|
WTB: Marine Inverter
Need a replacement for a "blown" Inverter. If you have one 2000 to 3000
Watts - let me know. Allen |
Allen McCann wrote in :
Need a replacement for a "blown" Inverter. If you have one 2000 to 3000 Watts - let me know. Allen http://www.samsclub.com/ Sam's Club has the 3000 watt, really heavily=built Vector Maxx 3000 (model VEC051) for $429. Hope you gots plenty of house batteries...(c; This is a very nice unit with really heavy-duty cable connectors and all the toys..... Or, maybe, you could get the one with the yacht club flag stuck to it from a "discount" boat parts retailer for $3995.....NOT! Like Wally World, of course, Sam's will simply replace it if you blow it. They even offer an additional 3-year no-questions warranty for $40. Go take a look....... |
On Sun, 06 Mar 2005 22:16:10 -0500, Larry W4CSC
wrote: Sam's Club has the 3000 watt, really heavily=built Vector Maxx 3000 (model VEC051) for $429. Hope you gots plenty of house batteries...(c; ============================== Or here for $332.95: http://www.audioallies.com/getitem.a...=VEC051&Sys=FR |
Wayne.B wrote in
: Or here for $332.95: http://www.audioallies.com/getitem.a...=VEC051&Sys=FR I didn't search the net because I wasn't buying, but thanks.....(c; |
Larry W4CSC wrote: Allen McCann wrote in : Need a replacement for a "blown" Inverter. If you have one 2000 to 3000 Watts - let me know. Allen http://www.samsclub.com/ Sam's Club has the 3000 watt, really heavily=built Vector Maxx 3000 (model VEC051) for $429. Hope you gots plenty of house batteries...(c; This is a very nice unit with really heavy-duty cable connectors and all the toys..... Or, maybe, you could get the one with the yacht club flag stuck to it from a "discount" boat parts retailer for $3995.....NOT! Like Wally World, of course, Sam's will simply replace it if you blow it. They even offer an additional 3-year no-questions warranty for $40. Go take a look....... Thanks. That is the one I am going to get. Allen |
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
... On Sun, 06 Mar 2005 22:16:10 -0500, Larry W4CSC wrote: Sam's Club has the 3000 watt, really heavily=built Vector Maxx 3000 (model VEC051) for $429. Hope you gots plenty of house batteries...(c; ============================== Or here for $332.95: http://www.audioallies.com/getitem.a...=VEC051&Sys=FR Coming late to the party, but as this is the next phase in the refit, I thought I'd take a look. So, given that it's just some outlets, and not a supply to a mains distribution, with all that wattage, how would we normally use it? Seems this is really just a high-draw local unit, as opposed to the inverter as used in a boat's distribution setup. Did I miss something (either in this or the usual boat inverter setup)? L8R Skip, shocked :{)) -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain |
"Skip Gundlach" skipgundlach sez use my name at earthlink dot fishcatcher
(net) - with apologies for the spamtrap wrote in news:U_adnfvc2erMnKbfRVn- : Skip, shocked :{)) Suit yersef....(c; |
And, the answer to the question is: ???
(reminder from original: So, given that it's just some outlets, and not a supply to a mains distribution, with all that wattage, how would we normally use it? Seems this is really just a high-draw local unit, as opposed to the inverter as used in a boat's distribution setup. Did I miss something (either in this or the usual boat inverter setup)? L8R Skip, not en light end :{)) -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain "Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... "Skip Gundlach" skipgundlach sez use my name at earthlink dot fishcatcher (net) - with apologies for the spamtrap wrote in news:U_adnfvc2erMnKbfRVn- : Skip, shocked :{)) Suit yersef....(c; |
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On Fri, 18 Mar 2005 18:29:58 -0500, Larry W4CSC
wrote: "Nothing is funnier than a boater with a new 4KW inverter carrying his electric heater down the dock with that smug grin on his face....(c;" ================================================== == 4 KW? No problem: http://solarwindworks.com/Products/B.../batteries.htm There are many new boats being equipped right from the factory with 10 to 12 KW inverters, gigundo battery banks and automatic generator start. http://tinyurl.com/5tqud You just need a bigger boat. |
Hi, Larry, and thanks for the thought provoking, left below for reference.
