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[email protected] November 17th 08 11:32 AM

Question for anyone who has worked with Star Board
 
On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 05:10:52 GMT, Jere Lull wrote:

On 2008-11-16 18:10:05 -0500, said:

On Sun, 16 Nov 2008 19:07:07 GMT, Jere Lull wrote:


I think SaltyDog covered the "working" aspects of it, but I wonder
about the longevity of the stuff. It's soft and I expect likely to
discolor fairly quickly if it's left in the sun, subject to the harsh
chemicals of cleaning, abuse of scrubbing....


Nope. I've used it for a number of things, including the mounting pad
for my outboard bracket, and after 5 years, that pad still looks
exactly like the day I installed it. It's not all that soft. It's very
similar to the HDPE used for commercial kitchen cutting boards, except
it has been UV stabilized.


I don't disagree with you at all on cutting boards or the outboard's
mount since each is relatively protected. I simply suggest from my
experience that the material is soft and subject to over-optimistic
claims of invulnerability.


Oh, the outboard pad is inches from all that nasty salt water that was
mentioned. It is also out in the sun 24/7/365. It still looks exactly
as it did the day I installed it those many years ago. It will last as
long as the rest of the boat. That was just one example, anyway. I
have plenty of other things made from it all over the boat. Most of it
is far older than the outboard pad. I mentioned cutting boards,
because of your claims that it is soft. It seems to be tough enough to
have sharp knives dragged across it constantly in restaurant kitchens
without having much damage. The only thing that might be regarded as
"soft" is that it is not as structurally rigid as plywood. I wouldn't
recommend it as flooring. In what way did you find it soft, and what
are the details of your starboard that discolored from exposure to the
sun and salt? I'm curious.




[email protected] November 17th 08 11:41 AM

Question for anyone who has worked with Star Board
 
On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 01:44:14 -0800 (PST), wrote:

How easily does Star Board work with a chisel, planes, and similar hand
tools? *I've worked with some other fake woods and they are pretty ornery in
this regard.



It will dull the edge quicker than wood, but other than that it's just
fine. Doesn't respond well to fine-grit sandpaper though, you've got
to cut a good edge or surface and leave it.


I've had pretty good luck on a couple of items where the round over
wasn't perfectly clean, by wet sanding, followed by a few passes with
a heat gun.


Vic Smith November 17th 08 12:32 PM

Question for anyone who has worked with Star Board
 
On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 06:32:13 -0500, wrote:



Oh, the outboard pad is inches from all that nasty salt water that was
mentioned. It is also out in the sun 24/7/365. It still looks exactly
as it did the day I installed it those many years ago. It will last as
long as the rest of the boat. That was just one example, anyway. I
have plenty of other things made from it all over the boat. Most of it
is far older than the outboard pad. I mentioned cutting boards,
because of your claims that it is soft. It seems to be tough enough to
have sharp knives dragged across it constantly in restaurant kitchens
without having much damage. The only thing that might be regarded as
"soft" is that it is not as structurally rigid as plywood. I wouldn't
recommend it as flooring. In what way did you find it soft, and what
are the details of your starboard that discolored from exposure to the
sun and salt? I'm curious.

I've seen Starboard recommended often on Carolina Skiff forums for
mounting sounder transponders and other stuff on the stern.
A Starboard plate is screwed in and sealed, and further attachments
that might change over time are affixed to the Starboard without
making more holes in the hull.
Salt water and submerged. Looks like it doesn't deteriorate.

--Vic

Good Solder Schweik November 17th 08 01:54 PM

Question for anyone who has worked with Star Board
 
On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 08:34:40 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 16 Nov 2008 21:41:49 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Nov 2008 18:10:05 -0500,
wrote:

Nope. I've used it for a number of things, including the mounting pad
for my outboard bracket, and after 5 years, that pad still llooks
exactly like the day I installed it. It's not all that soft. It's very
similar to the HDPE used for commercial kitchen cutting boards, except
it has been UV stabilized.


