Nonskid tape on the lexan. I also saw some hollow stockade fence that might
work. I would like to get rid of the 50 plus pounds my waterlogged floor has
become.
- Allen
p.s.: found 12 inch wide duct tape at HD. called "Big Fix duct tape" goes in
my crsh bag.

In article ,
Don White wrote:

wrote:
Would I need to use a special kind of plywood - some "marine" grade
or something? I think that the existing floor is coated with Cetol
which is why I thought that would be the best finish to put on.


I've read that the glue in outdoor plywood is the same as used in the
marine version. The major difference is that all the 'knot hole'
voids are filled in the marine grade but not so in outdoor grade.
Since your dingy is old and will probably be replaced within 3-5
years, I'd go with the cheaper plywood and seal it well with a good
oil primer/paint. (or Cetol if you already have some)

It's not the same glue. Additionally, marine ply doesn't mix woods
(which expand and contract at different rates, breaking bonds quickly)
and the plies are thinner - more plies & greater strength.

Though I love Cetol, the floorboards can be taken home to refinish
properly and varnish is better for this application as it stands up to
abrasion better.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 13:20:49 -0800, Peter Bennett
wrote:

On 19 Dec 2005 09:57:27 -0800, wrote:

We are trying to several more years of service from our old inflatible
dinghy, which has been serving us well despite a few patches. I need
to repair and refinish the three-piece plywood floor now that it has
been dry for a couple of months. The corners of the pieces are worn
and delaminated, so I am wondering what to use to repair them - is
there some wood filler or epoxy that would be best? Also, I was going
to refinish the wood with Cetol but someone recommended a polyurathane
varnish instead. What would be best for a tough finish (not so
concerned about how it looks but I don't want to do this again for a
while)?

I would suggest making new floorboards from scratch, using the old
ones as templates for cutting the plywood for the new ones.

I would paint the new floor with ordinary porch and floor enamel.


I'm with Peter on this. Wouldn't need to be marine ply necessarily.
Exterior, or exterior treated ply would do well. Floor paint is
exceptionally tough.

Brian Whatcott

Dave wrote:
On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 05:11:18 GMT, Jere Lull said:


Though I love Cetol, the floorboards can be taken home to refinish
properly and varnish is better for this application as it stands up to
abrasion better.


Which would you choose for a tiller? (Mine's stripped and ready to finish.)
eight to 10 coats of Admiral's varnish.
krj

In article ,
Dave wrote:

On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 05:11:18 GMT, Jere Lull said:

Though I love Cetol, the floorboards can be taken home to refinish
properly and varnish is better for this application as it stands up to
abrasion better.

Which would you choose for a tiller? (Mine's stripped and ready to finish.)

Whatever Practical Sailor's rating tops in a clear, hard finish. Cetol
just doesn't cut it with a laminated tiller as the contrasts are too
pretty to hide with an opaque finish, and tillers are subject to
abrasion and dings.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

Last season as a test I use tung oil with UV protection on the bare wood
laminated tiller.
This gave it some tone and promoted the grain. Then I applied two coats of
exterior waterborne urethane vanish. So far so good. This fall I sanded it
lightly and applied two coats of the same waterborne varnish.

"Jere Lull" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Dave wrote:

On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 05:11:18 GMT, Jere Lull said:

Though I love Cetol, the floorboards can be taken home to refinish
properly and varnish is better for this application as it stands up to
abrasion better.

Which would you choose for a tiller? (Mine's stripped and ready to
finish.)

