Used Urethane to cover the sole of the yacht. Can it be used in other
places in the interior (less UV than outside) or is varnish the only
way to go.
From what I have been able to discover Urethane will give a harder and
longer lasting finish than varnish. Will it look as good in 2-3 years.
Tony
S/V Ambrosia

In article .com,
says...
Used Urethane to cover the sole of the yacht. Can it be used in other
places in the interior (less UV than outside) or is varnish the only
way to go.
From what I have been able to discover Urethane will give a harder and
longer lasting finish than varnish. Will it look as good in 2-3 years.
Tony
S/V Ambrosia



Hopefully you have used a spar/marine type varnish. The spar/marine
varnish is what is know as a long oil varnish. That is, it contains a
higher ratio of curing oil to urethane resins then a non marine varnish.

This actually makes it a bit less hard and brittle then a non marine
varnish. A desired property that allows it to better accommodate the
movement of wood that is exposed to an exterior environment, and, of
course, there is the UV blockers found in marine varnish.

Since you are on a roll you are probably best off continuing on with the
varnish for the interior.

Note, the UV blockers in marine varnish loose their effectives after
awhile. Expect to renew the finish every year or two, depending on the
amount of exposure. If you wait for the point where you can visibly see
the varnish breaking down it has started to loose it's grip on the wood
and will most likely be cracking a flaking. Just over coating those kind
of flaws usually looks like hell and for appearance sake you would
probably end up having to strip the stuff.

Truth be told, urethane resins form a more brittle surface then the
resins used in old fashion varnish. If I were doing the job I would have
spent some time, if it is still available anywhere, hunting down a non
urethane spar/marine varnish. Long oil non urethane varnish would be
just that little bit more flexible the the urethane.

Hope it helps


--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net

Most people opt for varnish over polyurethane because of price. All the
high dollar boats have a insulator/sealer/polyurethane topcoat system.
Stuff is beautiful and last forever.

--
Shield Finishes and Nauticoat Marine Finish Systems
www.shieldfinishes.com
"Mike G" wrote in message
ews.com...
In article .com,
says...
Used Urethane to cover the sole of the yacht. Can it be used in other
places in the interior (less UV than outside) or is varnish the only
way to go.
From what I have been able to discover Urethane will give a harder and
longer lasting finish than varnish. Will it look as good in 2-3 years.
Tony
S/V Ambrosia



Hopefully you have used a spar/marine type varnish. The spar/marine
varnish is what is know as a long oil varnish. That is, it contains a
higher ratio of curing oil to urethane resins then a non marine varnish.

This actually makes it a bit less hard and brittle then a non marine
varnish. A desired property that allows it to better accommodate the
movement of wood that is exposed to an exterior environment, and, of
course, there is the UV blockers found in marine varnish.

Since you are on a roll you are probably best off continuing on with the
varnish for the interior.

Note, the UV blockers in marine varnish loose their effectives after
awhile. Expect to renew the finish every year or two, depending on the
amount of exposure. If you wait for the point where you can visibly see
the varnish breaking down it has started to loose it's grip on the wood
and will most likely be cracking a flaking. Just over coating those kind
of flaws usually looks like hell and for appearance sake you would
probably end up having to strip the stuff.

Truth be told, urethane resins form a more brittle surface then the
resins used in old fashion varnish. If I were doing the job I would have
spent some time, if it is still available anywhere, hunting down a non
urethane spar/marine varnish. Long oil non urethane varnish would be
just that little bit more flexible the the urethane.

Hope it helps


--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net

In article ,
says...
Most people opt for varnish over polyurethane because of price. All the
high dollar boats have a insulator/sealer/polyurethane topcoat system.
Stuff is beautiful and last forever.



I'm not familiar with the insulator/sealer/polyurethane system but it
sounds interesting.

However, if you walk into your local finish supplier or chandler's and
you pick up a quart of polyurethane off the shelf it is still a varnish.

Over the years, heck centuries, varnish has had many definitions. It's
mostly defined by it's make up during that time period.

