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Last Guests this year - Abacos, October 27-31, 2009
Last Guests this year - Abacos, October 27-31, 2009
We left you comfortably anchored off Russell Baldwin Rock, in the middle south of the Abacos chain, having just had a wonderful snorkeling experience, good food and good company. Following another restful night aboard, Tuesday October 27, we were off again, heading to Great Guana's Settlement Harbour, just a couple of miles up the road, in 12-17 knot SSE winds, a downwind run. By 2:30, we'd arrived, and despite another boat having anchored there, the great majority of the harbor was either too shallow for us or had moorings in the way, and, worse, about the only viable place on the chart for us to anchor was right where the other boat had thrown their hook. However, Dive Guana has many moorings in the area, and the guide books we had said they were only $10 a night, so we hailed them on the VHF. Oops, they can't promise clear water with our depth, but they had many more of suitable depth just up the island, in the next cove. We had to make a wide sweep to miss the rocks and reef between Settlement Harbour and Fishers Bay, but by 4PM we'd secured our (now $15) mooring. Having heard from many sources that one mustn't miss the experience of Nipper's, and having read in several of the promo pieces and guide books we had aboard that they had a "NipMobile" which would ferry us from our dock to them, we again picked up the VHF. Oops, while they DO have a NipMobile, they couldn't find their driver. So, we asked how to hoof it there, and whle we were getting ready, what should appear at the end of the street abutting the dock and launch ramp, but the NipMobile, which hailed us, and, as soon as we'd landed our dinghy, took us straightaway to the celebrated drinkery/eatery. Sure enough, the view was fantastic, and since we'd also been encouraged sufficiently, despite knowing that it would hit us in our wallet's solar plexus, we elected for dinner there. Oops - dinner menu's not available until 6, and it's only 5. Well, OK, we'll wander in the gift shop, and buy some playing cards, which, surprisingly, we hadn't had on board, and chat up the clerk. Then we'll have an appetizer and drinks while we wait. In the end, they pushed it up a bit, and we were served, let alone allowed to order, before 6 PM. True to the reports, it was expensive, but not particularly more than usual in the Bahamas, and dinner was delicious. The frozen "Nipper" was delicious, more, even than the Goombay Smash (which inventor's place we'd visited in Green Turtle Cay), too. However, just before dinner was served, we started experiencing no-see-ums, and moved from their deck to the inside dining room. We splurged with a Key Lime pie for dessert, and, stuffed, waddled out to find a ride home. Albury (the NipMobile driver) had disappeared again, but our clerk was just getting off, and volunteered a ride in her golf cart, which we accepted. Along the way, we chatted her up about the sea conditions expected; she said just give her a call, and she'd let us know. Promising to do so, we were shortly back home aboard, and piled into bed. Having gotten a view of the beach and the expected reef, on Wednesday, October 28th, we, as encouraged, called our driver from last night to inquire about the surf conditons - they looked ideal for snorkeling. So, we hailed the NipMobile in the late morning, and got a ride over for snorkeling and beachwalking. Michael and I went out in relatively calm seas, and flippered our way across a rocky shelf right in front of thebeach. From up high on the dunes at Nippers, it looked as though the reef was way offshore, a surprise to us as the guidebooks had made it sound like it was right off the beach. However, what we saw immediately on the way out looked totally gray, and mostly devoid of any life, let alone interesting fish, so we assumed that must just be a rock ledge, and continued on for a very long way. For probably at least 30 or 45 minutes, we swam, seeing nothing other than sandy bottom. The water was totally clear, though, so, after we concluded either that the reefs were very much further out than we were interested in swimmng to, or, instead, that rock shelf we went right over, I decided to see how deep it was. With Michael hovering off to the side, to judge from my body lengths, I hyperventilated and, wearing my almost-neutral-bouyancy weights, headed down. Getting down with the weights, especially as my lungs collapsed from the pressure (though I wasn't uncomfortable due to my pressurizing my ears on the way), further reducing me to negative bouyancy, was relatively quick. However, the swim out had tired me, and I didn't have my usual capacity, so the way up was a bit more exciting, having to overcome my weights and the lack of lung-volume bouyancy. In short order, my lungs were bursting, but I didn't dare let any out because I didn't want to give up any of the bouyancy, and I didn't really have a clear idea of how far I still had to go :{)) Had I known, I'd have gone down to my feet, rather than my hands, and pushed off from the bottom! In any event, of course, since you're reading this, in due time I surfaced and blew out my snorkel. Based on my body and flipper length multiples, Michael estimated 35-40 feet. While I was never truly anxious, it sure seemed shorter going down than UP! Well, even if there were reefs to explore further out, neither of us