"Gordon" wrote in
:

I've got all chain also but it would be nice to get rid of 300+ #
in the
bow. This is in a 32' Gulf pilothouse and the weight is enough to put
the bow down a couple inches so rain water gathers on the deck inside
of running out the aft scuppers at dock.


My captain solves this problem by moving "a few tools", actually more
like a portable shipyard, a "little aft"...(c;

She ain't fast, but she's solid....

Gary wrote in news:wYDmf.85849$Gd6.46791
@pd7tw3no:

I have 280 feet of chain but the PO rigged the cable locker so there is
a hawse pipe that leads down under the forward berth. The original
cable locker (forward of the berth and higher) is now where the spare
rode (rope with 20 feet of chain reside. The setup works very well and
keeps the weight low and farther aft.
The boat is a Truant 33 Pilothouse (similar to the Gulf)



In the Amel ketch, the chain locker is forward of the forward watertight
bulkhead, at your feet in the vberth. It has a drain into the bilge,
somewhere in the bottom of it because when you flush it it runs the bilge
pump and water comes out the forward compartment shutoff valve from the
2nd watertight compartment, the head and v-berth forward of the salon's
forward watertight bulkhead, so I'd think the chain goes very deep into
the hull and piles up in the V of the bow down low. There are two huge
lockers on either side of the anchor chain windlass that are very deep,
deep enough so when you stand in them it's up to your thighs so all that
chain must be stored down centerline very deep between them.

Maybe, because it is so deep, it doesn't destabilize the trim up forward,
being under the waterline or almost.

Jeff wrote in news
Are you sure you need all that chain?

Yes, it's all chain and very handy in many situations

Where do you cruise?

Offshore from the Caribbean to Wilimington, NC, homeport is Charleston.

Do you have a powered windlass?

Yes, the Amel comes with a very heavy duty, one-way, single footswitch
windlass. Taking it apart to grease it and inspect its brushes/commutator,
I noted it has windings and hookups for both directions. The powered
roller furler had been replaced by the first owner with a manual furler,
leaving two 250A contactors with nothing to do in the v-berth port cabinet
next to the single 250A contactor for this windlass. So, I rewired the
windlass for dual directions and added another foot button switch for down
as well as the original up haul. I commandeered one of the furler
contactors to provide the other direction, pulling in extra wires from the
windlass to it.

Back in the center cockpit, the electric furler had a control on the
console to wind the headsail in and out. That was commandeered to also
power the now-bi-directional windlass by remote control from the helmsman's
seat, both up and down. In a blow, in your skivvies, you can adjust the
anchor chain rode from the comfort of the covered cockpit without going up
forward to fight with the damnable windlass clutch to pay out more chain,
now....really handy. One person can also singlehand the anchor in and out
in badweather once the anchor is free of its safety lock for sea. This is
nice when you're shorthanded. The chain has never jammed in either the bow
roller, windlass' deep chain grooves or in the hawsepipe into the deep
chain locker with all that chain pulling down on it through the hawsepipe,
so this works very well.

On Sat, 10 Dec 2005 13:39:28 -0500, Larry wrote:

you can adjust the
anchor chain rode from the comfort of the covered cockpit without going up
forward to fight with the damnable windlass clutch to pay out more chain,
now....really handy.

==========================

Handy perhaps, but not really a good idea. Every windlass
manufacturer that I know of recommends that the windlass be offloaded
at anchor, either with a mechanical chain stopper or a hook line.
Most serious cruisers that I know use a 10 to 20 nylon foot hook line
to get some shock absorption at the same time.

If you expose your windlass to shock loads and/or cyclic loading you
will eventually damage the gear train or shaft seals. Damage the
shaft seals and the gear train will follow.

Either way, chain stopper or hook line, you've got to go forward to
adjust the scope.

On Sat, 10 Dec 2005 16:38:28 GMT, "Bryan"
wrote:


"Gordon" wrote in message
.. .
How do all you cruisers keep your boats from walking all over the place
when using brait or nylon at anchor? Chain lays on the bottom and pretty
much holds you in one place but line lets a boat roam at will. How do you
prevent that?
Gordon

Bow and stern anchoring where swing radius is a concern.

A bow and stern anchor is used to hold a bow into waves when wind and
waves are from different angles. To reduce swing, use two anchors off
the bow - either a Bahamian moor (anchors at 180 degree) or two
anchors at 60 to 90 degrees. Or in a calm anchorage, a stern line to
shore may be used. That is very common in our more popular West Coast
anchorages; rings have attached to rocks and cliffs in many of the
marine parks.

