| Home |
| Search |
| Today's Posts |
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
Courtney Thomas wrote: I'm told that there are at least 2 types of boat heater, both of which burn diesel; one using a blower to disperse the heat and the other heating a circulating liquid. What are the experiences of the group with both, please ? Thank you, Courtney -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
"Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... Courtney Thomas wrote: I'm told that there are at least 2 types of boat heater, both of which burn diesel; one using a blower to disperse the heat and the other heating a circulating liquid. What are the experiences of the group with both, please ? Thank you, Courtney On the Mirage 33 I crewed on, was a propane furnace/water heater. We didn't use it. In the 2nd year the skipper took it out for whatever reason and it wasn't installed until he sold the boat this spring. When he was at the dock he occasionally used shore power for an electric heater. |
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
In article ,
Courtney Thomas wrote: I'm told that there are at least 2 types of boat heater, both of which burn diesel; one using a blower to disperse the heat and the other heating a circulating liquid. What are the experiences of the group with both, please ? Thank you, Courtney the project i'm working on at the moment has an ITR Hurricane system which circulates hot water with a pump from a diesel-fired boiler out through heater cores (with thermo controlled fans) and then back to the boiler. however... i don't think any one system type is "better" so much as they are more suited to different circumstances. the forced air system is easily the simplest in terms of hardware and such, but if the vessel is very large, getting good coverage gets to be difficult and the ductwork can consume a lot of space. the ITR hot-water system is much more complex but it more readily covers a much bigger vessel and also helps make hot water for hotel use. the plumbing is also much smaller, although there is a lot of it once you see it laid into the hull. (grin) both systems can provide good service if well-designed and installed, and both systems can cause untold headaches if not well-designed and installed. i know the ITR folks are very willing to work with customers to help insure their success and i assume the other suppliers will as well for the same reasons. i'd chat with several suppliers, describe the project in detail and from each get their recommended system design and a bid. then read all the documents for the proposed systems - installation, operations and maintenance. you will then be in a position to decide which system suits your vessel, style of use, the system complexity, and cost you're willing to deal with in an on-going fashion. cheers, -mo |
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
I'm thinking you might want some actual facts on your real-life question,
and while I admit I didn't read all the group replies, I read enough to see that several were less than helpful. There are more than two types of diesel heater - there are those that are more like fireplaces. These are mounted on an inside bulkhead with a combination air intake/exhaust pipe to the outside. I've never had a boat with the wall space for one of these, but I know they can be very effective- quiet, cozy and nice looking. I've seen some wood burners that get pretty smoky on deck, but a buddy has a diesel model that is clean and works great. I have owned and installed diesel forced-air furnaces on two boats - a San Juan 28 and a J/32. The first was an Espar D3L and the second is a Webasto AT3500. Both companies also make similar-sized "Hydronic" furnaces that distribute the heat with hot water, but I have not used one of those. I chose the forced air models because they are less expensive, and because the tradeoffs in installation actually favored the air models in my case. Here's why: The water models _are_ much easier to route the water pipes compared to the large hot-air ducts. However, at the point of use (cabin outlets) you need to install a heat exchanger (aka radiator, Red Dot heater, etc) that is very large and requires 12V power to run a fan. In both cases that part was actually harder to fit in tight spaces than the ducting. As another poster mentioned there is the advantage of being able to route engine cooling water through the system to provide "free" heat while under way. However, my forced air furnace works just fine while under way also. One concern I would have with a complex hot water system (engine, hot water heater, furnace) is more places where a leak could occur, and losing engine water can be very expensive compared to losing cabin heat. Also, both models have the same requirements for combustion air intake and exhaust air outlet pipes, as well as fuel pumps, fuel line, furnace mounting and wiring, thermostat location and wiring - in other words lots of things to install besides the heat distribution. However, your boat may have different open spaces (or obstructions) that would make the forced-air models impossible to install. You need to figure that one out. Now about batteries. My boats have been fine with a pair of group 24s (in the San Juan 28) and group 27s (in the J/32). I like to stay at anchor for a couple of days at a time, and by the third day I'm needing a charge, especially if I run the refrigerator full time. I use Gel batteries, which are rated at 87 AH, not the typical 105 AH as found with wetted cell batteries. I cruise in Puget Sound and British Columbia, more in summer but also often in winter months. The winters here are fairly mild, with temperatures on the water usually in the 40s or higher. One tradeoff is that I use the furnace more and the refrigerator less in the winter, vice-versa in summer. When I use the heater I'm comfortable with cabin temps around 65*. I did upgrade the alternator to provide a little shorter charging time, and I would like to add a third battery just for engine starting so that I can avoid worrying about discharging the two group 27s beyond the point of starting failure. I do have a good battery charge monitor so I can keep track of the charge levels. You can look up fuel and power consumption numbers on these furnaces and I've found them to be reasonably accurate claims. Don't overlook the fact that these things do cycle on and off to maintain a temperature, so the average power/fuel consumption is less than what they say for continuous running. On my boat on a cold day the furnace will first run continuously and then frequently until the boat really warms up, which takes a fairly long time when first going on board. However after several hours the internal objects, people, etc. store some heat and the furnace doesn't need to work so hard to keep it comfortable. I also have an opinion about Espar vs. Webasto, and some experience with the reliability of each. I'll be glad to share if interested. Hope this helps! Don -- http://www.sailj32.com/ The Unofficial J/32 Owner's Web "Courtney Thomas" wrote in message ... I'm told that there are at least 2 types of boat heater, both of which burn diesel; one using a blower to disperse the heat and the other heating a circulating liquid. What are the experiences of the group with both, please ? Thank you, Courtney -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
| Reply |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Forum | |||
| Compact diesel water/space heater ? | General | |||
| Question about installing Diesel Heater | Cruising | |||
| Diesel outboard? | Cruising | |||
| Ignorant Dupes | ASA | |||