wrote:
I don't want to screw with the existing through hulls (hell the boat's
been floating for 35 years now)

'K... it does work, but some of us are paranoid and just
*have* to tell you about all possible failure modes


Bob yeah there is going to be *very scant* freeboard I bet. Closing the
seacocks? I don't know, I get out there once/twice a week and if it
rains a lot cockpit will flood and possibly forward into the cabin.
Transom drainage came about 2 years later as a standard design AFAIK
and in this cockpit the traveller is supported by a little wall on the
back there that closes off the rest.. The (outboard) engine well itself
drains back but everything else is to the front (Roger).


I think closing off the cockpit drain valves while you're
away from the boat is a bad idea. That's one of the things
that make solid fiberglass tubes a good idea IMHO. But
you're right, it's worked all this time and will continue.

It would be less trouble than putting in solid tube fwd
drains and may help if you add a drain tube thru the back
wall under the traveler. Cockpit drainage capacity is one of
those things where more is definitely better!



What's the complexity with the teflon tape? I've used this before on
conventional plumbing but I suppose it's not as critical there - what
is the right and wrong way to apply it?


The basics of the right way:

Always start with clean thread.

Always double check that you're using the right tape for the
service.

Start one thread back from the end of the nipple. The
initial thread contact must be metal to metal.

Wrap the tape the same direction as the threads, so that as
you screw in the fitting, the tape wraps tighter.

Never more than three wraps.

Never put teflon tape on any non-tapered fitting, and never
use teflon tape as a substitute for the right size & pitch
of thread.





Again thanks for everyone's comments. I may have more info to follow up
on tomorrow. Cheers,


You're welcome and I'll be looking out for your results. I'm
going down to the boat this weekend myself, epoxy kit in hand!

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

"DSK" wrote

I think closing off the cockpit drain valves while you're away from
the boat is a bad idea.

I agree 100% now that I understand the configuration of this cockpit.
Having the hoses break is a much smaller danger.

--

Roger Long

Bob yeah there is going to be *very scant* freeboard I bet. Closing the
seacocks? I don't know, I get out there once/twice a week and if it
rains a lot cockpit will flood and possibly forward into the cabin.
Transom drainage came about 2 years later as a standard design AFAIK
and in this cockpit the traveller is supported by a little wall on the
back there that closes off the rest.. The (outboard) engine well itself
drains back but everything else is to the front (Roger).


I think closing off the cockpit drain valves while you're away from the
boat is a bad idea. That's one of the things that make solid fiberglass
tubes a good idea IMHO. But you're right, it's worked all this time and
will continue.

It would be less trouble than putting in solid tube fwd drains and may
help if you add a drain tube thru the back wall under the traveler.
Cockpit drainage capacity is one of those things where more is
definitely better!
If you run the drain hoses back under the cockpit you can get right back
to the transom. The little traveler bulkhead doesn't extend down below
the deck. But why bother?

The other challenge on my boat was teeing in the drains up on the seats
to the deck drains. That would make fiberglass pipe much more difficult.

Gary

DSK wrote:

The basics of the right way:

Always start with clean thread.

Always double check that you're using the right tape for the
service.

Start one thread back from the end of the nipple. The
initial thread contact must be metal to metal.

Wrap the tape the same direction as the threads, so that as
you screw in the fitting, the tape wraps tighter.

Never more than three wraps.

Never put teflon tape on any non-tapered fitting, and never
use teflon tape as a substitute for the right size & pitch
of thread.

What is recommended for a bronze-on-bronze straight thread fitting?
Anyone have pipe dope brand suggestions? Is there anything specifically
wrong with teflon tape on a straight fitting, and what is it? I've seen
here and there that teflon on NPS is fine, and one of the reps at a
west marine shop just told me that that would be fine..

I have also read that teflon tape is a lot cleaner than dope/goo..
which I can believe.

But of course I must turn to the experts on this group

Thanks,

-CB