I like your approach. However, Since I ended up with a broken crankshaft
on the 1 GM I am still apprehensive of buying used 2GM.
You are saying that the shipping cost you nearly $1000.00 USD can you tell
the cost of the engine. I starting to believe that (as you have stated)
replacing a diesel engine is overrated in terms of difficulty and cost.
The situation in this neck of the wood is that few people know about diesel
engine.
They seldom breakdown and when they do we have to call an experience
mechanic.
Here our diesel mechanics are very busy and do not come exactly after you
call them.
As in Seinfeld "the soup nazi" we here have the opposite for diesel engine
repair.

wrote in message
oups.com...
My 28' S2 came with a Yanmar 1GM but it was an older one with only 6.5
hp output. Although it was the most reliable engine I had ever seen
and ALWAYS started, I had been in a couple spots where I was concerned
about not having enough power. I looked all over the internet for
about a year and finally found a used Yanmar 2GM that was being sold.
I took the chance that either it was in good shape or I could rebuild
it and bought it and shipped it here. It was in Seattle and I am in
Florida so shipping cost nearly $1000.
One it was here, I started it and checked it out and it seemed in good
shape. Rated at 13 hp with a heast exchanger for cooling it looked to
be a good direct replacement for the 1GM after looking over the
pyhiscal dimensions in the service manual.
The boat was up on jack stands in my back yard with no way to get any
sort of hoist around the boat to remove the old or put in a new engine.
Nevertheless, I was amazed at how easy it was to remove the old
engine. In no time at all, I had it sitting in the cabin looking
surprised wondering how I managed to do it by myself.
I enlisted two friends to get the old engine to the ground and the new
one in the boat. We put a ladder against the boat and manhandled the
old engine up into teh cockpit and up onto the cockpit sides. We tied
a rope to it and slid it down against 2x4s placed against the ladder.
The much heavier new engine was bolted to a piece of plywood and then
using a rope around one of the winches we pulled it up into teh
cockpit. From there we slid it on 2x4s into teh cabin. I then slid it
back into the 1/4 berth and then down into place by myself. IT DIDNT
FIT. The new engine mounts were too thick. The hardest part of the
entire operation was for me to use my sabre saw to cut through the wood
and glass engine mounts to make it fit. I went through 8 saw blades.
It lined up very well although I did use a feeler guage. It started
and ran well but soon stopped pumping raw water from a 5 gal bucket I
had in the cabin. Finally, I traced the problem to a buildup of salt
and corrosion in the output of the heat exchanger and fixed it.
I am very happy with my new (old) engine and have extensively cruised
with it. My boat now gets up to over 6 kts easily whereas before I was
lucky to get over 5 kts. This has really improved my cruising ability
because I can go for days running at 5 kts when ther is no wind.
My experience seems to show that replacing an engine may be overrated
in terms of difficulty and cost. BTW, I am no mechanic, just stubborn.

I got the engine for $2000 "as is" and it turned out to be in good
shape although I expected it to be worse.
When I sold the 1 GM, I really didnt know what it was worth and didnt
want oto hassle with people getting it and then for one reason or
another being unhappy so I advetised it on the internet for $450. My
phone rang like crazy and a guy drove all the way from New Orleans (450
miles) to get it.
Maybe I just got lucky.
We also have no diesel repair places nearby so I expected to have to
sorta "shade tree" it . Its only a diesel, not rocket science. (Gawd,
how many times have I said stuff like that and been wrong)

Thanks for the information.
I'll search the net for one used 2 GM.


wrote in message
oups.com...
I got the engine for $2000 "as is" and it turned out to be in good
shape although I expected it to be worse.
When I sold the 1 GM, I really didnt know what it was worth and didnt
want oto hassle with people getting it and then for one reason or
another being unhappy so I advetised it on the internet for $450. My
phone rang like crazy and a guy drove all the way from New Orleans (450
miles) to get it.
Maybe I just got lucky.
We also have no diesel repair places nearby so I expected to have to
sorta "shade tree" it . Its only a diesel, not rocket science. (Gawd,
how many times have I said stuff like that and been wrong)

On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 16:07:59 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

Thanks for the information.
I'll search the net for one used 2 GM.

The 2 GM is "fresh water cooled" and the 1GM is raw water cooled...

fresh water cooled = closed cooling system, heat exchange system

raw water cooled = lake or sea water cooled and usually engine temp is
cooler

Mic wrote:
On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 16:07:59 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:


Thanks for the information.
I'll search the net for one used 2 GM.


The 2 GM is "fresh water cooled" and the 1GM is raw water cooled...

