Hi, Ian, and list,

Thanks for the erudition! There's a couple of questions you raise, however,
inline:


"IanM" wrote in message
...

(clip self-layup section; see future post)

However, I'm not convinced that this is a valid repair method. Epoxy is
NOT strong at elevated temperatures and I would be inclined to do the
repair in polyester resin *IF* I could get the muffler clean enough.
I'd lay up the first few layers resin rich with as much glass microbubble
additive as I could use to attempt to provide thermal insulation for the
outer layers then switch to normal laminating, keeping the resin ratio as
low as possible without compromising the layup. It wants to be about 50%
thicker than 'factory' if the restriction is managable as the original was
made under ideal conditions and was probably significantly stronger.

In this, I presume you're speaking of self-layup, not the insertion of the
replacement tube to the muffler? There's not enough left to tell what the
orginal factory thickness was, but the part right next to the "can" feels
like it can't be more than 1/16" thick. What I'm finding is all 1/8" wall,
but if I were concerned, I could spring for the bigger bux, much too long a
piece, in 1/4" wall. So, I'm presuming I'll have a much stronger pipe in
the repair than the original.


I would *expect* bonding problems at the joint so it may be better to make
a flange and bed the replacement spigot on sealent with a ring of self
tappers retaining it. If one is going down that road, and you can get it
made up easily you might as well go stainless.

By "made up" - to what are you referring? Getting a flange with a radius to
match the muffler body? I'm reluctant to be making additional compromises
to the body (4-6 holes in a fiberglass shell prolly wouldn't enhance its
strength, and there's vibration transmitted from the very short hose to the
engine to think about) that attaching a flange would involve, though the SS
pipe certainly would remove dissolution issues, I'd think...


I presume that you are cruising somewhere undeveloped and can't wait for

Heh. Wilbur can tell you from looking at my SPOT track that I cruised the
interstate highway system for a bit but am back in Saint Simons Island, GA
while I wait for Lydia to tire of the television and other stuff after she
plays Gramma with her (thanks for the thoughts, he's doing fabulously)
grandson who's just had open heart surgery. So, I'm back in friendly
territory for parts, of which I'll need others than just this.

a replacement muffler as fixing it anywhere you can get one within 3 days
is a waste of time and money. You'll probably want to change it next
winter anyway.

Winter is subjective to us, as we have no interest in being somewhere the
daytime temps are under 70 for more than a few days at a time. As,
presuming I find a source (I have a couple; see coming post) for FG pipe, my
repair will involve less than an hour, likely, and a replacement muffler is
some number larger than 1 boatbuck, why would I do that, other things being
equal? (asking, not confronting - the amount isn't backbreaking, so if
there's good enough reason, I would)

*FIX* the cooling water supply problem that let the exhaust eat the
spigot! (If it hasn't got a water supply problem now, it had one in the
past)

This one is curious to me; in another forum, someone said something about
theirs having gone "porous," or something to that effect, also, making me
wonder if it was a polyester resin issue (like blisters). The cooling water
is, of course, whatever we're in at the time, and the engine runs at
180*-200* all the time once it's warmed up.

So, to your comment, what might make that happen; that is, what sort of
cooling water supply problem might there be?


--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)

Thanks again for your info.

L8R

Skip, sans crew

--
Morgan 461 #2
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