| Page 1 of 2 | 1 | 2 |
|
|
Anchor lines
How do all you cruisers keep your boats from walking all over the place
when using brait or nylon at anchor? Chain lays on the bottom and pretty much holds you in one place but line lets a boat roam at will. How do you prevent that? Gordon -- Ask not for whom the terrorist bell tolls; it tolls for thee, and thee, and thee--for decent, innocent people everywhere. |
Anchor lines
On Fri, 9 Dec 2005 08:01:16 -0800, "Gordon"
wrote: How do you prevent that? ========================== I use chain. :-) The boat still wanders but to a lesser extent. I can actually track the swing arc on my chart plotter when sufficiently zoomed in. In addition to the chain rode, I use a nylon hook line which acts as a shock absorber. After setting up the hook line I let out additional chain sufficicent to create a loop touching the bottom. This deepens the chain catenary and creates some friction with the bottom near the bow of the boat. It still wanders. Probably the best answer for a non-chain rode is to send down a kellet (weight or secondary anchor) on a messenger line. If nothing else this will shorten up your swing radius. |
Anchor lines
Gordan - does your question point to a specify boat or type of boat?
Yes chain and chain/rode combo will dampen the boat's action but will not stop the swing at anchor unless its calm. Nothing wrong with all nylon if the rode is long enough and the bottom conditions will not damage the rode. Draw back to all chain, in a hard blow the chain has no give and will be violent when the boat is swinging/sailing around. Most cruisers with all chain will have a nylon snubber 10 to 15 feet which hooks into the chain and absorbs the shock. Swing at anchor is normal. Some boats swing more, some less. Some boats will have a steadying sail to keep them pointed into the wind. This sail can be a reefed mizzen sail or a small sail hooked to the backstay. If a boat swings too much, most likely there is not enough scope out. I think your question is an observation regarding how much scope an all line anchor rode required vs. chain/rode or all chain. More scope equates to more swing and this is not preventable unless you get into mult anchors. I had anchored a few times, then a big blow would come through. Yes my boat would swing/sailed at anchor. I would let out all the chain I had and put the snubber on. At 30 to 50 kts of wind my boat and all the other boats will swing/sail at anchor. I was more concerned about dragging. stu "Gordon" wrote in message ... How do all you cruisers keep your boats from walking all over the place when using brait or nylon at anchor? Chain lays on the bottom and pretty much holds you in one place but line lets a boat roam at will. How do you prevent that? Gordon -- Ask not for whom the terrorist bell tolls; it tolls for thee, and thee, and thee--for decent, innocent people everywhere. |
Anchor lines
West Indies wrote:
Gordan - does your question point to a specify boat or type of boat? Yes chain and chain/rode combo will dampen the boat's action but will not stop the swing at anchor unless its calm. Nothing wrong with all nylon if the rode is long enough and the bottom conditions will not damage the rode. Draw back to all chain, in a hard blow the chain has no give and will be violent when the boat is swinging/sailing around. Most cruisers with all chain will have a nylon snubber 10 to 15 feet which hooks into the chain and absorbs the shock. Swing at anchor is normal. Some boats swing more, some less. Some boats will have a steadying sail to keep them pointed into the wind. This sail can be a reefed mizzen sail or a small sail hooked to the backstay. If a boat swings too much, most likely there is not enough scope out. The length of rode out doesn't determine whether a boat swings or not, just how big an arc it will cover. If the boat has lots of windage forward (high bow, furler etc) then the bow wants to blow downwind. That is why riding sails work, they move the windage aft. Fin keels also tend to hunt more than boats with a deep forefoot. The difference between the chain and the rope rode is how much space you need for the sailing at anchor. A rope will drag all over the bottom even if the anchor is well set, a chain won't except in much stronger winds. Also the scope of rode out is much greater for rope than chain so you are going to be all over the anchorage. That is why the anchor gurus recommend you anchor in an area of the anchorage with boats with similar rode and swing characteristics. A chain rode boat beside a rope rode boat is gonna