On Sun, 16 Mar 2008 08:35:53 -0700, Jim wrote:

Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
then you can remove
the screws, inject thickened epoxy to make a "epoxy nail" and insert a
new plug to fill the screw hole.

I have been removing suspect screws, testing the hole with a syringe to
see if it has any water in it or will draw or accept air. Then inject
those with slightly thickened west epoxy.

I then re drill and install the same sized fastener that the rest of the
deck has. Then reinstall a new plug.

I put some caulking on the screws when I install them.

Is an epoxy "nail" good enough?

I watched a guy with a similar Swan to the original poster's buy "the
next length" screws to replace all his deck screws. I think this was a
mistake.

Your whole problem is to keep water out of the deck core! that should
be your main consideration. I can't say that enough times.

The problem with teak overlays is that they are usually only about
1/4" (6mm) thick. So if you drill and countersink for a screw there is
very little left to hold a plug. so the plugs come out.

The next think I have noticed is that, in most cases, where a screwed
overlay is installed there appeared to be no real effort to waterproof
the job so any deterioration causes water to leak under the teak and
eventually seep around the screws into the deck core. Chain plates,
stanchions and other deck mounted hardware are usually equally at
fault.

I doubt that "testing a hole with a syringe for water will tell you
anything. I just repaired a section of deck on a sail boat where the
Jib sheet tracks were bolted down without sealing and the plywood core
was a black semi solid - totally rotted. But there was no free water
and when you squeezed a handful it was damp but didn;t drip.

Unless your teak is glued down and if you really want to make a proper
repair then I would remove it, section by section. Fill all the screw
holes in the deck with thickened epoxy. Sand it smooth and then
replace the section using an adhesive to hold it to the deck. then
fill the hole in the teak strip with epoxy and a teak plug.

To hold the strips while the adhesive is drying you can use screws
down through the gap between two strips with a large washer under the
head and a plastic gasket under the washer to keep it from sticking.
If I were using epoxy for an adhesive I'd be sure to wax the screws
with mold release. Once the adhesive has hardened take out the screws
and if you have waxed them re-drill the hole, to clean it of mold
release, and then fill it with thickened epoxy.

By the way, if you are using epoxy then be sure to get a brand that
will stick to wet wood.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct email address for reply)