Never use solid core wire on anything that moves, vibrates, or flexes- Cars,
boats, elevators, trains, etc. Solid wire is for buildings, signs, etc, that
never move. Movement will eventually break the wire (or just cause it to
weaken, creating a point of resistance that will be a fire hazard)


"Ytter" wrote in message
...
I've heard different opinions what kind of wire is better for wiring
boats.Could you give me some of your expertise?
Thank You,
Ytter

engsol wrote:

On Wed, 26 May 2004 18:21:36 -0700, "Ytter" wrote:

I've heard different opinions what kind of wire is better for wiring
boats.Could you give me some of your expertise?
Thank You,
Ytter

I'd use stranded. The only application of solid wire I recall was in
telephone central offices, and telephone jack wiring in houses.
As others pointed out, it doesn't take much flexing to work-harden
solid wire and crack. But even stranded needs strain-reliefs
and clamps.
Norm B

Solid wire like Romex is used where you can attach it to some fixed
surface - like a building especially inside of walls. In that
application (i.e. stapled or attached to the building) stranded wire
will not work because the strands will work against the attachment and
eventually the strands will break and cause a short. Stranded wire
isn't allowed inside of walls IIRC, nor can you tie or restrict the
movement of a stranded wire.

Tinned wire is just something to keep the exposed ends from corroding.
We've used welding cable to wire up batteries in an electric car and
it works fine. It may not have as long a life as tinned wire but it
depends on how long you want it to last and whether the cost is worth
it to you. I understand that Home Depot in Tampa carries tinned wire,
but I've never seen it anywhere else.

The main thing is to use a large enough gauge wire for your
application.



grandma Rosalie

HULL FLEXING! WAVE INDUCED VIBRATION! POUNDING! DOCKING! STICK WITH TINNED
MULTISTRAND MARINE WIRE! CAN YOU HEAR ME NOW? ;-)

--


Keith
__
The original point and click interface was a Smith and Wesson.
"Ytter" wrote in message
...
WHAT KIND OF VIBRATIONS YOU HAVE ON THE SAILBOAT EXCEPT ENGINE AREA ?

On Wed, 26 May 2004 18:21:36 -0700, "Ytter"
wrote (with possible editing):

I've heard different opinions what kind of wire is better for wiring
boats.Could you give me some of your expertise?
Thank You,
Ytter


I'll agree with everyone else - tinned, stranded wire is the best
wire to use. In addition, if the boat is fiberglass, you should use
"wire loom" for conductors which can rub against the hull or any other
unfinished fiberglass surface. The reason is that unfinished
fiberglass is quite abrasive. You can buy wire loom at auto parts
stores - it's like a flexible plastic pipe slit up the side. It
provides a smooth interior which will not abrade the insulation.
--

Larry
Email to rapp at lmr dot com

"Boats are wired with tinned stranded wire based on some solid engineering."
Sounds like a Bush press release none answer.
This guy has a legitimate question in spirit with the newsgroup.

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
link.net...
Subject

If you have to ask that question, don't even consider the job.

Boats are wired with tinned stranded wire based on some solid engineering.


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the
Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

When boat manufacturers install 110v wiring in a boat at
the factory for the "house" 110v circuits (like lights, plugs,
A/C, tv, etc..) what do they use?

do they use 110v 12 gauge solid core "romex" like they do
for home installations for do they acutally use stranded wire
in conduit? I just can't see all the boat manufactureres going
to this expense.

anyone?

"Stanley Barthfarkle" wrote in message om...
Never use solid core wire on anything that moves, vibrates, or flexes- Cars,
boats, elevators, trains, etc. Solid wire is for buildings, signs, etc, that
never move. Movement will eventually break the wire (or just cause it to
weaken, creating a point of resistance that will be a fire hazard)


"Ytter" wrote in message
...
I've heard different opinions what kind of wire is better for wiring
boats.Could you give me some of your expertise?
Thank You,
Ytter

"Stanley Barthfarkle" wrote in message om...
Never use solid core wire on anything that moves, vibrates, or flexes- Cars,
boats, elevators, trains, etc. Solid wire is for buildings, signs, etc, that
never move. Movement will eventually break the wire (or just cause it to
weaken, creating a point of resistance that will be a fire hazard)

Not to mention that stranded wire allows for more, in laymens terms,
flow of energy, less resistance in stranded wire... has to do with
surface area, but that is another story. Anyway, I almost agree with
the guy that said "if you have to ask,...", except I will say, if you
have to ask, you have a lot more reading to do Hopefully, your
origional question has been answered here.
Scotty