When anchoring with chain and rope rode, ensure that you have adequate
swing room.

Jack

_________________________________________
Jack Dale
ISPA Yachtmaster Offshore Instructor
CYA Advanced Cruising Instructor
http://www.swiftsuresailing.com
_________________________________________

Larry wrote:
Jeff wrote in news

Are you sure you need all that chain?


Yes, it's all chain and very handy in many situations

Well, I was asking Gordon. Since the Amel is over 50 feet and
displaces about 20 tons, its not quite the same situation.

Gordon was asking about 300 feet of chain. I've anchored all over the
East Coast and can only think of a few places I've deployed more than
150 feet. Much of the time my 50 feet of chain on a nylon rode is
effectively all chain with a snubber.

Where do you cruise?

Offshore from the Caribbean to Wilimington, NC, homeport is Charleston.

Do you have a powered windlass?

....
In a blow, in your skivvies, you can adjust the
anchor chain rode from the comfort of the covered cockpit without going up
forward to fight with the damnable windlass clutch to pay out more chain,
now....really handy.

Do you leave the chain in the windlass as your primary stopper? I
didn't think that was recommended, especially in a blow. I always
transfer the load to a cleat, but on my cat I use a bridle, so I don't
do too many midnight adjustments. Even when I used all chain on a
heavier monohull, I usually had a snubber.

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 10 Dec 2005 16:38:28 GMT, "Bryan"
wrote:


"Gordon" wrote in message
. ..
How do all you cruisers keep your boats from walking all over the place
when using brait or nylon at anchor? Chain lays on the bottom and pretty
much holds you in one place but line lets a boat roam at will. How do
you
prevent that?
Gordon

Bow and stern anchoring where swing radius is a concern.

A bow and stern anchor is used to hold a bow into waves when wind and
waves are from different angles. To reduce swing, use two anchors off
the bow - either a Bahamian moor (anchors at 180 degree) or two
anchors at 60 to 90 degrees. Or in a calm anchorage, a stern line to
shore may be used. That is very common in our more popular West Coast
anchorages; rings have attached to rocks and cliffs in many of the
marine parks.

When anchoring with chain and rope rode, ensure that you have adequate
swing room.

Jack

The two anchors off the bow creates cross-over potential, that is rodes
crossing between boats. I would think that bow and stern in tight quarters
eliminates the swing issue and reduces the potential of crossing
lines/rodes.

I've only used moorings, single anchor off the bow, and bow and stern
anchoring. I've practiced the other options you've offered, but never used
them.

This thread is going to force me to grab my Annapolis Book of Seamanship and
review the anchoring chapter!

Bryan wrote:
When anchoring with chain and rope rode, ensure that you have adequate
swing room.

Jack


The two anchors off the bow creates cross-over potential, that is rodes
crossing between boats. I would think that bow and stern in tight quarters
eliminates the swing issue and reduces the potential of crossing
lines/rodes.


If you're in such close quarters as to risk fouling rodes with other
boats, you had best be anchoring with the same technique as your
neighbors. I've had some minor bumps but try to avoid situations
where there is any risk of fouling. The only nasty that comes to mind
I had all chain and my neighbor had about 200 feet of rope (in about
15 feet of water). When the wind shifted I stayed in essentially the
same place, and he swung about 400 feet.

I double anchor (with two forward) fairly frequently, but have never
had a problem fouling, probably because its so easy to predict where
you're going to end up.


I've only used moorings, single anchor off the bow, and bow and stern
anchoring. I've practiced the other options you've offered, but never used
them.

This thread is going to force me to grab my Annapolis Book of Seamanship and
review the anchoring chapter!

If you really want to learn, get the book by Hinz. And talk to people
who have used a variety of techniques.

On Sat, 10 Dec 2005 16:38:28 GMT, "Bryan"
wrote:

Bow and stern anchoring where swing radius is a concern.

==============================================

This is usually a bad idea unless EVERYONE else near you is doing
exactly the same thing.

Unequal swing radius is a big problem in tight anchorages even with
everyone on single anchors.

In article ,
Bryan wrote:
The two anchors off the bow creates cross-over potential, that is rodes
crossing between boats. I would think that bow and stern in tight quarters
eliminates the swing issue and reduces the potential of crossing
lines/rodes.

I've only used moorings, single anchor off the bow, and bow and stern
anchoring. I've practiced the other options you've offered, but never used
them.

This thread is going to force me to grab my Annapolis Book of Seamanship and
review the anchoring chapter!


Good idea! :-)

Actually, there are several two-anchor-off-the-bow methods... 45 deg
angle, one in front of the other, for example.



--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com