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Wayne.B wrote in
news ![]() On Wed, 23 Jun 2004 08:50:10 -0400, "Doug Dotson" wrote: You can go up to a 160 amp alternator without having to resort to a large frame dual belt model. ======================================== Doug, can you cite some references on that? I've never heard of anyone recommending 100+ amps without dual belts. I used to run a 120 amp Balmar on one of my old sailboats with a single belt. Frankly it left a lot to be desired even at 50 to 60 amps - lots of squealing and chewed up belts. It would never get even remotely close to 100 amps, even for short periods. The belt slip was just too much for it. Lionheart's big alternator has only one belt on the alternator's crooked pulley. It only draws 100+ amps for a few minutes, so if you keep the belt tight it's fine. Why does everyone think a 200A alternator is going to charge house batteries at full current for 20 minutes and end up with a fully-charged set of house batteries? That's CRAZY! The amount of current it will draw has NOTHING to do with the peak current an alternator puts out. The alternator puts out its rated output until the battery voltage rises somewhere near the regulator's set voltage, then the current drops DRASTICALLY to a more sane level to safely charge the plates. A surface charge quickly raises the voltage, then the real charging begins SLOWLY creating the chemical reaction, we hope, that recovers most of the lead sulphate in solution back to lead plates before it crystalizes and falls into the bilge of the battery. Your boat can no more fully charge your boat battery at really high currents than your local garage can fully charge your car battery in 20 minutes. It's just a SURFACE charge! To fully charge the house batteries takes HOURS of SLOW charging to re-plate the lead which takes TIME!! Sorry...... Larry The funniest thing at any marina is a boater with a new 4KW inverter carrying his electric heater down the dock with a big smile on his face. |
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