Greetings, all you thinkers...

I have an apparently immobile center-remains of an intermediate drive shaft
bearing which has resisted all my efforts so far to get it to slide up the
shaft.

I'll skip the gory details of how we got to this point other than to say it
must come off if I am to remove the shaft for shortening and checking for
straight, redoing the cutlass bearing, and so on. The need for shortening
was shooting myself in the foot when I replaced the shaft as we bought it
(pitted, scored, and I wanted more length) by making it too long and thus
having too much beyond the cutlass bearing, allowing enough movement out
there to cause whip in the middle of the 9'+ shaft, and thus the
installation of an intermediate bearing.

That it didn't have, or, I expect, need one (or the extremely anal surveyor
would have commented on it during our sea trial), suggests that shortening
it to the minimum possible (along with the newly rebuilt - and thus
balanced - Maxprop) will make that feature unneeded.

In any event, the picture gallery is the Maxprop - Shaft - Bearing folio in
the 2011 refit section of my gallery linked below, if you care to see what's
happened so far.

I got the setscrews out after long periods of soaking and trying and
banging, but all my efforts at getting it to slide up the shaft, so far,
have been for naught.

That is, except for what I assume must be SOME movement, as, before I
thought far enough ahead about the potential for dings, I whacked it with a
long, BIG screwdriver (the only suitable - as much as it WASN'T really
suitable - driver I had to hand) without protecting the shaft. Looking
closely, I see a half-dozen or so closely-spaced nicks which I presume were
the screwdriver's fault (well, mine, of course!), and perhaps a quarter-inch
of blank space (presumed gained when I quit putting the screwdriver on the
shaft!). This leads me to believe that I have, in fact moved it slightly,
but no further.

Why NOT no further doesn't compute, as there's nothing up the shaft which
would have the mass or chops to impede its sliding - and, certainly, it
won't move back down the shaft (or, at least, I don't have the access to
whack it from the other direction, and its currently immobile condition
suggests I'd not be able to move it by hand).

I've tried heating it, but I don't have anything which can inject massive
amounts of heat quickly, so that's probably the reason it didn't help. I've
anti-seized it to death, with no apparent difference, despite my seeing that
it appears to run through relatively easily (seep down from up to down
angle, setscrew holes filled, then emptying over time).

My 10-years internet buddy, recently ex- of this yard, who's faced most of
the challenges I have, tells me to cut it off with a cutoff in my angle
grinder as he did with his. As I don't want to accidentally involve my
shaft, I've not done that, but am approaching the point where I measure the
height of the bearing and mark my cutoff wheel to a depth slightly less than
that (becoming even more less as the material is worn off in cutting), and
have at it. Certainly, cutting off the housing and the race worked
adequately. But I'd rather just slide it up.

Any other ideas?

Thanks, y'all...

L8R

Skip

--

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

When a man comes to like a sea life, he is not fit to live on land.
- Dr. Samuel Johnson

On Sun, 25 Mar 2012 12:08:08 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

Any other ideas?

===

Aero Kroil??

PB Blaster??

Bigger hammer??

Dry ice on the shaft, heat on the bearing??

"Wayne B" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 25 Mar 2012 12:08:08 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

Any other ideas?

===

Aero Kroil??

PB Blaster??

Bigger hammer??

Dry ice on the shaft, heat on the bearing??


All of the above already, but I'm thinking about dry ice, too...

L8R

Skip

--

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

When a man comes to like a sea life, he is not fit to live on land.
- Dr. Samuel Johnson

I've come to the point of cutting. I'll not go back with a bearing unless
forced to do so; my analysis and comparison of the prior installation (when
we bought the boat) strongly suggests that when I fix what I presume to be
the problem (excessive length beyond the cutlass, exacerbated by a dinged
prop), the earlier referenced self foot-shooting, the whip will disappear.
I'll be going quite a bit further than the previous installation in removing
excess length beyond the cutlass, so much the better (methinks, anyway).

And, I'd thought to do the opposed cuts, too. That way, should I succeed in
snapping it open on the top with a chisel or other splitter, the halves
would have room to move (making it easier to split/deform) toward each other
on the bottom.

Thanks, all. Pix to follow. Current debate internally is about dremel or
grinder, both of which I have aboard. Seems to me, with the horses
available, that a dremel would take figuratively forever, but, OTOH, might
have lesser possibilities for shaft impingement ($2 word meaning cut!) due
to slower progress and lighter weight presuming better control. Maybe both,
with the gross cutting done with the grinder...

Hmmm. Thinking about it, I believe that the dremel wheels might not be deep
enough to penetrate all the way. I'll have to see when I dig it out.

So, perhaps today, I'll have both of my vexing challenges settled, as I'll
also be EZ-outing my headless bolt...

