On Thu, 23 Jun 2005 23:46:26 -0400, Larry W4CSC
wrote:

Don White wrote in
:

a little over $ 300.00

package of blue butt end splices for #14-16 wire at Waste Marine - $7.80
Same exact package at Charleston Hardware store - $1.99
probably even cheaper at Home Depot....?? ///

Amateurs think that cheap split/rolled crimp connectors are
functionally identical to pro-style tubular crimps.
They aren't.
In a memorable epithet of Larry's, its BS

Brian Whatcott Altus OK

Brian Whatcott wrote in
news
Amateurs think that cheap split/rolled crimp connectors are
functionally identical to pro-style tubular crimps.
They aren't.
In a memorable epithet of Larry's, its BS

Brian Whatcott Altus OK



Same exact product....right down to the label from Adcor (or spelled
something like that).

--
Larry

You know you've had a rough night when you wake up and you're outlined in
chalk.

In article ,
wrote:

I'm sure this is a matter of opinion, but I would tend to favor
the 7X50, only because any type of motion makes the larger
magnification (10X) hard to deal with.

If magnification is all you are concerned about, than 10X with Image
Stabilization - as Jeff mentioned in his reply - might work for you.

They will also be easier on the eyes during daytime use than the 7X50's
(see below). Check them out at a dealer.

If you are planning to use them at night for navigational purposes, I'd
recommend the 7X50's. They have twice the light gathering power of the
10X50's (it's the same reason that 7X50's are preferred over 7X35's even
though the latter is lighter/smaller) and, as you've already mentioned,
are easier to keep steady compared to bincos with 10X magnification.

ron

On Sun, 26 Jun 2005 23:40:14 -0700, (Ron
Wong) wrote:

In article ,
wrote:

I'm sure this is a matter of opinion, but I would tend to favor
the 7X50, only because any type of motion makes the larger
magnification (10X) hard to deal with.

If magnification is all you are concerned about, than 10X with Image
Stabilization - as Jeff mentioned in his reply - might work for you.

They will also be easier on the eyes during daytime use than the 7X50's
(see below). Check them out at a dealer.

If you are planning to use them at night for navigational purposes, I'd
recommend the 7X50's. They have twice the light gathering power of the
10X50's (it's the same reason that 7X50's are preferred over 7X35's even
though the latter is lighter/smaller) and, as you've already mentioned,
are easier to keep steady compared to bincos with 10X magnification.

ron
I am no expert but have had a pair of Steiner 7x50s for about 15
years. I have tried friends 10x? and they were difficult to hold on a
target in any sort of light sea movement.

When I chose them, not knowing anything about binocs, I was lucky to
have a naval officer pointb out that I should try them out in twilight
conditions and take note of
1. light gathering
2. colour (yes, that is the correct spelling) definition of objects
such as red and green buoys.

It was amazing the difference in the later between several well known
brands of 7x50 binocs. I would never have thought of it but experience
has shown that it can make all the difference to correctly identifying
buoys, as not all are shaped as per the book or, as often in low light
conditions, with any swell, the shape may not be easily indentifiable
from afar when you are trying to make an anchorage before dark.

I swear by the steiners. They don't need to be focused. and are easy
to hold with even one hand.

Peter H

I have two sets of binoculars 10X50 and 7X50. I prefer the self focusing
7X50. I find the self focussing very easy to use in day light. At night
with moon light the 7X50 are fair. Conversely the electronic binocular are
better for night vision. However they get impaired by certain colors like
green, yellow and at time shiny white and consume battery power. The
consensus tends to be in favor of the 7X50. Some boaters prefer the 10X50.
Most important is how the binocular are sealed. My 7X50 are filled with
nitrogen and sealed as per MIL. specs. They do not get fogged up inside
and the vision is not affected by inside condensation. My 10X50 are not
build to MIL specs and condensation builds up inside. So I clean them
regularly inside out or I leave them inside the house.

"Ron Wong" wrote in message
...
In article ,
wrote:

I'm sure this is a matter of opinion, but I would tend to favor
the 7X50, only because any type of motion makes the larger
magnification (10X) hard to deal with.

If magnification is all you are concerned about, than 10X with Image
Stabilization - as Jeff mentioned in his reply - might work for you.