had air supplies, so rather than face having to deep dive for brief periods of time, even if we found the elusive reef, we headed in. Faced with our realities so far, we concluded that what we'd passed over was, indeed, the vaunted reefs of Nippers. So, we went exploring up and down the rock. Hm. Well, at least there are SOME fish here, and the occasional piece of coral. However, given our experience only yesterday, this was a huge disappointment. Still, it was interesting enough for us to spend perhaps another hour in the water, with many disappearances underneath for photo sessions with the wildlife we did find. By the time we made it back up the stairs to the bar and restaurant decks, we were the subject of much conversation in a group of tourists who'd hired a guide to go snorkeling. They wanted to know how we "could possibly do it." Do What? "Dive so much and stay down so long??" We passed it off as nothing, to their amazement. However, on the way out, we got to chatting up a guy who was waiting for his wife. He doesn't even yet know how to use a snorkel, and the wife was pretty new at it. Despite the very calm conditions, as well, they'd felt it too rough to go out, and so hadn't even ventured into the water. So, to them, we supposed, we must have looked superhuman. Finding a ride home proved that Albury had again gone missing, and our hostess of the prior evening, of course, was still in the shop, so we walked, somewhat self-consciously, in our bathing suits, the 3/4 mile or so back to the boat. Bahamians are very proper folks, and appearance in general public in bathing attire is frowned upon, so we were pleased that we encountered very few people along the way. By 5:15, we were off our mooring and headed to the south end of the island where we expected, from the guidebooks and charts, to find another great snorkeling spot surrounding a tiny rock above Scotland Cay. In short order, we had the hook down in a very nice anchorage. Michael and I headed out to the little rock nearby, to check it out. The best we could tell, there was nothing but grass in our circumavigation of the rock, but on the East side, we spied a little camp with a pirate flag on a pole. On the West side, there was a tiny beach leading up to it, so we got out to explore. Someone had made a lovely path, lining it with empty conch shells, and we marveled at the effort needed to get the full-sized picnic table in there, along with what we've come to expect of the other associated gear such as a portable barbeque and some chairs. Back to the boat we go, disappointed, delivering the bad news to the ladies. We figured that the chart must have thought that eternally calm water (extremely well protected from all sides in there) would mean that those such as the folks we met at Nippers would enjoy paddling around in the very shallow, very clear water. Thursday, October 29th dawned, and we were shortly joined by a boat from a nearby home who told us of many submerged cars just off another dock, making a great artificial reef. He also invited us to his home for showers, if we'd like, and after we'd thanked him profusely for the information and the invite, he headed off for home while we prepared to up-anchor and head on down to the actual Fowl Cay reefs. By 9:45, in very light winds, we were off, and had the hook out in another nice anchorage by 10:15. WOW!!! It took some motoring around, initially, in the dinghy, looking for reefs under us. We were initially concerned that there wasn't going to be anythng we could see or anchor nearby to, but then we noticed, much further out, and inside the surf line (wouldn't want to try to snorkel THAT in these conditions, but, likely, that, too, was a big reef) what looked like people fishing, not moving. Wait!! Those are mooring balls. Let's go have a look. Sure enough, these were all balls for the many reefs out there. As stunning as the reefs off the Rock just south of there were, these were simply amazing. Better yet, having mooring balls and frequent visitors, these fish were more interested in our rice offerings, and we were surrounded by all imaginable fish. Included were an entire school of dark blue fish, some barracuda, many tiny but very colorful fish, and enormous variety of corals - brain, tower, fan, mushroom, you name it. If it weren't for the fact that we'd eventually gotten chilled, we could have spent the entire day there. Much imbedded video in the underwater camera, along with copious photos, of us underwater, some including reflecting views of the surface overhead, and all the flora and fauna of the single reef we were mooring-balled near, ensued. We'll definitely return and explore some of the other reefs marked by the many other moorings, as it's definitely worth the chill. Likely, next time, we'll wear our wetsuits so we can stay longer! However, there were another couple of things we wanted to show our guests, so by 1:45 we were under way again, this time to nearby Hopetown, for the marvelous architecture, the lighthouse, and the grocery store. We again anchored off, this time a bit closer, though, due to the settled weather, and dinghied into town. We headed first to the dock across from the grocery, as it's closer if we turned out to be laden, and, as we were docking, encountered yet another Albury, this time the owner of the fish market, who was just returning from a fishing trip with his already-cleaned catch. We bought nearly 4 pounds of Wahoo from him and stashed