9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Hi, I have the 9.9 OMC use as trolling more than high speed, probably 99%
trolling 1% higher speed and it works fantastic for years and now this year
it just isn't idling. It is starting with help of choke and runs at higher
RPM then when try to idle or lower RPM it stalls out. If I hit the choke I
can stop the stall but same situation happens. I changed the fuel, have new
hose now, new plugs and engine is newer model with gear shift in the front,
maybe about 12 years old. I may have ran a few tanks of high test with the
ethenol or methonal or alcohol in it that the Sonoco sells. I put that high
test in it last couple years. Northern Ontario and runs in fresh water only
and seasonal. Funny thing is it worked fantastic last year and now this year
just wont idle, our winter wasn't that bad, I storred it correctly.
Any suggestions or recommendations to try? thnx

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

"Tom" wrote in message
...
Hi, I have the 9.9 OMC use as trolling more than high speed, probably
99%
trolling 1% higher speed and it works fantastic for years and now this
year
it just isn't idling. It is starting with help of choke and runs at
higher
RPM then when try to idle or lower RPM it stalls out. If I hit the choke
I
can stop the stall but same situation happens. I changed the fuel, have
new
hose now, new plugs and engine is newer model with gear shift in the
front,
maybe about 12 years old. I may have ran a few tanks of high test with
the
ethenol or methonal or alcohol in it that the Sonoco sells. I put that
high
test in it last couple years. Northern Ontario and runs in fresh water
only
and seasonal. Funny thing is it worked fantastic last year and now this
year
just wont idle, our winter wasn't that bad, I storred it correctly.
Any suggestions or recommendations to try? thnx





That's easy. The carburetor has gotten some water or shellac or other crud
from old fuel sitting in the float bowl from the last time you used it.

You must remove the carburetor and remove the float bowl. Then you need to
clean any scum, water and other residue from the float bowl and from the
jets (orifices) you can see and/or remove. A bristle pulled from a wire
brush is often an efficient way to clean the crud out of the small
orifices. You probably have a low-speed orifice clogged as it won't idle
but chances are ALL the orifices have some degree of crud in them. Best to
clean them all thoroughly while you have it apart.

Wilbur Hubbard

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Hi
Thank you for the reply. I see there was a bleeder screw at the bottom of
the bowl of the carb, I opened that up and was able to push (via squeezing)
the bulb so I see the fuel coming out. You still think it requires the carb
to be removed and cleaned out? I did it to my rototiller and was successful,
I can do it , but took a long time. Looks compacted in there. Do you think
the fuel with today's alcohol caused anything? I found a station that sells
zero alcohol in their fuel but that wasn't easy, it seems everyone today has
the alcohol in their fuel. I was worried it was that causing some problem
maybe a seal or neoprene seal was eaten.
Thanks for the advice, looks like this weekend is booked cleaning the carb.
Any more advice is appreciated.






"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message
anews.com...
"Tom" wrote in message
...
Hi, I have the 9.9 OMC use as trolling more than high speed, probably 99%
trolling 1% higher speed and it works fantastic for years and now this
year
it just isn't idling. It is starting with help of choke and runs at
higher
RPM then when try to idle or lower RPM it stalls out. If I hit the choke
I
can stop the stall but same situation happens. I changed the fuel, have
new
hose now, new plugs and engine is newer model with gear shift in the
front,
maybe about 12 years old. I may have ran a few tanks of high test with
the
ethenol or methonal or alcohol in it that the Sonoco sells. I put that
high
test in it last couple years. Northern Ontario and runs in fresh water
only
and seasonal. Funny thing is it worked fantastic last year and now this
year
just wont idle, our winter wasn't that bad, I storred it correctly.
Any suggestions or recommendations to try? thnx





That's easy. The carburetor has gotten some water or shellac or other crud
from old fuel sitting in the float bowl from the last time you used it.

You must remove the carburetor and remove the float bowl. Then you need to
clean any scum, water and other residue from the float bowl and from the
jets (orifices) you can see and/or remove. A bristle pulled from a wire
brush is often an efficient way to clean the crud out of the small
orifices. You probably have a low-speed orifice clogged as it won't idle
but chances are ALL the orifices have some degree of crud in them. Best to
clean them all thoroughly while you have it apart.

Wilbur Hubbard

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

"Tom" wrote in message
...
Hi
Thank you for the reply. I see there was a bleeder screw at the bottom
of the bowl of the carb, I opened that up and was able to push (via
squeezing) the bulb so I see the fuel coming out. You still think it
requires the carb to be removed and cleaned out? I did it to my
rototiller and was successful, I can do it , but took a long time. Looks
compacted in there. Do you think the fuel with today's alcohol caused
anything? I found a station that sells zero alcohol in their fuel but
that wasn't easy, it seems everyone today has the alcohol in their fuel.
I was worried it was that causing some problem maybe a seal or neoprene
seal was eaten.
Thanks for the advice, looks like this weekend is booked cleaning the
carb. Any more advice is appreciated.


Most likely it will need a manual cleaning unless it was just some water
in the float bowl. What you did should have flushed out any settled water.

It's not necessarily the alcohol that's the problem but rather the fuel
seems to 'go stale' rather fast these days. It used to be gasoline would
stay usable for years. But now, it goes bad - i.e. turns to a sludge like
material that clogs small orifices. They make a product called Sta-bil
(SP?) that you can add to fuel before storing a motor for months that
keeps it viable. But raw fuel just seems to have a way too short shelf
life anymore. I always run my motor until the float bowl is dry if I know
I won't be using it for even a week or two. This means removing the fuel
hose and running it while pressing the built in Shrader valve mechanism
until the fuel pump pumps air and the float bowl is rendered empty by the
venturi action of the carburetor. A dry float bowl will keep the jets
clean.

Wilbur Hubbard

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Ok,
Thanks Wilbur, your explaination is appreciated.

I will pay closer attention to my fuels.

Now I will focus on cleaning this carburater.

It is a big difference in performacne in only a short storage season. While
our winter wasn't that bad or long and I always use the high test I am
shocked that the gas gummed up that quickly.

I will begin tackling this carb and cleaning it.

thanks again




"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message
anews.com...
"Tom" wrote in message
...
Hi
Thank you for the reply. I see there was a bleeder screw at the bottom of
the bowl of the carb, I opened that up and was able to push (via
squeezing) the bulb so I see the fuel coming out. You still think it
requires the carb to be removed and cleaned out? I did it to my
rototiller and was successful, I can do it , but took a long time. Looks
compacted in there. Do you think the fuel with today's alcohol caused
anything? I found a station that sells zero alcohol in their fuel but
that wasn't easy, it seems everyone today has the alcohol in their fuel.
I was worried it was that causing some problem maybe a seal or neoprene
seal was eaten.
Thanks for the advice, looks like this weekend is booked cleaning the
carb. Any more advice is appreciated.


Most likely it will need a manual cleaning unless it was just some water
in the float bowl. What you did should have flushed out any settled water.

It's not necessarily the alcohol that's the problem but rather the fuel
seems to 'go stale' rather fast these days. It used to be gasoline would
stay usable for years. But now, it goes bad - i.e. turns to a sludge like
material that clogs small orifices. They make a product called Sta-bil
(SP?) that you can add to fuel before storing a motor for months that
keeps it viable. But raw fuel just seems to have a way too short shelf
life anymore. I always run my motor until the float bowl is dry if I know
I won't be using it for even a week or two. This means removing the fuel
hose and running it while pressing the built in Shrader valve mechanism
until the fuel pump pumps air and the float bowl is rendered empty by the
venturi action of the carburetor. A dry float bowl will keep the jets
clean.