They will also be easier on the eyes during daytime use than the 7X50's
(see below). Check them out at a dealer.

If you are planning to use them at night for navigational purposes, I'd
recommend the 7X50's. They have twice the light gathering power of the
10X50's (it's the same reason that 7X50's are preferred over 7X35's even
though the latter is lighter/smaller) and, as you've already mentioned,
are easier to keep steady compared to bincos with 10X magnification.

ron

I have the older Canon 12x36 IS binocular, and wouldn't trade it for
anything. In fact, I sold my Fujinon 7x50 because I just didn't use it
anymore. I am also an amateur astronomer, and image stabilization plus
magnification more than makes up for less aperture in low-light
situations. I could resolve more tiny stars in clusters better in the
12x36 IS than I could in the 7x50 Fujis, and see more detail in faint
extended objects like galaxies and nebulae. Big globular star clusters
like M13 are on the verge of being resolved in the Canon, but were just
a bright smudge in the Fuji.

They are also great to use on the sailboat. Desite the motors and
electronics, it still weighs less than my Fuji 7x50 did, and so it is
easy to hold with one hand. The 12x36 Canon also has standard 43mm
threaded objectives, so I can screw in some skylight filters to spare
the lens coatings from salt spray. In fact, I used my 12x36 IS last
summer with skylight filters modified to hold Baader solar film, to
observe the Transit of Venus from Mauritius. I recommend this model
over any other IS binocular. I wish Canon still made them. None of
the current models have threads in the objective. You can find them on
eBay or maybe Astromart.com.

Stay away from the Russian mechanical (not electrical) IS binoculars.
They don't work too well.

We carry Fuji 7x50 binoculars and 14x stablized binoculars. 90 times
out of 100, I'll reach for the Fujis because they are always in focus,
easier to handle and are adequate for almost all jobs. If we are really
straining to see if that bouy is red or green, the IS does an excellent
job. If the weather is bad, the IS binocs always stay inside. Stan

frank1492 wrote:
I'm sure this is a matter of opinion, but I would tend to favor
the 7X50, only because any type of motion makes the larger
magnification (10X) hard to deal with.
Still, your opinions would be most appreciated!
Thank you!
Frank

bligh wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jun 2005 01:10:58 GMT, frank1492
wrote:

I'm sure this is a matter of opinion, but I would tend to favor
the 7X50, only because any type of motion makes the larger
magnification (10X) hard to deal with.
Still, your opinions would be most appreciated!
Thank you!
Frank

My friends, who are bigtime sailors and can afford anything suggested
the $50 7x50's from West Marine. They worked out great for me. (I
leave things and lose things and lend things and drop things over the
side.) The coolest- "oh my GOD" binoculars were a pair of 8x30
Steiners (sp) the Swiss army issues to their kids. What a revelation.

An earlier poster also mentioned Steiner, and said they never need
focusing.

I think I'm about to inherit a Steiner Commander 7x50 Pilot S with
stabilized compass (including redlight for night) which the company
identifies as about 10 years old. Focusing on these isn't automatic,
or even easy. It's one eyepiece at a time (can't get them out of
alignment with a center focus, that way).

However, I concur that they are dramatically better than anything I've
put to my eyes before. Today's equivalent "lists" for about 2K but you
can buy them for as little as 900 bux in a variety of places.

For anyone following my saga (and thus aware of what we're doing and
how long it's been), the reason, I infer, that I'll inherit these is
the contractor I'm using, who's taken many months and *all* of my boat
fund, took a lot of stuff off a major project at the request of the
owner, who was about to lose the boat. I got a couple Uniden handheld
radios, and some charts given to me outright, about a week after he'd
handed me these to ask my opinion, saying he was thinking of selling
them. I believe two things are at work. First is that he's cleaning
out his closet, finally realizing he's not going to get any money from
the guy (who owes him several decaboatbux). The second is that he
realizes he's taken far too long, and at this point I can't afford to
buy anything which won't get the boat splashed. Easy twofer - clean
out the closet and salve the conscience :{))

L8R

Skip, on the boat using wifi - without an up-the-mast solution yet,
seeing daylight but far from finished in the refit...

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails.
Explore.
Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain