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A letter from Peter
A recent post from Peter: Bon Jour, I am currently at Fakarava atoll in the Tuamotus. (16,03.564S; 145,37.261W) The wind getting here from Hiva Oa in the Marquesas was fickle, coming from all points of the compass, even west, and was usually less than 12 knots but at times had great sails with the wind on or forward of the beam. The pass into the lagoon was wide enough to turn around in and was marked by a green, keep to starboard lit pole. We are now back in the civilised world where one keeps the green buoy (pronounced "Boy" and not "boo-ee") on one's right when entering a harbour instead of the opposite which the Americans use. From the pass to the anchorage off the village was 5.8 miles. This lagoon is huge and is roughly rectangular being 30 miles in length by 12 miles wide. The village and airstrip are in the top north east corner. Before entering I had talked on VHF to another boat, "Lauren Grace" who I had often only heard since Panama on the Net but had never met and who had arrived a couple of days before. The husband (retired policeman), wife (lawyer) and 24 year old daughter Lauren (recent music degree graduate) are from Orlando Florida. I came alongside at their suggestion and obtained anchoring advice before dropping the hook between them and the "Keep North of" pole marking an isolated reef. A little later, Sharlene (has to be from the good 'ole south) the wife came across with a fresh baguette and a friendly welcome. Really nice people. They informed me that today was market day with fresh vegetables as the supply ship came in yesterday afternoon and they would take me ashore. They were going to the pearl farm later and asked if I wanted to accompany them. Nice people. The pearl farm which is owned by a German architect with a Tahitian wife was an interesting visit but I have seen pearl farms before. I spent some time with him in talking about his life and how he ended up here which was far more of interest to me. In his landcruiser that he picked us up from the wharf in were another two couples, also American, who I got to know during the day. The woman on one who is returning to Seattle from Tahiti, had crewed on another boat I met before in Hiva Oa. We had lunch at a nice waterfront cafe/bar and somehow all chose the fishburgers though there was plenty of other menu items to choose from. The fish was fresh grilled mahimahi - delicious, reasonably priced and came with a side salad and fries or 'frit'. We walked back to the wharf and went for an impromptu swim along the way. Nobody seemed to mind my Rio scants beneath my shorts - they were less brief than the women's bikinis- and the water was divine, being clear and with a hint of light blue; the coral sand was very finely ground and the sea was flat, ideal for floating and talking and getting to know my fellow cruisers. A young woman from Paris has established a vegetable stall nearby and also makes and sells delicious small pear and egg custard pies as well as large slices of a delicious and very beautiful layered sliced apple tart which constituted my early evening meal together with a single large omega plum. All in all, it was a friendly and nice way to spend a day of relaxation. I have biked with my Dahon folder around a bit as most of the roads are concrete and wide. Yesterday I biked with another family from Seattle past the airport to the entrance to the lagoon 10 kilometres (6.25 miles) either way including 6 kilometres of gravel road. We were amazed at how easily the 20 inch bike could keep up with their mountain bikes. Great gears. I had been on their boat the night before with another cruiser as they played guitar and the Celtic harp - much like a normal harp but only 4' 6" high. The water is picture postcard beautifully clear and light blue. The people speak a language fairly close to New Zealand Maori so I am able to communicate with them better than I can in French. I met some nice young 'guys' yesterday while biking. They were drinking and smoking locally (first class heads) grown pot by the side of the road. They offered the old man some of both and when I explained that I don't drink they apologised profusely and found a can of Coca-Cola in their ice box. I guess it was the Maori because they were almost rude when I first stopped. I hope to leave here when the winds are anticipated for the 2 day sail to Tahiti. Diesel is over $5 per gallon. Baguettes are delicious as are the crepes (ham, rocquefort (blue) cheese and walnut filling). Ciao Peter When I answer I shall ask him what he is going to do when he gets back to Australia? What do you do after you've seen the world..... Cheers, Bruce in Bangkok (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) |
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