9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Here is a pretty accurate site for finding ethenol free fuel distributors.






"Tom" wrote in message
...
Hi
Thanks gentlemen for your advice. I am waiting now for the carb repair kit
to come in. It costs about 24 dollars for complete kit containing float.
Watching a few u-tubes on mechanics doing carb cleaning they all talk
about the damage today's alcohol additives does to these components.

I will certainly be paying much closer attention to the fuels I use in
these engines. I have found some gas stations that have no alcohol in
their fuel and will start adding stableizer to the fuel from now on to
prevent gumming and these issues.

Should these outboards be runned dry after using? Is leaving fuel in the
carbs good idea (stablized) or should run dry then that leaves air in
there, is that worse?

Thanks again gentlemen for the tips, I will let you know how I managed to
do my second carb servicing (first one was my 70 old rotto tiller) and
that was just a take it off, clean it, flush it, rinse it, soak it, clean
that tank and it started first pull and ran like a dream (until it started
stalling again but now I leave the tank full and runs good).

If it aint one thing it is always another,

thanks again

73s






"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 04 Jul 2012 07:20:26 +0700, Bruce
wrote:

On Tue, 3 Jul 2012 17:02:57 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Thanks Bruce

I took the motor for a spin on the weekend, thought it would clear the
clog
and I ran some SeaFoam through it but it did nothing to improve the
lower
idle. Higher speed the motor didn't miss a beat, but slowing the
throttle
down it wanted to stall and pulling the choke was stopping the stall.
But
nothing corrected the issue. Looks like I will have to remove and clean
the
carb.

Is there any procedure for setting those idle screws? Other than where
they
are now, I would hope they are in the right spot.

Anyone have any ideas where those screws should be? I can do what you
suggest Bruce and count the turns and put back in same spot, but what if
that spot is wrong spot?

Some utube videos say tighten the screw then come back 1.5 turns.

Thanks for the ideas


Idle speed or mixture is not really that important an adjustment as it
is effective only in the idle range. If you had no idea at all you
could just get the engine running and holding the RPM above the idle
range make an adjustment. Retard the throttle until the RPM falls into
the idle range and see whether the engine runs smoothly. If it doesn't
try a different adjustment, either open a bit or closed a bit. The
Idle Speed do the same. Get it to run. Make a preliminary adjustment
and see how it goes, adjust to taste :-)

If you have some doubt about the present adjustment why not change it?
A quarter - half a turn in either direction. See how it goes. You can
always return to the original setting.

It is not like the adjustment is some secret setting. Either the
engine will run smoother, or not as smooth (smooth is good) and almost
anyone should be able to figure out is it better or worse.


More to the above. A mate who services most of the outboards in the
Marina casually mentioned a 9.9 HP O.B. he was servicing. I asked him
what sort of carburetor it had on it and he said that it was just a
simple one - no hidden traps or problems and wondered that "the guy"
had been so long at taking his apart and cleaning it :-)

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Ha ha


http://pure-gas.org/





"Tom" wrote in message
...
Here is a pretty accurate site for finding ethenol free fuel distributors.






"Tom" wrote in message
...
Hi
Thanks gentlemen for your advice. I am waiting now for the carb repair
kit to come in. It costs about 24 dollars for complete kit containing
float. Watching a few u-tubes on mechanics doing carb cleaning they all
talk about the damage today's alcohol additives does to these components.

I will certainly be paying much closer attention to the fuels I use in
these engines. I have found some gas stations that have no alcohol in
their fuel and will start adding stableizer to the fuel from now on to
prevent gumming and these issues.

Should these outboards be runned dry after using? Is leaving fuel in the
carbs good idea (stablized) or should run dry then that leaves air in
there, is that worse?

Thanks again gentlemen for the tips, I will let you know how I managed to
do my second carb servicing (first one was my 70 old rotto tiller) and
that was just a take it off, clean it, flush it, rinse it, soak it, clean
that tank and it started first pull and ran like a dream (until it
started stalling again but now I leave the tank full and runs good).