it in our dinghy before we went ashore. As we'd been here already, we sort of acted as tour guides, and did the town tour. Between this and our last time, several trees had flowered, so that, and some of the local wildlife, served as photo subjects for Fish, a microbiologist. We stopped into the grocery, intending to buy our loaf of bread and some eggs. However, unlike Marsh Harbour, the eggs were exhorbitant, being only Eggland's Best or Certified Organic, so we settled for a single dozen. Happily, however, they'd replenished the lemon juice, the staple in Lydia's lemonade, and we bought 15 more bottles. This time, the clerk was even more generous than the previous one, trying initially to give us a case (12) price, but the machine wouldn't compute it. So, instead, he gave us 18% on all of them. We also got several other items, and Michael and I splurged on an ice cream bar, each. Fully loaded, but only a few feet from the dock, we loaded up the dinghy and set out for the lighthouse. While I was mostly interested in the "works" in my visit, Michael and Fish have a much more photographic eye, and brought back several very interesting pictures of the interior, including some looking down on the entirety of the spiral staircase leading to the top. Thus sated, we again fired up the dinghy and returned to our home for a delicious, marinated, grilled, Wahoo dinner. Friday, October 30 we sailed off our anchor at noon, bidding a fond farewell to the little islands we'd visited. The wind was ideal, providing an initial beam reach in benign seas with moderate speed. We made our turn at Point Set, moving to a downwind, wing-and-wing configuration at 1PM, and, as the wind shifted, conveniently, turned, again, downwind on our final leg into the channel for Marsh Harbour. Having seen the satellite views of where we were before (through the SPOT locator program pages), and having yet another look at all the charts and guidebooks and chartplotter and computer's nav programs, we decided that we could indeed anchor closer in than we'd been before. Calculating the tides and the related depths, we set the hook in about 8' of low-tide water at 2:15, directly opposite the Union Jack public docks. Following another delicious Wahoo dinner, we set in for a game of Hearts, with our guests soundly trouncing us, before finally retiring for the evening. Saturday, Halloween Day, before we had to deliver Michael and Fish to the dock for Fabian, Taxi 129, to give them a ride to the airport, we had a debriefing on what had gone well, what could have been better, and how to make future guests and us happiest about the experiences when it was over. Generally speaking, this was a wonderful visit, but there were some things we were able to learn from their perspectives, along with some of our our expectations which we may not have adequately exposed, which will go into a future "FAQ (frequently asked questions) for Potential Flying Pig Visitors." In the end, both of us are looking forward to the next time, most likely in another exotic location. Having delivered them to the dock, we repaired to Flying Pig for some downtime before returning to shore for yet more provisioning and some leg stretching. We met many children who were clearly keyed up with anticipation for their trick-or-treating later this evening, a delight to see, as they told us of their costumes and where they were going. Having restocked the critical items, chiefly eggs, as it's a staple in the diet which has peeled a combined more-than 50 pounds off Lydia and me in the last several months, we returned to our home, alone for the first time in a while. As this is the last visitors we expect in the foreseeable (meaning that we can put any dates to) future, we set about for some serious, unstructured, relaxation. Of course, there's always the odd boat chores, and still lots to see and do in the Abacos, but for now, we're just chillin' - so, likely, it will be some time before the next log. Until then, Stay Tuned :{)) L8R Skip and Lydia, comfortably at anchor and doing nothing in particular for the next while... Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery ! Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog "You are never given a wish without also being given the power to make it come true. You may have to work for it however." (and) "There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in its hand (Richard Bach) |
#2
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Last Guests this year - Abacos, October 27-31, 2009
On Sat, 14 Nov 2009 13:18:50 -0500, "Flying Pig"
wrote: However, there were another couple of things we wanted to show our guests, so by 1:45 we were under way again, this time to nearby Hopetown, for the marvelous architecture, the lighthouse, and the grocery store. One of the things we've enjoyed several times is renting a golf cart in Hope Town and driving around Elbow Cay. There are many picturesque spots which are difficult to get to any other way except possibly by bicycle (long ride on a boat bike). http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/8590/bigsurfatelbowcayua3.jpg There are other "down island" attractions also: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Hope+Town,+ba hamas&sll=38.173668,-95.916166&sspn=37.617046,65.830078&ie=UTF8&hq=&hne ar=Hope+Town,+The+Bahamas&ll=26.519774,-76.96794&spn=0.00527,0.008036&z=17 or http://tinyurl.com/yjwbcna |
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