Roger Long wrote:
Just how important is the UV, Interior/Exterior business anyway?

Quite, IMO. But that doesn't mean the sun won't eat the varnish. Used
to have a boat with a yard...top of the yard needed doing every six
months max. Rest of the boat could go 18-24 months. About half that
without UV protection.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
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Chris writes:

It won't chip or peel, but is this enough for teak in sun and
weather?

Depends on the meaning of "enough".

The "teak oil" at the chandler's is just 1 part linseed oil to 4 parts
mineral spirits, in a fancy package. Why not apply it full strength?

Richard J Kinch wrote:
Chris writes:


It won't chip or peel, but is this enough for teak in sun and
weather?


Depends on the meaning of "enough".

The "teak oil" at the chandler's is just 1 part linseed oil to 4 parts
mineral spirits, in a fancy package. Why not apply it full strength?

Do you think 'thinning' or 'cutting' it with mineral spirits helps it
penetrate the wood?

On Tue, 04 Apr 2006 14:20:45 +0000, Roger Long wrote:

So is it silly to use marine varnish? It sounds like a good exterior
varnish from the hardware store would do just as well and half the
price.

I've used the super durable, very fast drying, polyurethane varnish left
over from re-doing our hardwood floors for a number of non-boat
projects. It's great. I put six coats on a mahogany base for a model in
one day and it looks like I spend weeks on it. The marine varnish I've
been using takes 24 hours before I can sand it easily and put another
coat on and doesn't look any better.

The problem with PU varnish is that it will still crack and peel like
anything else. But when you need to patch or redo it, what's left is next
to impossible to remove. It's probably the best thing for interiors
though.

If I was sure about the UV aspect, I'd use that floor varnish on my
(already varnished) exterior teak. It sure would be nice to have it dry
in an hour and be working on another coat instead of worrying about
whether the guy next to me was going to be sanding his white paint.

Just how important is the UV, Interior/Exterior business anyway? The
marine varnish I put on some of my exterior trim pretty much disappeared
over the season anyway.

It's everything! UV actually causes the wood to break down, which is what
causes varnish to crack and peel. Think about it -- debonding from the
wood has to happen from the wood side, not the weather side.

FWIW, Cetol has that orange tone because it contains iron oxide for UV
protection. This gives the most bang for the buck in terms of UV
protection. Clear UV protectants are expensive, and not quite as
effective.

I've had great luck with Deks Olje. The #1, basically an oil finish,
builds up quicker and easier than anything. If you like a satin finish
it's good as-is. If you want gloss you can put the #2 on over it. The #2
isn't as hard and glossy as the hardest and glossiest finishes, but it's
good enough for most people. If you want the boat to shine for a special
event, you can just sand in a coat of #1, then slap on a coat of #2. The
best thing about Deks Olje is that it's so easy to maintain, so you'll
actually do it.

I've been using a little Cetol lately, to see how it holds up and how easy
it is to maintain, compared to the Deks Olje. Ask me about it at the end
of this summer.

Matt O.

Don White writes:

Why not just use Teak Oil.

If you check the MSDS, you'll see that "teak oil" is just well-thinned
linseed oil.

Don White writes:

Do you think 'thinning' or 'cutting' it with mineral spirits helps it
penetrate the wood?

No. It helps it penetrate your wallet.

Among my boatbuilder acquaintances, there is not unanimity about varnish,
but we've narrowed it down to a few brands which are OK. The leading few
are Epifanes, Z-Spar, The West Marine house brands (Z-spar re-packaged), and
Interlux, but there have been a couple of positive mentions from otherwise
respectable people, of Le Tonkinois. Myself, I use Epifanes mostly. It
goes on a bit thicker and therefore builds faster. I have no experience
with LeTonkinois.
Whether it's going onto teak, mahogany or spruce makes no difference.

Maybe you can help with a question I asked here a while ago and never
got a good answer. My teak all has heavy coats of varnish that is now
chipped and cracking so it needs to come off. It's quite orange and
now I know why.

Questions:

Can I scrape it and use Decks Olje or similar oil successfully? I'd
rather put something on with a rag more often than get out masking
tape and brushes less often. (You use brushes for the first coats,
right?)

If I help the process along with a stripper, will I have problems with
the Decks Olje?

I ask because the teak I did scrape and revarnish didn't look like
teak because of varnish left in the grain. I don't want to remove
enough wood to get below that.

It's funny. I couldn't get straight answers to these questions in the
Wooden Boat Magazine forum either.

BTW I'm not compulsive about appearance. Our boat is like a very
attractive 60 year old woman. I just want the teak to look cared for;
not new.

--

Roger Long

Chris wrote:
I know lineseed oil, I use it for interior wood. It will not build
up a layer on the surface of the wood like varnish does, but
soak into the wood surface.
It won't chip or peel, but is this enough for teak in sun and
weather?

Teak being used for what? If you have a teak deck, you want it to
weather (or at least I do) so that it develops those nice, rough
anti-slip ridges. No oil, no anything.

OTOH, if it is just a pretty-pretty, and you like the look of oiled
wood, go for it. If you like shiny, use varnish. Either will have to
be reapplied at intervals depending on weather/exposure conditions.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

The Deks Olje will give the wood the same kind of color that varnish would.
Which means, whatever color the wood is before you apply it, it'll turn that
color of wood into that color of wood with varnish ...no hiding. Sounds to
me like you probably have to scrape the varnish and then accept whatever
color you get. You might try an Oxyclean mix scrubbed into it and let soak.
Chlorine seems to be harder on the wood. I'm sure some chemist can tell us
why. The Deks Olje will go onto anything, but will not soak into hard
varnish, but soaks into the wood pretty well. I put it on the deck of a
boat once and let it go for 5 years (all outdoor exposure, mostly on the
trailer though) before retreating and it kept the wood new looking all
along. I was impressed. I also liked the Deks Olje varnish-like color and
the fact that it allowed the wood to keep its natural non-slip qualities
(unlike shiny hard varnish wet with spray). The Deks Olje wood stayed
non-slip even when wet. No affiliation. I just liked the product.

Can you experiment on a hidden area first? Then commit the rest of the job?

Brian D


"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
Maybe you can help with a question I asked here a while ago and never got
a good answer. My teak all has heavy coats of varnish that is now chipped
and cracking so it needs to come off. It's quite orange and now I know
why.

Questions:

Can I scrape it and use Decks Olje or similar oil successfully? I'd
rather put something on with a rag more often than get out masking tape
and brushes less often. (You use brushes for the first coats, right?)

If I help the process along with a stripper, will I have problems with the
Decks Olje?

I ask because the teak I did scrape and revarnish didn't look like teak
because of varnish left in the grain. I don't want to remove enough wood
to get below that.

It's funny. I couldn't get straight answers to these questions in the
Wooden Boat Magazine forum either.

BTW I'm not compulsive about appearance. Our boat is like a very
attractive 60 year old woman. I just want the teak to look cared for; not
new.

--

Roger Long