If it aint one thing it is always another,

thanks again

73s






"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 04 Jul 2012 07:20:26 +0700, Bruce
wrote:

On Tue, 3 Jul 2012 17:02:57 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Thanks Bruce

I took the motor for a spin on the weekend, thought it would clear the
clog
and I ran some SeaFoam through it but it did nothing to improve the
lower
idle. Higher speed the motor didn't miss a beat, but slowing the
throttle
down it wanted to stall and pulling the choke was stopping the stall.
But
nothing corrected the issue. Looks like I will have to remove and clean
the
carb.

Is there any procedure for setting those idle screws? Other than where
they
are now, I would hope they are in the right spot.

Anyone have any ideas where those screws should be? I can do what you
suggest Bruce and count the turns and put back in same spot, but what
if
that spot is wrong spot?

Some utube videos say tighten the screw then come back 1.5 turns.

Thanks for the ideas


Idle speed or mixture is not really that important an adjustment as it
is effective only in the idle range. If you had no idea at all you
could just get the engine running and holding the RPM above the idle
range make an adjustment. Retard the throttle until the RPM falls into
the idle range and see whether the engine runs smoothly. If it doesn't
try a different adjustment, either open a bit or closed a bit. The
Idle Speed do the same. Get it to run. Make a preliminary adjustment
and see how it goes, adjust to taste :-)

If you have some doubt about the present adjustment why not change it?
A quarter - half a turn in either direction. See how it goes. You can
always return to the original setting.

It is not like the adjustment is some secret setting. Either the
engine will run smoother, or not as smooth (smooth is good) and almost
anyone should be able to figure out is it better or worse.


More to the above. A mate who services most of the outboards in the
Marina casually mentioned a 9.9 HP O.B. he was servicing. I asked him
what sort of carburetor it had on it and he said that it was just a
simple one - no hidden traps or problems and wondered that "the guy"
had been so long at taking his apart and cleaning it :-)

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Thanks boys for all the advice, I took the carb off, replaced the parts that
came with the kit and the float and you were absolutely right. There was so
much varnish in those jets, I just used a whole can of carb cleaner and a
compressed air thing and kept cleaning and it all came out and while I
haven't started it yet, I know that those holes were clogged, there was
corrosion and water and other stuff. I am going to pay more closer attention
to the fuel. The blue sta-bil is not a must.

One question, many were talking about that idle screw on the carb. I think
it is the needle valve for slow speed. On the side of the starboard side of
the carb. Some said work it in to the end then back it out 1.5 turns. Mine
was worked into the end then backed out 4.25 turns. I haven't started it yet
because replacing fuel lines with the newer ones so will soon but where
should that idle screw be? 1.5 or 4.25 ? I have it at 4.25 now but wondering
if that is a problem or how to set that.

Thanks






"Wayne B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 08:19:10 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Should these outboards be runned dry after using?

======


That is the best way to prevent carburetor problems, plus some
stabilizer in the fuel to minimize gumming in the tank.

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

On Fri, 20 Jul 2012 10:40:47 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Thanks boys for all the advice, I took the carb off, replaced the parts that
came with the kit and the float and you were absolutely right. There was so
much varnish in those jets, I just used a whole can of carb cleaner and a
compressed air thing and kept cleaning and it all came out and while I
haven't started it yet, I know that those holes were clogged, there was
corrosion and water and other stuff. I am going to pay more closer attention
to the fuel. The blue sta-bil is not a must.

One question, many were talking about that idle screw on the carb. I think
it is the needle valve for slow speed. On the side of the starboard side of
the carb. Some said work it in to the end then back it out 1.5 turns. Mine
was worked into the end then backed out 4.25 turns. I haven't started it yet
because replacing fuel lines with the newer ones so will soon but where
should that idle screw be? 1.5 or 4.25 ? I have it at 4.25 now but wondering
if that is a problem or how to set that.

