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Jeff
 
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Mic wrote:
....
It was stated that about 93% of the time the winds are between 13-17
knots and for the remaining 7% of the time - 97% of that time they are
between 17-21 knots.


It may have been "stated" but that doesn't make it true or meaningful.


The above statement can be said about anthing. But If you take your
own experience and that of others from their logs then come to your
own conclusion on its relative truth or meaningfulness.


I think just about all of the readers here would think the the maximum
gust strength in more significant than the average wind strength. In
many locations, the average summer wind could be offered as proof that
sailing is physically impossible!




First of all, the "average" wind varies a fair amount by location and
season, so any statistical claim such as that is just nonsense.



Yep. The reputation of the tasman sea is an example or the north
atlantic. But the trade winds are different and the pacific "milk
run"...


In all of those cases you'll encounter winds stronger than your
implied average.

....

Interesting link
http://web.usna.navy.mil/~phmiller/usna1.html


lots of neat stuff there ... anything in particular?



In fact, if you just look at the record gusts, you'll find that most
cities in the US have had high gusts (over 40 knots) in almost every
month of the year. Thus, any permanently rigged dodger has to be able
handle that.



Yep, although I have never seen a claim by any maker of tests to and
of their dodgers., why?


Its a little hard - there are too many variables. And if no one does
it, there's no reason for anyone to do it. Actually, I expect the
various components of the dodger are warrantied for manufacturing
flaws, such as stitching coming out, but there are very few products
covered for hurricane damage.

My standard is 50 knots - that is, when I leave the boat
unattended, I assume that it can withstand gusts up to about 50 knots.
Above that point, I might consider adding docklines or removing
canvas. Designing something to "average winds" is silly.



Yep, but designed to force 5 huricanes, it that practical or common.


No, obviously at some point it is prudent to remove the canvas.
However, you made comments that seemed to imply that wind over 21
knots is so uncommon as to be not worth considering. The one time my
boat was in the the direct path of a hurricane (Bob, '91, but
diminished to marginal hurricane strength) I stripped all sail and
canvas. However, of the 350 boats on my marina, few stripped
everything and there was only minor damage. Clearly, most of the
dodgers were built to at least minimal hurricane strength. My
cousin's boat was carried a mile inland and had to be lifted out by
helicopter, but the dodger survived.

Actually, for the case of a dodger, its probably your brother-in-law
falling into it that you have to worry about. The frame should be at
least strong enough to hold a person; ideally it should be able to
withstand a person falling heavily against it.



Probably, but I doubt any standard commercial dodger would survive a
200lbs person in all situations without damage.


Many are built to hold the weight of a full sized person hanging from
it as they go down the companionway. I doubt a pvc frame would hold
that. Actually, this situation is probably the key issue of this
discussion.

....


How many boats have the ready provision for emerg. steering? I only
know of one production boat as such. Why dont they have that, is
almost common sense, (common sense isnt so common:{} )
Most are of a homebrew design. either as foresights or as required.


My boat has two (potentially) independent rudder systems, with
provision for an emergency tiller on either. My previous boat, and
many quality boats with wheel steering, has provision for an emergency
tiller.

Beyond that, I'm not sure what the value of true emergency steering
is, given that 99% of boats almost never leave SeaTow range. Would a
Catalina 30 buyer pay a few thousand extra for this capability? Wind
vane self steering is useful for long distance passage makers, and for
them, a fully redundant backup rudder is handy, but this is an after
market issue.

Frankly, if I were building a boat specifically for long distance
passages, I'd want to minimize the chance of damage, with a heavy duty
rudder mounted on skeg.





I have researched virtually all the sailing homebrew material
available:


...

The common aspect of of most of the "home brew" techniques is that
they have been proven worthless. For example, how many home built
ferro-cement boats are still sailing?



That is an exception example.


No, that's right up there with poly sails and pvc davits. And don't
forget pepper in bottom paint.

....

Stitch and glue is a homebrew tech. and is accepted as a commonly
acceptable tech. etc.


This is one exception I was thinking of. However, its only useful for
small boats.


Home many blue poly sails do you see?


Well, not many. But they are mostly on 18footer or less. Ususally the
stitch and glue dingys.... but the knowledge and tech. could be
applied in certain situations... an those that have used them would
have spent more on sails than in the construction of their boat.


If your goal is to prove that that you can make a mediocre (at best)
boat for pocket change, fine. And I'll even admit that the first boat
I built had a sail made from an old bedsheet.