get nervous. I think your question is an observation regarding how much scope an all line anchor rode required vs. chain/rode or all chain. More scope equates to more swing and this is not preventable unless you get into mult anchors. I had anchored a few times, then a big blow would come through. Yes my boat would swing/sailed at anchor. I would let out all the chain I had and put the snubber on. At 30 to 50 kts of wind my boat and all the other boats will swing/sail at anchor. I was more concerned about dragging. Sailing and swinging at anchor can encourage dragging. It is best to figure out how to minimize swing so that no sideways loads come on the anchor. stu "Gordon" wrote in message ... How do all you cruisers keep your boats from walking all over the place when using brait or nylon at anchor? Chain lays on the bottom and pretty much holds you in one place but line lets a boat roam at will. How do you prevent that? Gordon -- Ask not for whom the terrorist bell tolls; it tolls for thee, and thee, and thee--for decent, innocent people everywhere. |
Anchor lines
Wayne.B wrote in
: I use chain. :-) Us, too! There's a whole "CHAIN LOCKER" full of it up under the windlass...(c; |
Anchor lines
I've got all chain also but it would be nice to get rid of 300+ # in the
bow. This is in a 32' Gulf pilothouse and the weight is enough to put the bow down a couple inches so rain water gathers on the deck inside of running out the aft scuppers at dock. Gordon. "Larry" wrote in message ... Wayne.B wrote in : I use chain. :-) Us, too! There's a whole "CHAIN LOCKER" full of it up under the windlass...(c; |
Anchor lines
"Gordon" wrote in message ... How do all you cruisers keep your boats from walking all over the place when using brait or nylon at anchor? Chain lays on the bottom and pretty much holds you in one place but line lets a boat roam at will. How do you prevent that? Gordon Bow and stern anchoring where swing radius is a concern. Bryan |
Anchor lines
"Gordon" wrote:
I've got all chain also but it would be nice to get rid of 300+ # in the bow. This is in a 32' Gulf pilothouse and the weight is enough to put the bow down a couple inches so rain water gathers on the deck inside of running out the aft scuppers at dock. Gordon. We've led ours down into the bilge Or you could just put some other heavy stuff aft. "Larry" wrote in message . .. Wayne.B wrote in : I use chain. :-) Us, too! There's a whole "CHAIN LOCKER" full of it up under the windlass...(c; grandma Rosalie |
Anchor lines
Gordon wrote:
I've got all chain also but it would be nice to get rid of 300+ # in the bow. This is in a 32' Gulf pilothouse and the weight is enough to put the bow down a couple inches so rain water gathers on the deck inside of running out the aft scuppers at dock. Gordon. "Larry" wrote in message ... Wayne.B wrote in m: I use chain. :-) Us, too! There's a whole "CHAIN LOCKER" full of it up under the windlass...(c; I have 280 feet of chain but the PO rigged the cable locker so there is a hawse pipe that leads down under the forward berth. The original cable locker (forward of the berth and higher) is now where the spare rode (rope with 20 feet of chain reside. The setup works very well and keeps the weight low and farther aft. The boat is a Truant 33 Pilothouse (similar to the Gulf) Gaz |
Anchor lines
Gordon wrote:
I've got all chain also but it would be nice to get rid of 300+ # in the bow. This is in a 32' Gulf pilothouse and the weight is enough to put the bow down a couple inches so rain water gathers on the deck inside of running out the aft scuppers at dock. Gordon. Are you sure you need all that chain? Where do you cruise? Do you have a powered windlass? My previous boat came with a lot of chain (90-100 feet), plus heavy nylon and a heavy anchor. After I downsized I was much happier. Now I don't hesitate to haul and reset the anchor. On my current boat I have an electric windlass, but I still feel better with only 50 feet of chain, which I can easily haul by hand. |
Anchor lines
"Gordon" wrote in
: I've got all chain also but it would be nice to get rid of 300+ # in the bow. This is in a 32' Gulf pilothouse and the weight is enough to put the bow down a couple inches so rain water gathers on the deck inside of running out the aft scuppers at dock. My captain solves this problem by moving "a few tools", actually more like a portable shipyard, a "little aft"...(c; She ain't fast, but she's solid.... |
Anchor lines
Gary wrote in news:wYDmf.85849$Gd6.46791
@pd7tw3no: I have 280 feet of chain but the PO rigged the cable locker so there is a hawse pipe that leads down under the forward berth. The original cable locker (forward of the berth and higher) is now where the spare rode (rope with 20 feet of chain reside. The setup works very well and keeps the weight low and farther aft. The boat is a Truant 33 Pilothouse (similar to the Gulf) In the Amel ketch, the chain locker is forward of the forward watertight bulkhead, at your feet in the vberth. It has a drain into the bilge, somewhere in the bottom of it because when you flush it it runs the bilge pump and water comes out the forward compartment shutoff valve from the 2nd watertight compartment, the head and v-berth forward of the salon's forward watertight bulkhead, so I'd think the chain goes very deep into the hull and piles up in the V of the bow down low. There are two huge lockers on either side of the anchor chain windlass that are very deep, deep enough so when you stand in them it's up to your thighs so all that chain must be stored down centerline very deep between them. Maybe, because it is so deep, it doesn't destabilize the trim up forward, being under the waterline or almost. |
Anchor lines
Jeff wrote in :
Are you sure you need all that chain? Yes, it's all chain and very handy in many situations Where do you cruise? Offshore from the Caribbean to Wilimington, NC, homeport is Charleston. Do you have a powered windlass? Yes, the Amel comes with a very heavy duty, one-way, single footswitch windlass. Taking it apart to grease it and inspect its brushes/commutator, I noted it has windings and hookups for both directions. The powered roller furler had been replaced by the first owner with a manual furler, leaving two 250A contactors with nothing to do in the v-berth port cabinet next to the single 250A contactor for this windlass. So, I rewired the windlass for dual directions and added another foot button switch for down as well as the original up haul. I commandeered one of the furler contactors to provide the other direction, pulling in extra wires from the windlass to it. Back in the center cockpit, the electric furler had a control on the console to wind the headsail in and out. That was commandeered to also power the now-bi-directional windlass by remote control from the helmsman's seat, both up and down. In a blow, in your skivvies, you can adjust the anchor chain rode from the comfort of the covered cockpit without going up forward to fight with the damnable windlass clutch to pay out more chain, now....really handy. One person can also singlehand the anchor in and out in badweather once the anchor is free of its safety lock for sea. This is nice when you're shorthanded. The chain has never jammed in either the bow roller, windlass' deep chain grooves or in the hawsepipe into the deep chain locker with all that chain pulling down on it through the hawsepipe, so this works very well. |
Anchor lines
On Sat, 10 Dec 2005 13:39:28 -0500, Larry wrote:
you can adjust the anchor chain rode from the comfort of the covered cockpit without going up forward to fight with the damnable windlass clutch to pay out more chain, now....really handy. ========================== Handy perhaps, but not really a good idea. Every windlass manufacturer that I know of recommends that the windlass be offloaded at anchor, either with a mechanical chain stopper or a hook line. Most serious cruisers that I know use a 10 to 20 nylon foot hook line to get some shock absorption at the same time. If you expose your windlass to shock loads and/or cyclic loading you will eventually damage the gear train or shaft seals. Damage the shaft seals and the gear train will follow. Either way, chain stopper or hook line, you've got to go forward to adjust the scope. |
Anchor lines
On Sat, 10 Dec 2005 16:38:28 GMT, "Bryan"
wrote: "Gordon" wrote in message .. . How do all you cruisers keep your boats from walking all over the place when using brait or nylon at anchor? Chain lays on the bottom and pretty much holds you in one place but line lets a boat roam at will. How do you prevent that? Gordon Bow and stern anchoring where swing radius is a concern. A bow and stern anchor is used to hold a bow into waves when wind and waves are from different angles. To reduce swing, use two anchors off the bow - either a Bahamian moor (anchors at 180 degree) or two anchors at 60 to 90 degrees. Or in a calm anchorage, a stern line to shore may be used. That is very common in our more popular West Coast anchorages; rings have attached to rocks and cliffs in many of the marine parks. When anchoring with chain and rope rode, ensure that you have adequate swing room. Jack _________________________________________ Jack Dale ISPA Yachtmaster Offshore Instructor CYA Advanced Cruising Instructor http://www.swiftsuresailing.com _________________________________________ |
Anchor lines
Larry wrote:
Jeff wrote in : Are you sure you need all that chain? Yes, it's all chain and very handy in many situations Well, I was asking Gordon. Since the Amel is over 50 feet and displaces about 20 tons, its not quite the same situation. Gordon was asking about 300 feet of chain. I've anchored all over the East Coast and can only think of a few places I've deployed more than 150 feet. Much of the time my 50 feet of chain on a nylon rode is effectively all chain with a snubber. Where do you cruise? Offshore from the Caribbean to Wilimington, NC, homeport is Charleston. Do you have a powered windlass? .... In a blow, in your skivvies, you can adjust the anchor chain rode from the comfort of the covered cockpit without going up forward to fight with the damnable windlass clutch to pay out more chain, now....really handy. Do you leave the chain in the windlass as your primary stopper? I didn't think that was recommended, especially in a blow. I always transfer the load to a cleat, but on my cat I use a bridle, so I don't do too many midnight adjustments. Even when I used all chain on a heavier monohull, I usually had a snubber. |
Anchor lines
wrote in message ... On Sat, 10 Dec 2005 16:38:28 GMT, "Bryan" wrote: "Gordon" wrote in message . .. How do all you cruisers keep your boats from walking all over the place when using brait or nylon at anchor? Chain lays on the bottom and pretty much holds you in one place but line lets a boat roam at will. How do you prevent that? Gordon Bow and stern anchoring where swing radius is a concern. A bow and stern anchor is used to hold a bow into waves when wind and waves are from different angles. To reduce swing, use two anchors off the bow - either a Bahamian moor (anchors at 180 degree) or two anchors at 60 to 90 degrees. Or in a calm anchorage, a stern line to shore may be used. That is very common in our more popular West Coast anchorages; rings have attached to rocks and cliffs in many of the marine parks. When anchoring with chain and rope rode, ensure that you have adequate swing room. Jack The two anchors off the bow creates cross-over potential, that is rodes crossing between boats. I would think that bow and stern in tight quarters eliminates the swing issue and reduces the potential of crossing lines/rodes. I've only used moorings, single anchor off the bow, and bow and stern anchoring. I've practiced the other options you've offered, but never used them. This thread is going to force me to grab my Annapolis Book of Seamanship and review the anchoring chapter! |
Anchor lines
Bryan wrote:
When anchoring with chain and rope rode, ensure that you have adequate swing room. Jack The two anchors off the bow creates cross-over potential, that is rodes crossing between boats. I would think that bow and stern in tight quarters eliminates the swing issue and reduces the potential of crossing lines/rodes. If you're in such close quarters as to risk fouling rodes with other boats, you had best be anchoring with the same technique as your neighbors. I've had some minor bumps but try to avoid situations where there is any risk of fouling. The only nasty that comes to mind I had all chain and my neighbor had about 200 feet of rope (in about 15 feet of water). When the wind shifted I stayed in essentially the same place, and he swung about 400 feet. I double anchor (with two forward) fairly frequently, but have never had a problem fouling, probably because its so easy to predict where you're going to end up. I've only used moorings, single anchor off the bow, and bow and stern anchoring. I've practiced the other options you've offered, but never used them. This thread is going to force me to grab my Annapolis Book of Seamanship and review the anchoring chapter! If you really want to learn, get the book by Hinz. And talk to people who have used a variety of techniques. |
Anchor lines
On Sat, 10 Dec 2005 16:38:28 GMT, "Bryan"
wrote: Bow and stern anchoring where swing radius is a concern. ============================================== This is usually a bad idea unless EVERYONE else near you is doing exactly the same thing. Unequal swing radius is a big problem in tight anchorages even with everyone on single anchors. |
Anchor lines
In article ,
