Also, any information on sizing, deploying & attachment, etc.....

Thank you,
Courtney

In the stupid tricks you shouldn't try at home category, I experimented
with floating anchor rode and found that a floating rode and strong
tidal currents don't go well together... I also discovered that a
spare anchor makes a fine kellet. In my case I just used a snatch
block to attach it to the rode but a loop of slippery line would work.
The retrieval line will weave itself onto the rode over time so you'll
need to unwind it. Anchorman in New Zealand make a set of nice kellets
if you don't want to go the DIY route. The biggest kellet you want to
carry around is going to be the right size but anything will help.

-- Tom.

also availible from a search he

use a "cannon ball" used in west coast salmon/tuna troll fishery. lead
weight from 20-40 pounds. Cheep compared to "marine kellets"
Bob

Hi all

Lots of good operator advice here.
In adition, you MUST get and read the anchoring book by Hinz, Earl R.
After reading it you reallize the anchor is the last part of an
anchoring system to consider. The first thing to ask is, How much drag
(pull) will you create. From there you can develop a complete anchoring
system. For example, no use putting the biggest hook on the bottom only
to have your line part or the cleat ripped off the deck.

Bob

Make one yourself
Lead casting is not hard (melt the lead 'outside' to avoid the toxic
fumes) A coleman stove will be adequate. use and old cooking pot
(discard the pot when done). Get your lead from an automotive tire
store - buy the used balance weights.
Make a mold using an 'instant concrete mix ', use ;just enough' water
to make a very dry mix, then put in an oven to completely dry the mold
- the mold has to be *completely dry" when pouring in molten metal..
Use solid stainless eye screws for the attachments.'through' the
casting.


.com, Bob
wrote:

also availible from a search he

use a "cannon ball" used in west coast salmon/tuna troll fishery. lead
weight from 20-40 pounds. Cheep compared to "marine kellets"
Bob

On Wed, 15 Feb 2006 21:03:11 -0500, in message

"anxious boater" wrote:

Speaking of weight, you can go to walmart or similar store and purchase an
single cement/plaster weight from a weight lifting set. 2lbs - 25 lbs.
cheap.

Or you could just use a five gallon jerry can full of fresh water that
weighs 50 lbs, but floats if you toss it overboard at sea. There is
considerable handling advantage in making sure that you use something
that is both heavy and dense.

Ryk

I have a friend that filled a 5-gallon pail with cement...set a swivel into
the cement and connected three anchors to the swivel. He coated the swivel
with a rubber coating intended for coating the handles of tools like pliers.
It works for longer term anchoring real well, yet it can be pulled up when
one wants to move. He's never dragged anchor like this.

Glenn.
s/v Seawing
www.seawing.net


"Ryk" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Feb 2006 21:03:11 -0500, in message

"anxious boater" wrote:

Speaking of weight, you can go to walmart or similar store and purchase
an
single cement/plaster weight from a weight lifting set. 2lbs - 25 lbs.
cheap.

Or you could just use a five gallon jerry can full of fresh water that
weighs 50 lbs, but floats if you toss it overboard at sea. There is
considerable handling advantage in making sure that you use something
that is both heavy and dense.

Ryk