L8R

Skip

--

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

When a man comes to like a sea life, he is not fit to live on land.
- Dr. Samuel Johnson

In article , says...

I've come to the point of cutting. I'll not go back with a bearing unless
forced to do so; my analysis and comparison of the prior installation (when
we bought the boat) strongly suggests that when I fix what I presume to be
the problem (excessive length beyond the cutlass, exacerbated by a dinged
prop), the earlier referenced self foot-shooting, the whip will disappear.
I'll be going quite a bit further than the previous installation in removing
excess length beyond the cutlass, so much the better (methinks, anyway).

And, I'd thought to do the opposed cuts, too. That way, should I succeed in
snapping it open on the top with a chisel or other splitter, the halves
would have room to move (making it easier to split/deform) toward each other
on the bottom.

Thanks, all. Pix to follow. Current debate internally is about dremel or
grinder, both of which I have aboard. Seems to me, with the horses
available, that a dremel would take figuratively forever, but, OTOH, might
have lesser possibilities for shaft impingement ($2 word meaning cut!) due
to slower progress and lighter weight presuming better control. Maybe both,
with the gross cutting done with the grinder...

Hmmm. Thinking about it, I believe that the dremel wheels might not be deep
enough to penetrate all the way. I'll have to see when I dig it out.

So, perhaps today, I'll have both of my vexing challenges settled, as I'll
also be EZ-outing my headless bolt...

The dremel wheel may not cut through the whole bearing at once. Your
maximum cut depth will be about 0.5" with a new wheel---less as it
wears.

However, you may be able to cut the outer race first, remove it and
the balls or rollers, then have a pretty shallow cut on the inner race.

While the Dremel doesn't have the power of a large grinder, it has to
remove much less metal---as the wheels are only about 1/16" thick.

Mark Borgerson

"Mark Borgerson" wrote in message
...

..

However, you may be able to cut the outer race first, remove it and
the balls or rollers, then have a pretty shallow cut on the inner race.

While the Dremel doesn't have the power of a large grinder, it has to
remove much less metal---as the wheels are only about 1/16" thick.

Mark Borgerson






If you look at the pix in the 2011 refit gallery, you'll see that all is
gone other than the inner part which rests on the shaft. That I did with
the grinder/cutoff wheel. That part is also the one I've been anti-seizing
and hitting, to no avail.

That (the grinder/cutoff wheel) is what I'll use for the remainder. I've
got the depth from top to shaft with a micrometer and I'll use that to mark
several places on the wheel which, spinning, will look like a circle. I'll
never go deeper than that, and, as the wheel wears, it will actually be
short of where I need to be, so I should be OK with that. I'll do a final
cut(s - opposing sides) with another markup on the wheel once I have the
majority of the cut accomplished..

Thanks for all the thoughts and suggestions. The moment of truth is at
hand...

L8R

Skip

--

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

When a man comes to like a sea life, he is not fit to live on land.
- Dr. Samuel Johnson

On Sun, 25 Mar 2012 12:08:08 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

Greetings, all you thinkers...

I have an apparently immobile center-remains of an intermediate drive shaft
bearing which has resisted all my efforts so far to get it to slide up the
shaft.

I'll skip the gory details of how we got to this point other than to say it
must come off if I am to remove the shaft for shortening and checking for
straight, redoing the cutlass bearing, and so on. The need for shortening
was shooting myself in the foot when I replaced the shaft as we bought it
(pitted, scored, and I wanted more length) by making it too long and thus
having too much beyond the cutlass bearing, allowing enough movement out
there to cause whip in the middle of the 9'+ shaft, and thus the
installation of an intermediate bearing.

That it didn't have, or, I expect, need one (or the extremely anal surveyor
would have commented on it during our sea trial), suggests that shortening
it to the minimum possible (along with the newly rebuilt - and thus
balanced - Maxprop) will make that feature unneeded.

In any event, the picture gallery is the Maxprop - Shaft - Bearing folio in
the 2011 refit section of my gallery linked below, if you care to see what's
happened so far.

I got the setscrews out after long periods of soaking and trying and
banging, but all my efforts at getting it to slide up the shaft, so far,
have been for naught.

That is, except for what I assume must be SOME movement, as, before I
thought far enough ahead about the potential for dings, I whacked it with a
long, BIG screwdriver (the only suitable - as much as it WASN'T really
suitable - driver I had to hand) without protecting the shaft. Looking
closely, I see a half-dozen or so closely-spaced nicks which I presume were
the screwdriver's fault (well, mine, of course!), and perhaps a quarter-inch
of blank space (presumed gained when I quit putting the screwdriver on the
shaft!). This leads me to believe that I have, in fact moved it slightly,
but no further.

