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#1
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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standing rigging
"Roger Long" wrote in message ... I would certainly agree with 10 years in salt water although very few people actually do. I can't remember seeing or hearing of a dismasted coastal cruiser. Any Great Lakes or other fresh water owners have recommendations or dismastings to report? -- Roger Long Not answering your question - but attempting to put another dimension into the discussion - Most failures on properly designed rigs are due to metal fatigue (agreed, often initiated by tiny corrosion weaknesses). So surely the prudent timing of rig replacement will depend on the degree to which the rig is over-designed? A point often ignored by insurers. A European example which I know of is the difference between a 40ft Oyster and a 40ft Beneteau, both built around 1990, with nearly identical masts. All the Oyster's main rigging was 10mm, with intermediates of 8mm. The Beneteau used 8mm with 6mm intermediates. The Oyster was advertised as a 'round the worlder', the other as a 'performance cruiser'. My (unthinking) reaction would be to life the Beneteau rigging at around 10 years, and give the Oyster nearly twice that. But then the mean streak in me came out. Instead I instituted a regime of annual *close* inspection (most of the suitable techniques have been aired already). Bottlescrew crack? See if there's an obvious cause of the fault; if you can't find a cause, replace them all. Strand gone? Search for obvious causes; if none, replace all similarly stressed wires. Under this regime all the Beneteau rigging was replaced between 8 and 12 years old (inner forestay twice). Most replacements were initiated by strand failures at the bottom swage. The Oyster changed a forestay at 10 years (yard damage bent the stay when the mast was lowered, cracking a strand at the upper swage) and the backstay sustained damage on a yacht lift. The inner forestay was replaced twice - cracks at the lower swage. All bottlescrews replaced. 25 years so far for caps and intermediates . . . I think the new owner is replacing these for long term peace of mind! I'm aware that the Oyster was about twice the displacement of the Beneteau, so the inertia stresses on the Beneteau rigging would have been higher (all that bouncing around!). So perhaps my assumption about overdesign has been amplified in this case. Whatever, my conclusions a 1. Nothing beats annual *close* inspection for checking rig safety 2. Corrosion initiates many failures (bottom swage faults most common) 3. Your chances of suffering a fault are much higher on more highly stressed rigs 4. The 'life' of a rig can be very long indeed if it is understressed (under-use or overdesign) So, thinking about all the rain we have in W Europe, my opinion (untested) is that the fresh water issue is probably secondary compared to the design issue. JimB |
#2
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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standing rigging
On Sun, 01 Jan 2006 11:29:13 -0500, prodigal1 wrote:
In another overly long thread about the merits of the C&C33, someone mentioned rigging as a potential issue in an older boat. Would anyone care to share experience with assessing the condition of rigging on a freshwater-only sailboat? Look-fors? Tips? Sources of information? Cheers and Happy 2006! --only 16 weeks till launch day-- There's the obvious eyeball "tests" of looking for cracks, rust weeping, deformation of holes, fraying wire, terminals with suspiciously shiny wire, etc. There's the dye tests. Interpreting those is a rigger's art. There's the X-ray tests. Even more so. I have 1/4" original (33 years) 7 x 19 standing rigging all around in freshwater with good quality Merriman open turnbuckles which I inspect and lube yearly. I eyeball the entire spar before launch, paying particular attention to cotter pins, tangs, etc. My insurance company isn't making a fuss, and the boat passes survey requirements. I also inspect the chainplates and have replaced two bolts there in six years. I can see a day when that job will have to be attended to: there's a slight deformation in the hole in one plate...but I don't race it and I reef early. Even so, common sense and a sort of learned conservatism would say that I should replace the lot (except the heavy and undamaged mast) in the next five or less years. Certainly, the desire to have new sheaves and to go to new all-rope halyards is part of that. At that time, I will likely replace ALL chainplates, which is a big, nasty job, but it will allow me to service and maybe reglass and retab all the structural elements tying the plates to the hull. Brion Toss's "Rigger's Companion" is great on all this stuff, or buy a surveyor a few beers. R. |
#3
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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standing rigging
rhys wrote:
snip Brion Toss's "Rigger's Companion" is great on all this stuff, or buy a surveyor a few beers. Thanks Rhys and others. Our marina owner has been around boats all his life and his take is that unless the wire is pulling out of the swages, rigging doesn't stretch and doesn't need replacing for that reason. I'm not sure I agree. I'm guessing the gear on mine is as old as the boat (40 yrs. this year) It -looks- good, to my eye, but I'm not a surveyor. My issue is with the inner starboard shroud which appears to have been stretched. The mast is measured true, chainplates and swages appear correct but the turnbuckle is tightened completely to the end of its threads compared to the port side. No evidence of galling or overtightening on the threads. Perhaps a poor measuring job sometime in the past? I think I'm going to err on the side of caution and have it all redone. I like the idea of new sheaves and rope halyards as well. |
#4
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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standing rigging
In article ,
prodigal1 wrote: My issue is with the inner starboard shroud which appears to have been stretched. The mast is measured true, chainplates and swages appear correct but the turnbuckle is tightened completely to the end of its threads compared to the port side. No evidence of galling or overtightening on the threads. Perhaps a poor measuring job sometime in the past? If it's the only shroud, that's probably the case, though inspect the upper attachment carefully. I think I'm going to err on the side of caution and have it all redone. I like the idea of new sheaves and rope halyards as well. Sometimes, the comfort of knowing it's right is worth the cost. -- Jere Lull Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD) Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
#5
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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standing rigging
My 28' S2 was out of the water and the mast was down and I had no
intention of replacing the rigging even after 20 yrs cuz it looked ok even on close inspection. However, I read an article in the BOATUS insurance mag about rigging cracks so I got out my 10x magnifier and looked even closer. Damn if I didnt find a crack in a SS fitting. I looked more and used very fine sand paper to remove some brown stains. Under these stains were cracks and the stains were where the SS had become non-SS in the cracks. About half the fittings had cracks (20 yrs in salt water in FL). Next, i tried dye testing which showed nothing even on the known cracks. Took the fittings to work where I have more sophisticated equipment and looked at the fittings under various Mag. Tried to grind out the cracks but they went all the way through so they were real. I replaced all the standing rigging and lifelines. |
#6
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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standing rigging
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