaded bronze fitting. Perfect. I'll find a bronze (or stainless?)
ball valve to match, drop it in with some teflon tape, and install
some
good new hose. Looks like all I can get in terms of hose clamps
locally
is 304 but I'll keep an eye on them. Freshwater situation so we'll
see
how it goes.

Here's a shot with the current clear plastic drain hose with the
clamps
removed. You can see the threaded connection partially exposed.

http://users.openface.ca/~fox/drain-connection.jpg

Good point about teeing the other drains in - there are two
seat-level
drains, as well as along the gunnel (sp?) so it's six + sink = seven
feeding into the two lines. Could be a problem for the fiberglass -
also an issue with the flexibility (see the PVC comment, thanks
Gary).

I agree that the drains are a bit small but it looks like it's 1
inch
all the way, so to enlarge them at the point would be a more
substantial project, presumably also would involve replacing the
through hulls with larger diameter. Maybe that's a job for next
season.


Thanks again,

-CB