However, sailcloth is about a buck a square foot. Spinnaker cloth is
even less. So what do you save? 50 bucks? If I'm going to sit at
the sewing machine for a few hours, plus put in a mess of grommets,
I'd rather spend the $50 and have something I'm proud of.





There are a few notable exceptions, but most of the home brew building
materials are junk. Why don't you see blue poly dodgers? Because
most people understand that the materials are only about 20% of the
value of the project. Most of the value is in the craft of assembly
and finish. Why would anyone use third rate materials for something
that takes a lot of manual labor?



Yep. This can be applied to production boats. Refer to Bob Pascoe
website.


Actually, I'd say that most of Pascoe's horrible examples are a big
step up from poly dodgers. I will admit that I chartered an Irwin for
a season (that was the Hurricane Bob boat) and it was such a POS that
my subsequent two boats were from high quality manufacturers.


....

I have heard and seen many boaters using PVC and blue poly tarps for
their winter covers. Now the tarps may only last a season or two, but
no one, that I know of has had an issue with the PVC supports other
than the tech. they used to secure them to the boat. Some tent poles
are made of fiberglass and it is amazing how much they bend, I haven
seen or heard of one breaking but thats not to say they dont. Look at
the condition on Everest, and the material that are used, sort of like
a fixed sail on land.


Well, of course a blue poly tarp is not a bad winter sail cover, I've
even used them for a few seasons. But isn't that a case of using a
material for it's actual designed purpose? Most shrink wrap frames
around here are built from very cheap wood strapping. PVC, conduit,
or almost anything else is a step up.


  #2   Report Post  
Mic
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 19:25:36 -0400, Jeff wrote:

Mic wrote:
...
It was stated that about 93% of the time the winds are between 13-17
knots and for the remaining 7% of the time - 97% of that time they are
between 17-21 knots.

It may have been "stated" but that doesn't make it true or meaningful.


The above statement can be said about anthing. But If you take your
own experience and that of others from their logs then come to your
own conclusion on its relative truth or meaningfulness.


I think just about all of the readers here would think the the maximum
gust strength in more significant than the average wind strength.


yep..a gust is not sustained winds.

In
many locations, the average summer wind could be offered as proof that
sailing is physically impossible!


I really cant think of any, where would you suggest?




First of all, the "average" wind varies a fair amount by location and
season, so any statistical claim such as that is just nonsense.



Yep. The reputation of the tasman sea is an example or the north
atlantic. But the trade winds are different and the pacific "milk
run"...


In all of those cases you'll encounter winds stronger than your
implied average.


Yep thats why I mentioned them, and other than the "horn" and the tip
of south africa, well the artics too...relative to the vastness of the
ocean, I dont consider that alot.

How many people do you see go out when it is 30 knots sustained. Near
zero.

...

Interesting link
http://web.usna.navy.mil/~phmiller/usna1.html


lots of neat stuff there ... anything in particular?


Yes....Stiffness Reduction of Marine Composites
http://web.usna.navy.mil/~phmiller/J...24fatigue.html



In fact, if you just look at the record gusts, you'll find that most
cities in the US have had high gusts (over 40 knots) in almost every
month of the year. Thus, any permanently rigged dodger has to be able
handle that.



Yep, although I have never seen a claim by any maker of tests to and
of their dodgers., why?


Its a little hard - there are too many variables. And if no one does
it, there's no reason for anyone to do it. Actually, I expect the
various components of the dodger are warrantied for manufacturing
flaws, such as stitching coming out, but there are very few products
covered for hurricane damage.


Right...so it all kind of relative and somewhat subjective.


My standard is 50 knots - that is, when I leave the boat
unattended, I assume that it can withstand gusts up to about 50 knots.
Above that point, I might consider adding docklines or removing
canvas. Designing something to "average winds" is silly.



Yep, but designed to force 5 huricanes, it that practical or common.


No, obviously at some point it is prudent to remove the canvas.
However, you made comments that seemed to imply that wind over 21
knots is so uncommon as to be not worth considering.


No actually that is what is the most worth considering, but am of the
opinion that it is not a frequent stat., "sustained" winds over 21
knots, geographic exceptions noted.

The one time my
boat was in the the direct path of a hurricane (Bob, '91, but
diminished to marginal hurricane strength) I stripped all sail and
canvas. However, of the 350 boats on my marina, few stripped
everything and there was only minor damage. Clearly, most of the
dodgers were built to at least minimal hurricane strength. My
cousin's boat was carried a mile inland and had to be lifted out by
helicopter, but the dodger survived.

