Lew Hodgett wrote:
Somebody wrote:

"prime" the repair spots with solvent thinned epoxy.



Why solvent?

Why thin the epoxy?

UNTHINNED EPOXY IS LIKE PAINTING WITH HONEY. THINNING PROVIDES A
DEGREE OF PENETRATION, LONGER POT LIFE, AND EASY TO APPLY

If you must thin epoxy, why not denatured alcohol (5% max)

70-90% ISO ALCOHOL WORKS, BUT THE ACETONE, ETC. TYPE SOLVENTS MORE
COMMONLY USED

"patch/fair" those spots with either an exterior putty or
thickened epoxy.

Laminating epoxy and micrro-balloons?


WORKS TOO BUT EPOXY IS HARDER TO SAND...

It makes great fairing putty.

Now prime the entire hull with more solvent
thinned epoxy.

Why?

BECAUSE HULL IS SUN DAMAGED WEATHERED GLASS. A THIN COAT OF EPOXY
MAKES A FRESH BONDING SURFACE FOR ANY TOPCOAT OF PAINT. ALSO SEALS
THE PATCH SPOTS. ALSO IF SKIP THIS STEP THE PAINT OVER THE
PATCHES MAY HAVE A DIFFERENT LEVEL OF GLOSS

That's why "high build primer" exists.

AGAIN, NOT FOR BUILD BUT FOR BONDING. EPOXIES ARE GENERALLY THE
BEST OF PRIMERS....

A gallon kit should cover the entire canoe at least two (2) coats..

Then paint with a quart of enamel from the hardware store.


WE ALSO SELL HIGH END COMMERCIAL ENAMELS AND 2 PART LPU POLYS, BUT
ON A PROJECT LIKE THIS HARDWARE STORE ENAMEL IS FINE.


NOTE: I ONCE HAD A BUSINESS ASSOCIATED WHO WAS PLANT MANAGER AT
GIANT PAINT COMPANY. PAINT BATCHES WERE 10,000 GALLONS. PART OF IT
SOLD IN 5 GAL UNITS FOR CONTRACTORS. LAST FEW GALLONS PACKED AND
PRICE FOR THE MARINE MARKET. THAT SAID, OUR INDUSTRIAL ENAMEL IS
MUCH BETTER IN TESTING THAN THE HARDWARE STORE ENAMEL. HOWEVER,
FOR I USE THE HARDWARE STORE STUFF ANYWAY.

ANOTHER OPTION IS 'CHEAP' ENAMEL AND A 2 PART POLY CLEAR COAT OVER
IT. THE CLEAR IS EASIER THAN THE PIGMENTED STUFF (MISTAKES DON'T
SHOW) AND A LOT CHEAPER.


PAUL
PROGRESSIVE EPOXY

A one part marine enamel compatible with the high build primer isn't
going to break the bank.

After investing all your time, what is the incentive to cut corners
and maybe save $10-$20?.

Lew