Thanks


It is not a critical adjustment. In fact, most engines will run at
higher then idle speed with the idle screw (valve) all the way closed.
Just get the engine running, then it is just a matter of idling the
engine down and if it doesn't run right adjusting the idle screw until
the engine runs as smoothly as possible. It may take you a few tries
but you aren't going to break anything.
Cheers,
Bruce

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Yes thanks, I just mixed in some marine Sta-Bil to the fresh tank of none
ethenol fuel, replaced the lines, primer bulb and the clip end. The plastic
tank also so it is all fresh but will wait til morn to start it. I will let
you know how runs. Thnx



"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 20 Jul 2012 10:40:47 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Thanks boys for all the advice, I took the carb off, replaced the parts
that
came with the kit and the float and you were absolutely right. There was
so
much varnish in those jets, I just used a whole can of carb cleaner and a
compressed air thing and kept cleaning and it all came out and while I
haven't started it yet, I know that those holes were clogged, there was
corrosion and water and other stuff. I am going to pay more closer
attention
to the fuel. The blue sta-bil is not a must.

One question, many were talking about that idle screw on the carb. I think
it is the needle valve for slow speed. On the side of the starboard side
of
the carb. Some said work it in to the end then back it out 1.5 turns. Mine
was worked into the end then backed out 4.25 turns. I haven't started it
yet
because replacing fuel lines with the newer ones so will soon but where
should that idle screw be? 1.5 or 4.25 ? I have it at 4.25 now but
wondering
if that is a problem or how to set that.

Thanks


It is not a critical adjustment. In fact, most engines will run at
higher then idle speed with the idle screw (valve) all the way closed.
Just get the engine running, then it is just a matter of idling the
engine down and if it doesn't run right adjusting the idle screw until
the engine runs as smoothly as possible. It may take you a few tries
but you aren't going to break anything.
Cheers,
Bruce

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Interesting update.

Got the 9.9 running Ok, I put the idle screw to 1.75 and started and it ran
high so backed it out to where it was about at 4.25 it seemed to run ok in
the driveway with earmuffs, idled very nice.
Thanks so much for the advice on that 9.9, so now that I cleaned the carb
and impeller I think the thermostat may be failing. It isn't a sal****er
unit but its been in salt water many times. About 15 years old. Either the
muffs werent tight or the thermostat because I took the thermostate apart
and soaked that brass part in some CLR and cleaned the gunk out of there and
put it back and really started peeing out that pee hole thing and idled
nice. Feel happy and proud I learned a lot on that 9.9.

So started the main engine the 225hp. Remember few days ago I changed the
impeller in that and thought all went well there. Now here is my situation ,
I never started the engine in the driveway before with earmuffs, only with
that thread in female part at the back where the pee hole view thing pulls
out with sparkplug socket size wrench. So, for first time using the earmuffs
I notice the pee hole squirter isn't as powerful as it was in the water.
Maybe half, And notice water gushing out between that space between lower
unit and shaft housing, not sure if that is supposed to gush out from there,
I can only use the earmuffs in the driveway. I think maybe I might have to
pull that lower part off again to see if I missed something when putting it
back together. It was tricky as had to take the side cowl off to disingage
that shifter rod.

So thats my plan in the morning. Unless one of you guys thinks that is
normal for a 225hp 1999 to run its water cooling system like that with
earmuffs. I should have paid closer attention to it before in the driveway,
I only used that back feeder part. But in the river it ****es out much more
powerful,

Any ideas?

thanks





"WaIIy" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 20 Jul 2012 10:40:47 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

One question, many were talking about that idle screw on the carb. I think
it is the needle valve for slow speed. On the side of the starboard side
of
the carb. Some said work it in to the end then back it out 1.5 turns. Mine
was worked into the end then backed out 4.25 turns. I haven't started it
yet
because replacing fuel lines with the newer ones so will soon but where
should that idle screw be? 1.5 or 4.25 ? I have it at 4.25 now but
wondering
if that is a problem or how to set that.


Sounds like "someone" screwed it out too far in an attempt to get it to
idle.

1 1/2 - 2 turns should be your starting point.

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

On Sat, 21 Jul 2012 20:34:16 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Interesting update.

