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Default Aluminum Designs

Anybody know of any all aluminum designs (no wood composite or sandwich)
available for sale for a shallow draft semi tunnel for river running? I can
modify if need be, but I ain't gonna put no wood in it if I build it. Well,
maybe for totally non structural stuff, but I doubt it.

I'm trying to talk Mrs Santa into getting me a 60% duty cycle MIG w/ spool
gun for Christmas.


--
Bob La Londe
Fishing Arizona & The Colorado River
Fishing Forums & Contests
http://www.YumaBassMan.com







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Default Aluminum Designs

On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 20:54:32 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

Anybody know of any all aluminum designs (no wood composite or sandwich)
available for sale for a shallow draft semi tunnel for river running? I can
modify if need be, but I ain't gonna put no wood in it if I build it. Well,
maybe for totally non structural stuff, but I doubt it.

I'm trying to talk Mrs Santa into getting me a 60% duty cycle MIG w/ spool
gun for Christmas.


--
Bob La Londe


Uh-oh: you said "aluminum boat" and "MIG welder" really, really,
casually.
Tell me you have MIG welded aluminum before - that you have the right
mask screen, that you can not only stitch thick aluminum castings
together, but you have seamed sheet as well.....

Brian W
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Default Aluminum Designs

On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 19:18:59 -0600, Brian Whatcott
wrote:

Uh-oh: you said "aluminum boat" and "MIG welder" really, really,
casually.
Tell me you have MIG welded aluminum before - that you have the right
mask screen, that you can not only stitch thick aluminum castings
together, but you have seamed sheet as well....


Place I do my boating has lots of fifty year old aluminum boats, none
of which have ever had paint or maintainance of any kind. All are
riveted. Grumman canoes are riveted and they get bounced off the rocks
regularly, if they are used in white water. I don't think welding is
really suitable for anything under forty feet. Metal is too thin. Note
that all those airliners are riveted.

Casady
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Default Aluminum Designs


"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 20:54:32 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

Anybody know of any all aluminum designs (no wood composite or sandwich)
available for sale for a shallow draft semi tunnel for river running? I
can
modify if need be, but I ain't gonna put no wood in it if I build it.
Well,
maybe for totally non structural stuff, but I doubt it.

I'm trying to talk Mrs Santa into getting me a 60% duty cycle MIG w/ spool
gun for Christmas.


--
Bob La Londe


Uh-oh: you said "aluminum boat" and "MIG welder" really, really,
casually.



There are some things about mig aluminum welding that a lot of people don't
realize...

1st - Its really hard to do a good job with a cheap welder like the 120V
20amp 10/20% duty cycle things with only two heat ranges like they sell at
Harbor Freight. I'm looking at a Hobart Ironman 250. I already got one of
those cheap ones. Figured I'ld use the push feed gun for steel and a spool
gun for aluminum so I wouldn't ever have to worry about gun/tip
contamination.

2nd - You have to burn some metal to get it dialed in just right. I got
scrap laying around from some other things I can burn up.

3rd - Use a clean stainless brush on all surfaces just before welding to
break up and remove the oxidation. Never use your brushes for aluminum on
ANYTHING else. Brushes are cheap insurance. USE THEM EVERYTIME even if you
brushed it yesterday.

4th - A spool gun is the way to go, but even with a push feed gun its
possible to push aluminum if you swap out the V groove feed wheel for a U
groove feed wheel. The V groove wheels shave the soft aluminum wire causing
it to plug up the feed tube and your gun.

5th - There is no 5th item.

6th - if for ANY REASON the wire doesn't feed STOP. Otherwise you will you
will have a wad of crammed up aluminum wire someplace in your rig.

7th - Practice and warm up for a few minutes on some scrap EVERYTIME before
you start on your cut pieces. (Thats a good idea on steel too.)


Tell me you have MIG welded aluminum before - that you have the right
mask screen, that you can not only stitch thick aluminum castings
together, but you have seamed sheet as well.....


Nope, I'm not super experienced, but I got a pile of scrap aircraft aluminum
to practice on. I've played some with aluminum, and I don't plan on using a
cheap rig. I've used some of the torch alloy stuff too, but its really only
suitable for small work.

I have a variable shade autodarkening mask, and I use it for everything. I
even use it for cutting. I just lighten the shade up.

And worse comes to worse... I can alway learn to install blind rivets.
LOL.


--
Bob La Londe
Fishing Arizona & The Colorado River
Fishing Forums & Contests
http://www.YumaBassMan.com



--
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Default Aluminum Designs

On Sun, 9 Dec 2007 19:16:34 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

....
Uh-oh: you said "aluminum boat" and "MIG welder" really, really,
casually.



... I'm looking at a Hobart Ironman 250. I already got one of
those cheap ones.....
3rd - Use a clean stainless brush on all surfaces just before welding to
break up and remove the oxidation. Never use your brushes for aluminum on
ANYTHING else. Brushes are cheap insurance. USE THEM EVERYTIME even if you
brushed it yesterday.

4th - A spool gun is the way to go, but even with a push feed gun its
possible to push aluminum if you swap out the V groove feed wheel for a U
groove feed wheel....


5th - There is no 5th item


Bob La Londe


This seems like a plan to me: the story I hear quite often is that
the hot puddle will drop out given half a chance on thin stock.

A particular optical filter is said to be a big help in visualizing
the puddle's state.

Good luck!