Today it's usually accepted that a varnish is a combination of

Curing oils, be it linseed, tung, or these days, a modified soy oil,

Resins, in the old days these would have been natural resins, amber,
rosin, etc. Today they are synthetic. In other words plastic.

A Carrier/thinner. Usually mineral spirits.

Polyurethane shares the basic ingredients as the lower octane stuff but
it's resins form a stronger mechanical bond then the lesser varnishes so
it is kind of set off on it's own.

From a woodworking perspective, oddly enough, this is not necessary a
good thing.



--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net

The insulator is a clear polyurethane that is designed to penetrate the wood
and lock down the oils. The sealer is a UV clear polyester that fills the
grain and the aerospace grade polyurethane clear leaves a hard durable UV
resistant finish that will last for years. I have it on the teak on my boat
and it is untouched after a year in Florida. I expect to get 5 years plus
out of the system...maybe more if I am diligent in the upkeep.

--
Shield Finishes and Nauticoat Marine Finish Systems
www.shieldfinishes.com
"Mike G" wrote in message
ews.com...
In article ,
says...
Most people opt for varnish over polyurethane because of price. All the
high dollar boats have a insulator/sealer/polyurethane topcoat system.
Stuff is beautiful and last forever.



I'm not familiar with the insulator/sealer/polyurethane system but it
sounds interesting.

However, if you walk into your local finish supplier or chandler's and
you pick up a quart of polyurethane off the shelf it is still a varnish.

Over the years, heck centuries, varnish has had many definitions. It's
mostly defined by it's make up during that time period.

Today it's usually accepted that a varnish is a combination of

Curing oils, be it linseed, tung, or these days, a modified soy oil,

Resins, in the old days these would have been natural resins, amber,
rosin, etc. Today they are synthetic. In other words plastic.

A Carrier/thinner. Usually mineral spirits.

Polyurethane shares the basic ingredients as the lower octane stuff but
it's resins form a stronger mechanical bond then the lesser varnishes so
it is kind of set off on it's own.

From a woodworking perspective, oddly enough, this is not necessary a
good thing.



--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net

Cetol. (ducking head to avoid flying varnish brushes) Forever.

Dick
M/V "Annie"


"Lyn & Tony" wrote in message
oups.com...
Used Urethane to cover the sole of the yacht. Can it be used in other
places in the interior (less UV than outside) or is varnish the only
way to go.
From what I have been able to discover Urethane will give a harder and
longer lasting finish than varnish. Will it look as good in 2-3 years.
Tony
S/V Ambrosia

In Thailand, where I am at the moment, polyurethane is cheaper than
varnish.
The way I understand the threads, ployurethane is better inside the
boat than varnish.
What is the best type of insulator/sealer to use.

Tony
S/V Ambrosia

http://axonaerospace.com/WoodProductLine.html

Best I have seen
Bruce
What is the best type of insulator/sealer to use.

Tony
S/V Ambrosia

Hi Bruce,

Thanks for the link. I went to the site and it wasn't clear to me (no
pun intended) which of the listed products are the ones to which you
are referring. Let me take a stab at it.

I think I can identify:
- the insulator as NAUTICOAT ISC-909/ISB-910 - INSULATOR "A" AND "B,"
- the sealer as NAUTICOAT PSP-906 - POLYESTER SEALER/TOPCOAT, and
- the polyurethane as NAUTICOAT PG-N-SERIES - HIGH SOLIDS GLOSS LINEAR
POLYURETHANE TOPCOATS SP.

Can you confirm that these are the products that you used?

Also did you spray them on brush them on? I ask because I don't have
the spraying capability.

Many thanks.

Bob Musson


Bruce on horizon wrote:
The insulator is a clear polyurethane that is designed to penetrate
the wood
and lock down the oils. The sealer is a UV clear polyester that
fills the
grain and the aerospace grade polyurethane clear leaves a hard
durable UV
resistant finish that will last for years. I have it on the teak on
my boat
and it is untouched after a year in Florida. I expect to get 5 years
plus
out of the system...maybe more if I am diligent in the upkeep.