Got the 9.9 running Ok, I put the idle screw to 1.75 and started and it ran
high so backed it out to where it was about at 4.25 it seemed to run ok in
the driveway with earmuffs, idled very nice.
Thanks so much for the advice on that 9.9, so now that I cleaned the carb
and impeller I think the thermostat may be failing. It isn't a sal****er
unit but its been in salt water many times. About 15 years old. Either the
muffs werent tight or the thermostat because I took the thermostate apart
and soaked that brass part in some CLR and cleaned the gunk out of there and
put it back and really started peeing out that pee hole thing and idled
nice. Feel happy and proud I learned a lot on that 9.9.

So started the main engine the 225hp. Remember few days ago I changed the
impeller in that and thought all went well there. Now here is my situation ,
I never started the engine in the driveway before with earmuffs, only with
that thread in female part at the back where the pee hole view thing pulls
out with sparkplug socket size wrench. So, for first time using the earmuffs
I notice the pee hole squirter isn't as powerful as it was in the water.
Maybe half, And notice water gushing out between that space between lower
unit and shaft housing, not sure if that is supposed to gush out from there,
I can only use the earmuffs in the driveway. I think maybe I might have to
pull that lower part off again to see if I missed something when putting it
back together. It was tricky as had to take the side cowl off to disingage
that shifter rod.

So thats my plan in the morning. Unless one of you guys thinks that is
normal for a 225hp 1999 to run its water cooling system like that with
earmuffs. I should have paid closer attention to it before in the driveway,
I only used that back feeder part. But in the river it ****es out much more
powerful,

Any ideas?

thanks


Good on yer. Don't give up the day job yet but you are certainly
getting there.

Cheers,
Bruce

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Thanks for the words of encouragement,, fact is there is no day job as of
lately so I am happy to do this on my own.

So looks like this morning's job is dropping that lower end again and seeing
if there is something missing. There were a few extra parts in the kit that
i have for the impeller change , i thought I put every part back on that I
took off that was available to switch.

I think when putting it back together the tube that goes into the rubber
grommet thing there that is on the top of impeller housing might not have
completely went into that tube thing. I can only think that is the issue.

Or, I can go drop the boat in the river and see if it pees out much more
powerful,,, then everything is correct. This is my prediciment. I think
everything went back together properly, yet never noticed water coming out
from that space before, and never ran the engine on muffs in the driveway.

Would running the engine on muffs make the pee hole water tube outlet less
powerful?

Or should it be exactly the same on water on muffs on that back connection
??

Thanks again













"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 21 Jul 2012 20:34:16 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Interesting update.

Got the 9.9 running Ok, I put the idle screw to 1.75 and started and it
ran
high so backed it out to where it was about at 4.25 it seemed to run ok in
the driveway with earmuffs, idled very nice.
Thanks so much for the advice on that 9.9, so now that I cleaned the carb
and impeller I think the thermostat may be failing. It isn't a sal****er
unit but its been in salt water many times. About 15 years old. Either the
muffs werent tight or the thermostat because I took the thermostate apart
and soaked that brass part in some CLR and cleaned the gunk out of there
and
put it back and really started peeing out that pee hole thing and idled
nice. Feel happy and proud I learned a lot on that 9.9.

So started the main engine the 225hp. Remember few days ago I changed the
impeller in that and thought all went well there. Now here is my situation
,
I never started the engine in the driveway before with earmuffs, only with
that thread in female part at the back where the pee hole view thing pulls
out with sparkplug socket size wrench. So, for first time using the
earmuffs
I notice the pee hole squirter isn't as powerful as it was in the water.
Maybe half, And notice water gushing out between that space between lower
unit and shaft housing, not sure if that is supposed to gush out from
there,
I can only use the earmuffs in the driveway. I think maybe I might have to
pull that lower part off again to see if I missed something when putting
it
back together. It was tricky as had to take the side cowl off to disingage
that shifter rod.

So thats my plan in the morning. Unless one of you guys thinks that is
normal for a 225hp 1999 to run its water cooling system like that with
earmuffs. I should have paid closer attention to it before in the
driveway,
I only used that back feeder part. But in the river it ****es out much
more
powerful,

Any ideas?

thanks


Good on yer. Don't give up the day job yet but you are certainly
getting there.

Cheers,
Bruce

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

Little update,,

Had to take a break because it started pouring rain so covered up the engine
and waiting for a about an hour (2 sandwiches, cold pops and some snacks).