Actually, for the case of a dodger, its probably your brother-in-law
falling into it that you have to worry about. The frame should be at
least strong enough to hold a person; ideally it should be able to
withstand a person falling heavily against it.



Probably, but I doubt any standard commercial dodger would survive a
200lbs person in all situations without damage.


Many are built to hold the weight of a full sized person hanging from
it as they go down the companionway. I doubt a pvc frame would hold
that. Actually, this situation is probably the key issue of this
discussion.


Actually I prefer ABS...If I have the time and material handy,,,I
might like to do some tests..

...


How many boats have the ready provision for emerg. steering? I only
know of one production boat as such. Why dont they have that, is
almost common sense, (common sense isnt so common:{} )
Most are of a homebrew design. either as foresights or as required.


My boat has two (potentially) independent rudder systems, with
provision for an emergency tiller on either. My previous boat, and
many quality boats with wheel steering, has provision for an emergency
tiller.


Yes, but not rudder....

I have seen a "homebrew" pindel and grudeon rudder that worked like a
cassette. The cassette was inserted to the grudeons and then the
rudder through the cassette - very cool.....so easy and cheap to make.
By using this cassette method is ingenious,,,,as trying to install a
rudder in full on rough conditions might be more of a challenge.

Beyond that, I'm not sure what the value of true emergency steering
is, given that 99% of boats almost never leave SeaTow range. Would a
Catalina 30 buyer pay a few thousand extra for this capability? Wind
vane self steering is useful for long distance passage makers, and for
them, a fully redundant backup rudder is handy, but this is an after
market issue.

Frankly, if I were building a boat specifically for long distance
passages, I'd want to minimize the chance of damage, with a heavy duty
rudder mounted on skeg.


Would that be "balanced"? If so How?

Well thats really another topic "rudders and keels".

I see a lot of spade rudders out there....at least the boats I am
noticing.






I have researched virtually all the sailing homebrew material
available:

...

The common aspect of of most of the "home brew" techniques is that
they have been proven worthless. For example, how many home built
ferro-cement boats are still sailing?



That is an exception example.


No, that's right up there with poly sails and pvc davits. And don't
forget pepper in bottom paint.


Havent seen the pvc davits anywhere.....yet;}}

...

Stitch and glue is a homebrew tech. and is accepted as a commonly
acceptable tech. etc.


This is one exception I was thinking of. However, its only useful for
small boats.


Home many blue poly sails do you see?


Well, not many. But they are mostly on 18footer or less. Ususally the
stitch and glue dingys.... but the knowledge and tech. could be
applied in certain situations... an those that have used them would
have spent more on sails than in the construction of their boat.


If your goal is to prove that that you can make a mediocre (at best)
boat for pocket change, fine. And I'll even admit that the first boat
I built had a sail made from an old bedsheet.

However, sailcloth is about a buck a square foot. Spinnaker cloth is
even less. So what do you save? 50 bucks? If I'm going to sit at
the sewing machine for a few hours, plus put in a mess of grommets,
I'd rather spend the $50 and have something I'm proud of.


Actually I dont think many of the polys are sewn,,,,and your going to
like the fact that some use carpet tape.





There are a few notable exceptions, but most of the home brew building
materials are junk. Why don't you see blue poly dodgers? Because
most people understand that the materials are only about 20% of the
value of the project. Most of the value is in the craft of assembly
and finish. Why would anyone use third rate materials for something
that takes a lot of manual labor?



Yep. This can be applied to production boats. Refer to Bob Pascoe
website.


Actually, I'd say that most of Pascoe's horrible examples are a big
step up from poly dodgers.


I would not use poly on a dodger...never said I would.

The point I was making was regarding you statement "Why would anyone
use third rate materials for something that takes a lot of manual
labor?" Was the fact of the state of build of many production boats
apply to your comment and can not just be directed at homebrew
projects.


I will admit that I chartered an Irwin for
a season (that was the Hurricane Bob boat) and it was such a POS that
my subsequent two boats were from high quality manufacturers.


...

I have heard and seen many boaters using PVC and blue poly tarps for
their winter covers. Now the tarps may only last a season or two, but
no one, that I know of has had an issue with the PVC supports other
than the tech. they used to secure them to the boat. Some tent poles
are made of fiberglass and it is amazing how much they bend, I haven
seen or heard of one breaking but thats not to say they dont. Look at
the condition on Everest, and the material that are used, sort of like
a fixed sail on land.


Well, of course a blue poly tarp is not a bad winter sail cover, I've
even used them for a few seasons. But isn't that a case of using a
material for it's actual designed purpose? Most shrink wrap frames
around here are built from very cheap wood strapping. PVC, conduit,
or almost anything else is a step up.



  #3   Report Post  
Jeff
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Mic wrote:

In
many locations, the average summer wind could be offered as proof that
sailing is physically impossible!



I really cant think of any, where would you suggest?


The average wind in Myrtle Beach in August is 4 knots.


Yep. The reputation of the tasman sea is an example or the north
atlantic. But the trade winds are different and the pacific "milk
run"...


In all of those cases you'll encounter winds stronger than your
implied average.



Yep thats why I mentioned them, and other than the "horn" and the tip
of south africa, well the artics too...relative to the vastness of the
ocean, I dont consider that alot.


But do you actually have a point to this?


How many people do you see go out when it is 30 knots sustained. Near
zero.


This is total nonsense. While I don't often leave the dock in high
winds, at least once a year I find myself out in strong winds. Last
year's episode had lighter wind than our normal max - it was about 30
but on the stern - it was the 10+ foot confused sea that annoyed my
wife.

And for a dodger, it isn't the wind while sailing that counts, the
wind at the dock can be just as bad. A few days after I launched this
year we had gusts to about 50.


....



No, obviously at some point it is prudent to remove the canvas.
However, you made comments that seemed to imply that wind over 21
knots is so uncommon as to be not worth considering.



No actually that is what is the most worth considering, but am of the
opinion that it is not a frequent stat., "sustained" winds over 21
knots, geographic exceptions noted.


I have no idea what you're trying to say ...

....

How many boats have the ready provision for emerg. steering? I only
know of one production boat as such. Why dont they have that, is
almost common sense, (common sense isnt so common:{} )
Most are of a homebrew design. either as foresights or as required.


My boat has two (potentially) independent rudder systems, with
provision for an emergency tiller on either. My previous boat, and
many quality boats with wheel steering, has provision for an emergency
tiller.



Yes, but not rudder....


As I said, my current boat has two complete systems, including two
rudders.



I have seen a "homebrew" pindel and grudeon rudder that worked like a
cassette. The cassette was inserted to the grudeons and then the
rudder through the cassette - very cool.....so easy and cheap to make.
By using this cassette method is ingenious,,,,as trying to install a
rudder in full on rough conditions might be more of a challenge.


Don't a number of dinghies use this arrangement?


Frankly, if I were building a boat specifically for long distance
passages, I'd want to minimize the chance of damage, with a heavy duty
rudder mounted on skeg.



Would that be "balanced"? If so How?


Nope, it wouldn't be balanced. That's a nice attribute, but not
necessary. If you're considering scenarios where you need to replace
the rudder underway, you probably need a protected rudder more than a
balanced one.


Well thats really another topic "rudders and keels".

I see a lot of spade rudders out there....at least the boats I am
noticing.


But its leads you to worrying about emergency rudders. This is not
the path of simplicity.


No, that's right up there with poly sails and pvc davits. And don't
forget pepper in bottom paint.


Havent seen the pvc davits anywhere.....yet;}}


Fortunately, they haven't caught on, but I've seen a few.


....
However, sailcloth is about a buck a square foot. Spinnaker cloth is
even less. So what do you save? 50 bucks? If I'm going to sit at
the sewing machine for a few hours, plus put in a mess of grommets,
I'd rather spend the $50 and have something I'm proud of.



Actually I dont think many of the polys are sewn,,,,and your going to
like the fact that some use carpet tape.


A real class act. But I understand. I've owned an old VW bug that was
built out of parts salvaged from several bugs, a Karmann Ghia and an
old Porsche. I've also owned a new Mercedes. Both had their charm,
but believe me, the Mercedes was a lot more enjoyable to drive,
especially if I had to drive more than walking distance from my apartment.




Actually, I'd say that most of Pascoe's horrible examples are a big
step up from poly dodgers.



I would not use poly on a dodger...never said I would.

The point I was making was regarding you statement "Why would anyone
use third rate materials for something that takes a lot of manual
labor?" Was the fact of the state of build of many production boats
apply to your comment and can not just be directed at homebrew
projects.


OK. Are you claiming to because some builders use crap you're
entitled to do the same? As you wish.