Can you get it at Home Depot or Lowes? If not, what's a good source?

As an FYI, it is very easy to run 110 volt tools onboard using an
inexpensive inverter.


What a piker! Corded power tools are a decided disadvantage on a boat.
Go climb the mast dragging an extension cord and 110 volt drill in the
rain and get back to us, Mr. Experience!



Try drilling a half inch hole in a piece of 1/4 inch stainless on the
mast head fitting with your puny little battery drill. you'll
understand why the A.C. equipment is needed.

Cheers,

Schwiek
(goodsoldierschweikatgmaildotcom)

Wayne.B November 17th 08 02:35 PM

Question for anyone who has worked with Star Board
 
On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 08:34:40 -0500, wrote:

Go climb the mast dragging an extension cord and 110 volt drill in the
rain and get back to us, Mr. Experience!


Experienced enough not to climb a mast in the rain.


Edgar November 17th 08 03:17 PM

Question for anyone who has worked with Star Board
 

"Good Solder Schweik" wrote in message
...
Try drilling a half inch hole in a piece of 1/4 inch stainless on the
mast head fitting with your puny little battery drill. you'll
understand why the A.C. equipment is needed.


I needed to drill a 1/4 hole in a thick stainless bracket on deck so I could
fix a shackle for the end of a jackstay.
I blunted three HSS drills without making much impression at all so went to
a really good tool shop they have here and explained the problem.
They sold me a cobalt steel drill especially intended for stainless and it
went through the stuff as if it was not there, producing long unbroken
strands of swarf that looked like springs.
It was a very expensive drill but the job was done in a few minutes and the
cost of several ordinary drills and lots of my time saved was worth it.
After the job was finished the cobalt steel drill still looked and felt so
sharp that it might have been new.



[email protected] November 17th 08 05:00 PM

Question for anyone who has worked with Star Board
 
wrote:
It's doubtful you have ever climbed a mast. You claim to have tried
sailing long ago, but it's pretty obvious why you now wallow around in
a floating RV. Sailing was beyond your capabilities.


Poor saltie/krusty/BB

Ooo just can't take anybody disagreeing wif 'oo,

Aw did the big scary sailor man make 'oo feel bad?

DSK

Jere Lull November 17th 08 07:59 PM

Question for anyone who has worked with Star Board
 
On 2008-11-17 12:05:02 -0500, Dave said:

So you've climbed your mast in the rain with your battery powered drill?


Hey, I've been up the mast with a GFI protected 120 after the battery
operated tool died. Extension cords are a bitch, but easier to drag up
than my massive body.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-à-Deux -- Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/


[email protected] November 18th 08 12:25 AM

Question for anyone who has worked with Star Board
 
On Nov 17, 12:20*pm, wrote:
Poor Wayne needs another semi-sailor to defend him!


Wayne's not poor, and he's done quite a lot of real sailing.
That must be why you are so bitter & envy him so much, Saltie/BB.

DSK






Wayne.B November 18th 08 12:29 AM

Question for anyone who has worked with Star Board
 
On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 16:17:46 +0100, "Edgar"
wrote:

I needed to drill a 1/4 hole in a thick stainless bracket on deck so I could
fix a shackle for the end of a jackstay.
I blunted three HSS drills without making much impression at all so went to
a really good tool shop they have here and explained the problem.
They sold me a cobalt steel drill especially intended for stainless and it
went through the stuff as if it was not there, producing long unbroken
strands of swarf that looked like springs.
It was a very expensive drill but the job was done in a few minutes and the
cost of several ordinary drills and lots of my time saved was worth it.
After the job was finished the cobalt steel drill still looked and felt so
sharp that it might have been new.


You can drill SS with ordinary bits but you need a *lot* of pressure
to keep it from work hardening, easy in a drill press, not so much up
the mast on a rainy day with a battery drill motor. :-)



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