Hi,

I have just been given an older mohawk 16' canoe. It's in great shape apart
from some scratches and several large patches where the gel coat has come
off and the fiberglass has been exposed. Its chopped mat layup so i think
that means its polyester? Anyway - whats an economical way of repairing
the exposed mat sections? Should I just get some epoxy and paint it on and
sand it flat and repeat until its all flat and in line with the remaining
original gel coat? What about painting it? do i need special paint, surface
prep? and how expensive is it to piant? since its an older boat it's not
worth putting that much money into it..

Sal

"Sal" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have just been given an older mohawk 16' canoe. It's in great shape
apart
from some scratches and several large patches where the gel coat has come
off and the fiberglass has been exposed. Its chopped mat layup so i think
that means its polyester? Anyway - whats an economical way of repairing
the exposed mat sections? Should I just get some epoxy and paint it on and
sand it flat and repeat until its all flat and in line with the remaining
original gel coat? What about painting it? do i need special paint,
surface
prep? and how expensive is it to piant? since its an older boat it's not
worth putting that much money into it..

Sal

A canoe is not always in the water. Refurbishing it depends on how much you
will use it and store it.
The structural integrity of 20 to 40 years old Fiberglas canoe needs to be
checked carefully before you spend money on it. Its condition is subject to
how it was stored and supported when it was not in use. A properly stored
canoe is done indoor and supported by a minimum of 3 points 4 is better.
To fix your canoe you should not spent more than 20% to 25% of the cost of a
new one.
Ideally you should be using two parts epoxy. If you happen to have some
left over from a previous job use it.
Or you may be able to get away by using ployester resin and flair it with
Premium marine filler. The entire canoe should be sanded using open coat
paper starting with a grit of 120 and finishing it with 220 grit. As for
the painting a polyurethane paint equivalent to Interlux Brightside or a
more expensive two part epoxy paint with the proper primer.
I have used polyurethane concrete floor paint with good result.
The cost of the paint: for concrete floor paint its about $15.00 for a
litter and for Interlux its $35.00.
Two parts epoxy paint will run up to $65.00 per litter or more.
Good Norton sand paper costs about $0.50 per 8"X11" sheet.

You may get away with only using polyester resin

wrote:
"Sal" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have just been given an older mohawk 16' canoe. It's in great shape
apart
from some scratches and several large patches where the gel coat has come
off and the fiberglass has been exposed. Its chopped mat layup so i think
that means its polyester? Anyway - whats an economical way of repairing
the exposed mat sections? Should I just get some epoxy and paint it on and
sand it flat and repeat until its all flat and in line with the remaining
original gel coat? What about painting it? do i need special paint,
surface
prep? and how expensive is it to piant? since its an older boat it's not
worth putting that much money into it..

Sal




"prime" the repair spots with solvent thinned epoxy. That
"patch/fair" those spots with either an exterior putty or
thickened epoxy. Now prime the entire hull with more solvent
thinned epoxy. Especially over those patch spots if you used
putty. Then paint with a quart of enamel from the hardware store.

paul oman
progressive epoxy polymers

Paul Oman wrote in
:



"prime" the repair spots with solvent thinned epoxy. That
"patch/fair" those spots with either an exterior putty or
thickened epoxy. Now prime the entire hull with more solvent
thinned epoxy. Especially over those patch spots if you used
putty. Then paint with a quart of enamel from the hardware store.

paul oman
progressive epoxy polymers



Thank you to both of you who replied. Appreciated.

I have it sanded down now to 220 grit all over.

Another couple of questions thou' - haven't done this before...

What solvent should be used with Epoxy and in what quantity?

After priming the entire hull should I sand it again prior to painting?

When you say a quart of enamel what exactly is that? In the store there's
latex based, acrylic based or oil based?

If I don't mind the multi color patches could I leave the epoxy primer over
the entire hull as the 'paint'?

thanks again

Sal wrote:
Paul Oman wrote in
:


"prime" the repair spots with solvent thinned epoxy. That
"patch/fair" those spots with either an exterior putty or
thickened epoxy. Now prime the entire hull with more solvent
thinned epoxy. Especially over those patch spots if you used
putty. Then paint with a quart of enamel from the hardware store.

paul oman
progressive epoxy polymers



Thank you to both of you who replied. Appreciated.

I have it sanded down now to 220 grit all over.

Another couple of questions thou' - haven't done this before...

What solvent should be used with Epoxy and in what quantity?


THIN THE EPOXY 20-50% OR SO BY VOLUME WITH ACETONE OR XYLENE ETC.
YOU MIGHT EVEN PIGMENT THE THINNED EPOXY - EASIER TO SEE WHAT YOU
ARE DOING AND LESS TOPCOATS TO COVER.



After priming the entire hull should I sand it again prior to painting?


WOULDN'T HURT - YOU ARE BOUND TO HAVE A FEW DRIPS/SAGS.

When you say a quart of enamel what exactly is that? In the store there's
latex based, acrylic based or oil based?

YOU CAN USE JUST ABOUT ANY PAINT, BUT ACE OR RUSTOLEUM OIL BASED
ENAMEL AT ABOUT $8 PER QUART WILL GO ON NICELY AND LOOK FINE.


If I don't mind the multi color patches could I leave the epoxy primer over
the entire hull as the 'paint'?

YES THE ENAMEL IS MOSTLY FOR LOOKS. THE EPOXY ITSELF WILL YELLOW
AND LOSE IT SHINE, BUT IF YOU DON'T CARE...

