On Mon, 26 Apr 2010 20:53:22 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 26 Apr 2010 04:06:27 -0700 (PDT), Ancona21
wrote:

I have recently acquired a 1985 Cherubini Raider 33 which is not
fitted for shore power. I need guidance on the best choice of shore
power inlet types to install.

I would also appreciate any information about the boat itself. It was
built in Florida in 1985 - original name was MUSIC which was later
changed to KOKOMO. It appears to be a tall rig model, but I have no
specs. Nor do I know the draft. Any info or referrals would be greatly
appreciated.


Sailboats in that size range will typically be fitted with a single 30
amp Marinco (or equivalent) inlet. If you want to have air
conditioning installed that would usually mandate an additional 30 amp
inlet. I'd recommend getting the installation done by a certified
marine electrician since shore power issues are a frequent cause of
boat fires.

http://www.marinco.com/files/media/p...rinco%2011.pdf


Wayne's advice is well meant, but from what I've seen so far of marine
services, I'd do it myself.



Wiring and pin named for various connections
http://www.frentzandsons.com/Hardwar...nfiguratio.htm

I'd be the first to agree that it can be done as a DIY project but
there are a couple of caveats. First, this is more involved than just
installing a shore power inlet. There will also need to be a panel,
hopefully with reverse polarity detection/prevention; circuit
breakers; and branch circuits, all installed in accordance with NMEA
standards. If not your insurance policy is not worth the paper it is
written on, and you could face major liabilities if your boat causes a
dock fire or electrocutes someone. Another issue is that most
amateur electrical work stands out like a sore thumb when a boat is
surveyed or resold.

Subject

Having spent a major piece of my career in the electrical business and
also wired a couple of boats, I'll offer the following:

FORGET about wiring a boat for 120VAC shore power, especially on an
older boat..

Instead, wire up a "Cheater, a 30A plug, a 15A receptacle, and 12"-15"
of 10-3 wire.

Add to that a 25 ft, 10-3 120V extension cord with a triple receptacle
outlet from a big box store.

When needed, plug in, run cord inside boat, plug in hot plate and make
breakfast.

When finished, coil up cord, unplug cheater and store in locker.

BTW, this also works for the electric hot water heater.

It's safer and less costly.

No need for expensive marine electrical items.

BTDT, would never do it again.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Subject

Having spent a major piece of my career in the electrical business and
also wired a couple of boats, I'll offer the following:

FORGET about wiring a boat for 120VAC shore power, especially on an
older boat..

Instead, wire up a "Cheater, a 30A plug, a 15A receptacle, and 12"-15"
of 10-3 wire.

Add to that a 25 ft, 10-3 120V extension cord with a triple receptacle
outlet from a big box store.

When needed, plug in, run cord inside boat, plug in hot plate and make
breakfast.

When finished, coil up cord, unplug cheater and store in locker.

BTW, this also works for the electric hot water heater.

It's safer and less costly.

No need for expensive marine electrical items.

BTDT, would never do it again.

Lew




That sounds kind of like the way I did my 18, Lew.
Only difference is that I hung it under the cockpit.

I put a Marinco connector (15 Amp) on a power strip (with breaker and GFA)
and called it done. Everything AC plugged into that.
And I never had a minutes problem with any of it.


http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/c18.htm
down at the bottom...


--

Richard Lamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/

Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 26 Apr 2010 20:53:22 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Wayne's advice is well meant, but from what I've seen so far of marine
services, I'd do it myself.

Wiring and pin named for various connections
http://www.frentzandsons.com/Hardwar...nfiguratio.htm

I'd be the first to agree that it can be done as a DIY project but
there are a couple of caveats. First, this is more involved than just
installing a shore power inlet. There will also need to be a panel,
hopefully with reverse polarity detection/prevention; circuit
breakers; and branch circuits, all installed in accordance with NMEA
standards. If not your insurance policy is not worth the paper it is
written on, and you could face major liabilities if your boat causes a
dock fire or electrocutes someone. Another issue is that most
amateur electrical work stands out like a sore thumb when a boat is
surveyed or resold.

Having just been through the ENTIRE electrical suystem of my boat,
I'd argue loudly that last sentence. (and you left of Ground fault).

The work done by - professionals - just plain sucked.

Bad crimps (by automotive type tools if I'm not mistaken),
no strain relief, no drip loops, no labels, no idea of what wire does what,
etc.

This was not the factory wiring (perfectly adequate), but work done
by a boat yard - after the fact.

It's my boat, and I want it done right. Damit!

Badly enough to research the standards,
buy the proper tools and parts (and wire!),
and do it - right.

I don't have a lot of detail on the web site yet - but -
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~capri...ds.htm#electro
and scroll down ways to "My New arrangement"...


I figer if I didn't do it right, Willie would (for sure) let me know!
And he would probably be right on this one...

Willie? What do I need to fix?



--

Richard Lamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/

"cavelamb" wrote in message
m...
Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 26 Apr 2010 20:53:22 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Wayne's advice is well meant, but from what I've seen so far of marine
services, I'd do it myself.

Wiring and pin named for various connections
http://www.frentzandsons.com/Hardwar...nfiguratio.htm

I'd be the first to agree that it can be done as a DIY project but
there are a couple of caveats. First, this is more involved than just
installing a shore power inlet. There will also need to be a panel,
hopefully with reverse polarity detection/prevention; circuit
breakers; and branch circuits, all installed in accordance with NMEA
standards. If not your insurance policy is not worth the paper it is
written on, and you could face major liabilities if your boat causes a
dock fire or electrocutes someone. Another issue is that most
amateur electrical work stands out like a sore thumb when a boat is
surveyed or resold.

Having just been through the ENTIRE electrical suystem of my boat,
I'd argue loudly that last sentence. (and you left of Ground fault).

The work done by - professionals - just plain sucked.

Bad crimps (by automotive type tools if I'm not mistaken),
no strain relief, no drip loops, no labels, no idea of what wire does
what,
etc.

This was not the factory wiring (perfectly adequate), but work done
by a boat yard - after the fact.

It's my boat, and I want it done right. Damit!

Badly enough to research the standards,
buy the proper tools and parts (and wire!),
and do it - right.

I don't have a lot of detail on the web site yet - but -
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~capri...ds.htm#electro
and scroll down ways to "My New arrangement"...


I figer if I didn't do it right, Willie would (for sure) let me know!
And he would probably be right on this one...

Willie? What do I need to fix?



--

Richard Lamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/

Great job Richard!