However, one snippet which I don't understand - can you elaborate? I doubt many here will be powering the shore power throughout the boat with the battery killing inverter, don't you?..... Battery killing inverter? Most of what I read these days suggests a static load of well under an amp, some are milliamps. Running any electrical device will kill a battery eventually if it's not got the power replaced (which we expect to do in spades, or, as you've noted, our own power company should be able to cope with extended periods of no-replacement) - how's this different? We have yet to decide about the capacity of the inverter we'll use. Likely the mikey or coffeemaker will be the biggest draw; I assume that will want something on the order of 1500w. I have a 1/3hp grinder/polisher and a skilsaw which might also have a pretty good startup load, so I'm thinking of 2kw as my "solution" to house power. As we next to never expect to be at shorepower except during haulouts (and even then, should have no particular need, with our solar and wind), we'll want to make our various outlets be both - inverter and shorepower. As we don't yet know how we'll use the computer and entertainment stuff, we assume we'll want to have our outlets available everywhere they are now, as well as some other places I'll install in the next few weeks. None of those loads are very big, of course, but running drop cords isn't my ideal power solution, even if they are in raceways. So, back to the question of central power (and switchability for shore power/house power) and what to do... L8R Skip and Lydia, inching toward completion -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain "Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... Why can't we just plug the loads into it? Plug the boat into it, if you like....just like the dock. Of course, you'd should install a transfer switch to keep you from feeding the dock into it, or any other inverter that doesn't have one. Most things on Lionheart run on DC. A couple of things that don't are the little microwave oven we paid $15 (new!) for and the laptop power supply and printer power supply for WEFAX charts at sea. For those, we have a 1KW Radio Shack inverter mounted right next to the battery switches inside the engine compartment over the monsters to keep the inverter fan noise out of the boat and the big cables to it to a minimum length. A length of #14 drop cord snakes its way through to overstuffed wireways to the nav station where I installed a 115VAC standard 6-outlet power strip to plug the various computer loads into it. A second custom drop cord runs from the inverter to a dual outlet in a handibox behind the microwave in the galley. I also ran a control cable from the power switch inside the inverter over to a microswitch mounted on a neat little plate in a hole at the nav station used by the former owner for something that needed filling. This gives the inverter remote control to switch it on and off. A panel-mounted neon indicator connected to the 120VAC in the nav station power strip lets me know the inverter is on and, in fact, producing 120VAC power. When the microwave is running, my DC clamp-on ammeter shows it drawing about 33A at 13.8VDC to heat dinner. Even at the dock, the microwave runs off the inverter. We plug the computer stuff into a shore-power outlet by the inverter's power strip. I doubt many here will be powering the shore power throughout the boat with the battery killing inverter, don't you?..... 3KW is way overkill because the boats can't provide DC to 3KW for very long.... |
"Skip Gundlach" skipgundlach sez use my name at earthlink dot
fishcatcher (net) - with apologies for the spamtrap wrote in : Hi, Larry, and thanks for the thought provoking, left below for reference. However, one snippet which I don't understand - can you elaborate? I doubt many here will be powering the shore power throughout the boat with the battery killing inverter, don't you?..... Battery killing inverter? Most of what I read these days suggests a static load of well under an amp, some are milliamps. Running any electrical device will kill a battery eventually if it's not got the power replaced (which we expect to do in spades, or, as you've noted, our own power company should be able to cope with extended periods of no-replacement) - how's this different? Do the math. Let's say we have a BIG inverter, 4KW continuous. This is great for TEMPORARY loads that need 4KW for a few minutes, like your coffee maker. But, as I jokingly put it, may boaters think they have their own "power station" when they buy one of these beasts. Case in point: 1500W heater - 12.5A@120VAC - about 120A at 13V.....x 24 hrs = 2880AH To provide for a simple electric heater and only drawing the battery banks down to 70%, not zero which destroys them....2880/.30 (30% of battery capacity) = 9,600AH battery bank. How big did you say those cells were?...(c; Hence my comment, "The funniest thing is to see a boater with a new 4KW inverter carrying his electric heater down the dock with that smug grin on his face." I've seen them incredulous that their 5KW inverter can't run the boat's air conditioner for the weekend anchored out. Math is not one of their majors...(c; We have yet to decide about the capacity of the inverter we'll use. Likely the mikey or coffeemaker will be the biggest draw; I assume that will want something on the order of 1500w. I have a 1/3hp grinder/polisher and a skilsaw which might also have a pretty good startup load, so I'm thinking of 2kw as my "solution" to house power. 2KW is fine.....for INTERMITTENT loads. As we next to never expect to be at shorepower except during haulouts (and even then, should have no particular need, with our solar and wind), we'll want to make our various outlets be both - inverter and shorepower. Hmm...5A from a big solar panel or 15A from a wind generator = 5X12hrs=60AH per day if the sun shines or 360AH wind power in a full gale 24/7. Not much of a real powerhouse, is it, huge batteries or small batteries... Plan on using the big alternator on the engine every day in this configuration. As we don't yet know how we'll use the computer and entertainment stuff, we assume we'll want to have our outlets available everywhere they are now, as well as some other places I'll install in the next few weeks. None of those loads are very big, of course, but running drop cords isn't my ideal power solution, even if they are in raceways. So, back to the question of central power (and switchability for shore power/house power) and what to do... The "drop cords" aren't laying around. You can use electrical cable if you like, wired into the boat. The inverter electrical system on Lionheart is wired into the boat and plugged into the inverter. As to powering the boat from shore and inverter, you install a transfer switch between the sources, ensuring the inverter is never connected in parallel with the power company from the dock. It's, essentially, a double pole switch, mounted in a box with a lockout so you can't run both, simultaneously. Any home generator transfer switch will work on your inverter system. |
On Sat, 19 Mar 2005 23:58:23 -0500, Larry W4CSC
wrote: As to powering the boat from shore and inverter, you install a transfer switch between the sources, ensuring the inverter is never connected in parallel with the power company from the dock. It's, essentially, a double pole switch, mounted in a box with a lockout so you can't run both, simultaneously. Any home generator transfer switch will work on your inverter system. ========================== The better grades of marine inverter/chargers have built in, automatic transfer switches. This is the most convenient arrangement for permanent installations. The inverter has a hard wired AC input coming from your distribution panel, and a hard wired AC output going back to the panel. When the inverter senses AC voltage on the input side (either from your generator or shorepower), it automatically switches out of invert mode and into charge mode. Unfortunately these units are considerably more expensive than the Walmart variety but they are really the right way to go for a long term installation. Practical Sailor just reviewed inverter/chargers and recommended the new Xantrex MS2000. A quick Google search popped up a few sites selling it for about $1500. http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/ms2000.html |
Hi, Y'all...