Wilbur Hubbard

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Hi
When you say "Manual Clean" you obviously meant I had to take that carb off
and clean it within. After seeing a bunch of utube cleanings I wonder if I
could get away with a cleaning with carb cleaner. I can set up a small tank
and run it with 50-1 and carb cleaner for about 10 minutes, and spray some
carb cleaner into the carb.

What you recommend is obviously the proper way but what do you say about a
short cut or saving me all the time and removal of the carb. This engine
might be newer than I suggested and it is pretty compacted and tight in
there. I figure there are 5 things I must take out to get at the carb, not
to mention all the mechinism.

Are solvent cleaning or cleaners any good? Could you comment on that please?
In Ontario I am not sure what cleaner is available but I can go to the store
to get.

Any suggestions or comments on this plan?

Thanks much for your help.





"Tom" wrote in message
...
Ok,
Thanks Wilbur, your explaination is appreciated.

I will pay closer attention to my fuels.

Now I will focus on cleaning this carburater.

It is a big difference in performacne in only a short storage season.
While our winter wasn't that bad or long and I always use the high test I
am shocked that the gas gummed up that quickly.

I will begin tackling this carb and cleaning it.

thanks again




"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message
anews.com...
"Tom" wrote in message
...
Hi
Thank you for the reply. I see there was a bleeder screw at the bottom
of the bowl of the carb, I opened that up and was able to push (via
squeezing) the bulb so I see the fuel coming out. You still think it
requires the carb to be removed and cleaned out? I did it to my
rototiller and was successful, I can do it , but took a long time. Looks
compacted in there. Do you think the fuel with today's alcohol caused
anything? I found a station that sells zero alcohol in their fuel but
that wasn't easy, it seems everyone today has the alcohol in their fuel.
I was worried it was that causing some problem maybe a seal or neoprene
seal was eaten.
Thanks for the advice, looks like this weekend is booked cleaning the
carb. Any more advice is appreciated.


Most likely it will need a manual cleaning unless it was just some water
in the float bowl. What you did should have flushed out any settled
water.

It's not necessarily the alcohol that's the problem but rather the fuel
seems to 'go stale' rather fast these days. It used to be gasoline would
stay usable for years. But now, it goes bad - i.e. turns to a sludge like
material that clogs small orifices. They make a product called Sta-bil
(SP?) that you can add to fuel before storing a motor for months that
keeps it viable. But raw fuel just seems to have a way too short shelf
life anymore. I always run my motor until the float bowl is dry if I know
I won't be using it for even a week or two. This means removing the fuel
hose and running it while pressing the built in Shrader valve mechanism
until the fuel pump pumps air and the float bowl is rendered empty by the
venturi action of the carburetor. A dry float bowl will keep the jets
clean.

Wilbur Hubbard

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Hi again
If you can comment on one more issue I forgot to mention. I am truly
thankful.

The OMC plastic gas tank (5gal) I have has a guage on it. Just plain guage
E - 1/2- F style, not round, just glass face with four screws holding the
guage onto the tank with a gasket. Now, this started leaking (at the gasket)
about 2 years ago, now after I filled it up with fuel from Sonoco High Test
with Alcohol (10%) I think and both that gasket kept leaking and the face
glass holding the guage was leaking and the little piece of glass actually
came out.

So I am wondering about the alcohol in the fuel. Something caused it to leak
and I think it is the alcohol, and I am thinking there may be damage in the
fuel pump system or somewhere along the line there somewhere.

Am I worrying for nothing? Is it coincidence? Is there any relation?

Thanks for any tips.






"Tom" wrote in message
...
Hi
When you say "Manual Clean" you obviously meant I had to take that carb
off and clean it within. After seeing a bunch of utube cleanings I wonder
if I could get away with a cleaning with carb cleaner. I can set up a
small tank and run it with 50-1 and carb cleaner for about 10 minutes, and
spray some carb cleaner into the carb.

What you recommend is obviously the proper way but what do you say about a
short cut or saving me all the time and removal of the carb. This engine
might be newer than I suggested and it is pretty compacted and tight in
there. I figure there are 5 things I must take out to get at the carb, not
to mention all the mechinism.

Are solvent cleaning or cleaners any good? Could you comment on that
please? In Ontario I am not sure what cleaner is available but I can go to
the store to get.

Any suggestions or comments on this plan?

Thanks much for your help.





"Tom" wrote in message
...
Ok,
Thanks Wilbur, your explaination is appreciated.

I will pay closer attention to my fuels.

Now I will focus on cleaning this carburater.

It is a big difference in performacne in only a short storage season.
While our winter wasn't that bad or long and I always use the high test I
am shocked that the gas gummed up that quickly.

I will begin tackling this carb and cleaning it.

thanks again




"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message
anews.com...
"Tom" wrote in message
...
Hi
Thank you for the reply. I see there was a bleeder screw at the bottom
of the bowl of the carb, I opened that up and was able to push (via
squeezing) the bulb so I see the fuel coming out. You still think it
requires the carb to be removed and cleaned out? I did it to my
rototiller and was successful, I can do it , but took a long time.
Looks compacted in there. Do you think the fuel with today's alcohol
caused anything? I found a station that sells zero alcohol in their
fuel but that wasn't easy, it seems everyone today has the alcohol in
their fuel. I was worried it was that causing some problem maybe a seal
or neoprene seal was eaten.
Thanks for the advice, looks like this weekend is booked cleaning the
carb. Any more advice is appreciated.


Most likely it will need a manual cleaning unless it was just some water
in the float bowl. What you did should have flushed out any settled
water.

It's not necessarily the alcohol that's the problem but rather the fuel
seems to 'go stale' rather fast these days. It used to be gasoline would
stay usable for years. But now, it goes bad - i.e. turns to a sludge
like material that clogs small orifices. They make a product called
Sta-bil (SP?) that you can add to fuel before storing a motor for months
that keeps it viable. But raw fuel just seems to have a way too short
shelf life anymore. I always run my motor until the float bowl is dry if
I know I won't be using it for even a week or two. This means removing
the fuel hose and running it while pressing the built in Shrader valve
mechanism until the fuel pump pumps air and the float bowl is rendered
empty by the venturi action of the carburetor. A dry float bowl will
keep the jets clean.

Wilbur Hubbard

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Tom,


I think that Wilbur's advice to give the carb a good cleaning is good.
From your description of tight space around the carb, I suspect that you'll
need to dismount the carb to do this. You can spray carb cleaner around ,
maybe it will work.
Many of the posters here live in the US and won't be able to advise you
on the composition of gas in your province. Ask some locals.

Dave M.

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Tried the Sea Foam for a couple days, really hard to keep that engine
running. Runs in high idle but get lower and wants to stall. Choke stops the
stall but keeping it in High idle is worring me too much. And now looks like
the impeller as I am watching the water outlet closely but tonight it wasn't
working and then steam was venting out so I stopped. I am trying to run as
much of that SeaFoam through as I can. I put about 20% of the can into a
2.5gal can mixed 50:1 with fresh high test with no alcohol.

Looks like going to have to try taking off the carb and cleaning it out.
Shouldn't be a problem, it has run nice for near 10 years as trolling motor
and never missed a beat and just this season has failed. So must go to the
west marine near by get the impeller kit .

Is there a carb kit or anything else I would need to do a 10 year service?
Thnx,,




"WaIIy" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 22 Jun 2012 18:03:29 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Hi
When you say "Manual Clean" you obviously meant I had to take that carb
off
and clean it within. After seeing a bunch of utube cleanings I wonder if I
could get away with a cleaning with carb cleaner. I can set up a small
tank
and run it with 50-1 and carb cleaner for about 10 minutes, and spray some
carb cleaner into the carb.