I believe both fresh and raw versions of both were built. Its true
that most 1GM's are raw, but the 2GM has many of both types. The
engine name has an "F" in it (as in 2GM20F) it is fresh water cooled,
i.e. it has a heat exchanger.

Correct, the earlier 2 GM are raw water cool.
Both of my friend have 1982 Yanmar 2 GM that are raw water cool.
BTW. my raw water cool 1982, 1 GM Yanmar was used in sea water all these
years. That is from May to October of every year and winterized with
antifreeze. Now it is completely disassemble and it does not show signs of
rust damages.
The yearly replacement of the internal zinc anodes in the engine and on the
propeller shaft may have something to do with it.
The Yanmar International Rep. stated that the 1 GM raw water cool Yanmar
(6.5 HP) was introduced for use in fresh water mainly the great Lakes. The
more recent 10 GM Yanmar is designed to produce 10 HP at 3300 RPM's.
Correct me if I am wrong but I hear that this 10 GM may be on its way out to
be replaced by the new fresh water cool Yanmar 2YM15 producing 13 HP at 3400
RPM's. Other manufacturers are rating their engine at 3000 RPM. Westerbeke
are rating their 12 C, 12 HP at 3000 RPM.

"Jeff" wrote in message
...
Mic wrote:
On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 16:07:59 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:


Thanks for the information.
I'll search the net for one used 2 GM.


The 2 GM is "fresh water cooled" and the 1GM is raw water cooled...

I believe both fresh and raw versions of both were built. Its true
that most 1GM's are raw, but the 2GM has many of both types. The
engine name has an "F" in it (as in 2GM20F) it is fresh water cooled,
i.e. it has a heat exchanger.

Interesting, I always wondered why they made such a small engine for
use on boats of this size.

It seems like the YM's are destined to replace all of the GM's, but I
think the 1GM is still being sold.

The GM and YM series (and others) are rated at or about 3600 RPM.
I've always felt that 3000 is a reasonable cruising rev for my 2GM's,
but a friend who repowered with a 3YM says that everyone has told him
to run all day at 3400 to 3600.


Denis Marier wrote:
Correct, the earlier 2 GM are raw water cool.
Both of my friend have 1982 Yanmar 2 GM that are raw water cool.
BTW. my raw water cool 1982, 1 GM Yanmar was used in sea water all these
years. That is from May to October of every year and winterized with
antifreeze. Now it is completely disassemble and it does not show signs of
rust damages.
The yearly replacement of the internal zinc anodes in the engine and on the
propeller shaft may have something to do with it.
The Yanmar International Rep. stated that the 1 GM raw water cool Yanmar
(6.5 HP) was introduced for use in fresh water mainly the great Lakes. The
more recent 10 GM Yanmar is designed to produce 10 HP at 3300 RPM's.
Correct me if I am wrong but I hear that this 10 GM may be on its way out to
be replaced by the new fresh water cool Yanmar 2YM15 producing 13 HP at 3400
RPM's. Other manufacturers are rating their engine at 3000 RPM. Westerbeke
are rating their 12 C, 12 HP at 3000 RPM.

wrote:
I got the engine for $2000 "as is" and it turned out to be in good
shape although I expected it to be worse.
When I sold the 1 GM, I really didnt know what it was worth and didnt
want oto hassle with people getting it and then for one reason or
another being unhappy so I advetised it on the internet for $450. My
phone rang like crazy and a guy drove all the way from New Orleans (450
miles) to get it.
Maybe I just got lucky.
We also have no diesel repair places nearby so I expected to have to
sorta "shade tree" it . Its only a diesel, not rocket science. (Gawd,
how many times have I said stuff like that and been wrong)

My story:

I picked up a used 3GM30 for $2700 USD. It had about 500
hours on it and I got to see it running in the boat with my
mechanic present. It ran well.

The owner said he was selling it because it didn't develop
enough power for the boat and had already ordered the next
size up Yanmar.

My mechanic asks the owner what RPM he runs it at? "Oh,
about 22-2300 RPM. I don't like to stress the engine". My
mechanic replies, "But with these engines you have to run
them at closer to 3000 RPM to develop enough power". I'm
ready to STRANGLE my guy so he doesn't screw the deal up.

I installled it this summer, on a catamaran that had only
outboards. It took about a week of part time effort (lots
of other projects on the go at the same time) to get it in,
including shaft installation and all engine auxiliary
services like fuel/cooling/exhaust, etc.

I'm fairly handy but it's not rocket science. If your
average boatyard guy can do it, why can't you?

Evan Gatehouse