Well... "Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... (Me, he) Battery killing inverter? Most of what I read these days suggests a static load of well under an amp, some are milliamps. Running any electrical device will kill a battery eventually if it's not got the power replaced (which we expect to do in spades, or, as you've noted, our own power company should be able to cope with extended periods of no-replacement) - how's this different? Do the math. Let's say we have a BIG inverter, 4KW continuous. This is great for TEMPORARY loads that need 4KW for a few minutes, like your coffee maker. But, as I jokingly put it, may boaters think they have their own "power station" when they buy one of these beasts. Case in point: 1500W heater - 12.5A@120VAC - about 120A at 13V.....x 24 hrs = 2880AH To provide for a simple electric heater and only drawing the battery banks down to 70%, not zero which destroys them....2880/.30 (30% of battery capacity) = 9,600AH battery bank. How big did you say those cells were?...(c; Hence my comment, "The funniest thing is to see a boater with a new 4KW inverter carrying his electric heater down the dock with that smug grin on his face." I've seen them incredulous that their 5KW inverter can't run the boat's air conditioner for the weekend anchored out. Math is not one of their majors...(c; Yes - but apparently you're assuming there's lots of continous load. Like Lionheart, there will be only very incidental use of AC; everything else will be 12V. So, I presume it's a non-issue here. That is, inverters are not inherently "battery killers" - only continuous large loads are "battery killers" (?). We'll not have any such. As we next to never expect to be at shorepower except during haulouts (and even then, should have no particular need, with our solar and wind), we'll want to make our various outlets be both - inverter and shorepower. Hmm...5A from a big solar panel or 15A from a wind generator = 5X12hrs=60AH per day if the sun shines or 360AH wind power in a full gale 24/7. Not much of a real powerhouse, is it, huge batteries or small batteries... Plan on using the big alternator on the engine every day in this configuration. Hm. Help me with the math. As a lapsed math, physics and chem major, I don't remember my stuff all that well. However, I'll have right in the neighborhood of 500W solar, and a KISS wind generator in the Caribbean. Various vendors suggest I take the wattage and divide by 3, or 4 if really lousy weather, for a reasonable typical AH input, daily. My math has that at 170-125AH/day, plus some other unknown - but apparently pretty substantial - AH from a KISS. Our anticipated daily budget is about 125AH; we'll have (for simplicity in this calculation) ~1250AH capacity. It's our presumption that we'll have 4-5 days capacity, in the most unimaginable (in the Caribbean) circumstance of continuous no wind or sun. Have I missed something here? The "drop cords" aren't laying around. You can use electrical cable if you like, wired into the boat. The inverter electrical system on Lionheart is wired into the boat and plugged into the inverter. All of the current house locations are already wired. I'll only be adding a few. As to powering the boat from shore and inverter, you install a transfer switch between the sources, ensuring the inverter is never connected in parallel with the power company from the dock. It's, essentially, a double pole switch, mounted in a box with a lockout so you can't run both, simultaneously. Any home generator transfer switch will work on your inverter system. Given. It's the "plug this 3-prong into your Sam's Club inverter" part I don't like. On another's comment in this thread, I've seen enough negative comments (including some agreement from my expected vendor) about Xantrex to want to avoid them. I recognize that solar and wind are relatively few in the total cruiser universe, so my sample potential here is limited. However, plunging ahead, I solicit positive experience stories about inverters (and, for that matter, systems) used with large solar and wind inputs. Thanks. L8R Skip (about to head back to the boat for another couple weeks, this time, this part, of the refit) -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "There is nothing-absolutely nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter, that's the charm of it. Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not." |
In article ,
Wayne.B wrote: The inverter has a hard wired AC input coming from your distribution panel, and a hard wired AC output going back to the panel. Please clarify the above, as wiring both the input and output of an inverter to a distribution panel IS really a bad idea, and doesn't conform to ABS or NEC codes........ Me |
We have a 1KW inverter and it suns everything we need. THe microwave is
the biggest load. Doug "Skip Gundlach" skipgundlach sez use my name at earthlink dot fishcatcher (net) - with apologies for the spamtrap wrote in message ... Hi, Larry, and thanks for the thought provoking, left below for reference. However, one snippet which I don't understand - can you elaborate? I doubt many here will be powering the shore power throughout the boat with the battery killing inverter, don't you?..... Battery killing inverter? Most of what I read these days suggests a static load of well under an amp, some are milliamps. Running any electrical device will kill a battery eventually if it's not got the power replaced (which we expect to do in spades, or, as you've noted, our own power company should be able to cope with extended periods of no-replacement) - how's this different? We have yet to decide about the capacity of the inverter we'll use. Likely the mikey or coffeemaker will be the biggest draw; I assume that will want something on the order of 1500w. I have a 1/3hp grinder/polisher and a skilsaw which might also have a pretty good startup load, so I'm thinking of 2kw as my "solution" to house power. As we next to never expect to be at shorepower except during haulouts (and even then, should have no particular need, with our solar and wind), we'll want to make our various outlets be both - inverter and shorepower. As we don't yet know how we'll use the computer and entertainment stuff, we assume we'll want to have our outlets available everywhere they are now, as well as some other places I'll install in the next few weeks. None of those loads are very big, of course, but running drop cords isn't my ideal power solution, even if they are in raceways. So, back to the question of central power (and switchability for shore power/house power) and what to do... L8R Skip and Lydia, inching toward completion -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain "Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... Why can't we just plug the loads into it? Plug the boat into it, if you like....just like the dock. Of course, you'd should install a transfer switch to keep you from feeding the dock into it, or any other inverter that doesn't have one. Most things on Lionheart run on DC. A couple of things