What you recommend is obviously the proper way but what do you say about a
short cut or saving me all the time and removal of the carb. This engine
might be newer than I suggested and it is pretty compacted and tight in
there. I figure there are 5 things I must take out to get at the carb, not
to mention all the mechinism.

Are solvent cleaning or cleaners any good? Could you comment on that
please?
In Ontario I am not sure what cleaner is available but I can go to the
store
to get.

Any suggestions or comments on this plan?

Thanks much for your help.



You might try this first and once you're set, use it once in a while.

It's the gold standard for small engines.

Regular - Sea Foam - it's at auto stores, Walmart, etc




http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-u...-products.html

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

"Tom" wrote in message
...
And now looks like
the impeller as I am watching the water outlet closely but tonight it
wasn't working and then steam was venting out so I stopped




Just steam coming out is a definite sign of cooling difficulties. Good
thing to stop!

L8R

Skip

--

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

When a man comes to like a sea life, he is not fit to live on land.
- Dr. Samuel Johnson

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

"Flying Pig" wrote in message
...
"Tom" wrote in message
...
And now looks like
the impeller as I am watching the water outlet closely but tonight it
wasn't working and then steam was venting out so I stopped

Just steam coming out is a definite sign of cooling difficulties. Good
thing to stop!

Not if it's a steam engine!

Wilbur Hubbard

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

On Mon, 25 Jun 2012 18:44:05 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Tried the Sea Foam for a couple days, really hard to keep that engine
running. Runs in high idle but get lower and wants to stall. Choke stops the
stall but keeping it in High idle is worring me too much. And now looks like
the impeller as I am watching the water outlet closely but tonight it wasn't
working and then steam was venting out so I stopped. I am trying to run as
much of that SeaFoam through as I can. I put about 20% of the can into a
2.5gal can mixed 50:1 with fresh high test with no alcohol.

Looks like going to have to try taking off the carb and cleaning it out.
Shouldn't be a problem, it has run nice for near 10 years as trolling motor
and never missed a beat and just this season has failed. So must go to the
west marine near by get the impeller kit .

Is there a carb kit or anything else I would need to do a 10 year service?
Thnx,,




"WaIIy" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 22 Jun 2012 18:03:29 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Hi
When you say "Manual Clean" you obviously meant I had to take that carb
off
and clean it within. After seeing a bunch of utube cleanings I wonder if I
could get away with a cleaning with carb cleaner. I can set up a small
tank
and run it with 50-1 and carb cleaner for about 10 minutes, and spray some
carb cleaner into the carb.

What you recommend is obviously the proper way but what do you say about a
short cut or saving me all the time and removal of the carb. This engine
might be newer than I suggested and it is pretty compacted and tight in
there. I figure there are 5 things I must take out to get at the carb, not
to mention all the mechinism.

Are solvent cleaning or cleaners any good? Could you comment on that
please?
In Ontario I am not sure what cleaner is available but I can go to the
store
to get.

Any suggestions or comments on this plan?

Thanks much for your help.



You might try this first and once you're set, use it once in a while.

It's the gold standard for small engines.

Regular - Sea Foam - it's at auto stores, Walmart, etc




http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-u...-products.html


Have you considered taking it to a good mechanic? I would set aside
the dough for next time as I went. Put a fin in the kitty each
weekend, until you have a couple of hundred or whatever.

Casady

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

On Tue, 26 Jun 2012 13:05:02 -0500, Richard Casady
wrote:

Put a fin in the kitty each
weekend, until you have a couple of hundred or whatever.

===

That's about what it will cost for a new carburetor which is the best
and easiest solution to the idle problem. The cooling issue is
something else however.

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

No way, no mechanic. I am doing this myself.

First time for everything, besides, I just love the look on mechanic's faces
when bringing a pile of something and asking them to help put it back
together.

But I bought the impeller kits today for both engines and will try that
first.

Then take the carb off and clean it and put it back together again.

Any tips on those idle screws? What is the secret to not screwing them up?
Iwas going to turn til tight and count the turns and mark where it is
exactly now.

thnx






"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 26 Jun 2012 13:05:02 -0500, Richard Casady
wrote:

Put a fin in the kitty each
weekend, until you have a couple of hundred or whatever.

===

That's about what it will cost for a new carburetor which is the best
and easiest solution to the idle problem. The cooling issue is
something else however.

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

On Tue, 26 Jun 2012 20:37:14 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

First time for everything, besides, I just love the look on mechanic's faces
when bringing a pile of something and asking them to help put it back
together.

===

I understand all of that but you need to know that cleaning and
rebuilding small carburetors is not always successful. That's why
professional mechanics will usually just replace it with a new one.
It's a guaranteed cure and the time requirement is known in advance.

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 26 Jun 2012 20:37:14 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

First time for everything, besides, I just love the look on mechanic's
faces
when bringing a pile of something and asking them to help put it back
together.

===

I understand all of that but you need to know that cleaning and
rebuilding small carburetors is not always successful. That's why
professional mechanics will usually just replace it with a new one.
It's a guaranteed cure and the time requirement is known in advance.




Are you aware of the price of a new carburetor for a small outboard these
days? Probably two or three hundred bucks.

They most certainly are NOT a throwaway item just because some mechanic is
not skilled enough to know how to clean the offending parts. Any decent
home mechanic will have no trouble cleaning the crud out of clogged jets.
They are visible and accessible. No special tools required. In most carbs
I've cleaned all it takes is a couple of screwdrivers and a bristle pulled
from a wire brush. The clogged orifices will be easily accessible.


Wilbur Hubbard

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 26 Jun 2012 20:37:14 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

First time for everything, besides, I just love the look on mechanic's
faces
when bringing a pile of something and asking them to help put it back
together.

===

I understand all of that but you need to know that cleaning and
rebuilding small carburetors is not always successful. That's why
professional mechanics will usually just replace it with a new one.
It's a guaranteed cure and the time requirement is known in advance.




WRONG!

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Me...9A)/parts.html

Just like I said two or three hundred bucks for such a carburetor. Too
expensive just to replace because a mechanic is either too stupid or lazy
to clean the crud out of the orifices.

It takes all of one half hour to clean the crud out. Even if the shop
labor is 80 bucks an hour that's 40 bucks vs. 300 bucks.

Wilbur Hubbard

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Yes, I think I am going to tackle it. I can clean it. I have watched it on
utube dozen times now so as long as staying focused and putting everything
back together properly. I also was concerned about the settings on the carb
when putting them back. Those idle screws need to be thought out as well and
other than that it looks pretty straight forward. I have gotten quotes from
marina machanics who would love to do this and they are around the 250 mark
plus taxes. So you are taking a risk with them sometimes so buying the new
carb outright is about the same price so I would have to go that direction
before having the marina do it. I will do it myself. After I do both
impellers. I will let you know how I do, but some far less important things
have come up and must get them done first.
thnx




"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message
anews.com...
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 26 Jun 2012 20:37:14 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

First time for everything, besides, I just love the look on mechanic's
faces
when bringing a pile of something and asking them to help put it back
together.

===

I understand all of that but you need to know that cleaning and
rebuilding small carburetors is not always successful. That's why
professional mechanics will usually just replace it with a new one.
It's a guaranteed cure and the time requirement is known in advance.




WRONG!

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Me...9A)/parts.html

Just like I said two or three hundred bucks for such a carburetor. Too
expensive just to replace because a mechanic is either too stupid or lazy
to clean the crud out of the orifices.

It takes all of one half hour to clean the crud out. Even if the shop
labor is 80 bucks an hour that's 40 bucks vs. 300 bucks.

