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#11
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In article ,
Courtney Thomas wrote: I'm told that there are at least 2 types of boat heater, both of which burn diesel; one using a blower to disperse the heat and the other heating a circulating liquid. What are the experiences of the group with both, please ? Thank you, Courtney the project i'm working on at the moment has an ITR Hurricane system which circulates hot water with a pump from a diesel-fired boiler out through heater cores (with thermo controlled fans) and then back to the boiler. however... i don't think any one system type is "better" so much as they are more suited to different circumstances. the forced air system is easily the simplest in terms of hardware and such, but if the vessel is very large, getting good coverage gets to be difficult and the ductwork can consume a lot of space. the ITR hot-water system is much more complex but it more readily covers a much bigger vessel and also helps make hot water for hotel use. the plumbing is also much smaller, although there is a lot of it once you see it laid into the hull. (grin) both systems can provide good service if well-designed and installed, and both systems can cause untold headaches if not well-designed and installed. i know the ITR folks are very willing to work with customers to help insure their success and i assume the other suppliers will as well for the same reasons. i'd chat with several suppliers, describe the project in detail and from each get their recommended system design and a bid. then read all the documents for the proposed systems - installation, operations and maintenance. you will then be in a position to decide which system suits your vessel, style of use, the system complexity, and cost you're willing to deal with in an on-going fashion. cheers, -mo |
#12
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"JAXAshby" wrote in message ... every boat I have been on -- except one -- that had the blower-type diesel heater had had serious, and damned expensive, maintenance issues, issues that were not fixable in the field. That single boat that had had no problems had the heater installed only the previous month. Would be nice to know what brand that was. Worked fine, but ran a fully charged, brand new Group 27 battery flat dead by about 2:00 in the morning, every morning. A Group 27 battery is a pretty small batery for anything but powering some lights. A forced air diesel heater is a pretty heavy hitter. Mine draws 17A while starting (maybe a minute) and 5-7A while running. I'm told that there are at least 2 types of boat heater, both of which burn diesel; one using a blower to disperse the heat and the other heating a circulating liquid. What are the experiences of the group with both, please ? Thank you, Courtney -- s/v Mutiny Rhodes Bounty II lying Oriental, NC WDB5619 |
#13
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Would be nice to know what brand that was.
Espar. Mine draws 17A while starting (maybe a minute) and 5-7A while running. that is one hell of a lot of amps overnight. Even a much greater bunch of amps if you don't move the next day. btw, you might wish to actually measure just how many amps your system *really* burns. That brand new system on the boat would run out the about 50 to 60 amp capacity of the brand new Group 25 in less than about 5 hours. (note a Grp 27 rated in about 105 amps, gives up about half that before it is effectively dead. That is the way battery ratings work.) |
#14
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"JAXAshby" wrote in message ... Would be nice to know what brand that was. Espar. Mine draws 17A while starting (maybe a minute) and 5-7A while running. that is one hell of a lot of amps overnight. Even a much greater bunch of amps if you don't move the next day. Not really, it only runs maybe 10 minutes every hour. 20-30 AH per day for heating is not too bad. Not sure what moving has to do with anything unless you mean moving towards a warmer climate. .. btw, you might wish to actually measure just how many amps your system *really* burns. That brand new system on the boat would run out the about 50 to 60 amp capacity of the brand new Group 25 in less than about 5 hours. (note a Grp 27 rated in about 105 amps, gives up about half that before it is effectively dead. That is the way battery ratings work.) I know. Such a small battery is not suitable for any forced air heating system. Perhaps a Force 10 or Dickinson would be a choice for a boat that does not support a serious battery bank. |
#16
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That is the way battery ratings work.)