that don't are the little microwave oven we paid $15 (new!) for and the laptop power supply and printer power supply for WEFAX charts at sea. For those, we have a 1KW Radio Shack inverter mounted right next to the battery switches inside the engine compartment over the monsters to keep the inverter fan noise out of the boat and the big cables to it to a minimum length. A length of #14 drop cord snakes its way through to overstuffed wireways to the nav station where I installed a 115VAC standard 6-outlet power strip to plug the various computer loads into it. A second custom drop cord runs from the inverter to a dual outlet in a handibox behind the microwave in the galley. I also ran a control cable from the power switch inside the inverter over to a microswitch mounted on a neat little plate in a hole at the nav station used by the former owner for something that needed filling. This gives the inverter remote control to switch it on and off. A panel-mounted neon indicator connected to the 120VAC in the nav station power strip lets me know the inverter is on and, in fact, producing 120VAC power. When the microwave is running, my DC clamp-on ammeter shows it drawing about 33A at 13.8VDC to heat dinner. Even at the dock, the microwave runs off the inverter. We plug the computer stuff into a shore-power outlet by the inverter's power strip. I doubt many here will be powering the shore power throughout the boat with the battery killing inverter, don't you?..... 3KW is way overkill because the boats can't provide DC to 3KW for very long.... |
I don;t see what the problems is. An inverter represents a load on the DC
system. It has be be managed the same as any other load. No magic, no mystery. The biggest load on our boat is the microwave. 100A for 2 or three minutes, no problem. The inverter itself is no demon. The usage is the thing that has to be managed. Doug "Skip Gundlach" skipgundlach sez use my name at earthlink dot fishcatcher (net) - with apologies for the spamtrap wrote in message ... Hi, Y'all... Well... "Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... (Me, he) Battery killing inverter? Most of what I read these days suggests a static load of well under an amp, some are milliamps. Running any electrical device will kill a battery eventually if it's not got the power replaced (which we expect to do in spades, or, as you've noted, our own power company should be able to cope with extended periods of no-replacement) - how's this different? Do the math. Let's say we have a BIG inverter, 4KW continuous. This is great for TEMPORARY loads that need 4KW for a few minutes, like your coffee maker. But, as I jokingly put it, may boaters think they have their own "power station" when they buy one of these beasts. Case in point: 1500W heater - 12.5A@120VAC - about 120A at 13V.....x 24 hrs = 2880AH To provide for a simple electric heater and only drawing the battery banks down to 70%, not zero which destroys them....2880/.30 (30% of battery capacity) = 9,600AH battery bank. How big did you say those cells were?...(c; Hence my comment, "The funniest thing is to see a boater with a new 4KW inverter carrying his electric heater down the dock with that smug grin on his face." I've seen them incredulous that their 5KW inverter can't run the boat's air conditioner for the weekend anchored out. Math is not one of their majors...(c; Yes - but apparently you're assuming there's lots of continous load. Like Lionheart, there will be only very incidental use of AC; everything else will be 12V. So, I presume it's a non-issue here. That is, inverters are not inherently "battery killers" - only continuous large loads are "battery killers" (?). We'll not have any such. As we next to never expect to be at shorepower except during haulouts (and even then, should have no particular need, with our solar and wind), we'll want to make our various outlets be both - inverter and shorepower. Hmm...5A from a big solar panel or 15A from a wind generator = 5X12hrs=60AH per day if the sun shines or 360AH wind power in a full gale 24/7. Not much of a real powerhouse, is it, huge batteries or small batteries... Plan on using the big alternator on the engine every day in this configuration. Hm. Help me with the math. As a lapsed math, physics and chem major, I don't remember my stuff all that well. However, I'll have right in the neighborhood of 500W solar, and a KISS wind generator in the Caribbean. Various vendors suggest I take the wattage and divide by 3, or 4 if really lousy weather, for a reasonable typical AH input, daily. My math has that at 170-125AH/day, plus some other unknown - but apparently pretty substantial - AH from a KISS. Our anticipated daily budget is about 125AH; we'll have (for simplicity in this calculation) ~1250AH capacity. It's our presumption that we'll have 4-5 days capacity, in the most unimaginable (in the Caribbean) circumstance of continuous no wind or sun. Have I missed something here? The "drop cords" aren't laying around. You can use electrical cable if you like, wired into the boat. The inverter electrical system on Lionheart is wired into the boat and plugged into the inverter. All of the current house locations are already wired. I'll only be adding a few. As to powering the boat from shore and inverter, you install a transfer switch between the sources, ensuring the inverter is never connected in parallel with the power company from the dock. It's, essentially, a double pole switch, mounted in a box with a lockout so you can't run both, simultaneously. Any home generator transfer switch will work on your inverter system. Given. It's the "plug this 3-prong into your Sam's Club inverter" part I don't like. On another's comment in this thread, I've seen enough negative comments (including some agreement from my expected vendor) about Xantrex to want to avoid them. I recognize that solar and wind are relatively few in the total cruiser universe, so my sample potential here is limited. However, plunging ahead, I solicit positive experience stories about inverters (and, for that matter, systems) used with large solar and wind inputs. Thanks. L8R Skip (about to head back to the boat for another couple weeks, this time, this part, of the refit) -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "There is nothing-absolutely nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter, that's the charm of it. Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not." |
On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 18:47:47 GMT, Me wrote:
In article , Wayne.B wrote: The inverter has a hard wired AC input coming from your distribution panel, and a hard wired AC output going back to the panel. Please clarify the above, as wiring both the input and output of an inverter to a distribution panel IS really a bad idea, and doesn't conform to ABS or NEC codes........ The panel would be split in some way, so the inverter output can't be connected back to its own input. One possibility would be to have a breaker feeding only the inverter/charger, and the inverter's output feeding a couple of breakers that are electrically isolated from the main input - those breakers would get power only through the inverter's transfer relay. -- Peter Bennett, VE7CEI peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca |
The long winded point is that a 900AH Battery and an inverter will not run a
Heater or an Air Conditioner 24/7 through the weekend without being able to recharge the batteries at substantial rate. A good sized generator will be needed! "Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote in message ... I don;t see what the problems is. An inverter represents a load on the DC system. It has be be managed the same as any other load. No magic, no mystery. The biggest load on our boat is the microwave. 100A for 2 or three minutes, no problem. The inverter itself is no demon. The usage is the thing that has to be managed. Doug "Skip Gundlach" skipgundlach sez use my name at earthlink dot fishcatcher (net) - with apologies for the spamtrap wrote in message ... Hi, Y'all... Well... "Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... (Me, he) Battery killing inverter? Most of what I read these days suggests a static load of well under an amp, some are milliamps. Running any electrical device will kill a battery eventually if it's not got the power replaced (which we expect to do in spades, or, as you've noted, our own power company should be able to cope with extended periods of no-replacement) - how's this different? Do the math. Let's say we have a BIG inverter, 4KW continuous. This is great for TEMPORARY loads that need 4KW for a few minutes, like your coffee maker. But, as I jokingly put it, may boaters think they have their own "power station" when they buy one of these beasts. Case in point: 1500W heater - 12.5A@120VAC - about 120A at 13V.....x 24 hrs = 2880AH To provide for a simple electric heater and only drawing the battery banks down to 70%, not zero which destroys them....2880/.30 (30% of battery capacity) = 9,600AH battery bank. How big did you say those cells were?...(c; Hence my comment, "The funniest thing is to see a boater with a new 4KW inverter carrying his electric heater down the dock with that smug grin on his face." I've seen them incredulous that their 5KW inverter can't run the boat's air conditioner for the weekend anchored out. Math is not one of their majors...(c; Yes - but apparently you're assuming there's lots of continous load. Like Lionheart, there will be only very incidental use of AC; everything else will be 12V. So, I presume it's a non-issue here. That is, inverters are not inherently "battery killers" - only continuous large loads are "battery killers" (?). We'll not have any such. As we next to never expect to be at shorepower except during haulouts (and even then, should have no particular need, with our solar and wind), we'll want to make our various outlets be both - inverter and shorepower. Hmm...5A from a big solar panel or 15A from a wind generator = 5X12hrs=60AH per day if the sun shines or 360AH wind power in a full gale 24/7. Not much of a real powerhouse, is it, huge batteries or small batteries... Plan on using the big alternator on the engine every day in this configuration. Hm. Help me with the math. As a lapsed math, physics and chem major, I don't remember my stuff all that well. However, I'll have right in the neighborhood of 500W solar, and a KISS wind generator in the Caribbean. Various vendors suggest I take the wattage and divide by 3, or 4 if really lousy weather, for a reasonable typical AH input, daily. My math has that at 170-125AH/day, plus some other unknown - but apparently pretty substantial - AH from a KISS. Our anticipated daily budget is about 125AH; we'll have (for simplicity in this calculation) ~1250AH capacity. It's our presumption that we'll have 4-5 days capacity, in the most unimaginable (in the Caribbean) circumstance of continuous no wind or sun. Have I missed something here? The "drop cords" aren't laying around. You can use electrical cable if you like, wired into the boat. The inverter electrical system on Lionheart is wired into the boat and plugged into the inverter. All of the current house locations are already wired. I'll only be adding a few. As to powering the boat from shore and inverter, you install a transfer switch between the sources, ensuring the inverter is never connected in parallel with the power company from the dock. It's, essentially, a double pole switch, mounted in a box with a lockout so you can't run both, simultaneously. Any home generator transfer switch will work on your inverter system. Given. It's the "plug this 3-prong into your Sam's Club inverter" part I don't like. On another's comment in this thread, I've seen enough negative comments (including some agreement from my expected vendor) about Xantrex to want to avoid them. I recognize that solar and wind are relatively few in the total cruiser universe, so my sample potential here is limited. However, plunging ahead, I solicit positive experience stories about inverters (and, for that matter, systems) used with large solar and wind inputs. Thanks. L8R Skip (about to head back to the boat for another couple weeks, this time, this part, of the refit) -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "There is nothing-absolutely nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter, that's the charm of it. Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not." |
"John Cassara" wrote in message ... The long winded point is that a 900AH Battery and an inverter will not run a Heater or an Air Conditioner 24/7 through the weekend without being able to recharge the batteries at substantial rate. A good sized generator will be needed! Absolutely! No heater or AC can be run off of an inverter in any practical manner. "Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote in message ... I don;t see what the problems is. An inverter represents a load on the DC system. It has be be managed the same as any other load. No magic, no mystery. The biggest load on our boat is the microwave. 100A for 2 or three minutes, no problem. The inverter itself is no demon. The usage is the thing that has to be managed. Doug "Skip Gundlach" skipgundlach sez use my name at earthlink dot fishcatcher (net) - with apologies for the spamtrap wrote in message ... Hi, Y'all... Well... "Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... (Me, he) Battery killing inverter? Most of what I read these days suggests a static load of well under an amp, some are milliamps. Running any electrical device will kill a battery eventually if it's not got the power replaced (which we expect to do in spades, or, as you've noted, our own power company should be able to cope with extended periods of no-replacement) - how's this different? Do the math. Let's say we have a BIG inverter, 4KW continuous. This is great for TEMPORARY loads that need 4KW for a few minutes, like your coffee maker. But, as I jokingly put it, may boaters think they have their own "power station" when they buy one of these beasts. Case in point: 1500W heater - 12.5A@120VAC - about 120A at 13V.....x 24 hrs = 2880AH To provide for a simple electric heater and only drawing the battery banks down to 70%, not zero which destroys them....2880/.30 (30% of battery capacity) = 9,600AH battery bank. How big did you say those cells were?...