  #4   Report Post  
Mic
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 22:45:12 -0400, Jeff wrote:

Mic wrote:

In
many locations, the average summer wind could be offered as proof that
sailing is physically impossible!



I really cant think of any, where would you suggest?


The average wind in Myrtle Beach in August is 4 knots.


Yep. The reputation of the tasman sea is an example or the north
atlantic. But the trade winds are different and the pacific "milk
run"...

In all of those cases you'll encounter winds stronger than your
implied average.



Yep thats why I mentioned them, and other than the "horn" and the tip
of south africa, well the artics too...relative to the vastness of the
ocean, I dont consider that alot.


But do you actually have a point to this?


yes the generalization of average winds as noted would not necessary
apply to these regions.


How many people do you see go out when it is 30 knots sustained. Near
zero.


This is total nonsense. While I don't often leave the dock in high
winds, at least once a year I find myself out in strong winds. Last
year's episode had lighter wind than our normal max - it was about 30
but on the stern - it was the 10+ foot confused sea that annoyed my
wife.


There is a big difference in being out when 30 knots of wind occur and
going out when there is that much wind, it not nonsense...it is fact.
As you said yourself you dont often go out in such conditions. And
many in pleasure boating and even passage making dont either.


And for a dodger, it isn't the wind while sailing that counts, the
wind at the dock can be just as bad.


yep

A few days after I launched this
year we had gusts to about 50.


...



No, obviously at some point it is prudent to remove the canvas.
However, you made comments that seemed to imply that wind over 21
knots is so uncommon as to be not worth considering.



No actually that is what is the most worth considering, but am of the
opinion that it is not a frequent stat., "sustained" winds over 21
knots, geographic exceptions noted.


I have no idea what you're trying to say ...


Simple I take the "statement" as reasonable fact based on experience
and practically every cruiser log published on the net.
That the average sustained winds are usually less than about 21 knots,
certain geographically noted exceptions excluded.


...

How many boats have the ready provision for emerg. steering? I only
know of one production boat as such. Why dont they have that, is
almost common sense, (common sense isnt so common:{} )
Most are of a homebrew design. either as foresights or as required.

My boat has two (potentially) independent rudder systems, with
provision for an emergency tiller on either. My previous boat, and
many quality boats with wheel steering, has provision for an emergency
tiller.



Yes, but not rudder....


As I said, my current boat has two complete systems, including two
rudders.


How are they configured? Are they production original, is one a
homebrew or off the shelf?




I have seen a "homebrew" pindel and grudeon rudder that worked like a
cassette. The cassette was inserted to the grudeons and then the
rudder through the cassette - very cool.....so easy and cheap to make.
By using this cassette method is ingenious,,,,as trying to install a
rudder in full on rough conditions might be more of a challenge.


Don't a number of dinghies use this arrangement?


Maybe but not what I have seen? This arrangement was not on a dingy.


Frankly, if I were building a boat specifically for long distance
passages, I'd want to minimize the chance of damage, with a heavy duty
rudder mounted on skeg.



Would that be "balanced"? If so How?


Nope, it wouldn't be balanced. That's a nice attribute, but not
necessary. If you're considering scenarios where you need to replace
the rudder underway, you probably need a protected rudder more than a
balanced one.


I really need to create another topic on the issue of rudder and
keels. As I am looking at 2 significantly (keel and rudder)
different boats. A grampian 26 and a bayfield 25 and will be looking
for opinions from which to help make a decision.


Well thats really another topic "rudders and keels".

I see a lot of spade rudders out there....at least the boats I am
noticing.


But its leads you to worrying about emergency rudders. This is not
the path of simplicity.


Not necessarly. Alot of factors of necessary force on a tiller has to
do with sail balance and rudder design, current,wind, etc/



No, that's right up there with poly sails and pvc davits. And don't
forget pepper in bottom paint.


Havent seen the pvc davits anywhere.....yet;}}


Fortunately, they haven't caught on, but I've seen a few.


...
However, sailcloth is about a buck a square foot. Spinnaker cloth is
even less. So what do you save? 50 bucks? If I'm going to sit at
the sewing machine for a few hours, plus put in a mess of grommets,
I'd rather spend the $50 and have something I'm proud of.



Actually I dont think many of the polys are sewn,,,,and your going to
like the fact that some use carpet tape.


A real class act. But I understand. I've owned an old VW bug that was
built out of parts salvaged from several bugs, a Karmann Ghia and an
old Porsche. I've also owned a new Mercedes. Both had their charm,
but believe me, the Mercedes was a lot more enjoyable to drive,
especially if I had to drive more than walking distance from my apartment.




