Folks, a buddy is considering a late-sixties Triton with a really soft
fore deck and side decks. He's trying to get a rough idea of cost/
time to have some yard do it, and I'll appreciate any information or
experience you might be able to share. Its the plywood core that's
bad, and I know that the pro's like to get at the problem from above,
rather than fm below. (I guess they're comfortable with the re-
finishing task, while us amateurs are scared off by the prospect.)

Related to this, am I right in recalling that someone makes/sells some
stuff for this job by the square foot? Any info? Thanks, all.

AS

ashore wrote:
Folks, a buddy is considering a late-sixties Triton with a really soft
fore deck and side decks. He's trying to get a rough idea of cost/
time to have some yard do it, and I'll appreciate any information or
experience you might be able to share. Its the plywood core that's
bad, and I know that the pro's like to get at the problem from above,
rather than fm below. (I guess they're comfortable with the re-
finishing task, while us amateurs are scared off by the prospect.)

Related to this, am I right in recalling that someone makes/sells some
stuff for this job by the square foot? Any info? Thanks, all.

AS


http://www.triton381.com/

Gordon

ashore wrote:
Folks, a buddy is considering a late-sixties Triton with a really soft
fore deck and side decks. He's trying to get a rough idea of cost/
time to have some yard do it, and I'll appreciate any information or
experience you might be able to share.
snip

About $500 and 10-12 hours/ft of length will get you in the ball park.

May be a tad more than that.

Lew

It's not a terrible job, especially if you're content with painted rather
than molded nonskid.
Steps:
Remove hardware.
Cut out top skin.
Dig out perished core. In that era, pearson boats used plank balsa, an
unspeakably bad core.

Grind bevel into edges of upper skin. I mostly used a beltsander for
this.
Sand top of lower skin. and bond in new core- foam with firmer pucks for
hardware attachment points.
Lay up top skin , stepping the glass over the taper of the old top skin.
Fair and paint with LPU paint and griptex..
Replace hardware.
It's more work to try to salvage the top skin and its molded nonskid and to
fairly bond and tab it back in place. There was an article in Epoxyworks,
the West System mag, re the processes of repairing molded nonskid. Much too
much work, given that a creditable job can be done with paint.

It was many years ago that I did this, so i can't recall the costs or number
of hours involved. IIRC, the structural work was done in two days.
Fairing and painting took a few more (elapsed) days bot only a few hours'
labor.


"ashore" wrote in message
ups.com...
Folks, a buddy is considering a late-sixties Triton with a really soft
fore deck and side decks. He's trying to get a rough idea of cost/
time to have some yard do it, and I'll appreciate any information or
experience you might be able to share. Its the plywood core that's
bad, and I know that the pro's like to get at the problem from above,
rather than fm below. (I guess they're comfortable with the re-
finishing task, while us amateurs are scared off by the prospect.)

Related to this, am I right in recalling that someone makes/sells some
stuff for this job by the square foot? Any info? Thanks, all.

AS

ashore wrote:
Folks, a buddy is considering a late-sixties Triton with a really soft
fore deck and side decks.

Tim Lackey is the world authority on Tritons. Here is a link to his
forum. I know the topic has come up in detail. A search will yield tons
of info on re-coring a Triton.
http://www.triton381.com/forum/