On Sep 16, 8:12 am, "John Cassara" wrote:
Below is a diagram from Glen-L. WWW.GLENL.COM They produce and sell boat
kits and supplies such as inboard hardware. This generic diagram shows
arrows representing some sort of mechanical fastener being use to hold the
the shaft log. I would not feel comfortable with the thought of all that
vibration and torque going through that device and there not be a screw or
bolt! Better take a good look at it from all sides!http://glen-l.com/inboard-hdw/direct-drive.html

"Mike" wrote in message

ups.com...

I have an old Mastercraft inboard ski boat that I need some help with
fixing. Where the shaft of the prop goes through the hull there is a
metal plate. The edges around the plate were leaking and it was
sealed with silicon. I cut out the gobs of silicon that were there
and found that the plate sits in a 1/2 inch trough in the fiberglass
hull. When the silicon was removed I can move the plate fairly easily
by hand, even lifting it up slightly. I replaced the existing silicon
with Goo marine sealant. I let the sealant set for 24 hours then
lowered the boat back in the water. My little leak turned into a
gusher.

How is this plate supposed to be secured to the boat? Do I just need
to do a better job with silicone? Is there some adjustment that needs
to be made to hold the plate on better? Should this have done over
with fiber glass?

I put photos of the plate and problem area he
www.lyonsland.com/BoatLeak

Thanks for any help.

--Mike

I like the 5200 suggestions. It is has very tenacious adhesive
qualities but I would also consider doing an epoxy/glass repair job
here. It will seal it and create a decent mechanical bond as well.

On Sun, 16 Sep 2007 13:46:43 -0700, roger
wrote:

On Sep 16, 8:12 am, "John Cassara" wrote:
Below is a diagram from Glen-L. WWW.GLENL.COM They produce and sell boat
kits and supplies such as inboard hardware. This generic diagram shows
arrows representing some sort of mechanical fastener being use to hold the
the shaft log. I would not feel comfortable with the thought of all that
vibration and torque going through that device and there not be a screw or
bolt! Better take a good look at it from all sides!http://glen-l.com/inboard-hdw/direct-drive.html

"Mike" wrote in message

ups.com...

I have an old Mastercraft inboard ski boat that I need some help with
fixing. Where the shaft of the prop goes through the hull there is a
metal plate. The edges around the plate were leaking and it was
sealed with silicon. I cut out the gobs of silicon that were there
and found that the plate sits in a 1/2 inch trough in the fiberglass
hull. When the silicon was removed I can move the plate fairly easily
by hand, even lifting it up slightly. I replaced the existing silicon
with Goo marine sealant. I let the sealant set for 24 hours then
lowered the boat back in the water. My little leak turned into a
gusher.

How is this plate supposed to be secured to the boat? Do I just need
to do a better job with silicone? Is there some adjustment that needs
to be made to hold the plate on better? Should this have done over
with fiber glass?

I put photos of the plate and problem area he
www.lyonsland.com/BoatLeak

Thanks for any help.

--Mike

I like the 5200 suggestions. It is has very tenacious adhesive
qualities but I would also consider doing an epoxy/glass repair job
here. It will seal it and create a decent mechanical bond as well.


5200 all the way I think that epoxy won't give a permanent bond
between metal and fiberglass because they expand and contract at
different rates with temperature changes. Over time this breaks an
inflexible bond.