Why NOT no further doesn't compute, as there's nothing up the shaft which
would have the mass or chops to impede its sliding - and, certainly, it
won't move back down the shaft (or, at least, I don't have the access to
whack it from the other direction, and its currently immobile condition
suggests I'd not be able to move it by hand).

I've tried heating it, but I don't have anything which can inject massive
amounts of heat quickly, so that's probably the reason it didn't help. I've
anti-seized it to death, with no apparent difference, despite my seeing that
it appears to run through relatively easily (seep down from up to down
angle, setscrew holes filled, then emptying over time).

My 10-years internet buddy, recently ex- of this yard, who's faced most of
the challenges I have, tells me to cut it off with a cutoff in my angle
grinder as he did with his. As I don't want to accidentally involve my
shaft, I've not done that, but am approaching the point where I measure the
height of the bearing and mark my cutoff wheel to a depth slightly less than
that (becoming even more less as the material is worn off in cutting), and
have at it. Certainly, cutting off the housing and the race worked
adequately. But I'd rather just slide it up.

Any other ideas?

Thanks, y'all...

L8R

Skip

The best method IS to cut it off using a 4 inch angle grinder with a 1
mm cutting disk. Grind/cut down through the bearing nearly to the
shaft. Then, supporting the shaft, use a cold chisel and hammer to
wedge the slot you just cut apart breaking the bearing. If necessary,
do this 180 degrees apart.

Note that you do not have to grind into the shaft; just get close. Say
1/16th - 1/8th inch away. Of course, the closer the easier to break
the ring.

Attempting to slide a closely fitted sleeve a long distance along a
shaft is usually just asking for punishment :-(

--
Cheers,

Bruce

In article , says...

Greetings, all you thinkers...

I have an apparently immobile center-remains of an intermediate drive shaft
bearing which has resisted all my efforts so far to get it to slide up the
shaft.

I'll skip the gory details of how we got to this point other than to say it
must come off if I am to remove the shaft for shortening and checking for
straight, redoing the cutlass bearing, and so on. The need for shortening
was shooting myself in the foot when I replaced the shaft as we bought it
(pitted, scored, and I wanted more length) by making it too long and thus
having too much beyond the cutlass bearing, allowing enough movement out
there to cause whip in the middle of the 9'+ shaft, and thus the
installation of an intermediate bearing.

That it didn't have, or, I expect, need one (or the extremely anal surveyor
would have commented on it during our sea trial), suggests that shortening
it to the minimum possible (along with the newly rebuilt - and thus
balanced - Maxprop) will make that feature unneeded.

In any event, the picture gallery is the Maxprop - Shaft - Bearing folio in
the 2011 refit section of my gallery linked below, if you care to see what's
happened so far.

I got the setscrews out after long periods of soaking and trying and
banging, but all my efforts at getting it to slide up the shaft, so far,
have been for naught.

That is, except for what I assume must be SOME movement, as, before I
thought far enough ahead about the potential for dings, I whacked it with a
long, BIG screwdriver (the only suitable - as much as it WASN'T really
suitable - driver I had to hand) without protecting the shaft. Looking
closely, I see a half-dozen or so closely-spaced nicks which I presume were
the screwdriver's fault (well, mine, of course!), and perhaps a quarter-inch
of blank space (presumed gained when I quit putting the screwdriver on the
shaft!). This leads me to believe that I have, in fact moved it slightly,
but no further.

Why NOT no further doesn't compute, as there's nothing up the shaft which
would have the mass or chops to impede its sliding - and, certainly, it
won't move back down the shaft (or, at least, I don't have the access to
whack it from the other direction, and its currently immobile condition
suggests I'd not be able to move it by hand).

I've tried heating it, but I don't have anything which can inject massive
amounts of heat quickly, so that's probably the reason it didn't help. I've
anti-seized it to death, with no apparent difference, despite my seeing that
it appears to run through relatively easily (seep down from up to down
angle, setscrew holes filled, then emptying over time).

My 10-years internet buddy, recently ex- of this yard, who's faced most of
the challenges I have, tells me to cut it off with a cutoff in my angle
grinder as he did with his. As I don't want to accidentally involve my
shaft, I've not done that, but am approaching the point where I measure the
height of the bearing and mark my cutoff wheel to a depth slightly less than
that (becoming even more less as the material is worn off in cutting), and
have at it. Certainly, cutting off the housing and the race worked
adequately. But I'd rather just slide it up.

Any other ideas?

This is the kind of problem I've solved in the past with a Dremel tool
and cutoff wheels. Two diametrically opposite cuts through the bearing
and you remove the two halves of the bearing. If you've moved the
bearing past the part of the shaft where the new one will have to seat,
so much the better. You will have to be less careful of scoring the
shaft itself.

It may take a full package of the cutoff wheels. They are fairly
fragile. But they are not terribly expensive, either.

Mark Borgerson