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Here, Fishy Fishy, or, Michael and Fish aboard 10/23-26/09
Here, Fishy Fishy, or, Michael and Fish aboard 10/23-26/09 We left you comfortably, if noisily, at anchor, very close to where we were yesterday, off Lynyard Cay, across from Little Harbour. After a comfortable night's sleep, Friday morning October 23, we decided to go visit some other beaches in the area. Accordingly, we moved quite south of our prior anchorage, into another very sheltered location, where there were more beaches to explore. We had the anchor up by 11:30 and in position, but our first choice/attempt we thought too wet due to surf splash, so we moved further south yet. We had our anchor secure by noon, across from a couple of lovely beaches. One of them had several boats there, with a portable pavilion set up, so we didn't go to that area. However, there was another with what looked like it might have also been a gathering place, but nobody there, so we ventured the short distance from Flying Pig to shore in our dinghy. It turned out that this was a popular cruisers' "bulletin board" - many different forms of flotsam with boat names and dates on them, hung or nailed to the trees, and marking a path to the other side. We took the path after examining the various boat names and dates, some of which had multiple years on them, and very shortly we were on the ocean side. WOW! Huge expanses of sand beach running as far as the eye could see in both directions, and the way down from the dunes was helped by someone having mounted steps, made from driftwood lumber, all the way to the beach. The amount and variety of stuff which had been tossed up on shore was stunning. Part of a stern of a boat lay on shore, many fiberglass boat parts/segments as well, much lumber of all descriptions, the usual plastic garbage of all sorts, particularly water and soft drink bottles and a HUGE steel "something" - perhaps a loading ramp, perhaps a door, maybe a rudder?? - lay just under the high tide waves. It must have been 10'x30'x2' from our perspective not far away, and we could only marvel at the forces needed to push it onto the beach where it lay. Lydia went looking for more of the precious hamburger beans which make such lovely jewelry, I went scroungng for useful stuff, and Michael and Fish went the other way, just walking. In particular, I was searching, among the many water and fuel jugs which had been cast on shore, for a spare cap and seal, in the event one of our jerry cans should come up missing one somewhere along the way. I learned, the hard way, that jug manufacturers - or, at least, Igloo, anyway - won't sell you replacement caps and/or spouts/seals. They want you to buy another jug. No luck on any of that; all that had one were broken. Lydia didn't find any hamburger beans but found several interesting shells. However, there was what looked to be a virtually new yellow diesel jug (sans cap and spout, of course), so I used that to mark our visit to the area. A quickie ride to the boat got me a wide sharpie, and we inscribed our names, boat name and date on the jug and hung it with the short piece of line I brought with me from the boat, joining all the other cruisers' mementos at the entrance to the path to the beach. Ever hopeful, we snorkeled the area in front of the little beach landing next to the path entry, but found nothing other than some interesting shells. We left after marveling at the totally deserted, but hugely debris-strewn beach we'd enjoyed, and returned to our home for dinner and a simulated Boggle game. The wind during Michael and Fish' visit has been unrelentingly strong for any of the snorkeling we'd prefer to do, over any reefs, but on Saturday morning, October 24th, it shifted and moderated to S-SSE at 10-15 knots. Hopeful, we had the anchor up by 11 AM and had a lovely, if short sail up to Sandy Cay, reputedly fantastic for turtles and other reef life. The area has many bouys for dinghies to tie up to, so we were hopeful of being able to enjoy some of it with the moderated wind conditions. Sailing around the top and into what passed for somewhat of a lee on the other side of Sandy Cay, we had the anchor set by 12:15. We motored in the dinghy around to the east side, but found that the water was entirely too rough for comfortable snorkeling, regardless of water clarity, which wasn't the best, either, so reluctantly headed back to the west side. There we went to the sandy portion at the south end, not really a beach, but at least enough to land the dinghy among the submerged rocks, and went exploring. There's a sandy spit which is exposed at dead low water, connecting Sandy to the next island south. As well, there were interesting tidal pools among the rocks on the east side. We were also able to snorkel out toward Flying Pig, and were pleased to see a large manta ray exploring inshore. Ashore, we found many good shells, as well. Back at the boat, we'd seen that it was rolling somewhat alarmingly, but weren't concerned, in general, as we secure everything aboard each day. However, for the cruisers reading this, one item with which we were particularly well pleased was our WalMart plastic dish rack and tray. It stayed put despite all the rolling. We'd gone to some lengths in Georgetown last winter to obtain a similar unit, replacing our in-sink stainless steel one which was terminally rusty, but this one was larger and had better a tableware holder, so we swapped it out for only about 6 bux, in contrast to the smaller one at $12 in Georgetown. Just another example as shown in our under-development "Frequently Asked Questions for Visitors to Flying Pig" of how much more stuff costs off the mainland USA... Ever on the move to try to find good snorkeling opportunities, and mindful of how early and precipitous sunset was in these parts, we had the anchor up by 4PM, heading for the south end of Tilloo. This, you'll recall, was the same island we left hurriedly, following my extraction of the fouled sheet from the prop, so this time we weren't going to go to the tip. Instead, following a lovely, if