Bryan wrote: The two anchors off the bow creates cross-over potential, that is rodes crossing between boats. I would think that bow and stern in tight quarters eliminates the swing issue and reduces the potential of crossing lines/rodes. I've only used moorings, single anchor off the bow, and bow and stern anchoring. I've practiced the other options you've offered, but never used them. This thread is going to force me to grab my Annapolis Book of Seamanship and review the anchoring chapter! Good idea! :-) Actually, there are several two-anchor-off-the-bow methods... 45 deg angle, one in front of the other, for example. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
Anchor lines
In article ,
Bryan wrote: The two anchors off the bow creates cross-over potential, that is rodes crossing between boats. I would think that bow and stern in tight quarters eliminates the swing issue and reduces the potential of crossing lines/rodes. I've only used moorings, single anchor off the bow, and bow and stern anchoring. I've practiced the other options you've offered, but never used them. This thread is going to force me to grab my Annapolis Book of Seamanship and review the anchoring chapter! And, you might be in a situation when bow/stern won't do what you want. For example, if other people have only one or multiple bow anchors out. Your neighbor would swing into you. The best rule of thumb is to follow the lead if you're not there first. If you are there first, you get to set the precedence, assuming you know what you're doing of course. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
Anchor lines
In article ,
Jeff wrote: If you're in such close quarters as to risk fouling rodes with other boats, you had best be anchoring with the same technique as your neighbors. I've had some minor bumps but try to avoid situations where there is any risk of fouling. The only nasty that comes to mind I had all chain and my neighbor had about 200 feet of rope (in about 15 feet of water). When the wind shifted I stayed in essentially the same place, and he swung about 400 feet. I double anchor (with two forward) fairly frequently, but have never had a problem fouling, probably because its so easy to predict where you're going to end up. What Jeff said. Most of the time, you get fouled on other people's crap or they on yours. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
Anchor lines
Jeff wrote in :
Well, I was asking Gordon. Since the Amel is over 50 feet and displaces about 20 tons, its not quite the same situation. Naw...we dream of the big Mari, but this boat is a Sharki 41 (39 if the marina people are askin'...(c;). They measured it. It's not that big....just well made. |
Anchor lines
"Jeff" wrote in message ... Bryan wrote: I double anchor (with two forward) fairly frequently, but have never had a problem fouling, probably because its so easy to predict where you're going to end up. I've only used moorings, single anchor off the bow, and bow and stern anchoring. I've practiced the other options you've offered, but never used them. This thread is going to force me to grab my Annapolis Book of Seamanship and review the anchoring chapter! If you really want to learn, get the book by Hinz. And talk to people who have used a variety of techniques. If I really want to learn, I need to win the lottery, quit my job, get a new wife, and send my kids off to college, so that I can spend more time, lots more time, on the water! Right now, my sailing, that requires anchoring, is limited to Catalina Island (bow and stern) and Isla Coronado (single bow). Bryan |
Anchor lines
"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message ... In article , Bryan wrote: The two anchors off the bow creates cross-over potential, that is rodes crossing between boats. I would think that bow and stern in tight quarters eliminates the swing issue and reduces the potential of crossing lines/rodes. I've only used moorings, single anchor off the bow, and bow and stern anchoring. I've practiced the other options you've offered, but never used them. This thread is going to force me to grab my Annapolis Book of Seamanship and review the anchoring chapter! And, you might be in a situation when bow/stern won't do what you want. For example, if other people have only one or multiple bow anchors out. Your neighbor would swing into you. The best rule of thumb is to follow the lead if you're not there first. If you are there first, you get to set the precedence, assuming you know what you're doing of course. I'm familiar with other anchoring techniques and have practiced them, but have never been in a setting requiring their execution. One of my anchorages, swing is not an issue, the other, bow and stern is the custom. Bryan |