I know. Such a small battery is not suitable for any forced air heating system. doug, a brand new, fully-charged Grp 27 battery will give up about 50 to 60 amps before it is dead. Even more when going to flat dead. That Espar ran that brand new, fully-charged Grp 27 battery flat dead in about 6 hours. Flat dead. of course, it was not 68* outside. More like low 40's. |
#17
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We generally turn it on when outside temps go below 50 or so. Boat
is well insulated so heater doesn;t have to run much to keep inside in the 60s. "JAXAshby" wrote in message ... ah, yessssss. 3,000 amps of battery capacity is about right. btw, ***10*** ??? minutes per hour of run time for a heater? The outside temps dropped to, what, 68*? Most people don't turn on a heater until overnight temps go below 50*. From: "Doug Dotson" AMcom Date: 12/12/2004 3:45 PM Eastern Standard Time Message-id: "JAXAshby" wrote in message ... Would be nice to know what brand that was. Espar. Mine draws 17A while starting (maybe a minute) and 5-7A while running. that is one hell of a lot of amps overnight. Even a much greater bunch of amps if you don't move the next day. Not really, it only runs maybe 10 minutes every hour. 20-30 AH per day for heating is not too bad. Not sure what moving has to do with anything unless you mean moving towards a warmer climate. . btw, you might wish to actually measure just how many amps your system *really* burns. That brand new system on the boat would run out the about 50 to 60 amp capacity of the brand new Group 25 in less than about 5 hours. (note a Grp 27 rated in about 105 amps, gives up about half that before it is effectively dead. That is the way battery ratings work.) I know. Such a small battery is not suitable for any forced air heating system. Perhaps a Force 10 or Dickinson would be a choice for a boat that does not support a serious battery bank. |
#18
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"JAXAshby" wrote in message ... That is the way battery ratings work.) I know. Such a small battery is not suitable for any forced air heating system. doug, a brand new, fully-charged Grp 27 battery will give up about 50 to 60 amps before it is dead. I suspect you mean amp-hours since amps is not a measure of capacity. Even more when going to flat dead. That Espar ran that brand new, fully-charged Grp 27 battery flat dead in about 6 hours. Flat dead. 50-60AH at the 20 hour rate which is normally how batteries are rated. A 5 or 6 amp draw is much higher than the 20 hr rate. More like a 10 hr rate or worse. of course, it was not 68* outside. More like low 40's. Depends upon what temperature the thermostat is set at, the outside temp, how well the boats is insulated, etc. Sorry, a Group 27 battery just isn't suited for a forced air system. Isn;t really suited for much of a refrigeration system either. |
#19
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doug, I certainly hope no one takes your advice. You are all over the place,
and giving advice your simply don't know is contradictory. Please be quiet. If you fail that simple thing, I ask anyone who hears your advice to triple check it with someone who has actually been there. 3,000 amps in battery capacity, dougies. geesh. From: "Doug Dotson" AMcom Date: 12/12/2004 9:07 PM Eastern Standard Time Message-id: "JAXAshby" wrote in message ... That is the way battery ratings work.) I know. Such a small battery is not suitable for any forced air heating system. doug, a brand new, fully-charged Grp 27 battery will give up about 50 to 60 amps before it is dead. I suspect you mean amp-hours since amps is not a measure of capacity. Even more when going to flat dead. That Espar ran that brand new, fully-charged Grp 27 battery flat dead in about 6 hours. Flat dead. 50-60AH at the 20 hour rate which is normally how batteries are rated. A 5 or 6 amp draw is much higher than the 20 hr rate. More like a 10 hr rate or worse. of course, it was not 68* outside. More like low 40's. Depends upon what temperature the thermostat is set at, the outside temp, how well the boats is insulated, etc. Sorry, a Group 27 battery just isn't suited for a forced air system. Isn;t really suited for much of a refrigeration system either. |
#20
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"JAXAshby" wrote in message ... doug, I certainly hope no one takes your advice. You are all over the place, I have been all over the place. And have been toasty warm in all of them. and giving advice your simply don't know is contradictory. Please be quiet. If you fail that simple thing, I ask anyone who hears your advice to triple check it with someone who has actually been there. Anyone should double or triple check any advise from another, especially anything you might suggest. 3,000 amps in battery capacity, dougies. geesh. Battery capacity is not measured in amps bozo. From: "Doug Dotson" AMcom Date: 12/12/2004 9:07 PM Eastern Standard Time Message-id: "JAXAshby" wrote in message ... That is the way battery ratings work.) I know. Such a small battery is not suitable for any forced air heating system. doug, a brand new, fully-charged Grp 27 battery will give up about 50 to 60 amps before it is dead. I suspect you mean amp-hours since amps is not a measure of capacity. Even more when going to flat dead. That Espar ran that brand new, fully-charged Grp 27 battery flat dead in about 6 hours. Flat dead. 50-60AH at the 20 hour rate which is normally how batteries are rated. A 5 or 6 amp draw is much higher than the 20 hr rate. More like a 10 hr rate or worse. of course, it was not 68* outside. More like low 40's. Depends upon what temperature the thermostat is set at, the outside temp, how well the boats is insulated, etc. Sorry, a Group 27 battery just isn't suited for a forced air system. Isn;t really suited for much of a refrigeration system either. |
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