Actually, I'd say that most of Pascoe's horrible examples are a big
step up from poly dodgers.



I would not use poly on a dodger...never said I would.

The point I was making was regarding you statement "Why would anyone
use third rate materials for something that takes a lot of manual
labor?" Was the fact of the state of build of many production boats
apply to your comment and can not just be directed at homebrew
projects.


OK. Are you claiming to because some builders use crap you're
entitled to do the same? As you wish.


No. The thread was put out for opinions, a good thing. Come to think
of it no one suggested any possible tests of methods or materials, I
think should one proceed with such material, tests
would be inorder. Design could be the determining factor in
reasonable success or failure. As Glenn pointed out the strenght of a
curve would be greater than a square....- not possible with abs.





  #5   Report Post  
Jeff
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Mic wrote:

But do you actually have a point to this?


yes the generalization of average winds as noted would not necessary
apply to these regions.


My point was the the generalization of average winds applies to very
little when considering how strong something has to be.


How many people do you see go out when it is 30 knots sustained. Near
zero.


This is total nonsense. While I don't often leave the dock in high
winds, at least once a year I find myself out in strong winds. Last
year's episode had lighter wind than our normal max - it was about 30
but on the stern - it was the 10+ foot confused sea that annoyed my
wife.



There is a big difference in being out when 30 knots of wind occur and
going out when there is that much wind, it not nonsense...it is fact.
As you said yourself you dont often go out in such conditions. And
many in pleasure boating and even passage making dont either.


There is a difference in the intent, but 30 knots is 30 knots
regardless of the intent. This is a discussion about design, not
intent. While daysailors have the option of never leaving the dock
unless the short term forecast is perfect, passage makers have made an
commitment to take whatever the sea offers.

Boats must be designed to the most severe weather they might
reasonably encounter. For this consideration, the "average wind" is
meaningless.

So what would you think is a reasonable design point? In all of the
larger boats I've owned, I've been out in 40+ knots, anchored in 50+,
and had 60+ at the dock. All of them have made Atlantic crossings
(not by me!), including the 25 footer.

There is, of course, a flip side to this. I have friends who bought
heavy weather boats for the security they offer, then found its not
worth raising sail until its blowing 20; others have light air boats
that need to be reefed above 15. But this is a somewhat different
design issue.

....

Simple I take the "statement" as reasonable fact based on experience
and practically every cruiser log published on the net.
That the average sustained winds are usually less than about 21 knots,
certain geographically noted exceptions excluded.


Yes, this is true. Just not relevant to the discussion.



As I said, my current boat has two complete systems, including two
rudders.



How are they configured? Are they production original, is one a
homebrew or off the shelf?


Off the shelf, standard configuration, 100 built, plus another 100 of
related designs. On most boats of my design, the rudder is a balanced
spade, and I've know of one case where one of the rudders got jammed
and had to be disconnected. My boat, and about a third of the newer
sisterships, has a skeg hung rudder. Handling under sail suffers a
bit, though I'm not sure its really a downside, since I don't use it
for "round the buoys" racing.

BTW, many of the other boats I considered had similar setups. The
sailboat next to me in the yard had twin rudders, and one of the other
sailboats on my dock, of a completely different style, also has twin
rudders.


....
I see a lot of spade rudders out there....at least the boats I am
noticing.


But its leads you to worrying about emergency rudders. This is not
the path of simplicity.



Not necessarly. Alot of factors of necessary force on a tiller has to
do with sail balance and rudder design, current,wind, etc/


Yes, you have to look at the whole package. My previous boat had a
rig that was prone to being unbalanced and overpowering, so I was glad
to have a balanced spade. Before that, I had a full keel that tracked
"on rails" so the spade wasn't needed.



  #6   Report Post  
Mic
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 08:45:32 -0400, Jeff wrote:

Mic wrote:

But do you actually have a point to this?


yes the generalization of average winds as noted would not necessary
apply to these regions.


My point was the the generalization of average winds applies to very
little when considering how strong something has to be.


Good point, but to then figure that it has to be bullit proof is it
reasonable for it to be built to withstand what max force? Where do
you draw the line? That is my point.


How many people do you see go out when it is 30 knots sustained. Near
zero.


This is total nonsense. While I don't often leave the dock in high
winds, at least once a year I find myself out in strong winds. Last
year's episode had lighter wind than our normal max - it was about 30
but on the stern - it was the 10+ foot confused sea that annoyed my
wife.



