Toe Rail Recaulk

I'm at the stage in my chores that I'm digging out all the old caulking (3M
101 at the time - it's no longer available) to recaulk our toerail.

My fiberglass supplier, with a long history in the boatbuilding biz, is
recommending Bostic 940FS. Water cleanup and tooling, it looks easy to work
with, with a 20 minute skin time..

I'm having some serious questions as to the wisdom of using this material.
The 101 I'm taking out in some places is very resistant to removal (others
pull our fine with the V-shaped tool I'm using to get under the center and
catch the edges in one pass).

However, that's merely caulk, and not an adhesive. Knowing 5200's
reputation for later removal makes me think twice. I hope I don't, but
realistically I expect that at some point in the future, I'll be recaulking
the toe rail. Whether I'd be able to get this stuff out without treating it
(time, money, ?? impact on the paint/teak) is keeping my attention right
now.

Has anyone used this stuff (Bostic 940FS) to say how it behaves,
particularly in having to remove it?

Secondly, if you've had years of experience (how does it hold up?), if not
this, what do you use which is currently available (101's not)?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

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"Flying Pig" wrote in message
...
Toe Rail Recaulk



Sikaflex!!!!

Subject

Talk to SikaFlex tech service in metro Detroit.

They have an 800# and are very knowledgeable.

Lew

On Mon, 29 Aug 2011 12:01:47 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

Toe Rail Recaulk

I'm at the stage in my chores that I'm digging out all the old caulking (3M
101 at the time - it's no longer available) to recaulk our toerail.

My fiberglass supplier, with a long history in the boatbuilding biz, is
recommending Bostic 940FS. Water cleanup and tooling, it looks easy to work
with, with a 20 minute skin time..

I'm having some serious questions as to the wisdom of using this material.
The 101 I'm taking out in some places is very resistant to removal (others
pull our fine with the V-shaped tool I'm using to get under the center and
catch the edges in one pass).

However, that's merely caulk, and not an adhesive. Knowing 5200's
reputation for later removal makes me think twice. I hope I don't, but
realistically I expect that at some point in the future, I'll be recaulking
the toe rail. Whether I'd be able to get this stuff out without treating it
(time, money, ?? impact on the paint/teak) is keeping my attention right
now.

Has anyone used this stuff (Bostic 940FS) to say how it behaves,
particularly in having to remove it?

Secondly, if you've had years of experience (how does it hold up?), if not
this, what do you use which is currently available (101's not)?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

The majority seem to be using either 3M 5200, or it's quick setting
brother, or one of the Sikaflex sealants/adhesives.

Bostic 940FS has a tensile strength of 255 psi @ non-stated
elongation, but over 100%

3M 5200 has a tensile strength of 700 psi with 1350% elongation before
break.

The Bostic cleans up with water, the 3M cleans up with 3M cleaner,
white spirits, diesel fuel, etc.

But a question. If you use 5200 why do you think that you would later
be recaulking?

Cheers,

Bruce

On Tue, 30 Aug 2011 07:21:19 +0700, Bruce
wrote:

On Mon, 29 Aug 2011 12:01:47 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

Toe Rail Recaulk

I'm at the stage in my chores that I'm digging out all the old caulking (3M
101 at the time - it's no longer available) to recaulk our toerail.

My fiberglass supplier, with a long history in the boatbuilding biz, is
recommending Bostic 940FS. Water cleanup and tooling, it looks easy to work
with, with a 20 minute skin time..

I'm having some serious questions as to the wisdom of using this material.
The 101 I'm taking out in some places is very resistant to removal (others
pull our fine with the V-shaped tool I'm using to get under the center and
catch the edges in one pass).

However, that's merely caulk, and not an adhesive. Knowing 5200's
reputation for later removal makes me think twice. I hope I don't, but
realistically I expect that at some point in the future, I'll be recaulking
the toe rail. Whether I'd be able to get this stuff out without treating it
(time, money, ?? impact on the paint/teak) is keeping my attention right
now.

Has anyone used this stuff (Bostic 940FS) to say how it behaves,
particularly in having to remove it?

Secondly, if you've had years of experience (how does it hold up?), if not
this, what do you use which is currently available (101's not)?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

The majority seem to be using either 3M 5200, or it's quick setting
brother, or one of the Sikaflex sealants/adhesives.

Bostic 940FS has a tensile strength of 255 psi @ non-stated
elongation, but over 100%

3M 5200 has a tensile strength of 700 psi with 1350% elongation before
break.

The Bostic cleans up with water, the 3M cleans up with 3M cleaner,
white spirits, diesel fuel, etc.

But a question. If you use 5200 why do you think that you would later
be recaulking?