Wilbur Hubbard

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

On Thu, 28 Jun 2012 07:43:55 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Yes, I think I am going to tackle it. I can clean it. I have watched it on
utube dozen times now so as long as staying focused and putting everything
back together properly. I also was concerned about the settings on the carb
when putting them back. Those idle screws need to be thought out as well and
other than that it looks pretty straight forward. I have gotten quotes from
marina machanics who would love to do this and they are around the 250 mark
plus taxes. So you are taking a risk with them sometimes so buying the new
carb outright is about the same price so I would have to go that direction
before having the marina do it. I will do it myself. After I do both
impellers. I will let you know how I do, but some far less important things
have come up and must get them done first.
thnx


None of the adjustments are rocket science. Just screw them closed,
counting the turns. then write down the number somewhere where yu'all
will remember it.

Of course, you could buy a manual, where someone else had screwed the
adjustment closed and written the number down :-)

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Thanks Bruce

I took the motor for a spin on the weekend, thought it would clear the clog
and I ran some SeaFoam through it but it did nothing to improve the lower
idle. Higher speed the motor didn't miss a beat, but slowing the throttle
down it wanted to stall and pulling the choke was stopping the stall. But
nothing corrected the issue. Looks like I will have to remove and clean the
carb.

Is there any procedure for setting those idle screws? Other than where they
are now, I would hope they are in the right spot.

Anyone have any ideas where those screws should be? I can do what you
suggest Bruce and count the turns and put back in same spot, but what if
that spot is wrong spot?

Some utube videos say tighten the screw then come back 1.5 turns.

Thanks for the ideas





"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 28 Jun 2012 07:43:55 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Yes, I think I am going to tackle it. I can clean it. I have watched it on
utube dozen times now so as long as staying focused and putting everything
back together properly. I also was concerned about the settings on the
carb
when putting them back. Those idle screws need to be thought out as well
and
other than that it looks pretty straight forward. I have gotten quotes
from
marina machanics who would love to do this and they are around the 250
mark
plus taxes. So you are taking a risk with them sometimes so buying the new
carb outright is about the same price so I would have to go that direction
before having the marina do it. I will do it myself. After I do both
impellers. I will let you know how I do, but some far less important
things
have come up and must get them done first.
thnx


None of the adjustments are rocket science. Just screw them closed,
counting the turns. then write down the number somewhere where yu'all
will remember it.

Of course, you could buy a manual, where someone else had screwed the
adjustment closed and written the number down :-)

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

"Tom" wrote in message
...
Thanks Bruce


Some utube videos say tighten the screw then come back 1.5 turns.

That's the ticket. That's the starting point. That will get you up and
running. Lightly bottom the screw then back it out one and a half turns.
When the motor warms up you can fiddle with it while the engine is idling
in gear to make it as smooth as possible.

With what you just said it appears that only the low speed jet is clogged.
That's the one where a bristle pulled from a wire brush and used to clear
the orifice will do the job nicely. No need to do much more than remove
the float bowl and locate the low speed orifice and use the bristle to
unclog it.

Wilbur Hubbard

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

On Tue, 3 Jul 2012 17:02:57 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Thanks Bruce

I took the motor for a spin on the weekend, thought it would clear the clog
and I ran some SeaFoam through it but it did nothing to improve the lower
idle. Higher speed the motor didn't miss a beat, but slowing the throttle
down it wanted to stall and pulling the choke was stopping the stall. But
nothing corrected the issue. Looks like I will have to remove and clean the
carb.

Is there any procedure for setting those idle screws? Other than where they
are now, I would hope they are in the right spot.

Anyone have any ideas where those screws should be? I can do what you
suggest Bruce and count the turns and put back in same spot, but what if
that spot is wrong spot?

Some utube videos say tighten the screw then come back 1.5 turns.

Thanks for the ideas


Idle speed or mixture is not really that important an adjustment as it
is effective only in the idle range. If you had no idea at all you
could just get the engine running and holding the RPM above the idle
range make an adjustment. Retard the throttle until the RPM falls into
the idle range and see whether the engine runs smoothly. If it doesn't
try a different adjustment, either open a bit or closed a bit. The
Idle Speed do the same. Get it to run. Make a preliminary adjustment
and see how it goes, adjust to taste :-)

If you have some doubt about the present adjustment why not change it?
A quarter - half a turn in either direction. See how it goes. You can
always return to the original setting.

It is not like the adjustment is some secret setting. Either the
engine will run smoother, or not as smooth (smooth is good) and almost
anyone should be able to figure out is it better or worse.

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

On Wed, 04 Jul 2012 07:20:26 +0700, Bruce
wrote:

On Tue, 3 Jul 2012 17:02:57 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Thanks Bruce

I took the motor for a spin on the weekend, thought it would clear the clog
and I ran some SeaFoam through it but it did nothing to improve the lower
idle. Higher speed the motor didn't miss a beat, but slowing the throttle
down it wanted to stall and pulling the choke was stopping the stall. But
nothing corrected the issue. Looks like I will have to remove and clean the
carb.

Is there any procedure for setting those idle screws? Other than where they
are now, I would hope they are in the right spot.

Anyone have any ideas where those screws should be? I can do what you
suggest Bruce and count the turns and put back in same spot, but what if
that spot is wrong spot?

Some utube videos say tighten the screw then come back 1.5 turns.

Thanks for the ideas


Idle speed or mixture is not really that important an adjustment as it
is effective only in the idle range. If you had no idea at all you
could just get the engine running and holding the RPM above the idle
range make an adjustment. Retard the throttle until the RPM falls into
the idle range and see whether the engine runs smoothly. If it doesn't
try a different adjustment, either open a bit or closed a bit. The
Idle Speed do the same. Get it to run. Make a preliminary adjustment
and see how it goes, adjust to taste :-)

If you have some doubt about the present adjustment why not change it?
A quarter - half a turn in either direction. See how it goes. You can
always return to the original setting.

It is not like the adjustment is some secret setting. Either the
engine will run smoother, or not as smooth (smooth is good) and almost
anyone should be able to figure out is it better or worse.


More to the above. A mate who services most of the outboards in the
Marina casually mentioned a 9.9 HP O.B. he was servicing. I asked him
what sort of carburetor it had on it and he said that it was just a
simple one - no hidden traps or problems and wondered that "the guy"
had been so long at taking his apart and cleaning it :-)

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Hi
Thanks gentlemen for your advice. I am waiting now for the carb repair kit
to come in. It costs about 24 dollars for complete kit containing float.
Watching a few u-tubes on mechanics doing carb cleaning they all talk about
the damage today's alcohol additives does to these components.

I will certainly be paying much closer attention to the fuels I use in these
engines. I have found some gas stations that have no alcohol in their fuel
and will start adding stableizer to the fuel from now on to prevent gumming
and these issues.

Should these outboards be runned dry after using? Is leaving fuel in the
carbs good idea (stablized) or should run dry then that leaves air in there,
is that worse?

Thanks again gentlemen for the tips, I will let you know how I managed to do
my second carb servicing (first one was my 70 old rotto tiller) and that was
just a take it off, clean it, flush it, rinse it, soak it, clean that tank
and it started first pull and ran like a dream (until it started stalling
again but now I leave the tank full and runs good).

If it aint one thing it is always another,

thanks again

73s






"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 04 Jul 2012 07:20:26 +0700, Bruce
wrote:

On Tue, 3 Jul 2012 17:02:57 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Thanks Bruce

I took the motor for a spin on the weekend, thought it would clear the
clog
and I ran some SeaFoam through it but it did nothing to improve the lower
idle. Higher speed the motor didn't miss a beat, but slowing the throttle
down it wanted to stall and pulling the choke was stopping the stall. But
nothing corrected the issue. Looks like I will have to remove and clean
the
carb.

Is there any procedure for setting those idle screws? Other than where
they
are now, I would hope they are in the right spot.