short, sail up, we maneuvered in the tight channels to go around the sand bar to the recommended-by-the-power-boater anchorage north of the huge sand bar, near the harbor. With the wind coming over the sand bar, and the steep dropoff in depth next to shore, we could get in close to shore, and have no effective fetch (the waves can get bigger from traveling a long distance [fetch] before they get to you) on the waves which, south of there, would have made for an uncomfortable anchorage (recall that we were very strongly encouraged to leave there only a couple of days ago), instead would dissapate over the sand bar. We had the anchor down by 5:30, and enjoyed sundowners (cokes!) soon after. Curiously, we've yet to hear the first conch horn at sunset here - likely, that's just a gathering-of-cruisers thing, not seen until you get a few of them together. We're very happy that we've been virtually alone out here so far, as it means we have our choice of anchoring spots and solitary entertainment. This was like all the others so far, with our boat being alone on the hook, and, sure enough to my prediction, we were very calm at anchor despite the relatively high winds. We spent the next day, Sunday October 25th, just snorkeling and enjoying the environment of the area. We were hopeful that a large expanse of sand bar might provide some conching opportunities, but aside from a single adolescent, we saw none. I did, however, get to show Michael how to track it (conch are usually a bit difficult to spot, having marine growth on them making them appear the same as the bottom in most places, but seeing their trail leads right to them), as well as a sea biscuit which, at the end of its track, had thoroughly buried itself. By this time, the wind was dying, and the opportunities for a comfortable snorkeling run were superb, enhanced by the wamer water in the very shallow area (under 6 feet). This sand bar, while having lots of grassy spots, was a good place for shelling, and I found a pristine version of a sea biscuit, very extended, which Fish will have to remind me about for the proper name, but it was more the shape of a rugby football than the typical round ones we'd found so far. Sand dollars and other interesting shells abounded, so Fish will have a challenge in selection of what to take, there being far more accumulated on our stern than she can easily transport! Monday, October 26th, we sailed off our anchor at 9:45, heading to Great Guana Cay, anxious to try out the vaunted reefs off Nippers, the celebrated beach bar and restaurant. The wind was still relatively calm, and in a direction which was promising for snorkeling, so we went in a wing-and-wing, with the genoa poled out in 6-8 knots apparent wind, making all of 3.8 to 4 knots over ground. The wind shifted along the way, so we jibed the main at 1:30, going on what was now a beam reach. Because the winds were so light, we left the genoa poled out to keep it from collapsing. As the winds again shifted in the light-and-variable conditions we were experiencing, we released the genoa from the pole, and tacked to the beam reach on the opposite side. By 2PM, the wind had died enough that we were encouraged about potential reef snorkeling, so diverted to Fowl Cay with an ETA of 3 PM. Sure enough, after wandering around, looking at our depth sounder (recall that our first night, we'd been too close to the sand bar and had bumped a couple of times at low tide), we had the hook down at 3PM off the little cay with a hut on it, Russel Baldwin Rock, and were soon off to find the reefs Lydia and I had discovered on our first trip here. We'd been there at low tide but now was high tide, and finding a secure anchoring point for our dinghy on its relatively short anchor line proved a bit challenging. However, that was soon resolved, and we headed out to see what was there this time. True to our previous experience, this was enchanting and we got up-close-and-personal video and photos with the underwater camera Michael and Fish had obtained for us before they arrived. Compared with the previous underwater views they'd been experiencing, this was stunning. Curiously, the reef fish here didn't seem very interested in the rice we'd brought along (we take Gatorade bottles, melt a hole in the lid, put cooked rice in, and, with a squeeze on the bottle, dispense a few rice grains each time). Those following us know from our time in Cambridge Cay that we'd experienced fish all around us in both Thunderball Grotto and the national seaquarium, but the fish there largely ignored them. Nonetheless, there were still ample opportunities for sightseeing and photos. I also saw, but wasn't able to keep up with underwater, a barracuda who was being followed by several smaller fish both under and on top of him. Perhaps they're scavengers? They didn't seem at all concerned about, nor did they elicit any apparent interest from, the barracuda. Lydia, Fish and I retired to the dinghy, having gotten a bit chilled, but Michael, wearing a long-sleeved shirt, was still comfortable, so he went and played with all the wildlife for probably another hour before we headed back to Flying Pig. Following our showers, we enjoyed our dinner and dessert treat of oreos. As this is getting long, again, we'll leave you here, thrilled with our snorkeling, full of good food and cheer, comfortably at anchor. Until next time, Stay Tuned! L8R Skip Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery ! Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog "You are never given a wish without also being given the power to make it come true. You may have to work for it however." (and) "There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in its hand (Richard Bach) -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery ! Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog "You are never given a wish without also being given the power to make it come true. You may have to work for it however." (and) "There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in its hand (Richard Bach) |
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