(c; Hence my comment, "The funniest thing is to see a boater with a new 4KW inverter carrying his electric heater down the dock with that smug grin on his face." I've seen them incredulous that their 5KW inverter can't run the boat's air conditioner for the weekend anchored out. Math is not one of their majors...(c; Yes - but apparently you're assuming there's lots of continous load. Like Lionheart, there will be only very incidental use of AC; everything else will be 12V. So, I presume it's a non-issue here. That is, inverters are not inherently "battery killers" - only continuous large loads are "battery killers" (?). We'll not have any such. As we next to never expect to be at shorepower except during haulouts (and even then, should have no particular need, with our solar and wind), we'll want to make our various outlets be both - inverter and shorepower. Hmm...5A from a big solar panel or 15A from a wind generator = 5X12hrs=60AH per day if the sun shines or 360AH wind power in a full gale 24/7. Not much of a real powerhouse, is it, huge batteries or small batteries... Plan on using the big alternator on the engine every day in this configuration. Hm. Help me with the math. As a lapsed math, physics and chem major, I don't remember my stuff all that well. However, I'll have right in the neighborhood of 500W solar, and a KISS wind generator in the Caribbean. Various vendors suggest I take the wattage and divide by 3, or 4 if really lousy weather, for a reasonable typical AH input, daily. My math has that at 170-125AH/day, plus some other unknown - but apparently pretty substantial - AH from a KISS. Our anticipated daily budget is about 125AH; we'll have (for simplicity in this calculation) ~1250AH capacity. It's our presumption that we'll have 4-5 days capacity, in the most unimaginable (in the Caribbean) circumstance of continuous no wind or sun. Have I missed something here? The "drop cords" aren't laying around. You can use electrical cable if you like, wired into the boat. The inverter electrical system on Lionheart is wired into the boat and plugged into the inverter. All of the current house locations are already wired. I'll only be adding a few. As to powering the boat from shore and inverter, you install a transfer switch between the sources, ensuring the inverter is never connected in parallel with the power company from the dock. It's, essentially, a double pole switch, mounted in a box with a lockout so you can't run both, simultaneously. Any home generator transfer switch will work on your inverter system. Given. It's the "plug this 3-prong into your Sam's Club inverter" part I don't like. On another's comment in this thread, I've seen enough negative comments (including some agreement from my expected vendor) about Xantrex to want to avoid them. I recognize that solar and wind are relatively few in the total cruiser universe, so my sample potential here is limited. However, plunging ahead, I solicit positive experience stories about inverters (and, for that matter, systems) used with large solar and wind inputs. Thanks. L8R Skip (about to head back to the boat for another couple weeks, this time, this part, of the refit) -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "There is nothing-absolutely nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter, that's the charm of it. Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not." |
On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 18:47:47 GMT, Me wrote:
In article , Wayne.B wrote: The inverter has a hard wired AC input coming from your distribution panel, and a hard wired AC output going back to the panel. Please clarify the above, as wiring both the input and output of an inverter to a distribution panel IS really a bad idea, and doesn't conform to ABS or NEC codes........ ============================================ The distribution panel (or behind it) is usually the only place where you can find a centralized point where you can interrupt the power. The inverter has to be wired in such a way that it can never see an independant source of AC power at its output terminals. As long as both the AC input to the inverter/charger and the inverter output pass through seperate circuit breakers, there should be no issue with wiring codes. How would you do it? |
Wayne.B wrote in
: Practical Sailor just reviewed inverter/chargers and recommended the new Xantrex MS2000. Question - Is there an ad for Xantrex (or any of its associated companies) in Practical Sailor? Take a look. The PRIMARY purpose of ANY boating magazine is to SELL PRODUCTS. That's why they all look like spam, including those "reviews". Every see Practical Sailor say, "This product sucks!"? |
"Skip Gundlach" skipgundlach sez use my name at earthlink dot
fishcatcher (net) - with apologies for the spamtrap wrote in : Hm. Help me with the math. As a lapsed math, physics and chem major, I don't remember my stuff all that well. However, I'll have right in the neighborhood of 500W solar How big are these solar panels? A Kyocera KC120 panel at 120 watts is: Max power: 120 Watts Max voltage: 16.9 Volts Max current: 7.10 Amps Dimensions (LxWxD): 56.1" x 25.7" x 2.2" Weight: 26.3 lbs 4 of those kinda hinders going on deck, I suppose. Or, do you mean 500 watt-hours per day?? 500 watts x 8 hours = 4 KWh/day...pretty nice! , and a KISS wind generator in the Caribbean. Various vendors suggest I take the wattage and divide by 3, or 4 if really lousy weather, for a reasonable typical AH input, daily. My math has that at 170-125AH/day, plus some other unknown - but apparently pretty substantial - AH from a KISS. Solar is useless on cloudy days, but that's when the wind is usually blowing so you got it covered. Speaking of wind power, have you see http://www.otherpower.com/ These homebrewers are really producing KWh! Our anticipated daily budget is about 125AH; we'll have (for simplicity in this calculation) ~1250AH capacity. It's our presumption that we'll have 4-5 days capacity, in the most unimaginable (in the Caribbean) circumstance of continuous no wind or sun. Have I missed something here? No, not at all. The big inverters are great for QUICK and TEMPORARY loads, even heavy loads if the battery banks can produce the heavy load currents without sagging a lot. Too bad boats don't use 48 volts instead of "car power". The whole thing becomes much more efficient as the voltage rises. |
"Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote in
: Absolutely! No heater or AC can be run off of an inverter in any practical manner. You would be amazed at how many sailors buying 4KW inverters cannot comprehend this concept..... Of course, these sailors have money (lawyers, doctors, businesspersons). Ever watch a lawyer load new batteries into a flashlight?...(c; |
Last I knew, PS doesn;t do ads.
"Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... Wayne.B wrote in : Practical Sailor just reviewed inverter/chargers and recommended the new Xantrex MS2000. Question - Is there an ad for Xantrex (or any of its associated companies) in Practical Sailor? Take a look. The PRIMARY purpose of ANY boating magazine is to SELL PRODUCTS. That's why they all look like spam, including those "reviews". Every see Practical Sailor say, "This product sucks!"? |
"Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... "Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote in : Absolutely! No heater or AC can be run off of an inverter in any practical manner. You would be amazed at how many sailors buying 4KW inverters cannot comprehend this concept..... No I wouldn't :) Of course, these sailors have money (lawyers, doctors, businesspersons). Ever watch a lawyer load new batteries into a flashlight?...(c; |
"Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... "Skip Gundlach" skipgundlach sez use my name at earthlink dot fishcatcher (net) - with apologies for the spamtrap wrote in : Hm. Help me with the math. As a lapsed math, physics and chem major, I don't remember my stuff all that well. However, I'll have right in the neighborhood of 500W solar How big are these solar panels? A Kyocera KC120 panel at 120 watts is: Max power: 120 Watts Not really. That is advertising hype. Max voltage: 16.9 Volts Max current: 7.10 Amps Dimensions (LxWxD): 56.1" x 25.7" x 2.2" Weight: 26.3 lbs 4 of those kinda hinders going on deck, I suppose. Or, do you mean 500 watt-hours per day?? 500 watts x 8 hours = 4 KWh/day...pretty nice! Useful power is more like 4 hours a day. 10AM to 2PM. Before and after it is vastly reduced. , and a KISS wind generator in the Caribbean. Various vendors suggest I take the wattage and divide by 3, or 4 if really lousy weather, for a reasonable typical AH input, daily. My math has that at 170-125AH/day, plus some other unknown - but apparently pretty substantial - AH from a KISS. KISS is a great generator. Solar is useless on cloudy days, but that's when the wind is usually blowing so you got it covered. Depends upon where you are. Speaking of wind power, have you see http://www.otherpower.com/ These homebrewers are really producing KWh! Sure, with 6' or better blades. Our anticipated daily budget is about 125AH; we'll have (for simplicity in this calculation) ~1250AH capacity. It's our presumption that we'll have 4-5 days capacity, in the most unimaginable (in the Caribbean) circumstance of continuous no wind or sun. Have I missed something here? No, not at all. The big inverters are great for QUICK and TEMPORARY loads, even heavy loads if the battery banks can produce the heavy load currents without sagging a lot. Too bad boats don't use 48 volts instead of "car power". The whole thing becomes much more efficient as the voltage rises. |
Practical Sailor does not take and, while they are not prone to the less
acceptable vernacular, they have no reservation about saying a product doesn't work all that well. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com "Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... Wayne.B wrote in : Practical Sailor just reviewed inverter/chargers and recommended the new Xantrex MS2000. Question - Is there an ad for Xantrex (or any of its associated companies) in Practical Sailor? Take a look. The PRIMARY purpose of ANY boating magazine is to SELL PRODUCTS. That's why they all look like spam, including those "reviews". Every see Practical Sailor say, "This product sucks!"? |
On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 21:05:19 -0500, Larry W4CSC
wrote: Wayne.B wrote in : Practical Sailor just reviewed inverter/chargers and recommended the new Xantrex MS2000. Question - Is there an ad for Xantrex (or any of its associated companies) in Practical Sailor? Take a look. The PRIMARY purpose of ANY boating magazine is to SELL PRODUCTS. That's why they all look like spam, including those "reviews". Every see Practical Sailor say, "This product sucks!"? =========================================== Have you ever read Pracitcal Sailor? They are an (expensive) newsletter that carrys no ads whatsoever. Are they totally unbiased? Who knows, they may have preferences and prejudices like everyone else. Have they ever said that a product sucks? Not in so many words but they've come close quite a few times. They may not be perfect, and I sometimes disagree with their choices, but overall I know of no better source of product information. |
On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 21:23:15 -0500, Larry W4CSC
wrote: Too bad boats don't use 48 volts instead of "car power". The whole thing becomes much more efficient as the voltage rises. =========================================== It's not unheard of to use a 48 volt inverter bank. You lose the ability to tie into your alternators for charging but if you have reduntant generators and inverters that is not really an issue. |
On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 19:38:13 -0500, "John Cassara"
wrote: The long winded point is that a 900AH Battery and an inverter will not run a Heater all weekend. ================================= That's true but it will run a heater for 7 or 8 hours at night which is all you really need (assuming you can recharge in the morning). |
On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 21:23:15 -0500, Larry W4CSC
wrote: "Skip Gundlach" skipgundlach sez use my name at earthlink dot fishcatcher (net) - with apologies for the spamtrap wrote in : Hm. Help me with the math. As a lapsed math, physics and chem major, I don't remember my stuff all that well. However, I'll have right in the neighborhood of 500W solar How big are these solar panels? A Kyocera KC120 panel at 120 watts is: Max power: 120 Watts Max voltage: 16.9 Volts Max current: 7.10 Amps Dimensions (LxWxD): 56.1" x 25.7" x 2.2" Weight: 26.3 lbs 4 of those kinda hinders going on deck, I suppose. Or, do you mean 500 watt-hours per day?? 500 watts x 8 hours = 4 KWh/day...pretty nice! , and a KISS wind generator in the Caribbean. Various vendors suggest I take the wattage and divide by 3, or 4 if really lousy weather, for a reasonable typical AH input, daily. My math has that at 170-125AH/day, plus some other unknown - but apparently pretty substantial - AH from a KISS. Solar is useless on cloudy days, but that's when the wind is usually blowing so you got it covered. Speaking of wind power, have you see http://www.otherpower.com/ These homebrewers are really producing KWh! Our anticipated daily budget is about 125AH; we'll have (for simplicity in this calculation) ~1250AH capacity. It's our presumption that we'll have 4-5 days capacity, in the most unimaginable (in the Caribbean) circumstance of continuous no wind or sun. Have I missed something here? No, not at all. The big inverters are great for QUICK and TEMPORARY loads, even heavy loads if the battery banks can produce the heavy load currents without sagging a lot. Too bad boats don't use 48 volts instead of "car power". The whole thing becomes much more efficient as the voltage rises. Design development is under way for 42 volt car systems Brian W |
"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
... Design development is under way for 42 volt car systems It's already there. AFAIK all new VW marine diesels have a 42V system to power the injectors. Meindert |