Anyone have any ideas where those screws should be? I can do what you
suggest Bruce and count the turns and put back in same spot, but what if
that spot is wrong spot?

Some utube videos say tighten the screw then come back 1.5 turns.

Thanks for the ideas


Idle speed or mixture is not really that important an adjustment as it
is effective only in the idle range. If you had no idea at all you
could just get the engine running and holding the RPM above the idle
range make an adjustment. Retard the throttle until the RPM falls into
the idle range and see whether the engine runs smoothly. If it doesn't
try a different adjustment, either open a bit or closed a bit. The
Idle Speed do the same. Get it to run. Make a preliminary adjustment
and see how it goes, adjust to taste :-)

If you have some doubt about the present adjustment why not change it?
A quarter - half a turn in either direction. See how it goes. You can
always return to the original setting.

It is not like the adjustment is some secret setting. Either the
engine will run smoother, or not as smooth (smooth is good) and almost
anyone should be able to figure out is it better or worse.


More to the above. A mate who services most of the outboards in the
Marina casually mentioned a 9.9 HP O.B. he was servicing. I asked him
what sort of carburetor it had on it and he said that it was just a
simple one - no hidden traps or problems and wondered that "the guy"
had been so long at taking his apart and cleaning it :-)

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 08:19:10 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Should these outboards be runned dry after using?

======


That is the best way to prevent carburetor problems, plus some
stabilizer in the fuel to minimize gumming in the tank.

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 08:19:10 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Hi
Thanks gentlemen for your advice. I am waiting now for the carb repair kit
to come in. It costs about 24 dollars for complete kit containing float.
Watching a few u-tubes on mechanics doing carb cleaning they all talk about
the damage today's alcohol additives does to these components.

I will certainly be paying much closer attention to the fuels I use in these
engines. I have found some gas stations that have no alcohol in their fuel
and will start adding stableizer to the fuel from now on to prevent gumming
and these issues.

I would be a septic when it comes to talk about the "damage" that
fuels do to the internal bits of an engine. Neither the chemist that
formulates the fuel not the engineer that designed the engine are
blithering idiots. It is unlikely that either will design items that
will significantly damage the other.

I might comment that the mean intelligence levels exhibited on
you-tube seems to be in the sub-8th grade levels.

Should these outboards be runned dry after using? Is leaving fuel in the
carbs good idea (stablized) or should run dry then that leaves air in there,
is that worse?


The usual practice on a yacht tender when the motor is to be hung on
the stern rail for a while is to run the engine dry of fuel.

Thanks again gentlemen for the tips, I will let you know how I managed to do
my second carb servicing (first one was my 70 old rotto tiller) and that was
just a take it off, clean it, flush it, rinse it, soak it, clean that tank
and it started first pull and ran like a dream (until it started stalling
again but now I leave the tank full and runs good).

If it aint one thing it is always another,

thanks again

73s

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

"Bruce" wrote in message
...

I might comment that the mean intelligence levels
exhibited
on you-tube seems to be in the sub-8th grade levels.

What are you saying? That they are a little too advanced
for you, Bruce?


Wilbur Hubbard

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

On Fri, 6 Jul 2012 10:12:59 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

"Bruce" wrote in message
.. .

I might comment that the mean intelligence levels
exhibited
on you-tube seems to be in the sub-8th grade levels.

What are you saying? That they are a little too advanced
for you, Bruce?


Wilbur Hubbard


No Willie-boy, the statement that they appear sub-8th grade level to
me indicates that I view them as having a rather low level of
intellectually content.

Why, do you have problems understanding them?

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 6 Jul 2012 10:12:59 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

"Bruce" wrote in message
. ..

I might comment that the mean intelligence levels
exhibited
on you-tube seems to be in the sub-8th grade levels.

What are you saying? That they are a little too
advanced
for you, Bruce?


Wilbur Hubbard


No Willie-boy, the statement that they appear sub-8th
grade level to
me indicates that I view them as having a rather low
level of
intellectually content.

Why, do you have problems understanding them?



I don't view them at all as they are beneath me.

In my younger years I worked for eight years as a
motorcycle mechanic in a high volume dealership/shop
working on all makes and models and, after that, for
seven years as a Technical Advisor for Suzuki
Motorcycles. I'm a more accomplished and knowledgeable
small engine mechanic than anybody in this group, by a
long long long shot.

Carburetors, particular Japanese brands, (Mikuni,
Keihin) I've even taught mechanic's classes on them.
They are totally adjustable and incorporate separate,
fully adjustable/replaceable idle/low speed jets, mid
range jets (needle jet and jet needles) and high speed
(main) jets. Due to the very small diameter of the low
speed jets, clogging is not a rare occurrence at all.
The symptoms of a clog are very evident. It usually
takes all of ten minutes to do away with a clog once the
carburetor is removed from the engine.

Wilbur Hubbard

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

On Sat, 7 Jul 2012 13:03:45 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

"Bruce" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 6 Jul 2012 10:12:59 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

"Bruce" wrote in message
...

I might comment that the mean intelligence levels
exhibited
on you-tube seems to be in the sub-8th grade levels.

What are you saying? That they are a little too
advanced
for you, Bruce?


Wilbur Hubbard


No Willie-boy, the statement that they appear sub-8th
grade level to
me indicates that I view them as having a rather low
level of
intellectually content.

Why, do you have problems understanding them?



I don't view them at all as they are beneath me.

In my younger years I worked for eight years as a
motorcycle mechanic in a high volume dealership/shop
working on all makes and models and, after that, for
seven years as a Technical Advisor for Suzuki
Motorcycles. I'm a more accomplished and knowledgeable
small engine mechanic than anybody in this group, by a
long long long shot.

Carburetors, particular Japanese brands, (Mikuni,
Keihin) I've even taught mechanic's classes on them.
They are totally adjustable and incorporate separate,
fully adjustable/replaceable idle/low speed jets, mid
range jets (needle jet and jet needles) and high speed
(main) jets. Due to the very small diameter of the low
speed jets, clogging is not a rare occurrence at all.
The symptoms of a clog are very evident. It usually
takes all of ten minutes to do away with a clog once the
carburetor is removed from the engine.

Wilbur Hubbard

Amazing!

In addition to your imagined qualifications as a cruising yachtsman
you now add that of a motorcycle mechanic and if I remember correctly
you are also a bicycle racer and career thief (remembering the battery
and brandy thefts).

What is next? Space capsule captain? Long distance swimmer? Arctic
Explorer?

Or only degeneration yet further into Alzheimer's?

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Here is a pretty accurate site for finding ethenol free fuel distributors.






"Tom" wrote in message
...
Hi
Thanks gentlemen for your advice. I am waiting now for the carb repair kit
to come in. It costs about 24 dollars for complete kit containing float.
Watching a few u-tubes on mechanics doing carb cleaning they all talk
about the damage today's alcohol additives does to these components.

I will certainly be paying much closer attention to the fuels I use in
these engines. I have found some gas stations that have no alcohol in
their fuel and will start adding stableizer to the fuel from now on to
prevent gumming and these issues.

Should these outboards be runned dry after using? Is leaving fuel in the
carbs good idea (stablized) or should run dry then that leaves air in
there, is that worse?

Thanks again gentlemen for the tips, I will let you know how I managed to
do my second carb servicing (first one was my 70 old rotto tiller) and
that was just a take it off, clean it, flush it, rinse it, soak it, clean
that tank and it started first pull and ran like a dream (until it started
stalling again but now I leave the tank full and runs good).