There is a big difference in being out when 30 knots of wind occur and
going out when there is that much wind, it not nonsense...it is fact.
As you said yourself you dont often go out in such conditions. And
many in pleasure boating and even passage making dont either.


There is a difference in the intent, but 30 knots is 30 knots
regardless of the intent. This is a discussion about design, not
intent. While daysailors have the option of never leaving the dock
unless the short term forecast is perfect, passage makers have made an
commitment to take whatever the sea offers.


Yes if they are already out in it, but in the logs of Bumfuzzle on
there way from panama to galapagoes in about 30 knots they were
beating to the weather and wave, they made the decision to turn and
run with the waves for the nearest port in SA.

http://www.bumfuzzle.com/LogsDates.htm

Also if you read bill_dietrich logs at:
http://www.geocities.com/bill_dietri...agnoliaLog.txt
Currently in Bahamas, you will see how many boats leave an anchorage
and them shortly return...

Bill has an excellent site at
http://www.geocities.com/bill_dietri...boat.html#plan

It is mostly a collection of thought of a huge amount of sailors
collected over years from various sources....

Boats must be designed to the most severe weather they might
reasonably encounter. For this consideration, the "average wind" is
meaningless.


Right average wind is meaningless, its the forces of the sea, as was
pointed out in Glenn post. If most of the time the weather is not
greater than 21 knots what do you reasonable design for? Do you
design for the 7% of the time at the winds are above 21 knots? To
design anthing nautical for just 21 knots would be foolish, I never
suggested that, but rather reiterated a stat. I believe to be
reasonable true.

So what would you think is a reasonable design point? In all of the
larger boats I've owned, I've been out in 40+ knots, anchored in 50+,
and had 60+ at the dock. All of them have made Atlantic crossings
(not by me!), including the 25 footer.


I dont think I could answer that question, although in many instances
builder and designers have lowered that point, when compared with
earlier GRP production boats, but a much debatable subject.

Some boats are designed with specific usage. But some near coastal
craft have been taken on circumnavigations -blue water.


There is, of course, a flip side to this. I have friends who bought
heavy weather boats for the security they offer, then found its not
worth raising sail until its blowing 20; others have light air boats
that need to be reefed above 15. But this is a somewhat different
design issue.


Yep, that is somewhat of the issue I have in deciding
between 2 boats.

...

Simple I take the "statement" as reasonable fact based on experience
and practically every cruiser log published on the net.
That the average sustained winds are usually less than about 21 knots,
certain geographically noted exceptions excluded.


Yes, this is true. Just not relevant to the discussion.


????But this discussion always seems to focus around this issue.



As I said, my current boat has two complete systems, including two
rudders.



How are they configured? Are they production original, is one a
homebrew or off the shelf?


Off the shelf, standard configuration, 100 built, plus another 100 of
related designs. On most boats of my design, the rudder is a balanced
spade, and I've know of one case where one of the rudders got jammed
and had to be disconnected. My boat, and about a third of the newer
sisterships, has a skeg hung rudder. Handling under sail suffers a
bit, though I'm not sure its really a downside, since I don't use it
for "round the buoys" racing.


Are you a boat designer?

BTW, many of the other boats I considered had similar setups. The
sailboat next to me in the yard had twin rudders, and one of the other
sailboats on my dock, of a completely different style, also has twin
rudders.


How are the twin rudders configured? What make of boat? I have seen a
mono with a spade rudder and a transom hung one as well but this was
an after design and more based on a emerg. 2nd rudder.


...
I see a lot of spade rudders out there....at least the boats I am
noticing.

But its leads you to worrying about emergency rudders. This is not
the path of simplicity.



Not necessarly. Alot of factors of necessary force on a tiller has to
do with sail balance and rudder design, current,wind, etc/


Yes, you have to look at the whole package. My previous boat had a
rig that was prone to being unbalanced and overpowering, so I was glad
to have a balanced spade. Before that, I had a full keel that tracked
"on rails" so the spade wasn't needed.


  #7   Report Post  
Jeff
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Mic wrote:


Good point, but to then figure that it has to be bullit proof is it
reasonable for it to be built to withstand what max force? Where do
you draw the line? That is my point.


Somewhere above the average wind and below a Force 5 hurricane.


There is a difference in the intent, but 30 knots is 30 knots
regardless of the intent. This is a discussion about design, not
intent. While daysailors have the option of never leaving the dock
unless the short term forecast is perfect, passage makers have made an
commitment to take whatever the sea offers.