PAUL

thanks again

Somebody wrote:

"prime" the repair spots with solvent thinned epoxy.

Why solvent?

Why thin the epoxy?

If you must thin epoxy, why not denatured alcohol (5% max)

"patch/fair" those spots with either an exterior putty or
thickened epoxy.

Laminating epoxy and micrro-balloons?

It makes great fairing putty.

Now prime the entire hull with more solvent
thinned epoxy.

Why?

That's why "high build primer" exists.

A gallon kit should cover the entire canoe at least two (2) coats..

Then paint with a quart of enamel from the hardware store.

A one part marine enamel compatible with the high build primer isn't
going to break the bank.

After investing all your time, what is the incentive to cut corners
and maybe save $10-$20?.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Somebody wrote:

"prime" the repair spots with solvent thinned epoxy.



Why solvent?

Why thin the epoxy?

UNTHINNED EPOXY IS LIKE PAINTING WITH HONEY. THINNING PROVIDES A
DEGREE OF PENETRATION, LONGER POT LIFE, AND EASY TO APPLY

If you must thin epoxy, why not denatured alcohol (5% max)

70-90% ISO ALCOHOL WORKS, BUT THE ACETONE, ETC. TYPE SOLVENTS MORE
COMMONLY USED

"patch/fair" those spots with either an exterior putty or
thickened epoxy.

Laminating epoxy and micrro-balloons?


WORKS TOO BUT EPOXY IS HARDER TO SAND...

It makes great fairing putty.

Now prime the entire hull with more solvent
thinned epoxy.

Why?

BECAUSE HULL IS SUN DAMAGED WEATHERED GLASS. A THIN COAT OF EPOXY
MAKES A FRESH BONDING SURFACE FOR ANY TOPCOAT OF PAINT. ALSO SEALS
THE PATCH SPOTS. ALSO IF SKIP THIS STEP THE PAINT OVER THE
PATCHES MAY HAVE A DIFFERENT LEVEL OF GLOSS

That's why "high build primer" exists.

AGAIN, NOT FOR BUILD BUT FOR BONDING. EPOXIES ARE GENERALLY THE
BEST OF PRIMERS....

A gallon kit should cover the entire canoe at least two (2) coats..

Then paint with a quart of enamel from the hardware store.


WE ALSO SELL HIGH END COMMERCIAL ENAMELS AND 2 PART LPU POLYS, BUT
ON A PROJECT LIKE THIS HARDWARE STORE ENAMEL IS FINE.


NOTE: I ONCE HAD A BUSINESS ASSOCIATED WHO WAS PLANT MANAGER AT
GIANT PAINT COMPANY. PAINT BATCHES WERE 10,000 GALLONS. PART OF IT
SOLD IN 5 GAL UNITS FOR CONTRACTORS. LAST FEW GALLONS PACKED AND
PRICE FOR THE MARINE MARKET. THAT SAID, OUR INDUSTRIAL ENAMEL IS
MUCH BETTER IN TESTING THAN THE HARDWARE STORE ENAMEL. HOWEVER,
FOR I USE THE HARDWARE STORE STUFF ANYWAY.

ANOTHER OPTION IS 'CHEAP' ENAMEL AND A 2 PART POLY CLEAR COAT OVER
IT. THE CLEAR IS EASIER THAN THE PIGMENTED STUFF (MISTAKES DON'T
SHOW) AND A LOT CHEAPER.


PAUL
PROGRESSIVE EPOXY

A one part marine enamel compatible with the high build primer isn't
going to break the bank.

After investing all your time, what is the incentive to cut corners
and maybe save $10-$20?.

Lew

"Paul Oman" wrote:

UNTHINNED EPOXY IS LIKE PAINTING WITH HONEY. THINNING PROVIDES A DEGREE OF
PENETRATION, LONGER POT LIFE, AND EASY TO APPLY

Maybe where you get you're epoxy it's the consistancy of congealed snot, but
my supplier put enough diluant in his laminating epoxy so that it easily
wets out the glass.

70-90% ISO ALCOHOL WORKS, BUT THE ACETONE, ETC. TYPE SOLVENTS MORE
COMMONLY USED

Since laminating epoxy doesn't contain any VOCs in the first place, why
introduce them when denatured alcohol works just fine and doesn't alter the
finished material?

WORKS TOO BUT EPOXY IS HARDER TO SAND...

Than what, fairing putty?

Why?

BECAUSE HULL IS SUN DAMAGED WEATHERED GLASS. A THIN COAT OF EPOXY MAKES A
FRESH BONDING SURFACE FOR ANY TOPCOAT OF PAINT. ALSO SEALS THE PATCH
SPOTS. ALSO IF SKIP THIS STEP THE PAINT OVER THE PATCHES MAY HAVE A
DIFFERENT LEVEL OF GLOSS

Again, that's why high build primer exists.


AGAIN, NOT FOR BUILD BUT FOR BONDING. EPOXIES ARE GENERALLY THE BEST OF
PRIMERS....

Huh?

Why do you think high build primer exists?


WE ALSO SELL HIGH END COMMERCIAL ENAMELS AND 2 PART LPU POLYS, BUT ON A
PROJECT LIKE THIS HARDWARE STORE ENAMEL IS FINE.

Guess I value my time more than you do.

What ever floats your boat.

Lew

PS: The coatings industry, both architectural and industrial, are also one
of my major customers of mine. That and $5 will get you a cup of coffee in a
cheap restaurant.