--
Shield Finishes and Nauticoat Marine Finish Systems
www.shieldfinishes.com
"Mike G" wrote in message
ews.com...
In article ,
says...
Most people opt for varnish over polyurethane because of price.
All the
high dollar boats have a insulator/sealer/polyurethane topcoat
system.
Stuff is beautiful and last forever.



I'm not familiar with the insulator/sealer/polyurethane system but
it
sounds interesting.

However, if you walk into your local finish supplier or chandler's
and
you pick up a quart of polyurethane off the shelf it is still a
varnish.

Over the years, heck centuries, varnish has had many definitions.
It's
mostly defined by it's make up during that time period.

Today it's usually accepted that a varnish is a combination of

Curing oils, be it linseed, tung, or these days, a modified soy
oil,

Resins, in the old days these would have been natural resins,
amber,
rosin, etc. Today they are synthetic. In other words plastic.

A Carrier/thinner. Usually mineral spirits.

Polyurethane shares the basic ingredients as the lower octane stuff
but
it's resins form a stronger mechanical bond then the lesser
varnishes so
it is kind of set off on it's own.

From a woodworking perspective, oddly enough, this is not necessary
a
good thing.



--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net

That is correct. You spray or roll the insulator(catalyze first) on the
teak in a good thick wet coat and it will dry in about 15 minutes. 320
sand. The 906 is catalyzed with mek peroxide and cobalt promoter and dry to
sand in about 2 hours. Spray finish is best but I have rolled and brushed
with success(requires more sanding). If you are lucky, you can get total
fill of the grain in the first pass with the 906...I normally put on two
coat and get total fill. Last step is the clear coat...once again spray is
best. This system is being used primarily in the high end fighting chair
business where they need a perfect finish. If you find a good spray guy to
help you, you will be a pro in a short short.

--
Shield Finishes and Nauticoat Marine Finish Systems
www.shieldfinishes.com
"ebolean" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi Bruce,

Thanks for the link. I went to the site and it wasn't clear to me (no
pun intended) which of the listed products are the ones to which you
are referring. Let me take a stab at it.

I think I can identify:
- the insulator as NAUTICOAT ISC-909/ISB-910 - INSULATOR "A" AND "B,"
- the sealer as NAUTICOAT PSP-906 - POLYESTER SEALER/TOPCOAT, and
- the polyurethane as NAUTICOAT PG-N-SERIES - HIGH SOLIDS GLOSS LINEAR
POLYURETHANE TOPCOATS SP.

Can you confirm that these are the products that you used?

Also did you spray them on brush them on? I ask because I don't have
the spraying capability.

Many thanks.

Bob Musson


Bruce on horizon wrote:
The insulator is a clear polyurethane that is designed to penetrate
the wood
and lock down the oils. The sealer is a UV clear polyester that
fills the
grain and the aerospace grade polyurethane clear leaves a hard
durable UV
resistant finish that will last for years. I have it on the teak on
my boat
and it is untouched after a year in Florida. I expect to get 5 years
plus
out of the system...maybe more if I am diligent in the upkeep.

--
Shield Finishes and Nauticoat Marine Finish Systems
www.shieldfinishes.com
"Mike G" wrote in message
ews.com...
In article ,
says...
Most people opt for varnish over polyurethane because of price.
All the
high dollar boats have a insulator/sealer/polyurethane topcoat
system.
Stuff is beautiful and last forever.



I'm not familiar with the insulator/sealer/polyurethane system but
it
sounds interesting.

However, if you walk into your local finish supplier or chandler's
and
you pick up a quart of polyurethane off the shelf it is still a
varnish.

Over the years, heck centuries, varnish has had many definitions.
It's
mostly defined by it's make up during that time period.

Today it's usually accepted that a varnish is a combination of

Curing oils, be it linseed, tung, or these days, a modified soy
oil,

Resins, in the old days these would have been natural resins,
amber,
rosin, etc. Today they are synthetic. In other words plastic.

A Carrier/thinner. Usually mineral spirits.

Polyurethane shares the basic ingredients as the lower octane stuff
but
it's resins form a stronger mechanical bond then the lesser
varnishes so
it is kind of set off on it's own.

From a woodworking perspective, oddly enough, this is not necessary
a
good thing.



--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net