rich...thanx for this info...i am going to snip the info below and fwd
it to my mechanic (he is online)...i will find out what "shaft" is bad
or fouled up. i thought he said the long shaft...but, i do recall him
mentioning the crank and head parts / area ..... do you recomend any
mechaincs that are "tops" for this motor? i may be interested in
shipping it for a "re build", fresh paint & lables in the next 12
months, or so...richard / colorado





Its not usually the 'shaft' that you need but usually the crankshaft...
as if you didnt yearly grease the output 'nose' of the crankshaft, it
will corrode and lose engagement with the output shaft, the shaft being
steel and with the spines longer lasting than the splines in the cast
iron cranikshaft nose.
A new crankshaft is fairly inexpensive. Dont forget to include the
'air' seals for the crankshaft to prevent ambient air leakage into the
the chamber; plus, seals for the lower gear head.

Always run the gasoline mix out of the engine when stopping to prevent
gum and varnish formation. Use a fuel stabilizer or totally drain the
engine/carb when you put it away for more than 30 days. When long term
storing, remove the main jet screw and 'shoot in' isopropyl alcohol to
wash out the carb, then immediately drain, etc.

The old 2hp Evinrude/Johnson will probably last 100 years --- IF you
take care of it.
:-)