Anchor lines
Bryan wrote:
And, you might be in a situation when bow/stern won't do what you want. For example, if other people have only one or multiple bow anchors out. Your neighbor would swing into you. The best rule of thumb is to follow the lead if you're not there first. If you are there first, you get to set the precedence, assuming you know what you're doing of course. I'm familiar with other anchoring techniques and have practiced them, but have never been in a setting requiring their execution. One of my anchorages, swing is not an issue, the other, bow and stern is the custom. I sailed for many years before I started double anchoring. For some reason, I thought it was overly complicated. Then I cruised in the company of an old friend who saw me dragging a bit in soft mud. He yelled over, "just power over there and throw out your Danforth - you'll sleep a lot better." Ever since then I've kept a Fortress on deck to use whenever I thought I might worry at 2AM. |
Anchor lines
In article ,
Bryan wrote: I'm familiar with other anchoring techniques and have practiced them, but have never been in a setting requiring their execution. One of my anchorages, swing is not an issue, the other, bow and stern is the custom. In that case, you need to get out more. :-) Bow/stern isn't that common. For example, if the current is bow/stern and the wind comes around to 90, then it can make for a rough ride. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
Anchor lines
In article ,
Bryan wrote: If I really want to learn, I need to win the lottery, quit my job, get a new wife, and send my kids off to college, so that I can spend more time, lots more time, on the water! Can't be that bad... you can get to Catalina... nice place. Right now, my sailing, that requires anchoring, is limited to Catalina Island (bow and stern) and Isla Coronado (single bow). -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
Anchor lines
|
Anchor lines
"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message ... In article , Bryan wrote: If I really want to learn, I need to win the lottery, quit my job, get a new wife, and send my kids off to college, so that I can spend more time, lots more time, on the water! Can't be that bad... you can get to Catalina... nice place. Right now, my sailing, that requires anchoring, is limited to Catalina Island (bow and stern) and Isla Coronado (single bow). -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com Once a year. What a great destination if done right. It's my favorite getaway. Don't tell anybody; I want to keep Catalina a secret. My next challenge is to get there in an 18 foot runabout instead of my usual 30 to 40 foot sailboat. Bryan |
Anchor lines
"Jeff" wrote in message ... Bryan wrote: I'm familiar with other anchoring techniques and have practiced them, but have never been in a setting requiring their execution. One of my anchorages, swing is not an issue, the other, bow and stern is the custom. I sailed for many years before I started double anchoring. For some reason, I thought it was overly complicated. Then I cruised in the company of an old friend who saw me dragging a bit in soft mud. He yelled over, "just power over there and throw out your Danforth - you'll sleep a lot better." Ever since then I've kept a Fortress on deck to use whenever I thought I might worry at 2AM. I might try the 2 off the bow next time I overnight at Isla Coronado. I don't need to; it's an uncrowded anchorage with plenty of swing room and no current or wind shift concerns. However, it is a 30 foot depth so I am maxed out on scope. Maybe I'll sleep better with 2 anchors down. Bryan |
Anchor lines
"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message ... In article , Bryan wrote: I'm familiar with other anchoring techniques and have practiced them, but have never been in a setting requiring their execution. One of my anchorages, swing is not an issue, the other, bow and stern is the custom. In that case, you need to get out more. :-) Bow/stern isn't that common. For example, if the current is bow/stern and the wind comes around to 90, then it can make for a rough ride. And that is exactly what my books tell me the swing option (2 off the bow) is good for! Bryan |
Anchor lines
"Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On 10 Dec 2005 20:24:09 -0800, lid (Jonathan Ganz) wrote: In that case, you need to get out more. :-) Bow/stern isn't that common. ======================================== I have not cruised off the California coast but could see a need for keeping your bow into the swell in some anchorages. Being sideways to the swell is not a fun place to be. I don't know the history behind bow and stern at my bow and stern anchorage, but I think it has much to do with squeezing in as many boats as possible into limited space. There are the wind shift factors as well, but I don't know, I just don't know. Bryan |
Anchor lines
In article ,
Bryan wrote: "Wayne.B" wrote in message .. . On 10 Dec 2005 20:24:09 -0800, lid (Jonathan Ganz) wrote: In that case, you need to get out more. :-) Bow/stern isn't that common. ======================================== I have not cruised off the California coast but could see a need for keeping your bow into the swell in some anchorages. Being sideways to the swell is not a fun place to be. I don't know the history behind bow and stern at my bow and stern anchorage, but I think it has much to do with squeezing in as many boats as possible into limited space. There are the wind shift factors as well, but I don't know, I just don't know. I did this once in exactly that situation down in Marina Cay, BVI. We got in late, there was no mooring, and anchoring outside the immediate mooring area was not viable. I did a bow/stern between two other boats in the same situation. The wind picked up on the beam, and it was fairly unpleasant. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
Anchor lines
In article ,
Bryan wrote: Right now, my sailing, that requires anchoring, is limited to Catalina Island (bow and stern) and Isla Coronado (single bow). Once a year. What a great destination if done right. It's my favorite getaway. Don't tell anybody; I want to keep Catalina a secret. My next challenge is to get there in an 18 foot runabout instead of my usual 30 to 40 foot sailboat. Bryan Where do you start from? I've sailed out of Long Beach and Dana Point, but we never did the crossing. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
Anchor lines
Bryan wrote:
I might try the 2 off the bow next time I overnight at Isla Coronado. I don't need to; it's an uncrowded anchorage with plenty of swing room and no current or wind shift concerns. However, it is a 30 foot depth so I am maxed out on scope. Maybe I'll sleep better with 2 anchors down. I was about to say that 300 feet was a lot of chain to put down for 30 feet unless you're very exposed. But I thought I'd look at a chart first - that certainly looks like like its totally exposed with a ten mile fetch to the mainland. This would be considered a pretty marginal anchorage here in New England. We have a few such destinations, Mohegan, Isle of Shoals, etc., but for the most part, its easy to find good protection. Of course, the really nice places closer to Boston are saturated with moorings. Still, if you're not happy carrying 300 feet of chain, I would suggest that you could get by with 50 feet of chain and 300 feet of nylon. The holding power will be just about the same, and in fact you'll be better able to feel when the hook is set firmly. If you like the extra weight of chain, you can strap some diver's weights on the rode and slide them down about 40 feet. BTW, what kind of anchor do you use, and do you have a windlass? |
Anchor lines
"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message ... In article , Bryan wrote: Right now, my sailing, that requires anchoring, is limited to Catalina Island (bow and stern) and Isla Coronado (single bow). Once a year. What a great destination if done right. It's my favorite getaway. Don't tell anybody; I want to keep Catalina a secret. My next challenge is to get there in an 18 foot runabout instead of the usual 30 to 40 foot sailboat. Bryan Where do you start from? I've sailed out of Long Beach and Dana Point, but we never did the crossing. I've sailed out of Long Beach and Marina Del Rey in the sailboats. When I try the crossing in the runabout I'll either leave from the Long Beach ramp or the one next to Seal Beach. Although I'll sail to Catalina in any conditions found in the summer, I will avoid sailing there during a Santa Ana condition. With the runabout I'll cancel my Catalina plans and head for a lake if the conditions aren't perfect. What do you sail? Email me (there's only one real dot in my address) if you want my personal favorite Catalina itinerary. Bryan |
Anchor lines