Yes if they are already out in it, but in the logs of Bumfuzzle on
there way from panama to galapagoes in about 30 knots they were
beating to the weather and wave, they made the decision to turn and
run with the waves for the nearest port in SA.

http://www.bumfuzzle.com/LogsDates.htm


True, but they were still out in it. It just happened that in this
case, they had an alternative. If they didn't have the alternative,
would they have abandoned ship?


Also if you read bill_dietrich logs at:
http://www.geocities.com/bill_dietri...agnoliaLog.txt
Currently in Bahamas, you will see how many boats leave an anchorage
and them shortly return...


Seen it all the time, been there myself. It doesn't change a thing.
You must assume that every now and them you'll be caught in stronger
winds than you normally are comfortable in. Frankly, these people are
lucky that the weak link is their own nerve (or their stomachs),
rather than the boat. I've never been happy on a boat that I don't
have a lot of faith in - I like to think that the boat and its gear
can handle any situation I'm willing to get into.

....


So what would you think is a reasonable design point? In all of the
larger boats I've owned, I've been out in 40+ knots, anchored in 50+,
and had 60+ at the dock. All of them have made Atlantic crossings
(not by me!), including the 25 footer.



I dont think I could answer that question, although in many instances
builder and designers have lowered that point, when compared with
earlier GRP production boats, but a much debatable subject.


If you plan to go out there, you had better be able to answer it.
Every choice you make for gear and planning will have this in the
background.

One of the biggest mistakes people make is not understanding how they
will really use their boat, especially cruising sailboats. It seems
that some buyers equate the number of berths with blue water
capability, or stainless fittings with quality construction. Other
buyers are obsessed with getting the strongest, heaviest boat possible
when they never leave their protected bay. It seems like every few
weeks someone here asks advice on the proper boat for ocean passages,
because they plan to learn to sail next year and want the right boat.




Some boats are designed with specific usage. But some near coastal
craft have been taken on circumnavigations -blue water.


Absolutely true. However, when you hear of a boat foundering in a 40
knot gale offshore, you usually find its a lightweight coastal
cruiser, or a poorly maintained older boat.

And remember - you've been "surprised" that more boats don't have
provisions for emergency rudders. Most of these coastal boats don't,
in fact relatively few passage makers nowadays have that.


There is, of course, a flip side to this. I have friends who bought
heavy weather boats for the security they offer, then found its not
worth raising sail until its blowing 20; others have light air boats
that need to be reefed above 15. But this is a somewhat different
design issue.



Yep, that is somewhat of the issue I have in deciding
between 2 boats.


The couple that used a Westsail for an ICW trip found that using a
tiller on such a heavy boat was just too much of a pain. They gave it
up soon after returning.

...

Simple I take the "statement" as reasonable fact based on experience
and practically every cruiser log published on the net.
That the average sustained winds are usually less than about 21 knots,
certain geographically noted exceptions excluded.


Yes, this is true. Just not relevant to the discussion.


????But this discussion always seems to focus around this issue.

I can say no more.



How are they configured? Are they production original, is one a
homebrew or off the shelf?


Off the shelf, standard configuration, 100 built, plus another 100 of
related designs. On most boats of my design, the rudder is a balanced
spade, and I've know of one case where one of the rudders got jammed
and had to be disconnected. My boat, and about a third of the newer
sisterships, has a skeg hung rudder. Handling under sail suffers a
bit, though I'm not sure its really a downside, since I don't use it
for "round the buoys" racing.



Are you a boat designer?


Nope, although that was my first major in school. I found my talents
lie elsewhe I spent the last 25 years as a computer programmer.



BTW, many of the other boats I considered had similar setups. The
sailboat next to me in the yard had twin rudders, and one of the other
sailboats on my dock, of a completely different style, also has twin
rudders.



How are the twin rudders configured? What make of boat? I have seen a
mono with a spade rudder and a transom hung one as well but this was
an after design and more based on a emerg. 2nd rudder.


I suppose I have to tell eventually ... I have a catamaran, a PDQ 36.
One rudder on each hull, off course, tied together with a crosslink
attached to each quadrant. One is driven by a cable from the wheel;
each can accept a tiller from above. Although space, speed, and
stability were the primary factors in going with a cat, the safety of
twin rudders, twin engines, and the flotation of twin hulls were a
significant part of the decision.

Jeff
www.sv-loki.com

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