If it aint one thing it is always another,

thanks again

73s






"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 04 Jul 2012 07:20:26 +0700, Bruce
wrote:

On Tue, 3 Jul 2012 17:02:57 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Thanks Bruce

I took the motor for a spin on the weekend, thought it would clear the
clog
and I ran some SeaFoam through it but it did nothing to improve the
lower
idle. Higher speed the motor didn't miss a beat, but slowing the
throttle
down it wanted to stall and pulling the choke was stopping the stall.
But
nothing corrected the issue. Looks like I will have to remove and clean
the
carb.

Is there any procedure for setting those idle screws? Other than where
they
are now, I would hope they are in the right spot.

Anyone have any ideas where those screws should be? I can do what you
suggest Bruce and count the turns and put back in same spot, but what if
that spot is wrong spot?

Some utube videos say tighten the screw then come back 1.5 turns.

Thanks for the ideas


Idle speed or mixture is not really that important an adjustment as it
is effective only in the idle range. If you had no idea at all you
could just get the engine running and holding the RPM above the idle
range make an adjustment. Retard the throttle until the RPM falls into
the idle range and see whether the engine runs smoothly. If it doesn't
try a different adjustment, either open a bit or closed a bit. The
Idle Speed do the same. Get it to run. Make a preliminary adjustment
and see how it goes, adjust to taste :-)

If you have some doubt about the present adjustment why not change it?
A quarter - half a turn in either direction. See how it goes. You can
always return to the original setting.

It is not like the adjustment is some secret setting. Either the
engine will run smoother, or not as smooth (smooth is good) and almost
anyone should be able to figure out is it better or worse.


More to the above. A mate who services most of the outboards in the
Marina casually mentioned a 9.9 HP O.B. he was servicing. I asked him
what sort of carburetor it had on it and he said that it was just a
simple one - no hidden traps or problems and wondered that "the guy"
had been so long at taking his apart and cleaning it :-)

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Ha ha


http://pure-gas.org/





"Tom" wrote in message
...
Here is a pretty accurate site for finding ethenol free fuel distributors.






"Tom" wrote in message
...
Hi
Thanks gentlemen for your advice. I am waiting now for the carb repair
kit to come in. It costs about 24 dollars for complete kit containing
float. Watching a few u-tubes on mechanics doing carb cleaning they all
talk about the damage today's alcohol additives does to these components.

I will certainly be paying much closer attention to the fuels I use in
these engines. I have found some gas stations that have no alcohol in
their fuel and will start adding stableizer to the fuel from now on to
prevent gumming and these issues.

Should these outboards be runned dry after using? Is leaving fuel in the
carbs good idea (stablized) or should run dry then that leaves air in
there, is that worse?

Thanks again gentlemen for the tips, I will let you know how I managed to
do my second carb servicing (first one was my 70 old rotto tiller) and
that was just a take it off, clean it, flush it, rinse it, soak it, clean
that tank and it started first pull and ran like a dream (until it
started stalling again but now I leave the tank full and runs good).

If it aint one thing it is always another,

thanks again

73s






"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 04 Jul 2012 07:20:26 +0700, Bruce
wrote:

On Tue, 3 Jul 2012 17:02:57 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Thanks Bruce

I took the motor for a spin on the weekend, thought it would clear the
clog
and I ran some SeaFoam through it but it did nothing to improve the
lower
idle. Higher speed the motor didn't miss a beat, but slowing the
throttle
down it wanted to stall and pulling the choke was stopping the stall.
But
nothing corrected the issue. Looks like I will have to remove and clean
the
carb.

Is there any procedure for setting those idle screws? Other than where
they
are now, I would hope they are in the right spot.

Anyone have any ideas where those screws should be? I can do what you
suggest Bruce and count the turns and put back in same spot, but what
if
that spot is wrong spot?

Some utube videos say tighten the screw then come back 1.5 turns.

Thanks for the ideas


Idle speed or mixture is not really that important an adjustment as it
is effective only in the idle range. If you had no idea at all you
could just get the engine running and holding the RPM above the idle
range make an adjustment. Retard the throttle until the RPM falls into
the idle range and see whether the engine runs smoothly. If it doesn't
try a different adjustment, either open a bit or closed a bit. The
Idle Speed do the same. Get it to run. Make a preliminary adjustment
and see how it goes, adjust to taste :-)

If you have some doubt about the present adjustment why not change it?
A quarter - half a turn in either direction. See how it goes. You can
always return to the original setting.

It is not like the adjustment is some secret setting. Either the
engine will run smoother, or not as smooth (smooth is good) and almost
anyone should be able to figure out is it better or worse.


More to the above. A mate who services most of the outboards in the
Marina casually mentioned a 9.9 HP O.B. he was servicing. I asked him
what sort of carburetor it had on it and he said that it was just a
simple one - no hidden traps or problems and wondered that "the guy"
had been so long at taking his apart and cleaning it :-)

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Thanks boys for all the advice, I took the carb off, replaced the parts that
came with the kit and the float and you were absolutely right. There was so
much varnish in those jets, I just used a whole can of carb cleaner and a
compressed air thing and kept cleaning and it all came out and while I
haven't started it yet, I know that those holes were clogged, there was
corrosion and water and other stuff. I am going to pay more closer attention
to the fuel. The blue sta-bil is not a must.

One question, many were talking about that idle screw on the carb. I think
it is the needle valve for slow speed. On the side of the starboard side of
the carb. Some said work it in to the end then back it out 1.5 turns. Mine
was worked into the end then backed out 4.25 turns. I haven't started it yet
because replacing fuel lines with the newer ones so will soon but where
should that idle screw be? 1.5 or 4.25 ? I have it at 4.25 now but wondering
if that is a problem or how to set that.

Thanks






"Wayne B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 08:19:10 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Should these outboards be runned dry after using?

======


That is the best way to prevent carburetor problems, plus some
stabilizer in the fuel to minimize gumming in the tank.

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

On Fri, 20 Jul 2012 10:40:47 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Thanks boys for all the advice, I took the carb off, replaced the parts that
came with the kit and the float and you were absolutely right. There was so
much varnish in those jets, I just used a whole can of carb cleaner and a
compressed air thing and kept cleaning and it all came out and while I
haven't started it yet, I know that those holes were clogged, there was
corrosion and water and other stuff. I am going to pay more closer attention
to the fuel. The blue sta-bil is not a must.

One question, many were talking about that idle screw on the carb. I think
it is the needle valve for slow speed. On the side of the starboard side of
the carb. Some said work it in to the end then back it out 1.5 turns. Mine
was worked into the end then backed out 4.25 turns. I haven't started it yet
because replacing fuel lines with the newer ones so will soon but where
should that idle screw be? 1.5 or 4.25 ? I have it at 4.25 now but wondering
if that is a problem or how to set that.

Thanks


It is not a critical adjustment. In fact, most engines will run at
higher then idle speed with the idle screw (valve) all the way closed.
Just get the engine running, then it is just a matter of idling the
engine down and if it doesn't run right adjusting the idle screw until
the engine runs as smoothly as possible. It may take you a few tries
but you aren't going to break anything.
Cheers,
Bruce

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Yes thanks, I just mixed in some marine Sta-Bil to the fresh tank of none
ethenol fuel, replaced the lines, primer bulb and the clip end. The plastic
tank also so it is all fresh but will wait til morn to start it. I will let
you know how runs. Thnx



"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 20 Jul 2012 10:40:47 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Thanks boys for all the advice, I took the carb off, replaced the parts
that
came with the kit and the float and you were absolutely right. There was
so
much varnish in those jets, I just used a whole can of carb cleaner and a
compressed air thing and kept cleaning and it all came out and while I
haven't started it yet, I know that those holes were clogged, there was
corrosion and water and other stuff. I am going to pay more closer
attention
to the fuel. The blue sta-bil is not a must.