Brian W


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Default Aluminum Designs

On Mon, 10 Dec 2007 02:38:44 GMT, Brian Whatcott
wrote:

On Sun, 9 Dec 2007 19:16:34 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

...
Uh-oh: you said "aluminum boat" and "MIG welder" really, really,
casually.



... I'm looking at a Hobart Ironman 250. I already got one of
those cheap ones.....
3rd - Use a clean stainless brush on all surfaces just before welding to
break up and remove the oxidation. Never use your brushes for aluminum on
ANYTHING else. Brushes are cheap insurance. USE THEM EVERYTIME even if you
brushed it yesterday.

4th - A spool gun is the way to go, but even with a push feed gun its
possible to push aluminum if you swap out the V groove feed wheel for a U
groove feed wheel....


5th - There is no 5th item


Bob La Londe


This seems like a plan to me: the story I hear quite often is that
the hot puddle will drop out given half a chance on thin stock.

A particular optical filter is said to be a big help in visualizing
the puddle's state.


THere have been at least a million aluminum airplanes produced. All
were riveted. Wonder why?

Casady
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Default Aluminum Designs

Bob La Londe wrote:

"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 20:54:32 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:


Anybody know of any all aluminum designs (no wood composite or sandwich)
available for sale for a shallow draft semi tunnel for river running? I
can
modify if need be, but I ain't gonna put no wood in it if I build it.
Well,
maybe for totally non structural stuff, but I doubt it.

I'm trying to talk Mrs Santa into getting me a 60% duty cycle MIG w/ spool
gun for Christmas.


--
Bob La Londe


Uh-oh: you said "aluminum boat" and "MIG welder" really, really,
casually.




There are some things about mig aluminum welding that a lot of people don't
realize...

1st - Its really hard to do a good job with a cheap welder like the 120V
20amp 10/20% duty cycle things with only two heat ranges like they sell at
Harbor Freight. I'm looking at a Hobart Ironman 250. I already got one of
those cheap ones. Figured I'ld use the push feed gun for steel and a spool
gun for aluminum so I wouldn't ever have to worry about gun/tip
contamination.

2nd - You have to burn some metal to get it dialed in just right. I got
scrap laying around from some other things I can burn up.

3rd - Use a clean stainless brush on all surfaces just before welding to
break up and remove the oxidation. Never use your brushes for aluminum on
ANYTHING else. Brushes are cheap insurance. USE THEM EVERYTIME even if you
brushed it yesterday.

4th - A spool gun is the way to go, but even with a push feed gun its
possible to push aluminum if you swap out the V groove feed wheel for a U
groove feed wheel. The V groove wheels shave the soft aluminum wire causing
it to plug up the feed tube and your gun.

5th - There is no 5th item.

6th - if for ANY REASON the wire doesn't feed STOP. Otherwise you will you
will have a wad of crammed up aluminum wire someplace in your rig.

7th - Practice and warm up for a few minutes on some scrap EVERYTIME before
you start on your cut pieces. (Thats a good idea on steel too.)



Tell me you have MIG welded aluminum before - that you have the right
mask screen, that you can not only stitch thick aluminum castings
together, but you have seamed sheet as well.....



Nope, I'm not super experienced, but I got a pile of scrap aircraft aluminum
to practice on. I've played some with aluminum, and I don't plan on using a
cheap rig. I've used some of the torch alloy stuff too, but its really only
suitable for small work.

I have a variable shade autodarkening mask, and I use it for everything. I
even use it for cutting. I just lighten the shade up.

And worse comes to worse... I can alway learn to install blind rivets.
LOL.



Trust me, you can't really push aluminum well enough to weld a decent
seam. I have the Ironman210, and even with the teflon liner, it balls
and birdsnests easily unless the gun is straight out from the welder.
Even then, it'll only skip once, and then you gotta get out the cutters.

Spoolgun is the way to go.

I don't care what they told you.

--
“TANSTAAFL”
__________________________________________________ __________________________

America: Ironically, the safest place to be anti-American.
__________________________________________________ __________________________
"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them;
the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences." - Proverbs 22:3

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Default Aluminum Designs

Any plywood design can be modified for aluminum. You need a design that
will be OK with some weight, as 1/8 aluminum weighs about the same as 3/4
ply. even 1/8 can be a bear to work with, I wouldn't be optimistic for the
chances of success with any thing lighter, unless you have a LOT of
experience.

I'm not sure what you mean by "semi tunnel" but I built an Atkin Rescue
Minor with fully protected prop and rudder. Or you can modify the transom
of any skiff to give you a bit of a tunnel effect with an outboard - at the
loss of some "lift".

Can you provide a link to pictures of the kind of boat (in wood or glass)
you are thinking of?

Sal's Dad


"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
.. .
Anybody know of any all aluminum designs (no wood composite or sandwich)
available for sale for a shallow draft semi tunnel for river running? I
can modify if need be, but I ain't gonna put no wood in it if I build it.
Well, maybe for totally non structural stuff, but I doubt it.

I'm trying to talk Mrs Santa into getting me a 60% duty cycle MIG w/ spool
gun for Christmas.


--
Bob La Londe
Fishing Arizona & The Colorado River
Fishing Forums & Contests
http://www.YumaBassMan.com



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Default Aluminum Designs

On Wed, 5 Dec 2007 07:41:59 -0500, "Sal's Dad"
wrote:

as 1/8 aluminum weighs about the same as 3/4
ply.


If you divide 2.7, the density of aluminum, by 6, you get .45. I
thought plywood was heavier than that.

Casady


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