================================================== =====

We've had good luck with 3M 4000 UV Marine Fast Cure Sealant on areas
that that are exposed to direct sunlight.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=2005

On Mon, 29 Aug 2011 20:48:42 -0400, Wayne B
wrote:

We've had good luck with 3M 4000 UV Marine Fast Cure Sealant on areas
that that are exposed to direct sunlight.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=2005


PS, It cleans up very well with WD-40, spray it on, wipe it off.

On Mon, 29 Aug 2011 20:48:42 -0400, Wayne B
wrote:

On Tue, 30 Aug 2011 07:21:19 +0700, Bruce
wrote:

On Mon, 29 Aug 2011 12:01:47 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

Toe Rail Recaulk

I'm at the stage in my chores that I'm digging out all the old caulking (3M
101 at the time - it's no longer available) to recaulk our toerail.

My fiberglass supplier, with a long history in the boatbuilding biz, is
recommending Bostic 940FS. Water cleanup and tooling, it looks easy to work
with, with a 20 minute skin time..

I'm having some serious questions as to the wisdom of using this material.
The 101 I'm taking out in some places is very resistant to removal (others
pull our fine with the V-shaped tool I'm using to get under the center and
catch the edges in one pass).

However, that's merely caulk, and not an adhesive. Knowing 5200's
reputation for later removal makes me think twice. I hope I don't, but
realistically I expect that at some point in the future, I'll be recaulking
the toe rail. Whether I'd be able to get this stuff out without treating it
(time, money, ?? impact on the paint/teak) is keeping my attention right
now.

Has anyone used this stuff (Bostic 940FS) to say how it behaves,
particularly in having to remove it?

Secondly, if you've had years of experience (how does it hold up?), if not
this, what do you use which is currently available (101's not)?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

The majority seem to be using either 3M 5200, or it's quick setting
brother, or one of the Sikaflex sealants/adhesives.

Bostic 940FS has a tensile strength of 255 psi @ non-stated
elongation, but over 100%

3M 5200 has a tensile strength of 700 psi with 1350% elongation before
break.

The Bostic cleans up with water, the 3M cleans up with 3M cleaner,
white spirits, diesel fuel, etc.

But a question. If you use 5200 why do you think that you would later
be recaulking?


================================================= ======

We've had good luck with 3M 4000 UV Marine Fast Cure Sealant on areas
that that are exposed to direct sunlight.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=2005

I've never used the 4000 but they seem to sell a lot. Except for
installing plastic windows, where I use Sekaflex 295UV along with the
appropriate primer, I've always used 5200. for mounting stuff and in
my experience it is reasonably easy to remove items installed using
it. On the other hand, if one installs, say a thru hull or a winch,
one usually does it with the idea that it shouldn't come adrift so
I've always view the argument that "Ooooh it is so hard to take it
off" with a certain amount of awe. Who wants a thru-hull to come off
easily :-)

By the by, I've used 5200 when mounting stainless hardware on aluminum
when I didn't have anything else. several years later I had occasion
to take the fittings off to repaint the spars and the screws came out
with a common screwdriver and there was no signs of corrosion
anywhere.

Cheers,

Bruce

On Mon, 29 Aug 2011 21:03:07 -0400, Wayne B
wrote:

On Mon, 29 Aug 2011 20:48:42 -0400, Wayne B
wrote:

We've had good luck with 3M 4000 UV Marine Fast Cure Sealant on areas
that that are exposed to direct sunlight.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=2005


PS, It cleans up very well with WD-40, spray it on, wipe it off.


I've used MEK, kerosene, white spirits; practically everything but
water and it all worked. On the other hand, soapy water works well to
smooth it without getting your fingers all sticky :-)


Cheers,

Bruce

On Tue, 30 Aug 2011 18:58:53 +0700, Bruce
wrote:

By the by, I've used 5200 when mounting stainless hardware on aluminum
when I didn't have anything else. several years later I had occasion
to take the fittings off to repaint the spars and the screws came out
with a common screwdriver and there was no signs of corrosion
anywhere.

====

Yes, it's good for preventing fastener corrosion but Skip's
application is different. Essentially he is trying to seal up an
external seam between the toe rail and the deck as I understand it.
That is a somewhat problematic application because it depends on
adhesion to exposed surfaces for effectiveness, and it gets full
exposure to sunlight. We've had good luck with the 3M 4000UV on our
front widshields which have a similar issue. Nothing is truly
permanent in that application but we've been getting 2 or 3 years on
average.

"Flying Pig" wrote in message
...
Toe Rail Recaulk


I have been waiting patiently to see if there were any real sailors here
and apparently there are NOT.

Real sailors would know "toerail" is one word. Duh!

You're welcome!


Wilbur Hubbard