Anyway I lowered that lower unit again on the 225hp and found that the
rubber sleeve, or rubber tube grommet that fits inside the impeller housing
cover got caught on the end of that copper pipe coming down from above.
Where the copper pipe has to fit into the impeller housing tubes there was
spun and partially was blocking the tube and flow. Now this would explain
both the gushing out the bottom and reduced pressure coming from that pee
hole. I hope. Havent started yet. But that copper pipe wasn't perfectly
round it had some kind of a dent looking at it, it wasn't perfectly
cemetrical so I sanded it a bit, took off the sharp edges, rounded it,
cleaned it then lubed it and lubed the female rubber pieces it is supposed
to mate into right down to that rubber grommet sleeve at the bottom which
was spun because of that oblonged shape copper.
Now I am only hoping that was what concerned me,,, will know in about later
when it stops raining, will report back.





"Tom" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the words of encouragement,, fact is there is no day job as of
lately so I am happy to do this on my own.

So looks like this morning's job is dropping that lower end again and
seeing if there is something missing. There were a few extra parts in the
kit that i have for the impeller change , i thought I put every part back
on that I took off that was available to switch.

I think when putting it back together the tube that goes into the rubber
grommet thing there that is on the top of impeller housing might not have
completely went into that tube thing. I can only think that is the issue.

Or, I can go drop the boat in the river and see if it pees out much more
powerful,,, then everything is correct. This is my prediciment. I think
everything went back together properly, yet never noticed water coming out
from that space before, and never ran the engine on muffs in the driveway.

Would running the engine on muffs make the pee hole water tube outlet less
powerful?

Or should it be exactly the same on water on muffs on that back connection
??

Thanks again













"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 21 Jul 2012 20:34:16 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Interesting update.

Got the 9.9 running Ok, I put the idle screw to 1.75 and started and it
ran
high so backed it out to where it was about at 4.25 it seemed to run ok
in
the driveway with earmuffs, idled very nice.
Thanks so much for the advice on that 9.9, so now that I cleaned the carb
and impeller I think the thermostat may be failing. It isn't a sal****er
unit but its been in salt water many times. About 15 years old. Either
the
muffs werent tight or the thermostat because I took the thermostate apart
and soaked that brass part in some CLR and cleaned the gunk out of there
and
put it back and really started peeing out that pee hole thing and idled
nice. Feel happy and proud I learned a lot on that 9.9.

So started the main engine the 225hp. Remember few days ago I changed the
impeller in that and thought all went well there. Now here is my
situation ,
I never started the engine in the driveway before with earmuffs, only
with
that thread in female part at the back where the pee hole view thing
pulls
out with sparkplug socket size wrench. So, for first time using the
earmuffs
I notice the pee hole squirter isn't as powerful as it was in the water.
Maybe half, And notice water gushing out between that space between lower
unit and shaft housing, not sure if that is supposed to gush out from
there,
I can only use the earmuffs in the driveway. I think maybe I might have
to
pull that lower part off again to see if I missed something when putting
it
back together. It was tricky as had to take the side cowl off to
disingage
that shifter rod.

So thats my plan in the morning. Unless one of you guys thinks that is
normal for a 225hp 1999 to run its water cooling system like that with
earmuffs. I should have paid closer attention to it before in the
driveway,
I only used that back feeder part. But in the river it ****es out much
more
powerful,

Any ideas?

thanks


Good on yer. Don't give up the day job yet but you are certainly
getting there.

Cheers,
Bruce

9.9hp outboard question ?
 

New update

All went together like it was ok, and started and now I have that pressure i
knew was at that pee hole so much more pressure at that peehole. That rubber
sleeve that was turned sideways that was blocking the tube must have been my
troubles. Still one question. I still see water, though much much less than
before is coming out of those intentional spaces there between the lower
unit and shaft. Is that normal? There were no gaskets there, doesn't look
like any should go there. So when it is running in the driveway with the
muffs should there be water coming out of that space? I am talking about
that space on the moter shaft housing where those four bolts held the lower
unit on. That space is actually 4 spaces about 1 millimeter and is on both
sides.

