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wrote:
Thanks for all the input. I realize that the C&C 33 was not designed
to cross oceans. But this is the boat I have and don't really want to
spend the time and resources to find the "right" boat, anyway. If I
did have those kinds of resources I would probably buy a West Sail,
Pacific Seacraft, Hans Christain, or something of the like in the
32'-34' range. Unfortunately I don't have and extra $80,000 laying
around. From the advice that I've received on this forum I would
gather that based on the assumed experience of the posters that the C&C
33 is certainly capable of crossing the Atlantic, pending all systems
have been upgraded. This being said, allow me to post another
question. What would likely be the points of failure on the C&C 33
were it to encounter boarding seas and squalls. I need to know what
systems will require the most attention.
Rob Minton

Rob
I think C&C's have a pretty good reputation for build quality so I
don't think you need to worry too much about structural integrity.
After all, I don't think that many boats actually break up and sink.
What stops a voyage is a broken mast, broken rudder or blown out sails.
Its generally felt that small boats are not as comfortable at sea as
larger, heavier, boats so there will be some challenges with regard to
sleeping, cooking, navigating.
Storage space will also pose some challenges but you could store a lot
of freeze dried food on a 33 if you had to. Water capacity will need
the most consideration.

What to improve?
Well keeping the mast up is number 1 so obviously you need to at least
have the standing rigging carefully inspected. Its probably rod
rigging and this stuff has proven to be quite durable but again it
needs to be inspected or replaced. If I had the money I'd replace it
the year before I went and test it thoroughly. If you can't afford new
rod you could add some redundancy to the standing rigging by adding a
solent inner forestay and running backstays. Then you would have two
forestays, maybe 3 if you have the babystay, and 3 backstays. That
should hold the rig up in a blow. You would also want to inspect the
chain plates and their attachment to the hull. I've heard of this
happening too often but I always worry about the gooseneck breaking at
some point, perhaps during a gybe. I think I'd have this looked at and
critiqued for offshore use.

You need the rudder to stay in the boat and keep turning. I'd check
that system carefully and probably replace the steering wire. Also
make sure the emergency tiller really works.
As one poster mentioned the hatches on these 20 year old boats often
leak. I would replace the forward hatch with an ocean capable version.
Increasing the size of the cockpit drains / thruhulls may be a good
idea.

A lot of people will point to the glued-in ports as a weakness. I
don't know. They are fairly long but not that tall so they might take
some pounding. The safest approach would be to fit removable lexan
storm shutters. You could leave the original plexiglass in place and
fit an additional quarter inch layer of acrylic on the outside. This
would overlap by an inch and be held in place by bolts going through a
stainless steel trim plate. Some folks do this just to stop the leaks
rather than rebed the existing plexiglass.
Some other things to look at would be how well the batteries/fuel
tanks/water tanks/stove are kept in place.

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