rich...thanx for this info...i am going to snip the info below and fwd
it to my mechanic (he is online)...i will find out what "shaft" is bad
or fouled up. i thought he said the long shaft...but, i do recall him
mentioning the crank and head parts / area ..... do you recomend any
mechaincs that are "tops" for this motor? i may be interested in
shipping it for a "re build", fresh paint & lables in the next 12
months, or so...richard / colorado





Its not usually the 'shaft' that you need but usually the crankshaft...
as if you didnt yearly grease the output 'nose' of the crankshaft, it
will corrode and lose engagement with the output shaft, the shaft being
steel and with the spines longer lasting than the splines in the cast
iron cranikshaft nose.
A new crankshaft is fairly inexpensive. Dont forget to include the
'air' seals for the crankshaft to prevent ambient air leakage into the
the chamber; plus, seals for the lower gear head.

Always run the gasoline mix out of the engine when stopping to prevent
gum and varnish formation. Use a fuel stabilizer or totally drain the
engine/carb when you put it away for more than 30 days. When long term
storing, remove the main jet screw and 'shoot in' isopropyl alcohol to
wash out the carb, then immediately drain, etc.

The old 2hp Evinrude/Johnson will probably last 100 years --- IF you
take care of it.
:-)

For a mechanic for this engine, look for a mechanic with grey or white
hair and who has been in the business for most of his lifetime.
Typicaly someone with a small independent shop .... someone who wont
rip you off.
;-)



In article , ~^
beancounter ~^ wrote:

rich...thanx for this info...i am going to snip the info below and fwd
it to my mechanic (he is online)...i will find out what "shaft" is bad
or fouled up. i thought he said the long shaft...but, i do recall him
mentioning the crank and head parts / area ..... do you recomend any
mechaincs that are "tops" for this motor? i may be interested in
shipping it for a "re build", fresh paint & lables in the next 12
months, or so...richard / colorado





Its not usually the 'shaft' that you need but usually the crankshaft...
as if you didnt yearly grease the output 'nose' of the crankshaft, it
will corrode and lose engagement with the output shaft, the shaft being
steel and with the spines longer lasting than the splines in the cast
iron cranikshaft nose.
A new crankshaft is fairly inexpensive. Dont forget to include the
'air' seals for the crankshaft to prevent ambient air leakage into the
the chamber; plus, seals for the lower gear head.

Always run the gasoline mix out of the engine when stopping to prevent
gum and varnish formation. Use a fuel stabilizer or totally drain the
engine/carb when you put it away for more than 30 days. When long term
storing, remove the main jet screw and 'shoot in' isopropyl alcohol to
wash out the carb, then immediately drain, etc.

The old 2hp Evinrude/Johnson will probably last 100 years --- IF you
take care of it.
:-)

yep Rich...I know just the type of shop you are
speaking about...thanx...




Rich Hampel wrote in message ...
For a mechanic for this engine, look for a mechanic with grey or white
hair and who has been in the business for most of his lifetime.
Typicaly someone with a small independent shop .... someone who wont
rip you off.
;-)



In article , ~^
beancounter ~^ wrote:

rich...thanx for this info...i am going to snip the info below and fwd
it to my mechanic (he is online)...i will find out what "shaft" is bad
or fouled up. i thought he said the long shaft...but, i do recall him
mentioning the crank and head parts / area ..... do you recomend any
mechaincs that are "tops" for this motor? i may be interested in
shipping it for a "re build", fresh paint & lables in the next 12
months, or so...richard / colorado





Its not usually the 'shaft' that you need but usually the crankshaft...
as if you didnt yearly grease the output 'nose' of the crankshaft, it
will corrode and lose engagement with the output shaft, the shaft being
steel and with the spines longer lasting than the splines in the cast
iron cranikshaft nose.
A new crankshaft is fairly inexpensive. Dont forget to include the
'air' seals for the crankshaft to prevent ambient air leakage into the
the chamber; plus, seals for the lower gear head.

Always run the gasoline mix out of the engine when stopping to prevent
gum and varnish formation. Use a fuel stabilizer or totally drain the
engine/carb when you put it away for more than 30 days. When long term
storing, remove the main jet screw and 'shoot in' isopropyl alcohol to
wash out the carb, then immediately drain, etc.

The old 2hp Evinrude/Johnson will probably last 100 years --- IF you
take care of it.
:-)

i did a bit of browsing, looking for a url to
order new/used parts...and i didn't one for the
new owners of the motor line...does anyone have
a phone number, or url for a good, honest, "fully
stocked" company to get parts from?

thanx...




For a mechanic for this engine, look for a mechanic with grey or white
hair and who has been in the business for most of his lifetime.
Typicaly someone with a small independent shop .... someone who wont
rip you off.
;-)

i chatted w/my mechanic...he states
so, i guess i am looking for a crankshaft & bering
housing...



---------snip------------------------------

"We need the crank shaft PT #314696 or 328838
I can order it for 208.57 Brng Hsng # 383231
is No Longer Avalible If we get one great
(I need to look at the one we have not sure
if I can salvage it). The rest of the parts
I can salvage or order as needed..gaskets etc .....

--------------------------------------------