Is there supposed to be a small amount of water running out of there while
the engine is running? Actually was also coming out as soon as I turned the
hose pressure on before I started the motor. Not much water, about a liter
every few minutes maybe. It was gushing out before but now down to a
trickle. Please let me know if that is normal or not as I will dive down
there again to make sure it is all right again. The replacement kit wasn't
as nice as the original parts so that might have had something to do with it
as I want to re-use some of those originals in good shape. Thanks for the
advice anyone who can add.





"Tom" wrote in message
...
Little update,,

Had to take a break because it started pouring rain so covered up the
engine and waiting for a about an hour (2 sandwiches, cold pops and some
snacks).

Anyway I lowered that lower unit again on the 225hp and found that the
rubber sleeve, or rubber tube grommet that fits inside the impeller
housing cover got caught on the end of that copper pipe coming down from
above. Where the copper pipe has to fit into the impeller housing tubes
there was spun and partially was blocking the tube and flow. Now this
would explain both the gushing out the bottom and reduced pressure coming
from that pee hole. I hope. Havent started yet. But that copper pipe
wasn't perfectly round it had some kind of a dent looking at it, it wasn't
perfectly cemetrical so I sanded it a bit, took off the sharp edges,
rounded it, cleaned it then lubed it and lubed the female rubber pieces it
is supposed to mate into right down to that rubber grommet sleeve at the
bottom which was spun because of that oblonged shape copper.
Now I am only hoping that was what concerned me,,, will know in about
later when it stops raining, will report back.





"Tom" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the words of encouragement,, fact is there is no day job as of
lately so I am happy to do this on my own.

So looks like this morning's job is dropping that lower end again and
seeing if there is something missing. There were a few extra parts in the
kit that i have for the impeller change , i thought I put every part back
on that I took off that was available to switch.

I think when putting it back together the tube that goes into the rubber
grommet thing there that is on the top of impeller housing might not have
completely went into that tube thing. I can only think that is the issue.

Or, I can go drop the boat in the river and see if it pees out much more
powerful,,, then everything is correct. This is my prediciment. I think
everything went back together properly, yet never noticed water coming
out from that space before, and never ran the engine on muffs in the
driveway.

Would running the engine on muffs make the pee hole water tube outlet
less powerful?

Or should it be exactly the same on water on muffs on that back
connection ??

Thanks again













"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 21 Jul 2012 20:34:16 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Interesting update.

Got the 9.9 running Ok, I put the idle screw to 1.75 and started and it
ran
high so backed it out to where it was about at 4.25 it seemed to run ok
in
the driveway with earmuffs, idled very nice.
Thanks so much for the advice on that 9.9, so now that I cleaned the
carb
and impeller I think the thermostat may be failing. It isn't a sal****er
unit but its been in salt water many times. About 15 years old. Either
the
muffs werent tight or the thermostat because I took the thermostate
apart
and soaked that brass part in some CLR and cleaned the gunk out of there
and
put it back and really started peeing out that pee hole thing and idled
nice. Feel happy and proud I learned a lot on that 9.9.

So started the main engine the 225hp. Remember few days ago I changed
the
impeller in that and thought all went well there. Now here is my
situation ,
I never started the engine in the driveway before with earmuffs, only
with
that thread in female part at the back where the pee hole view thing
pulls
out with sparkplug socket size wrench. So, for first time using the
earmuffs
I notice the pee hole squirter isn't as powerful as it was in the water.
Maybe half, And notice water gushing out between that space between
lower
unit and shaft housing, not sure if that is supposed to gush out from
there,
I can only use the earmuffs in the driveway. I think maybe I might have
to
pull that lower part off again to see if I missed something when putting
it
back together. It was tricky as had to take the side cowl off to
disingage
that shifter rod.

So thats my plan in the morning. Unless one of you guys thinks that is
normal for a 225hp 1999 to run its water cooling system like that with
earmuffs. I should have paid closer attention to it before in the
driveway,
I only used that back feeder part. But in the river it ****es out much
more
powerful,

Any ideas?

thanks


Good on yer. Don't give up the day job yet but you are certainly
getting there.

Cheers,
Bruce