Metal contact forces are very high in the threads. Stainless is
especially prone to galling. What he is probably referring to is the
practice of putting the boat on a tack and attempting to tune the
weather rigging until it looks right under load. This can destroy a
turnbuckle.

The proper way is to turn a little on the leeward side, tack,
evaluate, and repeat. Use care. People have destroyed hulls by taking
up the leeward rigging bar tight, tacking, and then doing the same
thing on the other side. You turn the leeward turnbuckles only
because there is no load on them; not to get them as tight as you want
them when they are on the windward side.

Alternatively, tune as best you can at the dock, check under sail, and
make further adjustments at the dock. This works well on our simple
and basic rig. The more complex and bendy the rig, the more likely
that you'll have to do it under sail.

All turnbuckle threads should be well cleaned and lubricated before
tuning. This will help protect the threads.

--

Roger Long



"Geoff Schultz" wrote in message
6...
This discussions seems to be a reiteration of the "Of Cotter Pins
and
Rigging Tape" article by Bill Seifert in the July issue of Cruising
World.

In this article Bill states "Never tension a turnbuckle that's under
load." I know Bill as I used to sail out of the same marina, and
he's a
very knowledgeable guy. However I hate rules that have no
explaination
behind them. Why would Bill state this?

-- Geoff

"Roger Long" wrote in news:XZQye.3820$e%5.2999
@twister.nyroc.rr.com:

Metal contact forces are very high in the threads. Stainless is
especially prone to galling. What he is probably referring to is the
practice of putting the boat on a tack and attempting to tune the
weather rigging until it looks right under load. This can destroy a
turnbuckle.

That makes complete sense. Thanks for the explanation!

Since I have a Freedom 40/40 with a free standing carbon fiber mast, I
don't quite have these same issues.

-- Geoff