One question, many were talking about that idle screw on the carb. I think
it is the needle valve for slow speed. On the side of the starboard side
of
the carb. Some said work it in to the end then back it out 1.5 turns. Mine
was worked into the end then backed out 4.25 turns. I haven't started it
yet
because replacing fuel lines with the newer ones so will soon but where
should that idle screw be? 1.5 or 4.25 ? I have it at 4.25 now but
wondering
if that is a problem or how to set that.

Thanks


It is not a critical adjustment. In fact, most engines will run at
higher then idle speed with the idle screw (valve) all the way closed.
Just get the engine running, then it is just a matter of idling the
engine down and if it doesn't run right adjusting the idle screw until
the engine runs as smoothly as possible. It may take you a few tries
but you aren't going to break anything.
Cheers,
Bruce

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Interesting update.

Got the 9.9 running Ok, I put the idle screw to 1.75 and started and it ran
high so backed it out to where it was about at 4.25 it seemed to run ok in
the driveway with earmuffs, idled very nice.
Thanks so much for the advice on that 9.9, so now that I cleaned the carb
and impeller I think the thermostat may be failing. It isn't a sal****er
unit but its been in salt water many times. About 15 years old. Either the
muffs werent tight or the thermostat because I took the thermostate apart
and soaked that brass part in some CLR and cleaned the gunk out of there and
put it back and really started peeing out that pee hole thing and idled
nice. Feel happy and proud I learned a lot on that 9.9.

So started the main engine the 225hp. Remember few days ago I changed the
impeller in that and thought all went well there. Now here is my situation ,
I never started the engine in the driveway before with earmuffs, only with
that thread in female part at the back where the pee hole view thing pulls
out with sparkplug socket size wrench. So, for first time using the earmuffs
I notice the pee hole squirter isn't as powerful as it was in the water.
Maybe half, And notice water gushing out between that space between lower
unit and shaft housing, not sure if that is supposed to gush out from there,
I can only use the earmuffs in the driveway. I think maybe I might have to
pull that lower part off again to see if I missed something when putting it
back together. It was tricky as had to take the side cowl off to disingage
that shifter rod.

So thats my plan in the morning. Unless one of you guys thinks that is
normal for a 225hp 1999 to run its water cooling system like that with
earmuffs. I should have paid closer attention to it before in the driveway,
I only used that back feeder part. But in the river it ****es out much more
powerful,

Any ideas?

thanks





"WaIIy" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 20 Jul 2012 10:40:47 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

One question, many were talking about that idle screw on the carb. I think
it is the needle valve for slow speed. On the side of the starboard side
of
the carb. Some said work it in to the end then back it out 1.5 turns. Mine
was worked into the end then backed out 4.25 turns. I haven't started it
yet
because replacing fuel lines with the newer ones so will soon but where
should that idle screw be? 1.5 or 4.25 ? I have it at 4.25 now but
wondering
if that is a problem or how to set that.


Sounds like "someone" screwed it out too far in an attempt to get it to
idle.

1 1/2 - 2 turns should be your starting point.

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

On Sat, 21 Jul 2012 20:34:16 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Interesting update.

Got the 9.9 running Ok, I put the idle screw to 1.75 and started and it ran
high so backed it out to where it was about at 4.25 it seemed to run ok in
the driveway with earmuffs, idled very nice.
Thanks so much for the advice on that 9.9, so now that I cleaned the carb
and impeller I think the thermostat may be failing. It isn't a sal****er
unit but its been in salt water many times. About 15 years old. Either the
muffs werent tight or the thermostat because I took the thermostate apart
and soaked that brass part in some CLR and cleaned the gunk out of there and
put it back and really started peeing out that pee hole thing and idled
nice. Feel happy and proud I learned a lot on that 9.9.

So started the main engine the 225hp. Remember few days ago I changed the
impeller in that and thought all went well there. Now here is my situation ,
I never started the engine in the driveway before with earmuffs, only with
that thread in female part at the back where the pee hole view thing pulls
out with sparkplug socket size wrench. So, for first time using the earmuffs
I notice the pee hole squirter isn't as powerful as it was in the water.
Maybe half, And notice water gushing out between that space between lower
unit and shaft housing, not sure if that is supposed to gush out from there,
I can only use the earmuffs in the driveway. I think maybe I might have to
pull that lower part off again to see if I missed something when putting it
back together. It was tricky as had to take the side cowl off to disingage
that shifter rod.

So thats my plan in the morning. Unless one of you guys thinks that is
normal for a 225hp 1999 to run its water cooling system like that with
earmuffs. I should have paid closer attention to it before in the driveway,
I only used that back feeder part. But in the river it ****es out much more
powerful,

Any ideas?

thanks


Good on yer. Don't give up the day job yet but you are certainly
getting there.

Cheers,
Bruce

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Thanks for the words of encouragement,, fact is there is no day job as of
lately so I am happy to do this on my own.

So looks like this morning's job is dropping that lower end again and seeing
if there is something missing. There were a few extra parts in the kit that
i have for the impeller change , i thought I put every part back on that I
took off that was available to switch.

I think when putting it back together the tube that goes into the rubber
grommet thing there that is on the top of impeller housing might not have
completely went into that tube thing. I can only think that is the issue.

Or, I can go drop the boat in the river and see if it pees out much more
powerful,,, then everything is correct. This is my prediciment. I think
everything went back together properly, yet never noticed water coming out
from that space before, and never ran the engine on muffs in the driveway.

Would running the engine on muffs make the pee hole water tube outlet less
powerful?

Or should it be exactly the same on water on muffs on that back connection
??

Thanks again













"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 21 Jul 2012 20:34:16 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Interesting update.

Got the 9.9 running Ok, I put the idle screw to 1.75 and started and it
ran
high so backed it out to where it was about at 4.25 it seemed to run ok in
the driveway with earmuffs, idled very nice.
Thanks so much for the advice on that 9.9, so now that I cleaned the carb
and impeller I think the thermostat may be failing. It isn't a sal****er
unit but its been in salt water many times. About 15 years old. Either the
muffs werent tight or the thermostat because I took the thermostate apart
and soaked that brass part in some CLR and cleaned the gunk out of there
and
put it back and really started peeing out that pee hole thing and idled
nice. Feel happy and proud I learned a lot on that 9.9.

So started the main engine the 225hp. Remember few days ago I changed the
impeller in that and thought all went well there. Now here is my situation
,
I never started the engine in the driveway before with earmuffs, only with
that thread in female part at the back where the pee hole view thing pulls
out with sparkplug socket size wrench. So, for first time using the
earmuffs
I notice the pee hole squirter isn't as powerful as it was in the water.
Maybe half, And notice water gushing out between that space between lower
unit and shaft housing, not sure if that is supposed to gush out from
there,
I can only use the earmuffs in the driveway. I think maybe I might have to
pull that lower part off again to see if I missed something when putting
it
back together. It was tricky as had to take the side cowl off to disingage
that shifter rod.

So thats my plan in the morning. Unless one of you guys thinks that is
normal for a 225hp 1999 to run its water cooling system like that with
earmuffs. I should have paid closer attention to it before in the
driveway,
I only used that back feeder part. But in the river it ****es out much
more
powerful,

Any ideas?

thanks


Good on yer. Don't give up the day job yet but you are certainly
getting there.

Cheers,
Bruce

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Little update,,

Had to take a break because it started pouring rain so covered up the engine
and waiting for a about an hour (2 sandwiches, cold pops and some snacks).

