All I got was this;

Hmmm, We Can't Find that Page...

The page you're looking for might have been moved or deleted. Or,
perhaps the Web address is misspelled?




wrote in message
oups.com...
I've managed to load two pics of the damaged area at

http://groups.msn.com/LysanderSailer...msnw?Page=Last

Graeme

On Wed, 26 Oct 2005 22:16:01 GMT, "Scotty"
wrote:

All I got was this;

Hmmm, We Can't Find that Page...

The page you're looking for might have been moved or deleted. Or,
perhaps the Web address is misspelled?

It worked fine for me...
The pictures were a bit blurred but it seems the part that is
connected (mastfoot?) could be drilled loose and you could a) use
slightly bigger (thicker) rivets on the old places and b) drill a new
hole next to the one ripped open.

In the yahoo group I mentioned earlier there is a discussion going on
about modern powerful adhesives. Maybe you can overcome the "fear for
the unknown" that I feel too to use this product on a critical spot.
I copied the last message.
source: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rebuiltaluminumboat/

Luck,
Len
S/v Present

----------------------------------------
Hello John,
I sell Body Shop Supplies, and I know of a Very Good Adhesive you can
use to bond ANY thing together with. The part number is 08115 Panel
Bonding Adhesive it's about $32.00 , you have to have the gun to use
this product. Many different makers of this gun are out there.The
cheepest gun I know of is about $40.00 made by Shopware
www.shopwareinc.net . 08115 is a two part adhhesive that is mixed by
placing in the gun, kinda like a caulking gun. 3M also makes some
other great adhesives in this same line "Automix". 08115 has a work
time of 90 minutes, Handling time of 4 hours, and cure time of 24
hours. All times can be accelerrated with heat. We use this product in
place of welding now days. Scary to think your car is glued
together........ Most new cars have plastic or aluminum or very thin
sheet metal for fenders and doors skins.
I glued a cow skill to the side of the barn 5 years ago and you can
hang off of it if you wanted to.
Hope this helps.
Tod
---------------------------------------------

Len wrote:
It worked fine for me...
The pictures were a bit blurred but it seems the part that is
connected (mastfoot?) could be drilled loose and you could a) use
slightly bigger (thicker) rivets on the old places and b) drill a new
hole next to the one ripped open.

After looking at the damage, I'd be concerned about the end of the mast
opening up slightly and coming off the step on the edge of the mast foot
casting. If this starts to happen, total failure could occur in a
very short time with the mast wall peeling back as it is forced over the
foot like peeling a banana. How far it will go and is the rig going to
stay up are the critical questions. I'd NOT be happy with just
re-riviting it.

You cannot effectively weld many grades of cast aluminium. If you are
going to have this welded, ONLY GET THE CRACKS WELDED. The foot casting
should still be fitted with rivits. The damaged area should be sleeved
with a rivited on sheet of aluminium on the outside extending a couple
of inches up the mast and the new holes for the foot drilled through
this and the mast wall. This will prevent it spreading as described
above. To shape aluminium sheet to fit, it will have to be annealed.
Ideally it would be heat treated to harden it before riviting it in
place but some alloys age harden to a fair extent at room temperature.
Best talk to a rigger. If you DIY this, you NEED to use Duralac on the
rivits and all surfaces in contact unless you are using a structural
adhesive.

If you have enough thread left on your turnbuckles to take up half an
inch and still have plenty of range for adjustment, cut off the damage
and have done with it. I would only raise the tabernackle as a last
resort.

--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & 32K emails -- NUL:
'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Early 60's, Uffa Fox designed,
All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy.