Weather still not good enough here (high winds and deep draft plus
shallow water equals bad boo)
It's beginning to loo like ASAin here...

"katy" wrote in message
om...
Weather still not good enough here (high winds and deep draft plus shallow
water equals bad boo)
It's beginning to loo like ASAin here...


I'm going on Tuesday. Short trip.. marina to the yard.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

On Feb 23, 2:26*am, katy wrote:
Weather still not good enough here (high winds and deep draft plus
shallow water equals bad boo)
It's beginning to loo like ASAin here...

The wind has been howling here all day, I so wanted to have a good
eekend so I could go!

Here's someting on topic:

http://www.cnn.com/2009/WORLD/europe...cue/index.html

My rudder quadrant is pretty massive. In addition to an emergency tiller,
the wind vane control lines attach to the quadrant so I can steer with the
vane gear or by pulling on the lines. My concern is the stock breaking off
of the steel plate inside the rudder at the weld and starting to just spin
inside the rudder. Like most, mine fills with water and drains all winter.

I'm thinking of adapting an idea from the old sailing ships an attaching a
stout ring through bolted with straps to the rear upper corner of the
rudder. This is just above the waterline on my boat. I can either run a line
to this while standing on the boarding ladder or keep a light line rigged as
shown he

http://www.rogerlongboats.com/images/Esteerline.jpg

Lines taken either side to blocks on the toe rail holes and then to the
winches should give me some control at the cost of some topside chafing.

I also have a very bunk bin board over my holding tank that is nearly as
large as my rudder. I plan to obtain a suitable piece of pipe and pre-drill
it for a tiller and to attach the pre-drilled bunk board to. This can be
lashed to the wind vane tower. The ring on the rudder idea is simple though
and applicable to many boats. If I can't find a suitable storage place for
the stock long enough for plan A, I may just go with it alone.

If Cecil isn't too busy packing, he should be along soon to point out that
only boats with outboard rudders that are painted yellow can be considered
seaworthy. However, I bought this boat and got stuck with it before
discovering this group and having the benifit of his wisdom and experience
so I'll just have to make do.

--
Roger Long

Roger Long wrote:
....

If Cecil isn't too busy packing, he should be along soon to point out that
only boats with outboard rudders that are painted yellow can be considered
seaworthy.

In my dinghy/daysailing days I thought a balanced spade rudder was the
be all/end all of rudders. Now I appreciate my skeg hung rudders as a
number of my sister ships with spade rudders have bent their posts on
"uncharted obstructions."

Catamarans of course have an issue since the keels are usually only
slightly deeper than the rudders, so strikes are common. Fortunately,
there are two large rudders so if one is jammed, they can be decoupled
and steered independently. Our forum has a number of threads on the
straightening of posts, and several boats actually carry spare rudders!

Since mine was fitted with diesels (most of the sister ships had
outboards) the rudders are skeg mounted so the skeg can support the
extra weight when beached. Although it makes for a bit more effort and
less maneuverability, I can go through skinny water with more confidence.

On Mon, 23 Feb 2009 07:13:09 -0500, "Roger Long"
wrote:

I'm thinking of adapting an idea from the old sailing ships an attaching a
stout ring through bolted with straps to the rear upper corner of the
rudder. This is just above the waterline on my boat. I can either run a line
to this while standing on the boarding ladder or keep a light line rigged as
shown he

http://www.rogerlongboats.com/images/Esteerline.jpg

Losing the rudder is mostly a concern on long offshore passages. It
does happen. A friend of mine with a 50 something Irwin ketch once
had to be towed 200 miles into Norfolk, VA by the coast guard after
losing the rudder in a way similar to what you describe. I don't see
any reason why your scheme with control lines wouldn't work, and top
side chafing is the least of your concerns at that point. All boats
in the Newport-Bermuda race have to demonstrate a workable emergency
rudder arrangement. Most opt for some combination of spinnaker pole
with a door lashed to it. The pole gets loosely lashed to a
stanchion at the rear of the boat and some lucky individual gets to
manhandle the free end like a giant tiller.

On Mon, 23 Feb 2009 08:04:59 -0500, jeff wrote:

Catamarans of course have an issue since the keels are usually only
slightly deeper than the rudders, so strikes are common.

That can happen of course, but most monohull steering failures are
caused by structural issues internal to the rudder or in the cables,
blocks or quadrant.

On Mon, 23 Feb 2009 07:13:09 -0500, "Roger Long"
wrote:

If Cecil isn't too busy packing, he should be along soon to point out that
only boats with outboard rudders that are painted yellow can be considered
seaworthy

Do you think if I painted the [outboard] rudders on my sister's scow
yellow it would become seaworthy?

Casady

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 Feb 2009 08:04:59 -0500, jeff wrote:

Catamarans of course have an issue since the keels are usually only
slightly deeper than the rudders, so strikes are common.

That can happen of course, but most monohull steering failures are
caused by structural issues internal to the rudder or in the cables,
blocks or quadrant.


I believe that to be the case, also. However, just prior to my buying my
1963 Rawson 30, as it was being taken down the SoCal coast to Newport
Harbor, the rudder post broke inside the rudder requiring a complete
rudder/post rebuild. The boat had been in salt water for nearly 40 years at
that time. The craftsman at Orange Coast College of Sailing and Seamanship
did a magnificent job creating a new rudder for her.