Anyway I lowered that lower unit again on the 225hp and found that the
rubber sleeve, or rubber tube grommet that fits inside the impeller housing
cover got caught on the end of that copper pipe coming down from above.
Where the copper pipe has to fit into the impeller housing tubes there was
spun and partially was blocking the tube and flow. Now this would explain
both the gushing out the bottom and reduced pressure coming from that pee
hole. I hope. Havent started yet. But that copper pipe wasn't perfectly
round it had some kind of a dent looking at it, it wasn't perfectly
cemetrical so I sanded it a bit, took off the sharp edges, rounded it,
cleaned it then lubed it and lubed the female rubber pieces it is supposed
to mate into right down to that rubber grommet sleeve at the bottom which
was spun because of that oblonged shape copper.
Now I am only hoping that was what concerned me,,, will know in about later
when it stops raining, will report back.





"Tom" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the words of encouragement,, fact is there is no day job as of
lately so I am happy to do this on my own.

So looks like this morning's job is dropping that lower end again and
seeing if there is something missing. There were a few extra parts in the
kit that i have for the impeller change , i thought I put every part back
on that I took off that was available to switch.

I think when putting it back together the tube that goes into the rubber
grommet thing there that is on the top of impeller housing might not have
completely went into that tube thing. I can only think that is the issue.

Or, I can go drop the boat in the river and see if it pees out much more
powerful,,, then everything is correct. This is my prediciment. I think
everything went back together properly, yet never noticed water coming out
from that space before, and never ran the engine on muffs in the driveway.

Would running the engine on muffs make the pee hole water tube outlet less
powerful?

Or should it be exactly the same on water on muffs on that back connection
??

Thanks again













"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 21 Jul 2012 20:34:16 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Interesting update.

Got the 9.9 running Ok, I put the idle screw to 1.75 and started and it
ran
high so backed it out to where it was about at 4.25 it seemed to run ok
in
the driveway with earmuffs, idled very nice.
Thanks so much for the advice on that 9.9, so now that I cleaned the carb
and impeller I think the thermostat may be failing. It isn't a sal****er
unit but its been in salt water many times. About 15 years old. Either
the
muffs werent tight or the thermostat because I took the thermostate apart
and soaked that brass part in some CLR and cleaned the gunk out of there
and
put it back and really started peeing out that pee hole thing and idled
nice. Feel happy and proud I learned a lot on that 9.9.

So started the main engine the 225hp. Remember few days ago I changed the
impeller in that and thought all went well there. Now here is my
situation ,
I never started the engine in the driveway before with earmuffs, only
with
that thread in female part at the back where the pee hole view thing
pulls
out with sparkplug socket size wrench. So, for first time using the
earmuffs
I notice the pee hole squirter isn't as powerful as it was in the water.
Maybe half, And notice water gushing out between that space between lower
unit and shaft housing, not sure if that is supposed to gush out from
there,
I can only use the earmuffs in the driveway. I think maybe I might have
to
pull that lower part off again to see if I missed something when putting
it
back together. It was tricky as had to take the side cowl off to
disingage
that shifter rod.

So thats my plan in the morning. Unless one of you guys thinks that is
normal for a 225hp 1999 to run its water cooling system like that with
earmuffs. I should have paid closer attention to it before in the
driveway,
I only used that back feeder part. But in the river it ****es out much
more
powerful,

Any ideas?

thanks


Good on yer. Don't give up the day job yet but you are certainly
getting there.

Cheers,
Bruce

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

New update

All went together like it was ok, and started and now I have that pressure i
knew was at that pee hole so much more pressure at that peehole. That rubber
sleeve that was turned sideways that was blocking the tube must have been my
troubles. Still one question. I still see water, though much much less than
before is coming out of those intentional spaces there between the lower
unit and shaft. Is that normal? There were no gaskets there, doesn't look
like any should go there. So when it is running in the driveway with the
muffs should there be water coming out of that space? I am talking about
that space on the moter shaft housing where those four bolts held the lower
unit on. That space is actually 4 spaces about 1 millimeter and is on both
sides.

Is there supposed to be a small amount of water running out of there while
the engine is running? Actually was also coming out as soon as I turned the
hose pressure on before I started the motor. Not much water, about a liter
every few minutes maybe. It was gushing out before but now down to a
trickle. Please let me know if that is normal or not as I will dive down
there again to make sure it is all right again. The replacement kit wasn't
as nice as the original parts so that might have had something to do with it
as I want to re-use some of those originals in good shape. Thanks for the
advice anyone who can add.





"Tom" wrote in message
...
Little update,,

Had to take a break because it started pouring rain so covered up the
engine and waiting for a about an hour (2 sandwiches, cold pops and some
snacks).

Anyway I lowered that lower unit again on the 225hp and found that the
rubber sleeve, or rubber tube grommet that fits inside the impeller
housing cover got caught on the end of that copper pipe coming down from
above. Where the copper pipe has to fit into the impeller housing tubes
there was spun and partially was blocking the tube and flow. Now this
would explain both the gushing out the bottom and reduced pressure coming
from that pee hole. I hope. Havent started yet. But that copper pipe
wasn't perfectly round it had some kind of a dent looking at it, it wasn't
perfectly cemetrical so I sanded it a bit, took off the sharp edges,
rounded it, cleaned it then lubed it and lubed the female rubber pieces it
is supposed to mate into right down to that rubber grommet sleeve at the
bottom which was spun because of that oblonged shape copper.
Now I am only hoping that was what concerned me,,, will know in about
later when it stops raining, will report back.





"Tom" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the words of encouragement,, fact is there is no day job as of
lately so I am happy to do this on my own.

So looks like this morning's job is dropping that lower end again and
seeing if there is something missing. There were a few extra parts in the
kit that i have for the impeller change , i thought I put every part back
on that I took off that was available to switch.

I think when putting it back together the tube that goes into the rubber
grommet thing there that is on the top of impeller housing might not have
completely went into that tube thing. I can only think that is the issue.

Or, I can go drop the boat in the river and see if it pees out much more
powerful,,, then everything is correct. This is my prediciment. I think
everything went back together properly, yet never noticed water coming
out from that space before, and never ran the engine on muffs in the
driveway.

Would running the engine on muffs make the pee hole water tube outlet
less powerful?

Or should it be exactly the same on water on muffs on that back
connection ??

Thanks again













"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 21 Jul 2012 20:34:16 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Interesting update.

Got the 9.9 running Ok, I put the idle screw to 1.75 and started and it
ran
high so backed it out to where it was about at 4.25 it seemed to run ok
in
the driveway with earmuffs, idled very nice.
Thanks so much for the advice on that 9.9, so now that I cleaned the
carb
and impeller I think the thermostat may be failing. It isn't a sal****er
unit but its been in salt water many times. About 15 years old. Either
the
muffs werent tight or the thermostat because I took the thermostate
apart
and soaked that brass part in some CLR and cleaned the gunk out of there
and
put it back and really started peeing out that pee hole thing and idled
nice. Feel happy and proud I learned a lot on that 9.9.

So started the main engine the 225hp. Remember few days ago I changed
the
impeller in that and thought all went well there. Now here is my
situation ,
I never started the engine in the driveway before with earmuffs, only
with
that thread in female part at the back where the pee hole view thing
pulls
out with sparkplug socket size wrench. So, for first time using the
earmuffs
I notice the pee hole squirter isn't as powerful as it was in the water.
Maybe half, And notice water gushing out between that space between
lower
unit and shaft housing, not sure if that is supposed to gush out from
there,
I can only use the earmuffs in the driveway. I think maybe I might have
to
pull that lower part off again to see if I missed something when putting
it
back together. It was tricky as had to take the side cowl off to
disingage
that shifter rod.

So thats my plan in the morning. Unless one of you guys thinks that is
normal for a 225hp 1999 to run its water cooling system like that with
earmuffs. I should have paid closer attention to it before in the
driveway,
I only used that back feeder part. But in the river it ****es out much
more
powerful,

Any ideas?

thanks


Good on yer. Don't give up the day job yet but you are certainly
getting there.

Cheers,
Bruce