Whatever Practical Sailor's rating tops in a clear, hard finish. Cetol
just doesn't cut it with a laminated tiller as the contrasts are too
pretty to hide with an opaque finish, and tillers are subject to
abrasion and dings.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

As for the floor boards, if you intent to keep the dinghy for several years
i.e. 5 years or more, I had very good success with high grade marine plywood
(5Ply).
If you are not able to get this type of plywood construction grade will do.
Avoid low quality ply made in China.
Once you have cut the boards to size the void should be filled. Then the
boards saturated with thin layers of epoxy. Three coats of epoxy or more
will ensure a long lasting job.
Because epoxy is not UV protected two or three coats of waterborne diamond
urethane vanish will finish the boards well and protect the epoxy from the
sun. After that refreshing the waterborne vanish every season or when need
it is easy. This may look overkill. Not at all I have witnessed one friend
doing it the way I have described and one other doing it quickly.
After two to three years the quick way was about ready to rott and the
overkill way was and still looking good after more than 6 years.
If you are happy about the configuration of your old boards you may use them
as templates to cut the new one. If not, doing some prototype cut outs with
inexpensive composite material or cardboard is a sure way to make these new
boards fit properly.
BTW even with hight grade marine Ply I saturated the cut outs with epoxy
before and after assembly.
In the US and Canada only one type of waterproof glue is used in the making
of indoor or outdoor plywood. They use the same glue for both.



"Jere Lull" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Dave wrote:

On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 05:11:18 GMT, Jere Lull said:

Though I love Cetol, the floorboards can be taken home to refinish
properly and varnish is better for this application as it stands up to
abrasion better.

Which would you choose for a tiller? (Mine's stripped and ready to
finish.)

Whatever Practical Sailor's rating tops in a clear, hard finish. Cetol
just doesn't cut it with a laminated tiller as the contrasts are too
pretty to hide with an opaque finish, and tillers are subject to
abrasion and dings.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

For marine-grade plywood, should I go to a lumberyard or a boating
store (we have Boaters World and West Marine nearby)? I guess I would
get the same thickness as the current boards. Is there a special type
of epoxy to use? I presume that you mean to saturate both the cut
edges and top/bottom of new floor boards? This sounds like a lot of
work if I then have to varnish too, but maybe it will be worth it if
they last a few years. I would like to get another 4 years or so out
of the dinghy. The only other problems we have with it is that the
finish has become "chalky".

wrote:
For marine-grade plywood, should I go to a lumberyard or a boating
store (we have Boaters World and West Marine nearby)? I guess I would
get the same thickness as the current boards. Is there a special type
of epoxy to use? I presume that you mean to saturate both the cut
edges and top/bottom of new floor boards? This sounds like a lot of
work if I then have to varnish too, but maybe it will be worth it if
they last a few years. I would like to get another 4 years or so out
of the dinghy. The only other problems we have with it is that the
finish has become "chalky".


I live right on the Atlantic Ocean and I've never seen marine plywood in
a normal lumberyard. Here I'd have to go to specialty business that
would charge plenty.

As a reference check http://store.yahoo.com/hardwoodint/34twinbirmar.html.
The average cost of marine plywood is between $45.00 to $75.00 for a 4'X8' X
3/4" thick.
A decent marine plywood should pass the British Standard for boiling test.
Yes you have to saturate both the cut edges and top/bottom of new floor
boards?
The epoxy we have used was formulated by West System. Any decent epoxy sold
by East, West, Raka or their equivalent should do a good job.
As for the procurement of the material you should googled the Internet and
find out what is available in your area.
More and more boat builders are using a polymer composite material named
StarBoard for hatch doors, Check
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...King.Starboard
This new polymer panel may cost more but its maintenance free and requires
little preparation compare to plywood and teak.



wrote in message
ups.com...
For marine-grade plywood, should I go to a lumberyard or a boating
store (we have Boaters World and West Marine nearby)? I guess I would
get the same thickness as the current boards. Is there a special type
of epoxy to use? I presume that you mean to saturate both the cut
edges and top/bottom of new floor boards? This sounds like a lot of
work if I then have to varnish too, but maybe it will be worth it if
they last a few years. I would like to get another 4 years or so out
of the dinghy. The only other problems we have with it is that the
finish has become "chalky".