A couple more thoughts on the cane door panels, Glenn.

I did the first door with the cane on the outside, then did the next with cane
on the inside. With my skill-base, I decided that it was best to hide the
spline.

I found that you had to really dilute the polyurethane (50%) otherwise it
bridged between the canes and looked terrible.

I have teak battens (1 x 3/8 inches) on the leading edge of all shelves to help
retain stuff; partially successful, but a lot moves offshore and rests against
cane. No damage so far, but must always be careful when openning windward
lockers.

Big plus for cane is ventilation. Also appearance and easy replaceability.

Fair Winds

Graeme
sv Leonidas

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:IuF8d.56442$aW5.51825@fed1read07...
I am back on some fun stuff now that the weather has eased off. Interior
cabinet work. I need to make a lot of cabinet doors and with ventelation
in
mind am thinking about using pre-woven chair caning. Anyone have any
experience with how long it will last with things in the cabinet bumping
into it?

Our new 1987 boat has them - but it's a catamaran and so things don't tend
to bump into them. Actually there aren't even latches on the cabinet doors
(serious gloat)

On a more serious note, I think unless you have heavy canned goods inside a
locker they will be sufficiently durable. On our last boat things may have
occasionally bumped into the locker doors but you could never hear a heavy
"hit"


--
Evan Gatehouse

you'll have to rewrite my email address to get to me
ceilydh AT 3web dot net
(fools the spammers)

This is pretty standard treatment for canoe seats which get a lot more
abuse than cabinet doors probably would. I've read that coating the cane
with varnish actually might make it less flexible. Someone once told me
the cane needed to breath to stay flexible. Makes sense I think.

Glenn Ashmore wrote:
I am back on some fun stuff now that the weather has eased off. Interior
cabinet work. I need to make a lot of cabinet doors and with ventelation in
mind am thinking about using pre-woven chair caning. Anyone have any
experience with how long it will last with things in the cabinet bumping
into it? I am leaning towards a herringbone pattern rather than the
traditional octagonal holes.

My former boat (37 ft.) had all its cabinets faced with cane. It was
applied without the spline treatment, simply retained on the interior with a
roughly half-inch x half-inch molding. Not sure if the cane had been soaked
before installation or not. Durability was terrific (22 years and still
looking good) except for the one accident with crew falling into door. Nice
ventilation source. Pattern same as you are proposing to use, but that's
personal pref.. Needs poly/varnish finish coat, but makes for easy
maintenance. Highly recommended.

Max Lynn

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:IuF8d.56442$aW5.51825@fed1read07...
I am back on some fun stuff now that the weather has eased off. Interior
cabinet work. I need to make a lot of cabinet doors and with ventelation
in
mind am thinking about using pre-woven chair caning. Anyone have any
experience with how long it will last with things in the cabinet bumping
into it? I am leaning towards a herringbone pattern rather than the
traditional octagonal holes.

Subject: Caned cabinet doors?
From: "Glenn Ashmore"

I am back on some fun stuff now that the weather has eased off. Interior
cabinet work. I need to make a lot of cabinet doors and with ventelation in
mind am thinking about using pre-woven chair caning. Anyone have any
experience with how long it will last with things in the cabinet bumping
into it? I am leaning towards a herringbone pattern rather than the
traditional octagonal holes.

I used some in some teak frames that I use to hide the back and side of the
microwave on my boat. I sprayed it with satin poly and it has lasted 10 years
so far.
If things bumping into it is going to be a problem could you put some kind of
rails on the back of the doors?
Capt. Bill