"Jeff" wrote in message . .. Bryan wrote: I might try the 2 off the bow next time I overnight at Isla Coronado. I don't need to; it's an uncrowded anchorage with plenty of swing room and no current or wind shift concerns. However, it is a 30 foot depth so I am maxed out on scope. Maybe I'll sleep better with 2 anchors down. I was about to say that 300 feet was a lot of chain to put down for 30 feet unless you're very exposed. But I thought I'd look at a chart first - that certainly looks like like its totally exposed with a ten mile fetch to the mainland. This would be considered a pretty marginal anchorage here in New England. We have a few such destinations, Mohegan, Isle of Shoals, etc., but for the most part, its easy to find good protection. Of course, the really nice places closer to Boston are saturated with moorings. Still, if you're not happy carrying 300 feet of chain, I would suggest that you could get by with 50 feet of chain and 300 feet of nylon. The holding power will be just about the same, and in fact you'll be better able to feel when the hook is set firmly. If you like the extra weight of chain, you can strap some diver's weights on the rode and slide them down about 40 feet. BTW, what kind of anchor do you use, and do you have a windlass? The ground tackle is a Danforth anchor, 30 feet of chain, 250 feet of nylon. No windlass. I aim for a 7:1 scope so 30 feet at high tide is the max depth I'll anchor in. At Catalina I aim for a spot with 20 feet depth so I can let out more rode if needed. I'm a fair weather anchorer, so I'll be on a mooring if conditions aren't near perfect or I won't go. And you're right my most common anchorages are not textbook perfect. I don't know where the idea of 300 feet of chain came from (but it wouldn't be on the boat I'm sailing). Bryan |
Anchor lines
Harry,
rec.boats.cruising really does not need your feeble attempts to insult Larry. You are nothing more than a little gnat buzzing around Larry. "Harry Krause" wrote in message ... Larry wrote: Jeff wrote in : Well, I was asking Gordon. Since the Amel is over 50 feet and displaces about 20 tons, its not quite the same situation. Naw...we dream of the big Mari, but this boat is a Sharki 41 (39 if the marina people are askin'...(c;). They measured it. It's not that big....just well made. I had no idea you traded that jetski boat for a cruising sailboat. Congrats. -- Pro-war is not pro-life! |
Anchor lines
Bryan wrote:
"Jeff" wrote in message . .. Bryan wrote: I might try the 2 off the bow next time I overnight at Isla Coronado. I don't need to; it's an uncrowded anchorage with plenty of swing room and no current or wind shift concerns. However, it is a 30 foot depth so I am maxed out on scope. Maybe I'll sleep better with 2 anchors down. I was about to say that 300 feet was a lot of chain to put down for 30 feet unless you're very exposed. But I thought I'd look at a chart first - that certainly looks like like its totally exposed with a ten mile fetch to the mainland. This would be considered a pretty marginal anchorage here in New England. We have a few such destinations, Mohegan, Isle of Shoals, etc., but for the most part, its easy to find good protection. Of course, the really nice places closer to Boston are saturated with moorings. Still, if you're not happy carrying 300 feet of chain, I would suggest that you could get by with 50 feet of chain and 300 feet of nylon. The holding power will be just about the same, and in fact you'll be better able to feel when the hook is set firmly. If you like the extra weight of chain, you can strap some diver's weights on the rode and slide them down about 40 feet. BTW, what kind of anchor do you use, and do you have a windlass? The ground tackle is a Danforth anchor, 30 feet of chain, 250 feet of nylon. No windlass. I aim for a 7:1 scope so 30 feet at high tide is the max depth I'll anchor in. At Catalina I aim for a spot with 20 feet depth so I can let out more rode if needed. I'm a fair weather anchorer, so I'll be on a mooring if conditions aren't near perfect or I won't go. And you're right my most common anchorages are not textbook perfect. I don't know where the idea of 300 feet of chain came from (but it wouldn't be on the boat I'm sailing). Bryan With a rope rode 7:1 is not uncommon, with a chain rode 5:1 is the norm. 300 feet of chain let you drop the pick in depths up to 60 feet, not uncommon in the Pacific MW. In fact, recent studies have show that at extreme depths (80 to 100 feet) the same 300 feet of rode will hold fine at 3:1 ratio. You do need a healthy windlass and it does give one some exercise (I have a manual windlass). |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:38 PM. |
|
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 BoatBanter.com