"Meindert Sprang" wrote in
: It's already there. AFAIK all new VW marine diesels have a 42V system to power the injectors. Meindert I think the Toyota Prius hybrid takes this even further with a 480VDC system, doesn't it? A friend has one and it's quite impressive, once you get used to NOT starting the engine to take off from the parking lot. That's a bit unnerving, just turning it on and driving away...(c; |
In article ,
Wayne.B wrote: The distribution panel (or behind it) is usually the only place where you can find a centralized point where you can interrupt the power. The inverter has to be wired in such a way that it can never see an independant source of AC power at its output terminals. As long as both the AC input to the inverter/charger and the inverter output pass through seperate circuit breakers, there should be no issue with wiring codes. How would you do it? Bzzzzt, Wrong answer..... would you like to try again, for what is behind Curtain No. 2 ? Never EVER have a Input Feed and an Output Feed in the same Panel and on the same buss. That has got to be the dumbest Idea I have ever seen, posted to a newsgroup, and "Totaly" against ABS and NEC Electrical Codes. Yes, it is possible to so such a thing, but to keep people from doing so, is why there are ABS and NEC codes in the first place. The correct way to do this is to have an Input Distribution Panel, and an Inverted Output Distribution Panel, and any interconnection directly between the two, would need to be thru an InterLocked Transfer Switch. Shore Power, Generator, would be interlocked so they are mutually exclusive inputs to the Input Distribution Panel. That panel then feeds all noninverted loads thru individual breakers, and the Inverter input, thru its own individual Breaker. The Output Distribution Panel would also have it's own individual breaker in the Input Distribution Panel for Transfer Power Feeds. Inverter output, Transfer Power Feed, would be interlocked so as to be mututally exclusive inputs to the Inverted Output Distribution Panel. All inverted power circuits would then be individually breakered from this panel. This keeps the Genset and Shorepower mutally exclusivly seperate from each other so as no combination of breaker settings could ever connect them together. This also keeps the Inverter Input and Output mutually exclusivly seperate from each other so that no combination of breaker settings could ever connect them together. Any other system, that does not provbide the above Mutual Exclusivity will certainly, and eventually, let out the MAGIC SMOKE, that makes the electrons run thru the wires. Either you, the mate, or just a friend aboard, will make a breaker setting mistake, and out will come the MAGIC SMOKE, and the results will be BAD..... Me |
Wayne.B wrote in
: Have you ever read Pracitcal Sailor? They are an (expensive) No, I haven't. I think I saw some little, few pages newsletter at Boat/US for $8. Is that it?? |
I think they do sell off the newstand now. I'm pretty sure
I saw one at West Marine. They generally run about 16 pages and boilerplate is maroon in color. Doug s/v Callista "Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... Wayne.B wrote in : Have you ever read Pracitcal Sailor? They are an (expensive) No, I haven't. I think I saw some little, few pages newsletter at Boat/US for $8. Is that it?? |
"Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 19:38:13 -0500, "John Cassara" wrote: The long winded point is that a 900AH Battery and an inverter will not run a Heater all weekend. ================================= That's true but it will run a heater for 7 or 8 hours at night which is all you really need (assuming you can recharge in the morning). Nope. Our Pelonus ceramic cube heater draws around 110A. With a 900AH battery bank you would be lucky to get 4 hours. Probably less since it is drawing much more than the 20 hour rate from which your 900AH rating is based. We have a 500AH+ bank in our mobile canvas shop. The heater is good for about an hour. Doug |
"Me" wrote in message ... In article , Wayne.B wrote: The distribution panel (or behind it) is usually the only place where you can find a centralized point where you can interrupt the power. The inverter has to be wired in such a way that it can never see an independant source of AC power at its output terminals. As long as both the AC input to the inverter/charger and the inverter output pass through seperate circuit breakers, there should be no issue with wiring codes. How would you do it? Bzzzzt, Wrong answer..... would you like to try again, for what is behind Curtain No. 2 ? Never EVER have a Input Feed and an Output Feed in the same Panel and on the same buss. That has got to be the dumbest Idea I have ever seen, posted to a newsgroup, and "Totaly" against ABS and NEC Electrical Codes. Yes, it is possible to so such a thing, but to keep people from doing so, is why there are ABS and NEC codes in the first place. The correct way to do this is to have an Input Distribution Panel, and an Inverted Output Distribution Panel, and any interconnection directly between the two, would need to be thru an InterLocked Transfer Switch. Shore Power, Generator, would be interlocked so they are mutually exclusive inputs to the Input Distribution Panel. That panel then feeds all noninverted loads thru individual breakers, and the Inverter input, thru its own individual Breaker. The Output Distribution Panel would also have it's own individual breaker in the Input Distribution Panel for Transfer Power Feeds. Inverter output, Transfer Power Feed, would be interlocked so as to be mututally exclusive inputs to the Inverted Output Distribution Panel. All inverted power circuits would then be individually breakered from this panel. This keeps the Genset and Shorepower mutally exclusivly seperate from each other so as no combination of breaker settings could ever connect them together. This also keeps the Inverter Input and Output mutually exclusivly seperate from each other so that no combination of breaker settings could ever connect them together. Any other system, that does not provbide the above Mutual Exclusivity will certainly, and eventually, let out the MAGIC SMOKE, that makes the electrons run thru the wires. Either you, the mate, or just a friend aboard, will make a breaker setting mistake, and out will come the MAGIC SMOKE, and the results will be BAD..... Me All ture, except the part about two separate panels. My main AC panel has interlocks for shore/genset/inverter plus distribution for 2 30A circuits. Off the shelf and ABYC accepted. |
Hi Doug
You mean 110 Volts not amps don't you? About 13.5 amps. JR; Doug Dotson wrote: "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 19:38:13 -0500, "John Cassara" wrote: The long winded point is that a 900AH Battery and an inverter will not run a Heater all weekend. ================================= That's true but it will run a heater for 7 or 8 hours at night which is all you really need (assuming you can recharge in the morning). Nope. Our Pelonus ceramic cube heater draws around 110A. With a 900AH battery bank you would be lucky to get 4 hours. Probably less since it is drawing much more than the 20 hour rate from which your 900AH rating is based. We have a 500AH+ bank in our mobile canvas shop. The heater is good for about an hour. Doug |
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