"Ytter" wrote in message
...
I've heard different opinions what kind of wire is better for wiring
boats.Could you give me some of your expertise?
Thank You,
Ytter

All the reasons given here for the use of stranded wire are for the most
part correct and reason enough to use tinned stranded wire. I am sure that
the only reason you are disuaded from using real marine wire is cost, but
I just bought 1000' of 14/2 for 24 cents a foot he

http://www.blackav.com/bai.php?page=11

their website was out of commission last I checked, but their phone number
is 724-379-8628

To answer all the sceptics, YES, this is tinned, stranded, duplex UL1426
CG approved marine wire.


David
S/V Nausicaa

On 27 May 2004 07:54:14 -0700, (Michael
Sutton) wrote:


do they use 110v 12 gauge solid core "romex" like they do
for home installations for do they acutally use stranded wire
in conduit? I just can't see all the boat manufactureres going
to this expense.

Well, perhaps my experience will be instructive.

I have a 1973 racer cruiser made by Ontario Yachts, a reputable firm
known for solid boats (Ontario 28, 32, Niagara 35, etc.)

The electric wires in the boat are original except where I've changed
them. I intend to change all of them eventually, as I intend to
relocate the batteries, charger, etc. under a settee next to the mast
for better weight distribution.

The panel is little metal toggle switch with glass fuse holders with a
common positive side. Most of the DC power lines are very narrow, 20
or 22 gauge, to a terminal block in the head and aft and forward to
running lights. I replaced all mast wires with 12 gauge to spreader
lights, steaming and deck lights and 14 gauge to trilight and anchor
light. All DC wiring is tinned and stranded.

Wow, what a difference. Wait until I upgrade the cabin wiring and
replace the panel. The only exception to this is perhaps I will leave
the cabin lights with the old wiring, which is not in bad condition,
if I switch from 12 VDC auto light bulbs to LEDs...the LEDs draw so
little it is hardly worth the effort of drawing the cables through
cabinetry, etc.

I also replaced the stern light wire with 16 gauge to the panel.
Again, a gratifying jump in brightness.

All new hard-wired devices, like gas/propane alarm and solenoid, depth
sounder, etc. get 14 or 16 gauge Ancor wire to the panel depending on
draw. As I have a stock 35 amp alternator on my Atomic 4, I try to
avoid heavy draws where possible.

On the AC side, yes, there is obviously 10 gauge exterior Romex-type
wire going from the hook-up to a small 30 amp fuse box which uses the
"shotgun cartridge" style of brass-ended fuses. They haven't blown in
the five years I've owned the boat. The two pairs of AC outlets on the
boat are properly grounded, but the Romex is beginning to get
tired-looking. When I get a new panel next year I will replace it with
10 gauge marine wire because I want proper AC circuit breakers, a
hard-wired charger, a small inverter, full isolation and two extra
paired outlets, one in the V-berth so I can run power tools in the
anchor locker, and one in the nav station for a PC as we are getting
wireless networking at the YC and I like to download weather maps
before I cruise.

My other suggestion, depending on the length of your boat, is to
install a second AC hook-up. Mine is in the cockpit and the 50 foot
cord must cross about 31 feet of deck, 5 feet of Zodiac, 6 feet of
dock finger and 4 feet of rise to get to the plug. Far better, I
think, would be to have a second plug at the bow
end...somewhere...allowing a shorter cord to be used and giving one
the opinion of docking in other slips stern in or bow in without
hauling too much or too little shore power cord. Less stuff on deck
that way as well.

Hope this helps. I am learning as well and quite enjoying myself. I
won't miss those little glass fuses, I can tell you.

R.

Ytter,
As a rule you should use FINE tin plated stranded wire. It should be
sheathed with either fiberglass or metal braiding. It can be ordered from an
industrial wire supply house. It cost more than other type wire, but the
overall cost difference at the job level is minimal. Just as importantly,
you should consider the mode of most common failure of wiring. That is
corrosion at the wire terminal interface. To avoid the moisture migration
cause, you should use crimp terminals without insulation and a crimping tool
that provides enough pressure that the terminal to wire connection actually
welds. Then shrink tubing is applied and after the terminal is installed the
entire connection should be painted with a rubber compound. This also can be
ordered from the industrial supplier or directly from OMC.
Steve

"Ytter" wrote in message
...
I've heard different opinions what kind of wire is better for wiring
boats.Could you give me some of your expertise?
Thank You,
Ytter